FALLING ROCKCalifornia, Yosemite National Park, Mount DanaOn September 27, 1992, John Hart (44) was belaying David Sanger (43) one pitch above the bergschrund on the left hand side of the Couloir on the Dana Glacier. Hart was about 20 to 30 feet a...
Chogolisa. The Upper Austrian Karakoram Expedition was composed of Gustav Ammerer, Alois Furtner, Fred Pressl, Fritz Priesner, Christoph Pollet, Hilmar Sturm and me as leader. On August 2 and 4 members of our expedition stood on the southwest summ...
FALL ON SNOW—British Columbia, Mt. Lefroy. Bill Tarchuk, Mike Krinsley, and Su-Chong Lim started to climb the east slope of Mt. Lefroy from Abbot Pass on August 6. Low down, the snow was soft with a mushy crust, but steepened to 35-40° and the cru...
Huascarán, Huandoy Norte. Our expedition consisted of only Alfred Lux and me. On June 10 we got to within 325 feet of the top of Chopi- calqui, before a storm hit, which forced us to turn back. We reached camp after a bivouac. On June 15 we climbe...
National DefenseDuring 1941 the Club placed its special knowledge at the disposal of the War Department and at the present time three of our members have been called to permanent posts in Washington where their experience is being applied to Natio...
Nanga Parbat. Our expedition was composed of Ichiro Hosoda, Yosuke Kurita, Shinji Chiba, Hideki Omiya, Toshiyuki Kitamura, Yasuhiko Mochizuki, Tsuyoshi Kokubo and me as leader. We took four days from Bunal to reach on July 26 the foot of the Diami...
Big Bend Highway. The following notes made in 1942 apply to the road between Golden and the bridge at the Big Bend:Mile 7. Moberly station. This was the site of Moberly’s winter headquarters during the survey period, but the original house no long...
Seven Pinnacles on Verita Ridge. On September 19 Fred Beckey, Steve and Bill Marts, Eric Bjornstad and I climbed six previously unclimbed pinnacles on Verita Ridge. Bjornstad and I climbed the south face of flat-topped Breakfast Tower, which is on...
Mantis Peak, North Couloir. On May 15, I climbed the north couloir on Mantis Peak, after making a ski descent from the Colonial-Névé Glacier Col. Access to the couloir was gained by ascending a narrow snow chute, just right of a restricting rock b...
Orville Coast, Antarctic Peninsula. A 7-man U.S. geological survey party (Mike Boyles, Paul Carrara, Karl Kellogg, Tom Laudon, Pete Rowley, British exchange scientist Mike Thomson and I) spent three months of the 1977-78 austral summer conducting ...
Langtrang Lining. The Canadian Peter Taylor returned to Langtrang Lirung (23,750 feet) in September and October to attempt a completely new route from the west. From Camp II at 21,400 feet, he and three Sherpas attacked the face of a 500-foot rock...
Nuptse, Southeast Pillar Attempt. It was reported that Wolfgang Pohl led an eight-member German Alpine Club expedition that reached 7050 meters on October 25 before turning back in the face of strong winds and low temperatures. Climbing up to the ...
Fitz Roy, North Buttress. An Italian expedition, composed of Benvenuto Laritti, Guido Pagani, Piero Perrod, Antonio Rainis, Giuliano Giongo, Bruno De Donà and Giovanni Costa, assisted by the Italian living in Buenos Aires, Cesarino Fava, made a ne...
On October 7 and 8 Chinese climbers Gong Xiaorui, He Chuan, and Wu Peng attempted the south face of Peak 5,086m, a granite shark’s fin nearly climbed from the opposite side a month earlier by Americans Dickey, Johnson, and Kellogg via the northw...
Yellowjacket Tower, South Face. From the ridge at the south base of the tower, Stella Degenhardt and Frank Fickeisen traversed west on a good ledge system leading to the base of a chimney which was climbed to the base of the summit block. The chim...
Monja Chica, Altar Group. Members of the Mountain Club of the Polytechnical School of the Ecuadorian army made the second ascent of Monja Chica (5120 meters, 16,798 feet), a peak located in the eastern end of the Altar massif. On January 1, 1981, ...
Mount Fairweather from Glacier Bay. On April 8, Mark Jefferson and I left Gustavus in two double kayaks with gear and supplies for an ascent of Mount Fairweather. We paddled 60 miles up Glacier Bay to its northwest terminus at Tarr Inlet. Tarr Inl...
Forel, Direct South Face and Nine First Ascents, East Greenland. The expedition of the Goslar-Westharz section of the German Alpine Club was composed of Theo Hilz, Wilhelm Huber, Klaus Suess and me as leader. We were in the field from June 19 to J...
Leaning Tower, West Face. On May 16 Jason Pickles and I climbed the West Face of the Leaning Tower free except for the initial insanely steep bolt ladder. Royal Robbins called the Tower, first climbed by Warren Harding in 1961 with heavy use of bo...
Mount Hunter, North Face. Benoît Grison and I made a new route on the north face of Mount Hunter from June 24 to 29. On the first day we climbed the huge ice gully that cuts the left side of the face. It rises precipitously in a series of vertical...