New Climbs in the Northern Pickets. A party of five, consisting of Frank de Saussure, Tony Hovey, Don Keller, and Joan and Joe Firey climbed in this seldom visited range in late July and early August. Crooked Thumb was ascended via a rotten gully ...
Huantsán from the South. We tried to climb Huantsaán by the south and southwest ridges. We considered the Italian route to Huantsán Oeste too dangerous and so chose the very long way across Huantsán Sur and Oeste. Base Camp was situated in the Que...
Burkett Needle, Voyage of the Celestial Tramps. From May 6-31, Sébastien Foissac and I put up a new route capsule-style on the southeast face of the Burkett Needle. Drop-off and pick-up by boat was made from Thomas Bay. We spent 41 days in the Coa...
P 1881 and P 1713, South Greenland. I led another expedition this year back to the region where we had been in 1978. (See A.A.J., 1979 pp. 222-3.) We were Gilles Tierle, Gérard Dussutour, Denis Capron, Henri Aubert, Maurice Nonde, Marie-Thérèse De...
El Capitan, Muir Wall. “Oh my God, he’s actually going to step off this ledge!” This was mythought as I watched my partner, Tommy Caldwell, step off a ledge and free-climb at the top of El Capitan. We had been on El Cap a year earlier, doing the N...
Mount Huntington, West Face, P 11,300 Traverse, and McKinley, Reality Ridge. Rob Rohn and I flew to the west fork of the Ruth Glacier on May 16 with the intention of alpine climbing and skiing in the area from a central base. On May 17 and 18 we a...
Manda II. On May 31 Samrjit Ghosh and Sherpa Gyalzen climbed Manda II (21,547 feet). No further details are known.Kamal K. Guha, Himalayan Club
Shivling, Attempt. Satyendra Rana led a five-member Himalayan Alpine Adventure Club from Delhi to Shivling (6543m). Continuous rockfall on the summit ridge compelled the expedition to be called off on July 5.Harish Kapadia, Honorary Editor, The Hi...
St. Elias Attempt. Günter Zimmermann, Urban Gebhart, Walter Kischlat, Winfried Hartmann and I were flown by Mike Ivers of Gulf Air Taxi on May 29 from Yakutat to the east fork of the Tyndall Glacier. That same day we made Camp I on a little saddle...
On 19 June Jim Baldwin (26) was climbing with John Evans on the East Face of Washington Column. Jim was leading a climb two pitches above a large ledge 200 feet off the talus when it got dark. Baldwin led the last pitch in the dark of moderately h...
FALL ON SNOW, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENTCalifornia, Mount WhitneyIn late May 1983, Ray Ranger (29) and two other team members from Mammoth SAR had completed a month-long backpacking trip from Reds Meadow to the vicinity of Mount Whitney at Iceberg Lake....
Colorado Mountain Club. The CMC, with an approximate growth rate of 10% during the past year, now totals over 5500 members. The Wilderness Kids Group, a Denver group offspring, consisting of families with small children, had a 100% increase, showi...
Fifth Patagonian Expedition of the Club Andino Bariloche. Manolo Puentes Blanco, Arnoldo Gramaje, Tito Juárez, Oscar Palacios and Enrique Busch undertook to discover the Vodadahue Cascade, mentioned by the Franciscan monk Menéndez at the end of th...
Aguja Poincenot, East Face, Patagonicos Desperados. Italians Giuseppe Comino and Cesare Ravachietto attempted to make the second ascent of the 1989 Anker-Piola route, Patagonicos Desperados (6c A3, 550m), which takes a magnificent line straight up...
FALLING ICE, CLIMBING UNROPED, INEXPERIENCEQuebec, ShawbridgeAt 1500 on March 2, 1985, a climber (40) with limited experience was climbing solo on a small knot of ice to the left of Shawbridge Face. She was trying out some new ice tools borrowed f...
Mrigthuni, South Face Attempt. Our group was composed of Joaquin Susino, Teodoro Galán, Angel Sánchez, Jordi Plana and me. In September we approached from Bavari over the Dakuri Pass and up the Sundard- hunga valley to place Base Camp at 12,800 fe...
Wisconsin Hoofer Mountaineers. Climbing interest was again high during the year, both among old members and a large number of new people. As spring brought warmer weather, the core of experienced climbers once again found themselves well outnumber...
Meru North Attempt. Fifteen members of the Mountaineers’ Youth Ring of Calcutta led by Kamal K. Guha attempted to climb Meru North. They had worked their way to the head of the Meru Glacier and to the Meru-Shivling col by September 19. They worked...
The Winged Horse, South Face. Rising above Lower Boy Scout Lake and just east of the Impala, the rugged summit crown of the Winged Horse rises above an appealing 600-foot south face. Late in the fall of 1969, Dan McHale, Joe Brown, and I completed...
Bataille Pour Le Jannu, by Jean Franco and Lionel Terry Paris, NRF Gallimard. 293 pages; 61 photographs, 5 maps and drawings. Price: French frs 19.50 French climbing in the Himalayas has a very special flavor about it both in fact and in mountain ...