Aguja Poincenot, East Face, Patagonicos Desperados. Italians Giuseppe Comino and Cesare Ravachietto attempted to make the second ascent of the 1989 Anker-Piola route, Patagonicos Desperados (6c A3, 550m), which takes a magnificent line straight up...
FALLING ICE, CLIMBING UNROPED, INEXPERIENCEQuebec, ShawbridgeAt 1500 on March 2, 1985, a climber (40) with limited experience was climbing solo on a small knot of ice to the left of Shawbridge Face. She was trying out some new ice tools borrowed f...
Mrigthuni, South Face Attempt. Our group was composed of Joaquin Susino, Teodoro Galán, Angel Sánchez, Jordi Plana and me. In September we approached from Bavari over the Dakuri Pass and up the Sundard- hunga valley to place Base Camp at 12,800 fe...
Wisconsin Hoofer Mountaineers. Climbing interest was again high during the year, both among old members and a large number of new people. As spring brought warmer weather, the core of experienced climbers once again found themselves well outnumber...
Meru North Attempt. Fifteen members of the Mountaineers’ Youth Ring of Calcutta led by Kamal K. Guha attempted to climb Meru North. They had worked their way to the head of the Meru Glacier and to the Meru-Shivling col by September 19. They worked...
The Winged Horse, South Face. Rising above Lower Boy Scout Lake and just east of the Impala, the rugged summit crown of the Winged Horse rises above an appealing 600-foot south face. Late in the fall of 1969, Dan McHale, Joe Brown, and I completed...
Bataille Pour Le Jannu, by Jean Franco and Lionel Terry Paris, NRF Gallimard. 293 pages; 61 photographs, 5 maps and drawings. Price: French frs 19.50 French climbing in the Himalayas has a very special flavor about it both in fact and in mountain ...
Cerro Torre. On January 23, 1985 Manfred Lorenz and Hans Bärnthaler reached the summit of Cerro Torre by its southeast ridge, the Maestri route. Details are lacking.
Mt. Mausolus (9,170'), first ascent. From March 15 to 17 Clint Helander and Scotty Vincik made the first ascent of Mt. Mausolus. They climbed the west face via a dagger-like couloir, naming their route the Mausoleum in honor of Seth Holden, who di...
Attempt on Hardeol. The Himalayan Association, Calcutta organized an expedition to Hardeol (23,460 feet) in September and October. The team comprised seven climbers, a doctor and two scientists. It was led by Chanchal Mitra. They established Base ...
Makalu Winter Attempt. The two-man team of Noboru Yamada and Yasuhira Saito took one look at the south face of Makalu and decided it was impossible for only two to scale such a steep route in winter when there is little snow cover. They turned to ...
Cordillera de Palca. In November I visited this group, which is probably the last remaining unclimbed range of ice peaks in South America. Though I tentatively call it the Cordillera de Palca, John Ricker, who informed me of its existence, has cal...
Thath-aa-ai-atah A Rock Climber’s & Scrambler’s Guide to the Lumpy Ridge Area, by Chip Salaun and Scott Kimball. Published by the authors, 1980. 192 pages, 52 photographs, area maps. Price $10.00.When requested by The American Alpine Journal t...
Khatang Attempt. Because of adminstrative difficulties, we were eight days late in arriving at Base Camp above Lumdung Khaka. Our original intention had been to climb the hitherto unclimbed southeast ridge of Khatang, but when we saw the difficult...
Cochamo, Cerro Trinidad. I climbed in Cochamo in 1999 and 2000, staying two months each time. The first year four Brazilians and I put up a new line on Cerro Trinidad (800m, 5.11 A4), calling it Mucho Granito Arriba. The follow year we visited the...
Annapurna II. The Shinshu University Alpine Club’s expedition was led by Mitsuaki Nishigori, seconded by Kako Katsuka. They placed Camp V at 24,275 feet on the previously untried northeast ridge of Annapurna II (26,041 feet). On May 4 Masatoshi Sa...
Quimsa Cruz. I spent almost six weeks in several forays into the Cordillera de Quimsa Cruz, but the results were poor because of the wintry weather that hit the north-central Andes during June and July. In one campaign, I hiked from the mines of L...
Z8. Our expedition consisted of five climbers, Irish Jo Hastings, Donal O’Murchu and me, Scot Gordon Simpson, Indian liaison officer Ravi Chandra, and cameraman Karl Winkelman and Dr. Barry Daly. It is symptomatic of the changing Himalaya that we ...
Upernivik Island, West Greenland. Our expedition climbed on Uper- nivik Island at 71° N., north and south of the Sermeq Qiterdleq Glacier. We were Daniel Bidaurreta, leader, Iñaki Tapia, Dr. Miguel Valencia, Javier Aldaya, Abel Alvira, José Ignaci...
Cerro Arenal and Other Ascents, 1991. In the Olivares group, west of the city of San Juan, on August 8, 1991 Humberto Campodónico made solo the first winter ascent and the third ascent of the peak of Cerro Negro Aspero (5500 meters, 18,045 feet). ...