Aguja Saint Exupery, South Face, Petit Prince, Variation and South Face, Attempt. Etienne Fine and Philippe Driel (France) completed the third ascent of Petit Prince between January 12-25, 2000. They fixed ropes on the lower half of the face and t...
MISSING CLIMBERS—CAUSE UNKNOWN British Columbia, Rocky Mountains, Mount RobsonOn August 17, 1984, Nicholas Vanderbilt (25) and Francis Gledhill (29) ascended the lower slopes of Mt. Robson to the hut 1500 meters above Killey Lake on the southwest ...
Panwali Doar Attempt. Our expedition was composed of Ryoji Ide, Tetsuo Mochizuki, Haruo Omori, Kenichi Takahashi and me as leader. We attempted the south ridge of Panwali Doar (21,854 feet), which lies just south of Nanda Devi. We climbed from May...
University of Wyoming Outing Club. The Club began 1963 with a trip to Mexico, where ascents of Orizaba and Popocatepetl were made. During January and February cross-country skiing in the Snowy Range and the Tetons was the Club’s major activity. Th...
Shivling Tragedy. After delays, Richard Cox and I reached Gangotri on August 31. The walk-in with seven porters to Base Camp at 14,600 feet at Tapovan was from September 1 to 3. We acclimatized until September 17. Advance Base Camp was established...
El Segundo Buttress, South Face. The first ascent of this striking buttress above Whitney Portal was made March 21 by Michael Heath and me. The route ascends a crack system past a prominent overhang, then continues up incipient cracks on the nose....
Coopers Creek to Langtang II by Peter Taylor. Adelaide, Australia: Rigby Limited, 1964. 239 pages, 38 photographs.Too often we read about highly organized expeditions that conquer Himalayan peaks by the sheer weight of logistical support. In Peter...
Cerro Torre, Maestri Route. Italians Elio Orlandi and Livio Rigotti climbed the Maestri route on Cerro Torre. They reached the summit, in two days, alpine- style, on December 14 and spent a third on the descent. They had arrived in Argentina on No...
Ruth Gorge, Barrill (2,332m/7,650'), northeast face, Alaskan Primer. On May 13 Ben Gilmore and Hans Johnstone climbed a new route on the northeast face of Barrill, in a 12-hour trip from bergschrund to the summit, before descending the far side to...
Indian Mountaineering Institutes. The Nehru Institute of Mountaineering, Uttarkashi, set up on November 14, 1965, has made considerable progress under the able guidance of its Principal Brigadier Gyan Singh. Last October and November they conducte...
Makalu Attempt. An expedition led by Cesare Cesa Bianchi and composed of Cristina Moneta and Stefano De Benedetti established Base Camp at 4700 meters on September 14. They used the camps we left set up for them from our expedition. Because of bad...
Hualca Hualca. Our expedition from Bergamo was composed of Elena Bordogni, Andrea Facchetti, Mario Quattrini, Gianni Scarpellini, Giorgio Tofanini and me as leader. Porters were Macario Angeles and Natividad Demetrio. All of us on August 7 made th...
Yosemite Climber compiled by George Meyers. Diadem Books (London)/ Robbins Mountain Letters (Modesto, California), 1979. 96 pages, photos. Price $14.95.I am a camera. I’ve been in many haul bags and been handled by anxious chalky hands. I’ve snapp...
Cho Oyu Attempt, 1989. A Japanese expedition led by Kiyoshi Ishii unsuccessfully attempted a winter ascent of the southeast face of Cho Oyu. The high point of 5700 meters was reached on January 16, 1989.Elizabeth Hawley
Peaks in the Cepo and Quempo chains. I accompanied Fernando Montenegro (Santiago) in several forays into these two rocky chains located in the Santiago hinterland, east of the ski resort of Farellones. The peaks we chose were small by Chilean stan...
Hiunchuli, Annapurna Group. The first ascent of Hiunchuli (21,135 feet), east of Annapurna South or Moditse was made on October 10 by U.S. Peace Corps volunteers, led by Craig Anderson and Peter Cross. These two with Lane Smith, James Richards and...
Glaciation in the Cordillera Real. Notable is the incredibly rapid retreat of the glaciers. Cirques that were once under glacial ice are now bare rock. On some routes, fixed protection placed in past years is now ten or more feet above snow level....
Nun-Kun Group. A number of the peaks in the Nun-Kun group were successfully climbed. Nun (7135 meters, 23,410 feet) was ascended by Japanese Masakatsu Nakamura and Takenobu Matsumoto on August 6 and by twenty-one Indians led by Colonel G. V. Gauta...
Paornqússuit Qâvat Peninsula, Søndre Strømfjord. The little range where we sixteen French climbed in 1972 is some 55 miles from the airport above the right bank of the fjord. After placing three camps to reach the heart of the range from the coast...
Picos de Ansilta, 1991. The Picos de Ansilta are seven high mountains north of Mercedario. Their access is from the city of San Juan but the peaks are seldom ascended because they demand a long approach. On March 25, 1991, Humberto Campodónico and...