Norwegians Bjorn-Eivind Aartun and Ole Lied climbed a spectacular ice route on the left side of the steep south face of Torre Egger, overlooking the Col of Conquest. They first climbed 600m (6a Al) of El Area de los Vientos to the col, where...
FALLING ROCK, POOR POSITION Colorado, Rocky Mountain National ParkOn May 18, 1989, Tricia Timms (20) was struck in the hip by a 14 kg rock on Eagle Cliff Mountain. Timms had been sitting at the base of a cliff band, directly in the fall line of ra...
Shimshal Valley Climbs and Tragedy. Six Irish Mountaineers, Margaret Magennis, Dawson Stelfox, John Armstrong, Willie Brown-Kerr, Jenny Clark and I, visited the Malangutti Glacier in the Shimshal valley in July to attempt peaks up to 6000 meters, ...
Canyonlands National Park, Maze District. John Rosholt and Keen Butterworth climbed The Epicurean (III, 5.10c, 5 pitches) on the north face of the South Butte of the Cross.Eric BjØrnstad
STRANDED, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, INEXPERIENCECalifornia, Yosemite National Park, Lembert DomeOn June 30, 1991, at 1230, Mary Swartz (25) came to the Toulumne Meadows Ranger Station to report that her friend Mark Fritz (26) was stranded approximatel...
AVALANCHE, POOR CHOICE OF ROUTE Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Plain of Six GlaciersTwo climbers visiting from Europe attempted to reach Abbot s Pass from Lake Louise on May 11, 1993. They turned around due to the evident avalanche hazard, but on the w...
Tirsuli West (7035m), attempt. In May a seven-member German team led by Ralf Messbacher attempted the west ridge, reaching ca 6320m, much the same altitude as that achieved on the only previous attempt, in 1995 by an Anglo-New Zealand party. The G...
Phabrang, P 5920 and Other Peaks, Lahoul. We were six climbers: Chris Blatter, leader, Charles Bates, Rachael Cox, Joshua Lieberman and me from the United States and Martin Mazurek from Switzerland. Our excellent liaison officer, Surrinder K. Shar...
FRANCES D. RANDALL1925-1984Frances D. Randall will always be remembered as the “Queen of the Kahiltna.” She worked as Base Camp Manager on the Kahiltna Glacier for nine summers, developing a motherly rapport with thousands of McKinley climbers. He...
Thalay Sagar, north face, new route, One Way Ticket. Stéphane Benoist and Patrice Glairon-Rappaz from France discovered a very thin line of goulottes and ice smears running up the face just left of the Central Couloir and climbed it over 10 days u...
Simian Outing Society. The Simians began the year by instructing beginners on the local cliffs of Portland Arch, Indiana. These cliffs have since been closed by the state, and the area has been incorporated into the Indiana system of natural areas...
Mana Northwest Attempt and Ascent of P 6687. Unclimbed Mana Northwest (7092 meters, 23,270 feet) lies northwest of Mana and south of Kamet on the ridge which connects the two. Our four-member team from Bombay, P.B. Bodhane, Subhas Kharde, Anil Cha...
Jøkulkyrkia, Queen Maud Land. Under the leadership of Norwegian Ivar Tollefsen, Norwegians made a number of notable ascents. On January 10, all 13 members, including Ralph Høibakk, reached the 3148-meter (10,329-foot) summit of Jøkulkyrkia. The pa...
The Mazamas. The Mazamas of Portland, Oregon, scheduled 231 climbs, 241 hiking trips, 15 outings, and four expeditions during their year ending September 30, 1988. The expeditions included Bob Wilson’s group of four on an ascent of Cerro Chopicalq...
Air Survey of Nepal. Anderson Bakewell, S. J., now at De Nobili College, Poona, has drawn our attention to a Reuter dispatch of January 1949 concerning a projected "topographical map of 29,000 sq[uare] miles of catchment areas of the three main ri...
On July 13, Eric Lougee, with two years of climbing experience, took his cousin, Donald Lougee (33), to Cannon Cliff for what Donald thought was to be an introductory climbing lesson. After a short lesson, the two men started up Lakeview. When D...
Washington, Dome Peak Area, Spire Point—Sixteen climbers were on an official Mazama outing in the Dome Peak Area with a base camp located near Cub Lake. Outing was under the leadership of Ed Dolan and Jim Craig. On August 6, the entire group start...
STRANDED, BAD WEATHER, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENTCalifornia, Yosemite ValleyStanley Garrison (22) and John Suttle (25) stated that they had hiked to the base of Half Dome on Friday and began climbing Saturday morning, October 28. They ascended at an ade...
Chogolisa Attempt. A Spanish expedition led by Mariano López failed to climb the route on Chogolisa on which Hermann Buhl lost his life.
Mount Hunter, North Buttress. Finally, the north buttress has been climbed all the way to the summit. It was Doug Klewin’s fourth and my second try. We began to the left of Mug Stump’s start (See A.A.J., 1982, pages 118 to 183), climbing eight pit...