Ruby Lake Wall, “Technical Knockout.” It is somewhat confusing to describe routes on this wall. Basically, there is a series of four dihedrals in a row near the middle of the wall. The farthest left comer, which Kim Miller, Roanne Miller and I cli...
In AAJ 2008, pp. 194-195 the author states, “The sun never dipped less than 40° above the horizon.” Actually, the sun would never rise above ca 37°. The formula for the approximate elevation of the sun at midday on midsummer’s day is 23.5° + (90-...
You can still sense the excitement in Stefan Glowacz’s voice. During a short phone call last week, the adrenaline in his blood has not calmed down yet and neither has the joy in his voice! Together with his climbing partner Holger Heuber, the pro ...
FALL ON SNOW–FAULTY USE OF CRAMPONSCalifornia, Mount Shasta, Avalanche GulchOn July 3, a climber fell near The Heart in Avalanche Gulch at 12,500 feet while descending and stuck his crampons into his calf, receiving multiple deep puncture wounds. ...
To avoid duplication of effort in connection with the preceding research, it seems worthwhile to mention certain negative results. D. A. Robertson reports that careful investigation of the files of Baltimore papers fails to reveal any printed acco...
Olympic Mountains, Washington. I spent a month in the Olympic Mountains of Washington this summer, fortunately during the driest August on record, and enjoyed a whole month of sunshine. While surveying we ascended several of the peaks surrounding ...
Mount Russell, Southwest Buttress. On September 1, Gary Colliver, TM Herbert, and I climbed a steep crack in the south-facing western-most buttress of Mount Russell. Two horrifying cracks are apparent when the buttress is viewed from the western s...
Guye Peak, West Face. The “Improbable Traverse” route was made on October 20 by Mike Borghoff and Dave Hiser, involving an ascent of a large corner on the left side of the face, then a traverse to the right on a blank-looking wall, followed by a l...
It was reported that Andy Benson, Kenton Cool, Rich Cross and Al Powell attempted the ca. 2600-meter west buttress of Sani Pakush (6885m), the pyramidal peak north of Chalt on the watershed between the Kukuay and Batura glaciers north of Broad Pea...
FALL ON ROCK, UNROPEDAlberta, Canadian Rockies, Mount TempleOn September 26, while down-climbing the steep grey rock band on the “tourist route” on Mount Temple, Banff National Park, LR slipped and fell to the scree below seriously breaking his le...
Cerro Arenales, Patagonia. An expedition, jointly sponsored by the Japanese Alpine Club and the Chilean Federación de Andinismo, made the first ascent of the Cerro Arenales (11,310 feet), which lies in the Cochrane Range above the northern part of...
Changtse Attempt. Our expedition was composed of Mike Barry, Richard Fry, Sarah Gillam, Leslie Lawrence, Shay Nolan, Donal O’Murchu, Danny and Geraldine Osborne, Dermot Somers, Phil Thomas and me as leader. We had hoped to ascend the southwest rid...
Gangapurna Winter Attempt. Timothy Brill led a group of six Americans, who attempted to climb Gangapurna (7455 meters, 24,457 feet) via the south ridge from the south. They were able to get to only 5800 meters on December 8.Elizabeth Hawley
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE BELAY, PROTECTION PULLED OUT Wyoming, TetonsOn June 24, 1988, at 1600, Matthew Lash (23) and Christopher Harder (26) were climbing a route called “Caveat Emptor” on Cathedral Rock. Herder led, completing the third pitch of...
Leuchtende Berge. A book of colored photographs of the Alps, by Jos. Jul. Schaetz. 72 pages, 28 colored photographs. Munich: F. Bruckmann, 1954.This is a very fine collection of colored photographs of the Alps by the writer and others. The picture...
Yalungkang. The twelve members of the Japanese Nihon University expedition were led by Shojiro Toriumi. They were on the southeast ridge of 27,625-foot Yalungkang in the Kangchenjunga group. Their highest camp, Camp V, was at 25,750 feet. They fai...
Masagang Attempt. Our expedition was composed of Britons John Lecky, Sean Smith and me and Americans Steve Sustad and Ed Webster. We hoped to make the second ascent of Masagang (7195 meters, 25,606 feet) by a new route. We flew to Paro on April 5,...
Sierra Club. In addition to the important conservation activity of the Sierra Club, climbing proceeded as usual. This year the numerous regular summer outings reached as far as Africa, where A1 Baxter led a successful trip to the Ruwenzori. Beside...
The Needles, South Face of Warlock. In June Jeff Dozier, Steve Gerdsen and I found a free variation of Beckey’s South Face route on Warlock (A.A.J., 1971, P. 355). To gain the summit crack system, we avoided an overhanging aid pitch by traversing ...
Brady Icefield Traverse and Mount Bertha Attempt. On May 6, Tim Baldwin, "Chipotle" Charlie Kiblinger, Brad Hopp, Tim Kelley, and I were flown into Reid Inlet in Glacier Bay National Park. We spent 23 days skiing and exploring the Brady Icefield. ...