In a seven-day roundtrip from Chalten during January 2012, Agustin and Juan Raselli and I made a south-north crossing of the Cordon Adela to finish on the summit of Cerro Torre. We bivouacked at Laguna Toro, then, via the Rio Tunel Inferior Glacie...

FALLING ROCK, POOR POSITION Colorado, Rocky Mountain National ParkOn May 18, 1989, Tricia Timms (20) was struck in the hip by a 14 kg rock on Eagle Cliff Mountain. Timms had been sitting at the base of a cliff band, directly in the fall line of ra...

Lupghar Sar East Attempt. We went from the Shimshal River to the Momhil Glacier, hoping to try the east ridge of Lupghar East (7200 meters), but there were dangerous hanging glaciers on the ridge. We decided to try the climb by the col between Lup...

First Ascents in Zion National Park, 1993. In October, 1993, Doug Byerly and I climbed the south face of Mount Majestic (P 6955) from Emerald Pools all the way to the highest summit (VI, 5.8, A3). This is the first buttress right of Behunin Canyon...

FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTIONCalifornia, Thunder Rolt PeakOn July 8, 1991, Kent Jameson (32) fell from a ledge on Thunder Bolt Peak. He had rappelled to the ledge and was waiting for his friend, Terry Robinson, to rappel down to him. Jameson...

FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING ALONE AND UNROPED, NO HELMET Alberta, Front Ranges, Canyon Creek CragsL.O., an experienced and capable rock climber who had pioneered many difficult routes, went climbing alone on May 25, 1993, at Canyon Creek in the Elbow W...

Tirsuli West (7035 m), first ascent. A team from the Nehru Institute of Mountaineering, led by its vice principal, Maj. Kulwant S. Dhami, attempted this virgin peak in June. Located ca 45 km from Jumma, the road head on the Joshimath-Malari road, ...

Gangstang. A seven-man expedition of the Japanese Alpine Club, led by Tsuneo Suzuki, climbed Gangstang (6162 meters, 20,215 feet) by its southwest ridge. On August 8, T. Ishikawa, H. Honjo, M. Natsume and two high-altitude porters climbed to the t...

KEVIN O’CONNELL1944-1984Kevin O’Connell was killed on Huascarán in the Cordillera Blanca in Peru in July. An intense and prolific climbing career was brought to an end. Widely known in Canada as a mountaineer, lecturer, writer and administrator, K...

Thalay Sagar (6,903m), north face, new route attempt. Ben Gilmore and I attempted a new line on the north face of Thalay Sagar. The line follows the major weakness to the west (right) of the central buttress that was climbed in 1998 by a Russian t...

Spokane Mountaineers. Club membership peaked at 400 during the year. We voted a new ski tow for our Mount Spokane property and now sponsor a ski team under mentor Mark Pinch. We have an effective expedition fund, and our Himalayan library is exten...

Mukut Parbat. An Indian expedition from the Border Security Force led by S.C. Negi made the second ascent of Mukut Parbat (7242 meters, 23,759 feet) at the end of September. Further details are awaited.Kamal K. Guha, Editor, Himavanta, India

Mount Epperly. As we go to press, we have received a report that Mount Epperly has been climbed by Swiss Erhard Loretan.

Memphis Mountaineers. In 1988, the Memphis Mountaineers enjoyed a productive year. The total membership of 66 included 42 regular members residing in the Memphis, Tennessee, area, eight honorary members, and 16 associate members scattered througho...

STRANDED, OFF ROUTE, LATE STARTNew Hampshire, Cannon CliffOn July 24, John (26) and Lisa Tedesco reached a spot close under the Old Man's chin on Cannon Cliff. They could not find the normal exit corner, the Wiessner finish, which is the final pit...

Trango Attempts. A 5-man Japanese expedition led by Tomoyuki Watanabe attempted a new route on the Great Trango Tower to the right of the Norwegian buttress, climbing six pitches, and one of the already climbed routes on the Nameless Tower, but th...

STRANDED, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENTAlberta, Kananaskis Provincial Park, Mount Sir DouglasOn August 29, two climbers ascended Mount Sir Douglas via the East Ridge, alpine grade III, 5.6. Before beginning the route, they had decided they would descend th...

Pic Korona, Various Ascents. It was reported that I. and V. Plotnikov and V. Sergeev from Barnaul in Central Siberia climbed a new route (5A) in the winter on the west spur of Korona and another route (5B) up a series of icefalls on the northwest ...

Nevado de los Patos, Second Ascent. Swiss climber Louis Glauser and I spent several weeks doing mountaineering combined with high-altitude archaeological research. We began in Christmas 1984 in the Chilean side of the Puna. We first explored the n...

Patricia Bowl, Rock Creek Area. Paticia Bowl is a high bowl directly above (northwest) of Rock Creek Lodge. Access is via the trail from just above Rock Creek Lake. On the right (north) side of the bowl is a series of towers on the ridge. E-Ticket...