Cho Oyu Attempt, 1989. A Japanese expedition led by Kiyoshi Ishii unsuccessfully attempted a winter ascent of the southeast face of Cho Oyu. The high point of 5700 meters was reached on January 16, 1989.Elizabeth Hawley
Peaks in the Cepo and Quempo chains. I accompanied Fernando Montenegro (Santiago) in several forays into these two rocky chains located in the Santiago hinterland, east of the ski resort of Farellones. The peaks we chose were small by Chilean stan...
Hiunchuli, Annapurna Group. The first ascent of Hiunchuli (21,135 feet), east of Annapurna South or Moditse was made on October 10 by U.S. Peace Corps volunteers, led by Craig Anderson and Peter Cross. These two with Lane Smith, James Richards and...
Glaciation in the Cordillera Real. Notable is the incredibly rapid retreat of the glaciers. Cirques that were once under glacial ice are now bare rock. On some routes, fixed protection placed in past years is now ten or more feet above snow level....
Nun-Kun Group. A number of the peaks in the Nun-Kun group were successfully climbed. Nun (7135 meters, 23,410 feet) was ascended by Japanese Masakatsu Nakamura and Takenobu Matsumoto on August 6 and by twenty-one Indians led by Colonel G. V. Gauta...
Paornqússuit Qâvat Peninsula, Søndre Strømfjord. The little range where we sixteen French climbed in 1972 is some 55 miles from the airport above the right bank of the fjord. After placing three camps to reach the heart of the range from the coast...
Picos de Ansilta, 1991. The Picos de Ansilta are seven high mountains north of Mercedario. Their access is from the city of San Juan but the peaks are seldom ascended because they demand a long approach. On March 25, 1991, Humberto Campodónico and...
Norwegians Bjorn-Eivind Aartun and Ole Lied climbed a spectacular ice route on the left side of the steep south face of Torre Egger, overlooking the Col of Conquest. They first climbed 600m (6a Al) of El Area de los Vientos to the col, where...
FALLING ROCK, POOR POSITION Colorado, Rocky Mountain National ParkOn May 18, 1989, Tricia Timms (20) was struck in the hip by a 14 kg rock on Eagle Cliff Mountain. Timms had been sitting at the base of a cliff band, directly in the fall line of ra...
Shimshal Valley Climbs and Tragedy. Six Irish Mountaineers, Margaret Magennis, Dawson Stelfox, John Armstrong, Willie Brown-Kerr, Jenny Clark and I, visited the Malangutti Glacier in the Shimshal valley in July to attempt peaks up to 6000 meters, ...
Canyonlands National Park, Maze District. John Rosholt and Keen Butterworth climbed The Epicurean (III, 5.10c, 5 pitches) on the north face of the South Butte of the Cross.Eric BjØrnstad
STRANDED, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, INEXPERIENCECalifornia, Yosemite National Park, Lembert DomeOn June 30, 1991, at 1230, Mary Swartz (25) came to the Toulumne Meadows Ranger Station to report that her friend Mark Fritz (26) was stranded approximatel...
AVALANCHE, POOR CHOICE OF ROUTE Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Plain of Six GlaciersTwo climbers visiting from Europe attempted to reach Abbot s Pass from Lake Louise on May 11, 1993. They turned around due to the evident avalanche hazard, but on the w...
Tirsuli West (7035m), attempt. In May a seven-member German team led by Ralf Messbacher attempted the west ridge, reaching ca 6320m, much the same altitude as that achieved on the only previous attempt, in 1995 by an Anglo-New Zealand party. The G...
Phabrang, P 5920 and Other Peaks, Lahoul. We were six climbers: Chris Blatter, leader, Charles Bates, Rachael Cox, Joshua Lieberman and me from the United States and Martin Mazurek from Switzerland. Our excellent liaison officer, Surrinder K. Shar...
FRANCES D. RANDALL1925-1984Frances D. Randall will always be remembered as the “Queen of the Kahiltna.” She worked as Base Camp Manager on the Kahiltna Glacier for nine summers, developing a motherly rapport with thousands of McKinley climbers. He...
Thalay Sagar, north face, new route, One Way Ticket. Stéphane Benoist and Patrice Glairon-Rappaz from France discovered a very thin line of goulottes and ice smears running up the face just left of the Central Couloir and climbed it over 10 days u...
Simian Outing Society. The Simians began the year by instructing beginners on the local cliffs of Portland Arch, Indiana. These cliffs have since been closed by the state, and the area has been incorporated into the Indiana system of natural areas...
Mana Northwest Attempt and Ascent of P 6687. Unclimbed Mana Northwest (7092 meters, 23,270 feet) lies northwest of Mana and south of Kamet on the ridge which connects the two. Our four-member team from Bombay, P.B. Bodhane, Subhas Kharde, Anil Cha...
Jøkulkyrkia, Queen Maud Land. Under the leadership of Norwegian Ivar Tollefsen, Norwegians made a number of notable ascents. On January 10, all 13 members, including Ralph Høibakk, reached the 3148-meter (10,329-foot) summit of Jøkulkyrkia. The pa...