Eastpost Spire. The southeast ridge, a new route on this peak, was ascended by John Manry, Cam Mitchell, Jack McKenzie and Hans Gmoser, all of the Alpine Club of Canada. The climb starts at the lowest point of the rock ridge and involves approxima...
Bona and Tressider. Our party included several from the Mount Logan Project: Tom Lyman, Jenny Cook, A.J. LaFleur and me. Coming from the East to join us were Stu and Gail Ashley, Rick Wilcox, Fred Bragdon, Jeff Black, Howard and Sue Stidham and St...
Himlung Himal. An expedition of the Federation of All Japan Mountaineering Unions, led by Hisachika Zenko, tried to climb Himlung Himal (23,380 feet), which is near the border between Nepal and Tibet, northeast of Annapurna. This seven-man party w...
Longpo Gang or Big White Peak. A joint Japanese-Nepalese expedition made the second ascent of this peak (7083 meters, 23,238 feet) via the east ridge, the same route taken by the Japanese in 1962. They set up Camps I, II and III at 15,425, 17,625 ...
Mount Thor, West Face. A Japanese expedition climbed a route on the 4500-foot-high west face of Mount Thor. The face had been attempted by Ronald Sacks, Steve Ampter and Michael Sawicky, who climbed 3400 vertical feet before a storm drove them off...
Kohe Larissa, Shir Koh, Kohe Hevad, Kohe Dusti, Ishmurgh Valley. The Biomedical Hindu Kush Expedition of the German Alpine Club (DAV) and the University of Munich was led by Dr. Roman Zink and composed of Dr. Udo Irmler, Dr. Sylvester Lechner, Max...
Unnamed (10,150 ft.). Ten or 12 miles N. E. of the Big Bend bridge (Columbia River), from which it is seen prominently; 5 miles E. of Canoe River, the highest in its group. 1940 first ascent by H. S. Hall, Jr., E. Feuz, Jr. A lumber road with brid...
El Toró or Yerupajá Chico and Other Peaks, Cordillera Huayhuash. Our expedition consisted of Toyoaki Arai, Moriaki Honda, Takachika Akino, Tateo Miyata and myself as leader, as well as the Peruvian porter Sergio Callupe of Pocpa. We left Chiquián ...
Huayna Potosí, First All-Woman Ascent. The Unión Panamericana de Montanismo and the Federatión de Andinismo de Chile jointly sponsored a South American all-woman expedition to the Cordillera Real of Bolivia. Twelve climbers with a distinguished re...
Belukha, Katun Range, Altai Mountains, Siberia. Nine Austrian and two Czechoslovakian mountaineers were invited to see this marvelous mountain region. Base Camp was installed by the Soviet Sports Committee at Lake Ak-Kem at 6650 feet. We were ther...
Pongos Group and Chopicalqui. The German Naturfreunde (Friends of Nature) was led by Rolf Röcker and composed W. Weber, F. Wibmer, H. Güner, W. Hummel, Dr. Schwenkglenks, P. Schiml and me. We first climbed nearly all the peaks in the Pongos group ...
The British Columbia Mountaineering Club is cooperating with the Mountain Rescue and Safety Council of the State of Washington in developing consciousness of mountain safety among its members in the Vancouver region This organization has had no fa...
El Capitan, Genesis, 1989. In May 1989, Doug Englekirk and I climbed a new route on El Capitan (Genesis, VI, 5.11b, A4+). It lies between Tribal Rite and the Wall of Early Morning Light or New Dawn. We began on Armageddon (5. 10d) and via some new...
Washington, Carbon River Area. On 29 August Martin J. Quinn (23) and a companion had intended to follow the trail to the Carbon Glacier and return. Enroute they decided (apparently on the spur of the moment) to climb up into the rocks that were al...
FAILURE TO FOLLOW ROUTE, FAILURE TO TEST HOLDS,FALLING ROCK California, Mount WhitneyOn July 27, 1987, Hummie Mann (31) and Sean Collinsworth had gotten off route in descending to Long Ledge. They realized their mistake, so Collinsworth climbed ba...
Annapurna IV Attempt. An expedition of seven French, two German and one Swiss was led by Hervé Thivierge. They attempted the normal northwest ridge. On October 6 Thivierge, Christophe Minster and Alain Villijer got to 6400 meters. Then a period of...
Nevado Huaguruncho, Tancash. Huaguruncho, meaning “the white tusk,” is the 24th highest mountain in Peru (according to web pages that give the summit an altitude of 5,780m [See note below for explanation—Ed]). Located in the Central Andes region, ...
Crystal Crag, East Face. Vern Clevenger and I climbed a three-pitch F9 route on the left side of this face in January. It begins on the right side of a prominent dihedral. Crystal Crag is near Mammoth Lakes. NCCS I, F9.Galen Rowell
Mt. Wilson, 14,250, and Wilson Peak, 14,026, were ascended by a party of the Colorado Mountain Club early in July, 1929. The former is not an easy peak and has not been fully explored by climbers. It is thought that an unnamed peak about one or tw...
KR6. Japanese climbers Shoichi Hasegawa and Atuhisa Kasugadani left Patisio to make their Base Camp on August 1 north of KR2 at 4650 meters. They went over a col in the northwest ridge of KR2 and descended to the Chandra River, where they put Adva...