The First American Accident on the MatterhornJ. Monroe ThoringtonThe tragedy which overtook members of Edward Whymper’s party on the first ascent of the Matterhorn in 1865 was the most dramatic event in 19th century mountaineering. By that time th...
Kamet and Abi Gamin. An expedition of the Indian Border Security Force was led by Deputy Commander Chhering Ram. Bogged down by bad weather, landslides, road blocks and deep snow, they got to Base Camp only on May 17. Their last camp, Camp V at 71...
AVALANCHE-DID NOT READ PUBLISHED AVALANCHE WARNING, WEATHER, POOR POSITION, FAILURE TO FOLLOW INSTINCTS (ONE CLIMBER), CARRIED BEACONS-BUT NOT TURNED ONOregon, North SisterWe departed the Pole Creek Trailhead, 5,200 feet, at 1:00 a.m. on May 22 wi...
Jirishanca Norte to summit slopes. It is early July, and my climbing partner Iñigo Mujica and I have just gotten off the south face of Chacraraju, after completing the Bouchard Route in 25 hours. On arrival at our base camp at Laguna Jahucocha we ...
British Crags and Climbers, edited by Edward C. Pyatt and Wilfrid Noyce. 235 pages, 16 illustrations. London: Dennis Dobson, 1952. Price, 21/—.A stated purpose of this anthology is “to illustrate the foundation, the development and the present sta...
Southeastern Alaska: Mt. Juneau.In September 1950 John Crawford, of Sunnyside, Washington, 22, a summer employee on a government fisheries vessel in Alaska, attempted to climb directly up the west face of Mt. Juneau from the nearby city. Apparentl...
The South Face of Mount McKinleyRiccardo CassinTranslated by Marco T. EinaudiEven the birth of our expedition was difficult and — sorrowful: the idea of our climb on Mount McKinley had been urged by the well known climber from Lecco, Carlo Mauri, ...
FALL ON ICE, NO PROTECTION, NOT WEARING CRAMPONSColorado, North Cheyenne Canyon, Hully GullyOn January 30, moments before falling 170 feet to his death, experienced climber Reid Judson Hunt (32) asked two climbers at a popular ice wall in southwes...
ARTHUR BECKET LAMB 1880-1952Arthur Lamb, a member of our Club for 29 years, died suddenly on 15 May 1952 while on his way home from Harvard Chemical Laboratory. He was born in Attleboro, Massachusetts, of New England parentage and studied at Tufts...
Historical Note: Regarding the 1980 Italian Route (De Dona-Giongo) on Egger, Huber writes, “I [cannot say] if they climbed it or not. I just will say, what I saw and found (and didn’t find)…but for sure I will have an opinionHuber notes the conspi...
Ascents from the Lake of the Hanging Glaciers, Purcell Range. In August, Douglas and Betty Anger, Arthur and Claudia Maki and Bob and Peggy West visited the central Purcell Range, climbing. from a base camp at the Lake of the Hanging Glaciers. Thr...
VARIOUS FALLS – UNABLE TO SELF-ARREST WHILE GLISSADING, FAULTY USE OF CRAMPONS (3), OUT OF CONTROL FALLCalifornia, Mount ShastaOn January 18, a climber in Avalanche Gulch attempted to glissade on hard snow with crampons on, beginning at 11,500 fee...
1963. Everest West Ridge TraverseEd WebsterFor Tom Hornbein and Willi Unsoeld, such a tentsite—if you could call it that—couldn’t have been a more thrilling perch for the night. From 27,200 feet up this prominent couloir on Everest’s north face, a...
Tagoujimt n’ Tsouiant, La Bas. Climbing has been a wonderful vehicle for seeing and enjoying some of the planet’s less-known nooks and corners. There are experiences that leave one gratified and richer from the journey. The Atlas Mountain village ...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, HASTE Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount YamnuskaOn the morning of April 25, 1992, Craig E. and Rob G. registered out for a climb of the eight-pitch route “Red Shirt,” about 270 meters high and rated 5.7, on Mount...
Cerro Torre and Torre Egger Attempts, 1992. Italians Ermanno Salvaterra, Adriano Cavallaro and Guido Bonvicini attempted in October, 1992 to climb the 1959 Egger-Maestri route on Cerro Torre. They climbed about 600 meters in two days, but the obje...
Buttress/Ridge, Variation. After alpine- style ascents of Cholatse and Lobuje East, Fredrick Wilkinson and I, both 20, descended to Thado Khosi from the Gokyo region of the Khumbu Himalaya in early November. We hoped to do either a new route on th...
Mountain Unity. Mountain Unity International (www.mountainunity.org) is a non-profit organization providing marketing, media, and communications support for any tour operator organizing expeditions to Afghanistan, though particularly the Wakhan Co...
Mount Marcus Baker, Chugach Range. Mount Marcus Baker (13,176 feet), the highest peak of the Chugach Range, was first climbed in 1938 by Bradford Washburn and party. (A.A.J., 1939, 3:3, pp. 255-264.) Later unsuccessful attempts to climb the mounta...
Grand Teton National Park (3)—On August 31, 1954, Timothy Kelly (22), with three companions, was descending from Mt. Owen via a snow- filled couloir. Kelly tested the snow and then glissaded in a standing position. He picked up considerable speed ...