FALL INTO CREVASSEWashington, Mt. BakerWhile searching for two overdue hikers, Joe Kassuba (40) and A1 Errington had an interesting incident which gives further evidence of the potential hazards of rescue. Note in Errington’s report, which follows...
Gongkala Shan, foiled attempt to gain the mountain; Haizi Shan, attempt. In September and October Toto Gronlund, Peter Rowat, Dave Wynne Jones, and I attempted the peaks of Kawarani I and II (5,992m and 5,928m) in the small Gongkala Range of Weste...
SAMUEL EVANS STOKES ALLEN1874 -1945The death of S. E. S. Allen, pioneer in the Lake Louise district, on March 27, 1945, gives release to one whose brilliant mind early became clouded, who had lived in confinement for more than forty years, his onl...
FALL ON ROCK, RUNNING ALONEColorado, Continental DivideOn August 4, 1980, John Link (43) and seasonal Park Rangers Chris Reveley and Robert Guthrie ran from the Wild Basin Ranger Station to Thunder Lake, 11 miles. (All three individuals were train...
FALLING ROCKCalifornia, Yosemite Valley, Glacier Point ApronAfter climbing in the Valley for a couple of weeks, Peter Terbush (22), Joseph Kewin (21), and Kerry Pyle (20) were nearing the end of their vacation. On June 13, in late afternoon, they ...
Genyen Massif, Peak 5,695m, first ascent, Inglis-Puryear. In mid-October, Julie Hodson, Peter Inglis, Jay Janousek, Michelle Puryear, and I made our way toward Mt. Genyen (6,204m). Following the extensive research of Tamotsu Nakamura, our objectiv...
The First Ascent of Mount SalcantayJohn C. Oberlin and W. V. Graham MatthewsTHE shadow of our plane flickered across the brown hills beneath us as the pilot brought us down toward a valley spotted with green fields and darker clumps of eucalyptus ...
Mt. Chamberlain, I Fink Therefore I Am. Having long been fascinated with reports and photos of Mt. Chamberlain, deep behind the Sierra Crest, I finally made the trip in July. Ever ready for adventure, the energizer bunny himself, Jonny Copp of Bou...
FALL ON ROCK, FAILURE TO FOLLOW ROUTE, PROTECTION PULLED OUTAlberta, Ghost River area, BonanzaOn September 6, a party of three were climbing Bonanza, a 5.8 gear route located in the Ghost River area. About midway up the route the leader, J.I. (34)...
EnsueñoThe northwest buttress of Fitz Royby Andrea SarchiTwelve years have elapsed since my first journey to Patagonia. The first time I arrived in that place, it rained, the mountains were wrapped in the dense mists of the south and everything se...
Some Climbs in the SelkirksGeorgia EngelhardAFTER two weeks of climbing in the Canadian Rockies, where the brittle limestone rock is always a menace, where one often toils arduously up long scree slopes until one reaches the actual climbing, and w...
The Bar-Headed GooseThomas H. JukesMILLIONS OF YEARS before George Leigh Mallory attempted to ascend Everest “because it was there,” a remarkable bird had found its way over Everest’s summit, thanks to winning a prize in evolution’s lottery. The b...
New York Section. The year 2007 was a particularly active and interesting one for the New York Section. We reached a record 750 members by year’s end, aided by a special outreach to younger members by the national AAC and by continuing to provide ...
Mt. Belanger, King's Couloir. Dave Marra and I were tossing back a few pints of Canada’s finest at the Downstream Pub in Jasper and soon were jabbering about picking off a new midsummer ice route. When Dana Ruddy, fresh from a jaunt up Mt. Fryatt,...
Nilkanta, Garhwal Himalaya, 1949WILLI UNSOELDEarly on the morning of July 4, 1948, two rucksack-laden hitchhikers stood hopefully beside U.S. 66 on the outskirts of Los Angeles. Their thumbs pointed east, their axes proclaimed their membership in ...
Razorblade Pinnacle, Mount Hood. On September 29, Cindy Long and I climbed the beautiful west arête of this hidden classic in the Sandy River Basin on Mount Hood. After a 2½-hour approach, we began up a grungy but easy first pitch that was followe...
The Yukon ExpeditionRobert H. BatesHave you broken trail on snowshoes? Mushed your huskies up the river?—Service.YUKON TERRITORY, Canada’s most westerly province, is bounded by the watershed of the Mackenzie River on the east, the bulk of continen...
Everest Attempt. In the post-monsoon 31 climbers attempted Everest from the Western Cwm. All but four climbers were on the permits of Austrian Hanns Schell and all used his route through the icefall and cwm. Murray Rice and I were a two-man expedi...
Annapurna, Northwest Face, and Dhaulagiri. Reinhold Messner, Prem Darshano, Hans Kammerlander, Reinhard Patschneider and Reinhard Schiestl established Base Camp below the northwest face of Annapurna at 4100 meters. Messner and Kammerlander reached...
McKinley climbed by Boy Scouts. Boy Scouts from Post 286 of the Western Alaska Scout Council in Anchorage undertook over a period of two years to prepare themselves for an ascent of McKinley, learning what skills would be needed. On June 5, scouts...