Climber’s Guide to Yosemite Valley, by Steve Roper. San Francisco: Sierra Club, 1971. 305 pages, 16 photographs, $6.95 This is a textbook example of how a guidebook should be done. It is without a doubt the finest guidebook in America. Roper has c...
Russian Style on ChangabangA convergence of cultures in the Garhwal Himalayaby Carlos BuhlerIn the spring of 1981, I received a letter from Dane Bums. It contained a variety of xeroxed photos from different magazines and journals showing the south...
Pakistan, 2003 overview. Approximately 54 expeditions took up permits for peaks over 6,500m. Mountains below this altitude are now exempt from royalty fees, though not from trekking and Sirdar fees for those situated in restricted areas. Despite t...
Arctic Bibliography: Prepared for and in cooperation with the Department of Defense under the direction of the Arctic Institute of North America. Four Volumes (to date). (Obtainable from the Superintendent of Documents, Washington 25, D. C.), 1953...
Everest, Southwest Face Attempt. The huge, steep southwest face of Everest has been successfully scaled by only three expeditions. This autumn, a team led by Ukrainian Mikhail Turkevich, who had already climbed the face in 1982, was composed of te...
Inspired by the 2010 Anglo-American expedition (AAJ 2011), Richard Tremellen and I set off in July for the remarkably unexplored Djangart region. The highest summit, Pik 5,318m, presented the most obvious goal. Alas, it remains unclimbed. However,...
Shall We Take a Drill?The riddle of style in the Cordillera BlancaLeo Houlding, United KingdomShall we take a drill?” I asked tentatively.With only a few days left before Patch and Neil were due to leave, this was the last time we would see each o...
Pik Pobeda, first solo traverse. From August 16-23 Gleb Solokov made the first solo traverse of Pik Pobeda (7,439m) from the Chon-Toren Pass in the east to the Dikiy Pass in the west. [This traverse was first completed in 1970 by Riabukhin’s exped...
The Mountaineers. Climbing in 1956 took members of The Mountaineers to peaks from the Sierra Nevada to Mount McKinley. Its climbing committees in Seattle, Tacoma, and Everett programmed ascents of some 75 peaks in our Cascade and Olympic mountains...
TABLE III1951-901959-9019911991USACAN.USACAN.TerrainRock282034310511Snow1782270537Ice13660152River12300Unknown21610Ascent or DescentAscent251335412111Descent1605243479Unknown240110Immediate CauseFall or slip on rock1837175598Slip on snow or ice638...
FALL ON ROCK, OFF-ROUTENorth Carolina, Blue Ridge Parkway, ShiprockThe three of us had been climbing since late morning on September 4. It was now early evening and two of us decided to try an unnamed route described to us by a climber we met on o...
Rock Climbs of the Sierra East Side. Alan Bartlett and Errett Allen. Chockstone Press, Denver, 1988. 170 pages. Photos, topos, maps. $14.95Until recently, information on rock climbing in the Eastern Sierra has been very sketchy. Unless you happene...
Baden Sar (5,455tn), first ascent; Constanzia Sar (5,902m), first ascent; Har Sar (6,082m), attempt. As coleader of the Baden-Saxon Pamir-Karakoram Expedition 2007, which was supported by the DAV, I had the opportunity to spend time in the region ...
FALL ON ICE, UNABLE TO SELF-ARRESTOregon, North Sister, Thayer GlacierOn August 14,1993, Erinn Broszman (22) slid 400 feet down the side of a steep Central Oregon glacier. She died of her injuries before Deschutes County Search and Rescue voluntee...
Peaks on Duchaylard and Anvers Islands. Our team sailed on January 10, 1994 on the 55-foot sailing vessel Pelagic, owned and captained by experienced American Skip Novak, and made a 2900-kilometer round-trip from Ushuaia in Tierra del Fuego to the...
Himalayan veteran Osamu Tanabe led an eight-member Shinshu University Alpine Club expedition to Himlung Himal (7,126m) and Nemjung. On October 14 Shin Egawa, Nobusuka Oki, Tokihiro Takizawa, and Jaya Prakesh Rai reached the summit of Himlung via t...
FALL WHILE BOULDERING, EXCEEDED ABILITIES—Colorado, Mt. Evans. Thomas Gibbon (18) was bouldering on the steep north face of Mt. Evans when he lost his footing and fell to his death. (Source: Henry Ledyard, Alpine Rescue Team)Analysis: Gibbon was, ...
STRANDED, DARKNESS—LATE START, OFF ROUTE, INADEQUATE CLOTHING, CREATING A HAZARDOUS CONDITIONCalifornia, Yosemite Valley, Fairview DomeOn August 9, about 1100, Bill Ott (47) and Hugo Orellana (24) began climbing the Regular Route (III-IV 5.9) on F...
Mt. Grosvenor, first ascent. Our original plan had been to attempt Chomolhari, but we ran into problems when we discovered that a joint exercise was taking place between Chinese and Bhutanese military forces down in Yadong County. Not even Chinese...
The McNeill-Nott Memorial RouteA new line on the south face of Mt. Foraker.Will MayoWas the sky falling? The serac had avalanched with a vicious cacophony. The moment was surreal: the mind trying to recognize the cause of the roar, the delay betwe...