Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Argentine Patagonia, Aguja de la Silla, West Face, Attempt

Aguja de la Silla, West Face, Attempt. In January, 2000, Tommy Bonapace and Christian Zenz (Austria) attempted the west face of Aguja de la Silla in alpine style, spending six days on the wall. They retreated 300 meters from the summit. Bonapace h...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India—Garhwal, P 6648 Attempt, near Nanda Devi and Trisul, 1975

P 6648 Attempt, near Nanda Devi and Trisul, 1978. Our expedition to Garhwal was organized by me and led by Stanislaw Zygmunt Zdrojew- ski. The other members were Marian Jarosz, Wojciech Jablonski, Ryszard Doniez, Pawel Murzyn, Józef, Lecki, Witold...


Club Activities AAJ
Yale Mountaineering Club

Yale Mountaineering Club. There were two significant aspects of the Club’s activity in 1963: the development of the west face of Ragged Mountain in Meriden, Conn., as a climbing area and the widespread accomplishments of the members during the sum...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, California—Sierra Nevada, The Sphinx, North Butttress

The Sphinx, North Buttress. From the roadhead near Cedar Grove on the south fork of the Kings River, it is a long uphill hike to the tree-crowned, semi-alpine ridge south of the Sphinx. The Sphinx is an impressive tower near the highest point of a...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South American, Chilean–Argentine Patagonia, Poincenot, Saint Exupéry and Attempt on Cerro Stanhardt

Poincenot, Saint Exupéry and Attempt on Cerro Stanhardt. The Swiss Martin Moosberger and Thomas Wüschner climbed Aguja Poincenot by the Whillans route on November 11 and got to the summit of Saint Exupéry by the Italian route on December 6. On Nov...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Bhutan, Drungso Ri

Drungso Ri. Our recent ?expedition” to Bhutan involved crossing the country from Thinpu in the west to Tashigang in the east. We were doing a research project on endemic goitre and genetics studies. During the five months I reached the northern bo...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Numbur

Numbur. Koreans led by Lee Yeong-Chul made the seventh ascent of Numbur, climbing the southwest ridge to the west ridge. On September 25, Shin In-Sik and Nima Ongchu Sherpa climbed to the summit.Elizabeth Hawley


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Chile, Northern Patagonia, Lake District, Cochamo, Cerro Trinidad and Neighboring Peaks

Cochamo, Cerro Trinidad and neighboring peaks. (Editor’s note: In the 2001 AAJ, p. 300, Ian Parnell gives a summary of a traverse of many ridges in the Cochamo area by Lucy Regan, Brian Bigger, and James Marshall. More information on the traverse ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Gangapurna

Gangapurna. The pre-monsoon Japanese Hachioji expedition had Katsuhiko Miyoshi as leader and Mistuu Hirashima as deputy plus five others. Villagers from Manangbhot threatened them and seized all their cash, some 4000 rupees. Base Camp was at 17,50...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Bolivia, Nevado Nina Collo, South Face

Nevado Nina Collo, South Face. In the third week of June, Britons Angus Andrew and Neil Howells made the first ascent of the south face of Nina Collo (5280 meters, 17,323 feet). The climb was nearly all on ice. The peak is seen prominently from th...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Argentina—Northern Andes, Cerro Tres Quebradas, West Peak

Cerro Tres Quebradas, West Peak. Our Italo-Argentine expedition had as members Italian scientists Francesco Matelli and Claudio Scala and Argentines Orlando Bravo, Juan Abregui, Rodolfo Alonso, José Paliza, Daniel Villagra and me. Between January ...


Accident Reports ANAM
No Rope, Climbing Alone, Unable to Downclimb, Jumped, Colorado, Boulder Canyon

NO ROPE, CLIMBING ALONE, UNABLE TO DOWNCLIMB, JUMPED Colorado, Boulder CanyonOn June 24, 1989, Stephen Gilmore (30), David McConnell (27) and Annette Hailey (31) were out to climb Cozyhangon “The Dome.” While getting ready and waiting for another ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, P 6931 and P 6572, Batura Glacier

P 6931 and P 6572, Batura Glacier. [P 6931 lies at the head of the Batura Glacier four kilometers northeast of Kampire Dior. The Italians give it an altitude of 7016 meters, derived from a Chinese glaciological survey, but the official altitude is...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Utah, San Rafael Swell

San Rafael Swell. Frosty Weller and Randall Weekley made the first ascent of Sandcastle by its northwest face (II, 5.10-, A2, 4 pitches). This is on the ridge between Cane Wash and Oil Well Flat. Plank Walk (I, 5.10, 1 pitch) on Scallywag Point wa...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, Exposure, Weather, Inadequate Clothing, California, Mount Whitney

FALL ON ROCK, EXPOSURE, WEATHER, INADEQUATE CLOTHINGCalifornia, Mount WhitneyOn September 6, 1991, Reeves Magi (40ish) and Douglas Siegfried (35ish) were attempting the East Buttress Route on Mount Whitney. At 1600 their calls for help were heard ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India, Eastern Garhwal, Nanda Ghunti, New Route

Nanda Ghunti, new route. Martin Moran led a six-member British expedition to this 6390m peak. Moran has been a regular visitor to the Garhwal for many years, carrying out significant exploration and making a number of noteworthy ascents. After est...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India—Kumaon and Garhwal, P 6940 ("Saraswati")

P 6940 (“Saraswati"). This peak lies on the Indo-Tibetan border, rising from the Saraswati valley near Badrinath. It is near Mana Pass and northwest of Kamet. The Indo-Japanese ladies’ expedition gave it the name of “Saraswati” after the river val...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Antarctica, Traverse to the South Pole

Traverse to the South Pole. Argentine Sebastián de la Cruz has just returned from his traverse to the South Pole from the Weddell Sea with Spaniards, which they accomplished from December 3, 1994 to January 24, 1995. The Spaniards were leader Fran...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Uli Biaho, Attempt and Near Disaster

Uli Biaho, Attempt and Near Disaster. A Spanish Catalan expedition led by Oscar Cadiach and composed of Enric Dalmau, Joan Carles Grisso and Lluis Rafols was swept down several hundred meters by an avalanche in the middle of the night as they were...


Club Activities AAJ
The Mountaineers

The Mountaineers. The Mountaineers continues to broaden its offerings of climbing courses, seminars, and programs with a continued commitment to conservation, stewardship, and access that creates a long-standing interest for its members. A growing...