Seven Pinnacles on Verita Ridge. On September 19 Fred Beckey, Steve and Bill Marts, Eric Bjornstad and I climbed six previously unclimbed pinnacles on Verita Ridge. Bjornstad and I climbed the south face of flat-topped Breakfast Tower, which is on...

Mantis Peak, North Couloir. On May 15, I climbed the north couloir on Mantis Peak, after making a ski descent from the Colonial-Névé Glacier Col. Access to the couloir was gained by ascending a narrow snow chute, just right of a restricting rock b...

Orville Coast, Antarctic Peninsula. A 7-man U.S. geological survey party (Mike Boyles, Paul Carrara, Karl Kellogg, Tom Laudon, Pete Rowley, British exchange scientist Mike Thomson and I) spent three months of the 1977-78 austral summer conducting ...

Langtrang Lining. The Canadian Peter Taylor returned to Langtrang Lirung (23,750 feet) in September and October to attempt a completely new route from the west. From Camp II at 21,400 feet, he and three Sherpas attacked the face of a 500-foot rock...

Nuptse, Southeast Pillar Attempt. It was reported that Wolfgang Pohl led an eight-member German Alpine Club expedition that reached 7050 meters on October 25 before turning back in the face of strong winds and low temperatures. Climbing up to the ...

Fitz Roy, North Buttress. An Italian expedition, composed of Benvenuto Laritti, Guido Pagani, Piero Perrod, Antonio Rainis, Giuliano Giongo, Bruno De Donà and Giovanni Costa, assisted by the Italian living in Buenos Aires, Cesarino Fava, made a ne...

On October 7 and 8 Chinese climbers Gong Xiaorui, He Chuan, and Wu Peng attempted the south face of Peak 5,086m, a granite shark’s fin nearly climbed from the opposite side a month earlier by Americans Dickey, Johnson, and Kellogg via the northw...

Yellowjacket Tower, South Face. From the ridge at the south base of the tower, Stella Degenhardt and Frank Fickeisen traversed west on a good ledge system leading to the base of a chimney which was climbed to the base of the summit block. The chim...

Monja Chica, Altar Group. Members of the Mountain Club of the Polytechnical School of the Ecuadorian army made the second ascent of Monja Chica (5120 meters, 16,798 feet), a peak located in the eastern end of the Altar massif. On January 1, 1981, ...

Mount Fairweather from Glacier Bay. On April 8, Mark Jefferson and I left Gustavus in two double kayaks with gear and supplies for an ascent of Mount Fairweather. We paddled 60 miles up Glacier Bay to its northwest terminus at Tarr Inlet. Tarr Inl...

Forel, Direct South Face and Nine First Ascents, East Greenland. The expedition of the Goslar-Westharz section of the German Alpine Club was composed of Theo Hilz, Wilhelm Huber, Klaus Suess and me as leader. We were in the field from June 19 to J...

Leaning Tower, West Face. On May 16 Jason Pickles and I climbed the West Face of the Leaning Tower free except for the initial insanely steep bolt ladder. Royal Robbins called the Tower, first climbed by Warren Harding in 1961 with heavy use of bo...

Mount Hunter, North Face. Benoît Grison and I made a new route on the north face of Mount Hunter from June 24 to 29. On the first day we climbed the huge ice gully that cuts the left side of the face. It rises precipitously in a series of vertical...

Srikanta. A ten-man team led by Milan Sen Gupta from Asanol climbed Srikanta (20,120 feet) on May 16. Details are not known.Kamal K. Guha, Himalayan Club

Srikanta, All-Women’s Ascent. A 12-members all-women’s expedition from Uttarkashi, India, led by Chandra Prabha Aitwal, approached Srikanta (6133m) in September, establishing base camp at 4000 meters ahead of Jangla in the Dudu Bamak. After settin...

St. Elias. Alaskans Bob Antonson, Dave Blanchet, Ray Koleser and Todd Miner climbed St. Elias by the south ridge, the route first climbed by the Harvard group in 1946. They believe that this was the 15th ascent of the mountain.

California, Yosemite National Park, Middle Cathedral Rock. On 14 May Eric Beck (21) and Tom Frost were ascending the direct north buttress (Chouinard roper route) of Middle Cathedral Rock. On the fifth pitch Beck led up 5th class for 25 feet placi...

FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, PITON FAILURECalifornia, Yosemite ValleyOn May 3, 1983, John Kaput (31) fell while climbing on Commissioner’s Buttress, just north of Ranger Rock.Kaput was leading the climb and his partner, Scott Sleeper, was b...

Chicago Mountaineering Club. Climbing activity continues to intensify in the Midwest, and the club has adapted to this increased interest with more scheduled outings at Devils Lake, Wisconsin, and Mississippi Palisades at Savanna, Illinois. The mo...

Pico Poincenot, FitzRoy Group, Patagonia. The University of Dublin Expedition succeeded in climbing the Pico Poincenot (9961 feet), the sheer granite tower which spears the sky just west of FitzRoy. Led by Frank Cochrane, composed of the Irishmen ...