Middle Tooth, West Face, Three Teeth. In October Jack Roberts and I climbed this direct route on the west face following a single crack system at the left edge of the prominent orange pillar. Entry was made from the gully on the left, with a trave...
K2’s Magic Line Janusz Majer, Klub Wysokogórski, Katowice, Poland We dedicate our route to the memory of Americans Alan Pennington and John Smolich, Italian Renato Casarotto and Pole Wojciech Wróz, who died while struggling on this “Mag...
Kyajo Ri, first recorded ascent of newly opened peak. Sitting at home in front of the computer for a week with a broken leg can be a wonderful source of inspiration. So it was for me in January 2002. The Nepalese government had just opened 103 new...
Adi (a.k.a. Chota or Little) Kailash (5,925m), first ascent; Nikarchu Qilla (The Fortress of Nikarchu, 5,750m), first ascent. An international team of climbers has made the first ascent of Adi (aka Chota or Little) Kailash (5,925m). The mountain i...
Simian Outing Society. The activities of the club were curtailed severely this year by the ban on climbing placed at Portland Arch. The 60-foot sandstone bluff and surrounding area were recently made into a nature preserve after being turned over ...
Pt. 4,600m, Stressful Rain, attempt. Gianni Cilia and I planned to visit the Miyar Valley to try the big west-facing wall of Three Peaks Mountain (the unclimbed 6,000+m peak at the head of the Dali Glacier), which I tried in 2003. However, floodin...
Guide to the Appalachian Trail in New England. Third edition xii + 432 pages, with six folding maps and five sketch maps. Washington, D. C.: The Appalachian Trail Conference, 1952. Price, $3.00.One of the best examples of free and willing cooperat...
Mount Dall and Peak 7102, Alaska Range. After three days of rainy weather obscuring the mountains, we stuffed our gear into Bob Smith’s station wagon and drove to Talkeetna to find the weather clear over the Alaska Range. On July 24, Cliff Hudson ...
YUKO MAKI1894-1989The American Alpine Club lost a distinguished honorary member on May 2, 1989 when Yuko Maki died from a heart ailment in Tokyo. He had been an Honorary Member since 1959.Yuko Maki was bom on February 5, 1894 at Sendai, Miyagi Pre...
CARMIE R. DAFOE, JR.1920–1975The mountaineering community in general and the Mazamas and the America Alpine Club in particular have lost a dedicated friend. Carmie R. Dafoe, Jr. was killed in an automobile accident in Moccasin, Montana on June 29,...
The 1934 Attempts on Mt. WaddingtonHenry S. Hall, Jr.THREE parties came, saw, but did not conquer Mt. Waddington last summer. Our 1933 approach from Tatla Lake, down the west fork of the Homathko, up Scimitar Creek and Glacier, and ascent of Mt. C...
Challenges in Alaska and the Yukon, 1968Bradford WashburnDURING the last few years Boston’s Museum of Science has been one of the major sources of information for those contemplating pioneer climbs or mountain exploration in Alaska and northwester...
The Shoes of Kilimanjaro and Other Oddventure Travel Stories. Cameron M. Burns. Basalt, Colorado: Hard Pressed Books, 2002. 184 pages. Paperback. $16.95.The Hard Way: Stories of Danger, Survival and the Soul of Adventure. Mark Jenkins. New York: S...
Mount Alberta’s North FaceGeorge H. Lowe IIIWHILE glancing through photos at the AAC Clubhouse in New York, I came upon Fred Ayres’ pictures of Mount Alberta, taken prior to his and Oberlin’s second ascent. (A.A.J., 1949, 7:2, pp. 124-133.) The ap...
Huascarán, Southeast Ridge and Peaks in Quebrada Ulta. In June Theo Dowbenka, Austrian, Heinrich Händel, Sebastian Hohenreiter, Peter Schiml and I as leader, Germans, climbed in the Cordillera Blanca. Our Base Camp lay at 13,125 feet in the Jatun ...
Ganesh, Annapurna Group. The Alpine Club of Kyoto sent an expedition to the southernmost peak of Annapurna I, Ganesh (23,800 feet) (not to be confused with the Ganesh Himal). On October 13 Masaaki Kimura, Hiromichi Yoshino and Yutaka Ageta climbed...
KENNETH ROSE McALPIN1882–1964Dr. McAlpin was born on February 22, 1882, and died at his home, Kenrose Farm, West Berne, New York, on February 9, 1964. A native of New York, he was the last survivor of the five sons of Gen. Edwin A. McAlpin, once a...
Colorado Climbs, 1982. Eldorado Canyon. New route activity continues in Eldorado Canyon, although not at the feverish pace of the 1981 season. The canyon still refuses to be “climbed out”, the same core group of locals, along with a variety of par...
Peaks Above the Southern Patagonian Icecap. In February we went to Lago Dickson, north of the Paine group. We camped in the highest tongue of bush by an ice puddle on the Glaciar Dickson. In fine weather we did a day trip onto the icecap via a sad...
FALL ON ROCK, FATIGUE–UNABLE TO CLIP CARABINERCalifornia, Pinnacles National MonumentThe accident happened on September 25 at the Pinnacles Monument around noon. My climbing partner, Jamey Stowell, and I were on our fourth climb of the day, and cl...