Cerro Torre. On January 23, 1985 Manfred Lorenz and Hans Bärnthaler reached the summit of Cerro Torre by its southeast ridge, the Maestri route. Details are lacking.
Mt. Mausolus (9,170'), first ascent. From March 15 to 17 Clint Helander and Scotty Vincik made the first ascent of Mt. Mausolus. They climbed the west face via a dagger-like couloir, naming their route the Mausoleum in honor of Seth Holden, who di...
Attempt on Hardeol. The Himalayan Association, Calcutta organized an expedition to Hardeol (23,460 feet) in September and October. The team comprised seven climbers, a doctor and two scientists. It was led by Chanchal Mitra. They established Base ...
Makalu Winter Attempt. The two-man team of Noboru Yamada and Yasuhira Saito took one look at the south face of Makalu and decided it was impossible for only two to scale such a steep route in winter when there is little snow cover. They turned to ...
Cordillera de Palca. In November I visited this group, which is probably the last remaining unclimbed range of ice peaks in South America. Though I tentatively call it the Cordillera de Palca, John Ricker, who informed me of its existence, has cal...
Thath-aa-ai-atah A Rock Climber’s & Scrambler’s Guide to the Lumpy Ridge Area, by Chip Salaun and Scott Kimball. Published by the authors, 1980. 192 pages, 52 photographs, area maps. Price $10.00.When requested by The American Alpine Journal t...
Khatang Attempt. Because of adminstrative difficulties, we were eight days late in arriving at Base Camp above Lumdung Khaka. Our original intention had been to climb the hitherto unclimbed southeast ridge of Khatang, but when we saw the difficult...
Cochamo, Cerro Trinidad. I climbed in Cochamo in 1999 and 2000, staying two months each time. The first year four Brazilians and I put up a new line on Cerro Trinidad (800m, 5.11 A4), calling it Mucho Granito Arriba. The follow year we visited the...
Annapurna II. The Shinshu University Alpine Club’s expedition was led by Mitsuaki Nishigori, seconded by Kako Katsuka. They placed Camp V at 24,275 feet on the previously untried northeast ridge of Annapurna II (26,041 feet). On May 4 Masatoshi Sa...
Quimsa Cruz. I spent almost six weeks in several forays into the Cordillera de Quimsa Cruz, but the results were poor because of the wintry weather that hit the north-central Andes during June and July. In one campaign, I hiked from the mines of L...
Z8. Our expedition consisted of five climbers, Irish Jo Hastings, Donal O’Murchu and me, Scot Gordon Simpson, Indian liaison officer Ravi Chandra, and cameraman Karl Winkelman and Dr. Barry Daly. It is symptomatic of the changing Himalaya that we ...
Upernivik Island, West Greenland. Our expedition climbed on Uper- nivik Island at 71° N., north and south of the Sermeq Qiterdleq Glacier. We were Daniel Bidaurreta, leader, Iñaki Tapia, Dr. Miguel Valencia, Javier Aldaya, Abel Alvira, José Ignaci...
Cerro Arenal and Other Ascents, 1991. In the Olivares group, west of the city of San Juan, on August 8, 1991 Humberto Campodónico made solo the first winter ascent and the third ascent of the peak of Cerro Negro Aspero (5500 meters, 18,045 feet). ...
In a seven-day roundtrip from Chalten during January 2012, Agustin and Juan Raselli and I made a south-north crossing of the Cordon Adela to finish on the summit of Cerro Torre. We bivouacked at Laguna Toro, then, via the Rio Tunel Inferior Glacie...
FALLING ROCK, POOR POSITION Colorado, Rocky Mountain National ParkOn May 18, 1989, Tricia Timms (20) was struck in the hip by a 14 kg rock on Eagle Cliff Mountain. Timms had been sitting at the base of a cliff band, directly in the fall line of ra...
Lupghar Sar East Attempt. We went from the Shimshal River to the Momhil Glacier, hoping to try the east ridge of Lupghar East (7200 meters), but there were dangerous hanging glaciers on the ridge. We decided to try the climb by the col between Lup...
First Ascents in Zion National Park, 1993. In October, 1993, Doug Byerly and I climbed the south face of Mount Majestic (P 6955) from Emerald Pools all the way to the highest summit (VI, 5.8, A3). This is the first buttress right of Behunin Canyon...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTIONCalifornia, Thunder Rolt PeakOn July 8, 1991, Kent Jameson (32) fell from a ledge on Thunder Bolt Peak. He had rappelled to the ledge and was waiting for his friend, Terry Robinson, to rappel down to him. Jameson...
FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING ALONE AND UNROPED, NO HELMET Alberta, Front Ranges, Canyon Creek CragsL.O., an experienced and capable rock climber who had pioneered many difficult routes, went climbing alone on May 25, 1993, at Canyon Creek in the Elbow W...
Tirsuli West (7035 m), first ascent. A team from the Nehru Institute of Mountaineering, led by its vice principal, Maj. Kulwant S. Dhami, attempted this virgin peak in June. Located ca 45 km from Jumma, the road head on the Joshimath-Malari road, ...