“Cima Asso,” First Ascent. For the third year in a row, the Club Alpino Italiano—Asso supported an expedition to Pakistan. The leader was Angelo Rusconi. The aim of the expedition was to reach an unknown valley in the mountain chain of the Hindu ...
United States: Climbs in the Pacific NorthwestStein’s Pillar, Oregon. Stein’s Pillar is a spectacular rhyolite monolith located in central Oregon. One reaches it by turning off U.S. Highway 28 near the upper end of the Ochoco Reservoir, at a point...
Southern Patagonian Icecap. The ninth Argentine-Slovene Expedition was made up of A. Nikolic, E. Curioni, M. Serrano, Pedro Skvarca and me. Our activity was in two phases. In the first we explored and climbed peaks to the west of the Glacier Upsal...
Forked Peak and Kabru Dome Correction. Page 184 of AAJ, 1988 carried an account about Major K. V. Cherian’s expedition’s ascent of Rathong, which also claimed the ascents of Forked Peak and Kabru Dome. An enquiry for details of the latter two asce...
Dronning Louise Land, various ascents. Gerwyn Lloyd, Tim Radford, and I, members of a North Wales-based mountain rescue team, visited the most northerly significant mountain range in Arctic East Greenland, an area known as Dronning Louise Land. On...
AVALANCHEUtah, Catherine PassOn November 13, 1985, two men (29 and 24) died as a result of an avalanche near Lake Catherine, between Brighton and Alta ski resorts. About 1445, the avalanche broke loose as the two victims, who were cross-country sk...
This season had fewer climbers and more trekkers than last season, with 3,712 attempting the summit, compared to 4,048 last year. Foreign climbers rose to 89%. The first two weeks of January 2010 were the busiest for climbing. There were fewer e...
Langtang Lirung Attempt. An unsuccessful attempt on the south ridge of Langtang Lirung was made by eight Polish climbers led by Waclaw Dudek. On October 29, they reached 6800 meters.Elizabeth Hawley
“When there’s only one in the crew, everybody gets to be captain.” – “Big Wall Pro: Flavio d’ Bongo,” from The Complete Book of Big Wall Climbing, by Chongo.I turned my head as the first crack sounded, and watched, dumbfounded with awe and reveren...
Tests on Roped Climbing TechniquesWILLIAM E. SIRIThe instant a rope is uncoiled, mountaineering becomes, in part, an engineering project. Yet so far as the engineering element is concerned, it is often more an art than a science—a choice of techni...
ANALYSIS OF SIXTY-SIX MOUNTAINEERING ACCIDENTS, UNITED STATES AND CANADAFIVE-YEAR PERIOD, 1947-1951LOCALITYCascades, 13 accidents; Colorado Rockies, 12; Tetons, 11; Appalachian Mountains, 6; Yosemite Valley, 5; Sierra Nevada, 4; Canada (Rockies, P...
Gangapurna. A second Japanese expedition to Gangapurna was from the Nagano Mountaineering Association and led by Kiyoshi Shimizu. They came from the south via the Kodi Khola and Sanctuary and climbed the west ridge. On October 15, Shimizu, Takeshi...
Cerro San Gabriel (3,125m), northeast ridge; La Pala (3,647m), east face; Cerro Bello (5,239m), west face. In September Christian Quezada, Jaime Wastavino, and I, from the Grupo de Alta Montana of the Perros Alpinos, traveled to Cerro San Gabriel,...
FALL ON ROCK, NO HELMET Quebec, Gatineau Park, Western CwmOn October 8, 1989, Steve Adcock (32) was leading an attempt on a new route. He had just completed the crux of the route, estimated at 5.10, and moved onto an easier section, about 5.4, whe...
Cerro Olivares Sur, First Ascent. A 5850-meter ( 19,193-foot) mountain was discovered during one of my many forays into the high country west of the city of San Juan. It belongs to the long ridge of the Cerros Olivares. Dr. Franco Cremonese, gover...
The Mazamas. The Climbing Committee, chaired by Susan Pyle Erickson, scheduled 288 climbs, which included 41 Basic School climbs, 23 winter climbs, 19 Explorer Post climbs, and six Ski Mountaineering climbs. The usual surly Northwest weather cause...
WELDON FAIRBANKS HEALD 1901–1967Weldon Heald was an ardent lover of mountains; not as a field for prowess, but for the beauty and inspiration he found in them. He was a capable climber and was able to reach summits where he could breathe the air o...
Lao Ding Shan and Mt. Desio, First Ascents, and Exploration of the Chinese Karakoram. It was an article by Kurt Diemberger in the 1995 volume of this journal that first inspired me to organize an expedition to the Chinese Karakoram. When I called ...
Fitz Roy, El Flaco con Domingo. On January 26,2008, I met Crystal Davis-Robbins; we were both without partners, and the weather continued to blow everyone’s mind. I felt like I needed more rest, but there was no time for that.We ran into Freddie W...
Exploration and Mountaineering in Northeast GreenlandN. E. OdellIT was merely the partial fulfilment of a longstanding desire to visit Greenland and especially its relatively inaccessible eastern side, that gave an unusual quality of joy to our de...