Guye Peak, West Face. The “Improbable Traverse” route was made on October 20 by Mike Borghoff and Dave Hiser, involving an ascent of a large corner on the left side of the face, then a traverse to the right on a blank-looking wall, followed by a l...
It was reported that Andy Benson, Kenton Cool, Rich Cross and Al Powell attempted the ca. 2600-meter west buttress of Sani Pakush (6885m), the pyramidal peak north of Chalt on the watershed between the Kukuay and Batura glaciers north of Broad Pea...
FALL ON ROCK, UNROPEDAlberta, Canadian Rockies, Mount TempleOn September 26, while down-climbing the steep grey rock band on the “tourist route” on Mount Temple, Banff National Park, LR slipped and fell to the scree below seriously breaking his le...
Cerro Arenales, Patagonia. An expedition, jointly sponsored by the Japanese Alpine Club and the Chilean Federación de Andinismo, made the first ascent of the Cerro Arenales (11,310 feet), which lies in the Cochrane Range above the northern part of...
Changtse Attempt. Our expedition was composed of Mike Barry, Richard Fry, Sarah Gillam, Leslie Lawrence, Shay Nolan, Donal O’Murchu, Danny and Geraldine Osborne, Dermot Somers, Phil Thomas and me as leader. We had hoped to ascend the southwest rid...
Gangapurna Winter Attempt. Timothy Brill led a group of six Americans, who attempted to climb Gangapurna (7455 meters, 24,457 feet) via the south ridge from the south. They were able to get to only 5800 meters on December 8.Elizabeth Hawley
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE BELAY, PROTECTION PULLED OUT Wyoming, TetonsOn June 24, 1988, at 1600, Matthew Lash (23) and Christopher Harder (26) were climbing a route called “Caveat Emptor” on Cathedral Rock. Herder led, completing the third pitch of...
Leuchtende Berge. A book of colored photographs of the Alps, by Jos. Jul. Schaetz. 72 pages, 28 colored photographs. Munich: F. Bruckmann, 1954.This is a very fine collection of colored photographs of the Alps by the writer and others. The picture...
Yalungkang. The twelve members of the Japanese Nihon University expedition were led by Shojiro Toriumi. They were on the southeast ridge of 27,625-foot Yalungkang in the Kangchenjunga group. Their highest camp, Camp V, was at 25,750 feet. They fai...
Masagang Attempt. Our expedition was composed of Britons John Lecky, Sean Smith and me and Americans Steve Sustad and Ed Webster. We hoped to make the second ascent of Masagang (7195 meters, 25,606 feet) by a new route. We flew to Paro on April 5,...
Sierra Club. In addition to the important conservation activity of the Sierra Club, climbing proceeded as usual. This year the numerous regular summer outings reached as far as Africa, where A1 Baxter led a successful trip to the Ruwenzori. Beside...
The Needles, South Face of Warlock. In June Jeff Dozier, Steve Gerdsen and I found a free variation of Beckey’s South Face route on Warlock (A.A.J., 1971, P. 355). To gain the summit crack system, we avoided an overhanging aid pitch by traversing ...
Brady Icefield Traverse and Mount Bertha Attempt. On May 6, Tim Baldwin, "Chipotle" Charlie Kiblinger, Brad Hopp, Tim Kelley, and I were flown into Reid Inlet in Glacier Bay National Park. We spent 23 days skiing and exploring the Brady Icefield. ...
FALLING ROCKCalifornia, Yosemite National Park, Mount DanaOn September 27, 1992, John Hart (44) was belaying David Sanger (43) one pitch above the bergschrund on the left hand side of the Couloir on the Dana Glacier. Hart was about 20 to 30 feet a...
Chogolisa. The Upper Austrian Karakoram Expedition was composed of Gustav Ammerer, Alois Furtner, Fred Pressl, Fritz Priesner, Christoph Pollet, Hilmar Sturm and me as leader. On August 2 and 4 members of our expedition stood on the southwest summ...
FALL ON SNOW—British Columbia, Mt. Lefroy. Bill Tarchuk, Mike Krinsley, and Su-Chong Lim started to climb the east slope of Mt. Lefroy from Abbot Pass on August 6. Low down, the snow was soft with a mushy crust, but steepened to 35-40° and the cru...
Huascarán, Huandoy Norte. Our expedition consisted of only Alfred Lux and me. On June 10 we got to within 325 feet of the top of Chopi- calqui, before a storm hit, which forced us to turn back. We reached camp after a bivouac. On June 15 we climbe...
National DefenseDuring 1941 the Club placed its special knowledge at the disposal of the War Department and at the present time three of our members have been called to permanent posts in Washington where their experience is being applied to Natio...
Nanga Parbat. Our expedition was composed of Ichiro Hosoda, Yosuke Kurita, Shinji Chiba, Hideki Omiya, Toshiyuki Kitamura, Yasuhiko Mochizuki, Tsuyoshi Kokubo and me as leader. We took four days from Bunal to reach on July 26 the foot of the Diami...
Big Bend Highway. The following notes made in 1942 apply to the road between Golden and the bridge at the Big Bend:Mile 7. Moberly station. This was the site of Moberly’s winter headquarters during the survey period, but the original house no long...