Washburn RememberedEncounters with the man and his photographs.Henry Bradford Washburn Jr. died on January 10, 2007, after a remarkable life as a mountaineer, cartographer, photographer, and museum director. A full obituary can be found elsewhere ...
Gaurishankar, northeast ridge attempt. The noted American mountaineer, John Roskelley, and his son Jess aimed to make the first ascent of Gaurishankar (7,134m) from its Tibetan side. The mountain defeated them as it had at least three earlier atte...
Spirits of the Air. Kurt Diemberger. Translated from the German by Audrey Salkeld. The Mountaineers, Seattle, 1994. 304 pages, numerous photographs, maps and other drawings. Appendices: a metric conversion table, chronology of the author’s importa...
CorrigendaMr. N. E. Odell informs us that Mrs. Chisholm of Glen Brittle, Skye (A.A.J. v, p. 372), is still living and that he talked with her by phone in December. We regret our incorrect report and also the error (p. 445) through which the name o...
Peaks in Southern Schweizer land, East Greenland. Our ski, mountaineering and scientific expedition of the Ligure Section of the Italian Alpine Club consisted of Anthony House, Marco and Enrico Chierici, Emma and Gianni Bisio, Paolo Gardino, Bruno...
King PeakElton ThayerKING Peak, 17,130 feet, occupies a remote position in the St. Elias Range. It opposes the north slopes of Mount Logan across the intervening King Glacier and overlooks the Seward icefields stretching toward the Gulf of Alaska....
Ruth Gorge, Snowpatrol second ascent, Cornhole Couloir, and British invasion. It’s late March and only six days into a three-week trip in the Ruth Gorge, with beautiful unclimbed lines towering in every direction, and my partner decides to throw i...
FALL ON ROCK–FAILURE TO CLIP INTO QUICKDRAW, WEATHER, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT–SHOESNew Hampshire, Rumney CragsMark (33) and I have been climbing together for a few years now. I recently took a lead climbing course and have already led a few climbs. O...
Utah, Little Cottonwood Canyon. On 19 September Mark McQuarrie (18) and George Lowe planned to make the first complete ascent of the buttress above the LDS church archives in Little Cottonwood Canyon. Lowe reports: We were carrying with us around ...
From April 7 to 21, 2007, a British group comprising Juliette and Simon Ash, Darren Davis, Sandy Gregson, Julie Urquhart, and I as leader, made a ski-touring and mountaineering trip to the small icecap at the northern end of Liverpool Land. We fle...
FALL ON ROCK AND ICE, INADEQUATE BELAY Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount TempleOn July 6, 1986, J.H. (38) and I.M. (23) were climbing the North Face of Mount Temple. Climbing conditions were poor due to fresh snow and verglas above 2700 meters, and ...
“I want to do a climb that takes the ultimate—and still succeed.” —Royal Robbins in Mountain 18. Embick begins: AFTER last summer’s climbs in the Kichatnas (see American Alpine Journal, 1977 and Climbing Jan..Feb. 1977) Mike Graber went back ...
Stu McAleese, Mark Thomas, and I (from Wales, U.K.) spent three weeks in May completing a new big-wall aid route on a previously unclimbed formation in Baffin Islands Stewart Valley. I had spotted the line in 1999 when Jerry Gore, Shaun Hutson,...
Mount Russell, West Chimney, The west face of Mount Russell is one of the finest big walls in the Sierra Nevada. In early September, after descending from another route on the peak, Steve Porcella and I stood under this face and spotted a steep ch...
Nutarmuit Island, Ullukkut. Originally I had wanted to climb a formation on Qaersorssuaq Island, however on the July boat ride there we saw that my topo map was not entirely accurate. So a quick change in plans, and Donny Alexander and I were on t...
North Face of Mount Maude. On June 16, 1957 John Rupley, Fred Beckey, Herb Staley, and I made the first ascent of the 4000-foot wall on the north side of Mount Maude, a prominent 9100-foot peak in the North Cascades, situated between the headwater...
EVERETT L. DARR 1907-1981Everett L. Darr died June 21, 1981, at the age of 74. He had been active in the mountain climbing and skiing scene around Mount Hood for over 50 years. He started his Mountain Shop in Portland, Oregon, in 1937. Later, afte...
Uddin Zom, First Ascent. In July and August, a team of four visited the little-explored Hindu Raj in northwest Pakistan. Adam Thomas, Phil Amos and Simon Woods from the U.K. and Jock Jeffery from New Zealand departed on July 3 from Chitral to the ...
North Face of Higher Cathedral Rock. No one had ever really looked at this face with the thought of climbing it without using many bolts, but Robert Kamps and Charles Pratt returned from reconnoitering with some hopeful news. They had spotted a va...
Orvin Fjella Mountains, Holsttind (2,577m), north face, Pilier de Choudens-Renard; Ulvetanna (2,931m), southwest ridge, attempt; Clara Peak; Klevetind; Little Klevetind; Unnamed Pillar. Flying via Cape Town and the Russian base of Novolazarevskaya...