Bugaboo Spire, Symposium. Wyoming climber Alex McAfee took advantage of excellent early August weather to complete a new route, solo, that he’d started the previous year. Symposium (15 pitches, VI 5.8 A2+) ascends Bugaboo Spire’s 1,600' east face,...
Ingalls Peak, North Peak, Northwest Ridge. On October 6, Dred Dunham and I completed this short but interesting route. We gained the ridge from a polished ramp on the west about 150 meters from the start of the ridge proper, which was too rotten t...
The Mazamas. The Climbing Committee, chaired by Lynette Zuercher, scheduled 243 summer season ascents, which included 38 Basic School climbs and 10 Ski Mountaineering climbs. After enduring the attrition of inclement Northwest weather, 179 success...
Kang Guru Attempt and Tragedy. Five Austrians and a German led by Norbert Raich hoped to climb Kang Guru by its southwest ridge. The high point was reached on October 22 by Raich, three members and two Sherpas. The next morning the German, Berndt ...
McKinley, Southwest Face Traverse and Other Routes. Not liking snow conditions for a snowboard/ski descent, Dirk Collins and I opted for a traverse which took us from our camp at 14,300 feet on the West Buttress over the West Rib at 16,500 feet ac...
Leo Pargial and Other Peaks, Various Ascents. We (Arun Samant, leader; Aloke Surin, Anil Chavan and Ravi Wadaskar) went to the Chango Valley of the Kinnaur District in the Himachal Pradesh during July and August to attempt Leo Pargial (6791m), the...
Nanda Kot. A joint Indo-Japanese expedition led by Kosuke Ota was composed of seven Japanese and two Indians. On October 17, Masaki Nomura, Tsuyoshi Takeda, Hiroaki Takeishi, Akira Tomita and two Sherpas reached the summit (6861 meters, 22,510 fee...
Aguja del S. A 4-man Bulgarian party led by Alexandr Ruevski had hoped to climb Fitz Roy but could not because of bad weather. Miroslav Sevilevski and Valentin Trenev took advantage of a calm day to make a new route on the east-southeast face of t...
Mirrors in the Cliffs. Edited by Jim Perrin. Diadem Books, Ltd., London, 1983. 688 pages, 11 color plates and 21 pages of black-and white photographs, 26 cartoons by Sheridan Anderson. $12.95.Jim Perrin has put together a collection of 100 article...
RAPPEL FAILURE and FALL FROM BUILDING, JILTED Illinois, ChicagoDale Moll (33) fell 16 stories while attempting to use television cables on the roof of a highrise to rappel down to the window of his girlfriend’s fifteenth floor apartment. Less than...
Cordillera Vilcanota. From August 3 to 24, 1973 I led a German Alpine Club group to the Vilcanota. We were Holger Bantele, Karl Engelbrecht, Karl and Gunda Hacker, Franz Hauer, Horst Harich, Dr. Hans Macholdt, Dr. Rudolf Neeb, Alfred Späth, Dr. Ha...
Bífida, East Buttress, 1992. Austrians Georg Schörghofer and Paul Bruckner climbed a new 24-pitch route on the east buttress of Bífida which joined the Bonapace-Dünser route toward the top. Further details have not reached us.
Pigferago. A light French expedition operated in the Rolwalung Himal, between Gaurisankar and Namche Bazar. The group was led by Robert Sandoz and consisted of Mme. Cécile Barbezat, Alain Barbezat, Pierre Girod, Claude Maillard and Maurice Martin....
Annapurna Tragedy. A 14-man South Korean team led by Ko Yong-Chul abandoned its attempt after two members and four Sherpa porters were killed by an avalanche on September 19. The Korean victims were Lee Sang-Gu and Lee Seok-Jee; the Sherpas were D...
Rooster Comb Attempt. In August Paul Denkewalter and I made an attempt on the east face of the Rooster Comb from the Ruth Glacier. We reached 8200 feet in three days of climbing before retreating to wait out six days of rain and snow before return...
Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park (1)—On August 16, 1954, Roger W. Hollander (23) with one companion had ascended Disappointment Peak by the usual route. In the descent they took a short cut to Theater Lake by way of a snow gully 25 ft. wide. The...
Fisher Towers Area, New Ascents. Echo Tower, The Tapeworm (IV 5.8 A3, six pitches, 625 feet). The major new line on Echo Tower is located left of Run Amok on the south face of the landform. Pitch 1 begins up an A1 crack to 5.6 loose climbing then ...
Mount Kinabalu, Lows Gully, Second Ascent. In 1998, Steve Long had joined a trip to descend Lows Gully beneath Mount Kinabalu. The gully has long been famous as a mystical place of the dead and more recently infamous as the gully in which a group ...
Kun Attempt. Our expedition was composed of Carla Barbanti, Claudio Ansaloni, Gian Paolo Bassi, Ermanno Boccolari, Giancarlo Calza, Loris Duzzi, Pietro Feretti, Sergio Leoni, Massimo Lugli, Antonella Mezzadri, Luciano Pasquali, Gerardo Re Depaolin...
Broad Peak, winter attempt. Polish climbers Artur Hazjer and Robert Szymczak, along with Canadian Don Bowie and Pakistani climbers Qadrat Ali, Amin Ullah, Muhammad Ali, and Muhammad Taqi, attempted the first winter ascent of Broad Peak. This was t...