A.A.C., Rocky Mountain Section. A section meeting was held in March featuring Masaru Kono, who presented an illustrated account of the Japanese ascent of Mount Everest. In October the section sponsored an outstanding outdoor seminar at Castle Rock...

Trango Towers. Our expedition was composed of Abdel Amar, Mauro Mabboni, Pierre Montiglio, Olivier Soulié and me. On May 19 and 20, Montiglio, Soulié and I made the first of two routes on the south face of the Trango Château or the First Tower, th...

Numbur. Isao Fukushima led a team of eight Japanese who climbed the southwest ridge of Numbur. On October 18, Takashi Masuda, Hiroto Saitoh, Pasang Sherpa and Gyalzen Sherpa reached the summit (6957 meters, 22,824 feet). They were followed the nex...

Peaks above Balbala Glacier. An Indian expedition led by Dr. Amiya Kumar Hati climbed in northern Garhwal. Base Camp was above Mana at Chandhumka at 15,200 feet and Advanced Base on the Balbala Glacier at 16,400 feet. Camp II was set up at 18,000 ...

Pissis. After an approach from Copiapó, Chile, I crossed the border via the Valle Ancho Norte Pass (4672 meters, 15,328 feet; 27°24'32"S, 68°45'47"W). From there it is 50 kilometers to Base Camp at the bottom of the northern glacier of Pissis. I c...

Mount Fairweather, First Ski Descent. Dave Braun and I carved rime ice from the 15,300-foot summit of Mount Fairweather on April 29. Shannon Walsh reached 13,800 feet on the 11-day expedition. Fairweather rises just 15 miles from the open ocean, a...

Shisha Pangma Post-Monsoon Attempts. Frenchman Marc Batard made a solo attempt on Shisha Pangma and reached 7500 meters on the normal route. This was actually more an acclimatization climb for his Everest ascent, which followed immediately. An Ita...

Washington, Mt. Garfield, Washington Cascades 45 miles from Seattle— On May 18, a four man roped party was descending a wide snow ledge which angled down below a rock cliff on the N.W. route on Mt. Garfield. All were moderately to extremely experi...

Everest Attempt. Our 17-member team consisted of Germans, Austrians, Swiss Norbert Joos and South Tirolean Hans Kammerlander. The latter two hoped for an ascent without artificial oxygen. There were four women in our number. We had five Sherpa and...

AVALANCHEAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Lake LouiseDoug McKay was making a second ski descending traverse of the slope of Big Beehive above Lake Agnes at 1245 hours on 26 March 1977 when the snow fractured at the line of the first traverse. He was carr...

HACE, INADEQUATE COMMUNICATION—CLIENT TO GUIDEAlaska, Mount McKinley, West ButtressAn Alaska Denali Guiding Party led by Blaine Smith took ten days to reach the 14,200 foot camp on the West Buttress of Mount McKinley arriving May 23. Jack Miller (...

Indian Ascents and Attempts in Garhwal. Two Indian expeditions successfully climbed Gangotri I (6672 meters, 21,890 feet). The leaders were Dr. Anjan Chowdhury and Debasish Kanji. Sisir Karmaker and Laxman Rana of the first party climbed to the su...

Aguja Guillaumet, Various Ascents. Aguja Guillaumet saw several ascents during the 1995- 1996 season. Perhaps most noteworthy was Richard Aschert and Bryan Becker’s ascent of a new variation to the 1981 Buscaini/Metzeltin Route on the southeast fa...

Boboquivari Peak, Babo Heads. In January, I soloed Babo Heads (IV 5.11 a) on the south face of Boboquivari Peak. The route starts a few hundred feet left of the Southeast Arête and climbs a line of bolts (placed during someone’s failed attempt) to...

Ama Dablam. On April 11 our Australian expedition arrived at Base Camp for the north ridge of Ama Dablam after a 16-day walk-in from Karantichap. This was at 16,800 feet at the head of the lateral moraine valley of the Ama Dablam Glacier, south-so...

Annapurna, Northwest Buttress Attempt. Annapurna’s still unclimbed northwest buttress is very dangerous. My friends and I are still alive, but we were in the wind from many avalanches in Camp I. An avalanche in Camp II killed a member of the Korea...

Mount Hood, Illumination Rock. In early August, Jim Petroske and I started up what we thought was the South Chamber Route. We ascended steep snow and ice to the base of the wall at the upper end of the chamber and directly below the South Pinnacle...

Annapurna South Face, Winter Attempt, 1984-5. A Japanese expedition attempted the 1970 British route on the south Face of Annapurna in the winter of 1984-5. The leader was Kuniaki Yagihara. On December 29, 1984 Yukio Matsunaga and Hideji Nazuka go...

McKinley, Rapid Multiple Ascents. After 11 days of acclimatization, Brad Johnson left the 17,200-foot camp on May 19 and climbed round-trip to the north summit and back in 3 hours 40 minutes. The next day, he and companions climbed to the south su...

Trisul. A Spanish expedition led by Jaime Izquierdo made the ascent of Trisul. Details are not yet available.