Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta. In January 1957, at the same time that the English expedition under A. E. Cunningham was in the western end of this range (See AAJ 1957, pp. 161-163), our group, made up of Piero Ghiglione and Silvio Morra, Italians, ...
Tarke Kang (Glacier Dome) Attempt. Four English climbers led by Keith Foster attempted to climb Tarke Kang (7193 meters, 23,600 feet) by its south ridge. They got to a high point of 5800 meters on October 24.Elizabeth Hawley
FALLING ROCK, FALL ON ROCK, NO HARD HAT Wyoming, TetonsOn July 3, 1988, at 1000 Carl Detwyler (36) and Steve Glenn were climbing the route Armed Robbery on Cloudveil Dome. Detwyler was leading the third pitch when the one by two meter rock he was ...
High Sierra Country, by Oscar Lewis. 291 pages, map end-papers. Duell, Sloan and Pearce, New York; Little, Brown and Company, Boston, Toronto, 1954. Price $3.50.A glance at the title would lead one to believe that this book is about the alpine reg...
Jannu. The members of the Seijo University Jannu Expedition were Mikio Kawase, leader, Yukihiro Ichikawa, Eigi Yamada, Takeshi Naganuma, Jun Miyazaki, Sumio Azuma, Soji Obara, Koichiro Ohara and me. We followed the French route on the southwest (Y...
Pathibara (Pyramid) and Pathibara East (Sphynx). Our joint Indo-Japanese expedition climbed these two peaks for the first time from the Sikkimese side on the northeast. They lie some 12 kilometers north of Kangchenjunga. Swiss led by E. Wyss-Dunan...
Stanford Alpine Club. The Stanford Alpine Club continues to sponsor a program of weekly practice climbs to local outcroppings supplemented by week-end expeditions to Yosemite valley and other areas for more serious climbing. The program is designe...
The Balls, Tempest Dome, Plate Route. Bob Kamps and I climbed this three- or four-pitch route in August. Begin on the south face of the dome at an overhanging wall protected by one bolt. Colorful, solid rock covered with knobs and plates provides ...
Mount Fairweather, West Ridge. Jack Bennett, Dan Bennett and Tom Bennett summitted Mount Fairweather (15,300 feet) on June 14. We believe this to be the only expedition to Mount Fairweather in 1995. Our approach was from the Upper Grand Plateau Gl...
PROTECTION PULLED OUT, FALL ON ROCKCalifornia, Yosemite Valley, El CapitanOn October 12, 1992, at 0730, Doug Chabot (28) was leading the 26th pitch of the Nose Route, El Capitan. He was aiding up a crack 40 feet out from the belay ledge (CampFive)...
Gasherbrum II, South Spur. The French Lyon Expedition was composed of Jean-Pierre Frésafond, leader, and his wife Hélène, Louis Audoubert, Frédéric Bourbousson, Marc Batard, André Chariglione, Jea Dupraz, Jean-Jacques Forrat, Bernard Macho, Dr. Al...
FALLING ROCK, NO HARD HAT—British Columbia, Bugaboo Range, Eastpost Spire. Julia Peck (15) was standing at the bottom of a chimney on Eastpost Spire on August 8, while Mary Witt (14) was climbing it, belayed by Bean Haworth (22). Witt stepped on s...
Uruashraju. On June 17 the Italian Carlo Mauri and I made the first ascent of Uruashraju ( 18,815 feet). Besides us two, the expedition included a second Italian, Carlo Aldé, the Peruvian climbers Macario and Emilio Angeles and the porters Octavia...
Glacier Studies in Alaska, 1941During August and September a party made up of Dr. Donald B. Lawrence, Maynard L. Miller, Anthony T. Ladd, and Wm. O. Field, Jr., spent six weeks studying the coastal glaciers of southeastern Alaska. The work was car...
Nanga Parbat. Our international expedition was a commercial but not a guided one. We ascended a variation of the Kinshofer route, climbing the snow couloir to the right of the normal arête. We were Frenchman Yves Durieux, German Rüdiger Schleypen,...
The Priest. Long a landmark near Moab, the 450-foot desert monolith, the Priest had apparently never been attempted by climbers. Waiting for Harvey Carter and me, Layton Kor spent a day in September, 1961 leading the first ascent of difficult Cast...
Pico Abanico, South Face, Sierra Nevada de Mérida. On February 25, E. Gómez, S. Pérez and I made the first ascent direct of the south face of Pico Abanico (“The Fan,” 4900 meters, 16,076 feet). The Busk expedition had followed an oblique route, th...
Island Peak, Solu Khumbu. The Danish climber Jesper Trier with three Sherpas climbed Island Peak (20,305 feet) on May 15. Several other ascents have been made.
Dedo del César. On February 18, 1978 the striking needle, Dedo del César (6200 feet) was climbed by an expedition of the Club Andino Bariloche. The summit team was Mario González, Guido Iglesias and Juan Pablo Nicola. The latter first saw the peak...
On October 23 and 24, 2008, Chinese mountaineers Chen Hui, Gu Qizhi, and Peng Xiaolong made the second known ascent of Daogou West, via a new route up the northeast couloir and north ridge, with a bivouac halfway up the couloir. The team app...