STRANDED, OFF ROUTE, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT–LEFT ROPES BEHINDCalifornia, Yosemite Valley National Park, Washington ColumnOn July 15, two climbers (22 and 20) were attempting to climb the Prow on Washington Column. They decided to retreat from the wa...
Memorials to Conrad Kain. On June 21st, 1936, a memorial tablet to this guide was unveiled at the foot of the Ochsenwand, Raxalpe, near Nasswald, Kain’s birthplace, under the auspices of Sektion Reichenau of the German-Austrian Alpine Club and the...
New Ascents in the Cascade Range. Early in the summer of 1955 two new climbs were undertaken in the Washington Pass area of the Methew Cascades. One, a new route of difficult standard, the southeast buttress of The Temple, on Kangaroo Ridge, was a...
A new route was done by Greg Thomsen and me on April 21, 1973. Awkward chimney pitches from the east gully lead to the uphill (north) notch. Starting slightly west is a textbook series of parallel cracks that lead to the summit in two pitches. The...
West Face of Kat Pinnacle. On April 2 Tom Frost and I forced a new route on Kat Pinnacle. This starts on the 110° north face and then follows hairline cracks on the west face to the summit. The entire climb was artificial and included a very diffi...
Broad Peak, Attempt and Tragedy. Eric Escoffier and Pascalle Bessieres (F) were last seen on the summit ridge of Broad Peak (8047m) on July 29 by Poitr Putzelnik and Ryszard Pawlowski, members of a Polish expedition. The two were climbing up to a ...
STRANDED, LATE START – BENIGHTED, INADEQUATE CLOTHING AND EQUIPMENT, WEATHERAlberta, Canadian Rockies, Mount NorquayOn October 24, two scramblers started up a difficult scramble on Mount Norquay in Banff National Park at 1300. They reached the rid...
Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta. In January 1957, at the same time that the English expedition under A. E. Cunningham was in the western end of this range (See AAJ 1957, pp. 161-163), our group, made up of Piero Ghiglione and Silvio Morra, Italians, ...
Tarke Kang (Glacier Dome) Attempt. Four English climbers led by Keith Foster attempted to climb Tarke Kang (7193 meters, 23,600 feet) by its south ridge. They got to a high point of 5800 meters on October 24.Elizabeth Hawley
FALLING ROCK, FALL ON ROCK, NO HARD HAT Wyoming, TetonsOn July 3, 1988, at 1000 Carl Detwyler (36) and Steve Glenn were climbing the route Armed Robbery on Cloudveil Dome. Detwyler was leading the third pitch when the one by two meter rock he was ...
High Sierra Country, by Oscar Lewis. 291 pages, map end-papers. Duell, Sloan and Pearce, New York; Little, Brown and Company, Boston, Toronto, 1954. Price $3.50.A glance at the title would lead one to believe that this book is about the alpine reg...
Jannu. The members of the Seijo University Jannu Expedition were Mikio Kawase, leader, Yukihiro Ichikawa, Eigi Yamada, Takeshi Naganuma, Jun Miyazaki, Sumio Azuma, Soji Obara, Koichiro Ohara and me. We followed the French route on the southwest (Y...
Pathibara (Pyramid) and Pathibara East (Sphynx). Our joint Indo-Japanese expedition climbed these two peaks for the first time from the Sikkimese side on the northeast. They lie some 12 kilometers north of Kangchenjunga. Swiss led by E. Wyss-Dunan...
Stanford Alpine Club. The Stanford Alpine Club continues to sponsor a program of weekly practice climbs to local outcroppings supplemented by week-end expeditions to Yosemite valley and other areas for more serious climbing. The program is designe...
The Balls, Tempest Dome, Plate Route. Bob Kamps and I climbed this three- or four-pitch route in August. Begin on the south face of the dome at an overhanging wall protected by one bolt. Colorful, solid rock covered with knobs and plates provides ...
Mount Fairweather, West Ridge. Jack Bennett, Dan Bennett and Tom Bennett summitted Mount Fairweather (15,300 feet) on June 14. We believe this to be the only expedition to Mount Fairweather in 1995. Our approach was from the Upper Grand Plateau Gl...
PROTECTION PULLED OUT, FALL ON ROCKCalifornia, Yosemite Valley, El CapitanOn October 12, 1992, at 0730, Doug Chabot (28) was leading the 26th pitch of the Nose Route, El Capitan. He was aiding up a crack 40 feet out from the belay ledge (CampFive)...
Gasherbrum II, South Spur. The French Lyon Expedition was composed of Jean-Pierre Frésafond, leader, and his wife Hélène, Louis Audoubert, Frédéric Bourbousson, Marc Batard, André Chariglione, Jea Dupraz, Jean-Jacques Forrat, Bernard Macho, Dr. Al...
FALLING ROCK, NO HARD HAT—British Columbia, Bugaboo Range, Eastpost Spire. Julia Peck (15) was standing at the bottom of a chimney on Eastpost Spire on August 8, while Mary Witt (14) was climbing it, belayed by Bean Haworth (22). Witt stepped on s...
Uruashraju. On June 17 the Italian Carlo Mauri and I made the first ascent of Uruashraju ( 18,815 feet). Besides us two, the expedition included a second Italian, Carlo Aldé, the Peruvian climbers Macario and Emilio Angeles and the porters Octavia...