Trango Attempts. A 5-man Japanese expedition led by Tomoyuki Watanabe attempted a new route on the Great Trango Tower to the right of the Norwegian buttress, climbing six pitches, and one of the already climbed routes on the Nameless Tower, but th...

STRANDED, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENTAlberta, Kananaskis Provincial Park, Mount Sir DouglasOn August 29, two climbers ascended Mount Sir Douglas via the East Ridge, alpine grade III, 5.6. Before beginning the route, they had decided they would descend th...

Pic Korona, Various Ascents. It was reported that I. and V. Plotnikov and V. Sergeev from Barnaul in Central Siberia climbed a new route (5A) in the winter on the west spur of Korona and another route (5B) up a series of icefalls on the northwest ...

Nevado de los Patos, Second Ascent. Swiss climber Louis Glauser and I spent several weeks doing mountaineering combined with high-altitude archaeological research. We began in Christmas 1984 in the Chilean side of the Puna. We first explored the n...

Patricia Bowl, Rock Creek Area. Paticia Bowl is a high bowl directly above (northwest) of Rock Creek Lodge. Access is via the trail from just above Rock Creek Lake. On the right (north) side of the bowl is a series of towers on the ridge. E-Ticket...

Mountaineering Dogs. To those already mentioned (A. A. J., ii, 553), one may add the following: H. M. Atkins, who ascended Mont Blanc in 1837, sketched the group of travellers, “not omitting a little dog belonging to Michel Balmat, which accompani...

Balloon Dome. After an abortive attempt in 1971 to find Balloon Dome, I returned in 1974 with the indefatigable Black brothers, Dave and Jim. During a four-day visit we climbed three new routes. West Face: the wall that faces Squaw Dome is dominat...

West Face of Sentinel Rock. After one failure in May, Tom Frost and I returned in June to make the first ascent of the 2000-foot west face. We started the climb at the very base of the wall and during the first day the climbing was about half free...

Savoia Kangri, Attempt. It was reported that Nick Bullock, Julian Cartwright, Jamie Fisher, Ewan and Ruaridh Pringle, Paul Schweizer and Alan Swann (U.K) attempted to make the first ascent of Savoia Kangri (7263m) via the southeast face in July. T...

Khangsar Kang (Roc Noir) Winter Attempt. Seven Koreans led by Lee Dong-Myung were unable to complete the ascent of Khangsar Kang (7485 meters, 24,557 feet), which they attempted by the south face. They got to 6600 meters on December 12.Elizabeth H...

East Face of Lone Pine Peak, Three Arrows. In April Hooman Aprin, Randy Grandstaff and I climbed this route on the sharp eastern rock crest of Lone Pine Peak. The route follows a southeast-facing trough, which occasionally becomes a dihedral, then...

Mount Blackburn, Northwest Ridge. On May 9, Paul Klaus flew Paul Barry, Mikki Hand, Randy Kinney and me to 7,200 feet on the Nabesna Icefield, north of Blackburn (16,390 feet). We placed camps at 9,700 feet, 11,300 feet and 13,300 feet on the stan...

Akher Chioh Attempt and Tragedy, Eastern Hindu Kush. My wife Anita Burkhardt-Fendt, Klaus Cramer, Christine Wieloch, Dr. Klaus Schönwald, Edeltraut Schönwald and I as leader hoped to make the fourth ascent of Akher Chioh (7020 meters, 23,032 feet)...

Glacier Dome, Annapurna Group. The Federation of All-Japan Mountaineering Union’s Chiba Prefecture expedition climbed in the Annapurna group. On October 16, Mitsuhiro Nishimura and the Sherpa Dorje stood on the summit of 23,800-foot Glacier Dome a...

Patagonian Ascents, 1978. I have just received more news from Mario González about the season in Patagonia. Fitz Roy was climbed by Italians and South Africans, both groups by the American route from the southwest. (Lo Scarpone has reported that t...

Piton Tower, West and North Faces. Stan Shepard and I made the first ascent of the west face on July 16, using pitons for aid and one bolt for safety. Near the bottom the route diagonaled left, then right, and proceeded generally up the center of ...

Yahuarraju, Northwest Face, Huantsán Norte’s Western Summit, West Face and P c. 5500. On May 31 and June 1 Walter Sachatonicek and I made a new route, the 2600-foot-high northwest face of Yahuar- raju (5675 meters, 18,619 feet). We climbed onto th...

Kinnuar Kailash or Jharkanden and Kailash. Technically difficult Kinnuar Kailash had remained virgin despite nine attempts. Captain Kiran Kumar was selected as leader of a Western Command Expedition, with Captain Lakha Singh as deputy. Base Camp w...

Suitilla, Attempt. A five-member Sahyagiri Trekkers expedition from Mumbai, led by Makarand Pendse, attempted Suitilla (6373m), an unclimbed peak in the eastern Kumaon that rises from the Yangchar Glacier (near the Kalabaland Glacier and Ralam Pas...

St. Elias Southeast and East Ridges Attempt. On June 13, Steve Bain, Karen Bush, Charlie Carr, Ben McKinley, Chip Morgan and I were on a fork of the Newton Glacier right below the southeast ridge of St. Elias. Our goal was to complete the unclimbe...