AlaskaMinimum thermometers on Mt. McKinley. The thermometers left on Mt. McKinley by the Parker-Browne expedition and by the party of Archdeacon Stuck have been the cause of much speculation. That of the former expedition had been placed “in a cre...
WARM LIMESTONE… Fires smearing on small rugosities… hands sunk into a perfect over-vertical crack… pleasant evenings spent brewing up on ledges that are just big enough to sleep on… and walking across the icefields in a storm that at least had t...
Women Climbing: 200 Years of Achievement. Bill Birkett and Bill Peascod. A & C Black Publishers, Ltd., London, 1989 and The Mountaineers, Seattle, 1989.Birkett’s and Peascod’s book on the climbing achievements of women during the last 200 year...
Keketuohai or Koktokay lies in the southern Altai Range of China’s Xinjiang Province, close to the border with Mongolia and 600km north-northeast of Urumqi. For three years I have attempted to travel to the area on the recommendation of non-...
TABLE IIEd. Note: The astute reader will notice that the total number of accidents reported in Table I does not coincide with the number of accidents reported here for the current year. This is because some areas distinguish between the accidents ...
Washington, Cascades, Mt. Pilchuck—On June 20, following an early supper, Scoutmaster Dearborn gave permission to Eagle Scout Henry Bryan (15) and his 23 companions to do some exploring in the vicinity of their Heather Lake Campsite. During their ...
FALL ON ICE, CLIMBING UNROPEDCalifornia, Palisade GlacierI (L. Collett, age 39) was several feet from the top of a small glacier or ice field couloir. The ice was quite exposed with very little snow crust. The slope was approximately 50 degrees. I...
Gasherbrum III attempt. All members of our expedition are serving in the British Army. They were Peter Lawes, Mark Skelton, John Morgan, Kevin Pritchard, Frank Lyman, Chris Davies, Dr. John Allen and I as leader. We followed the normal route on Ga...
Foraker, Winter Ascent. Brian Okonek, Roger Cowles and Dave Johnson made the second winter ascent of Foraker, climbing from the northeast over Mount Crosson. They were on the mountain from March ,2 to 23, reaching the summit on March 15. They were...
Colorado, Alamo Rock. On April 23, Lloyd Weber (26) was practicing rappelling in climbing school and was on belay. About 30 ft. above the ground Weber decided to change footing to cross an overhang. When his right foot made contact with the rock w...
EXHAUSTION, EXCEEDING ABILITIESAlberta, Banff National Park, Mount Temple, East RidgeOn August 10, a party of three was reported overdue to Warden Service dispatch. They had been about 30 hours on this alpine grade IV, 5.7 route when they were loc...
Peaks Above Harding Icefield, Kenai Fjords National Park. Rick Dare, Dallas Virchow, Joe Sears and I spent 13 days on the Harding Icefield in June. We reached the icefield via the Exit Glacier and spent three days hauling loads to Base Camp at a g...
Ama Dablam, Various Ascents in the Post-Monsoon. One-fourth of all the expeditions in Nepal in the post-monsoon season went to just one lovely 6812-meter peak in the Everest region. Mount Ama Dablam. Altogether 70 people from 14 of the season’s 19...
Gangapurna, South Face. James Blench, Dwayne Congdon, Dave McNab and I had been climbing together for the past three years and were close friends. We had learned to resolve our problems effectively. Four individuals with differing expectations, di...
El Capitan, Secret Passage. Sean Villanueva and I arrived in Yosemite wanting to free climb in a fun style: no fixing, no jugging, no rappelling, just finding our way and bringing the mandolin and flutes for some El Cap freestyle jamming. The firs...
Mt. Huntington. The west side of Mount Huntington was in better condition than other terrain at that elevation and as a result saw numerous ascents. The most notable was a 17-hour solo effort by Chris Turiano. He climbed the West Face Couloir to t...
Cordilleras Vilcanota and Vilcabamba: Verónica, Yucay, and Chicón Groups. An expedition from the Como section of the Italian Alpine Club visited the Cordilleras Vilcanota and Vilcabamba. The leader, who was accompanied by his wife, was Luigi Binag...
Peak 4810, Various Ascents. It was reported that on the 1100-meter east face of 4810 two significant routes were established in 1995. M. Astakhov, A. Kniazhev, Y. Koshelenko and A. Popov from Rostovna-Donu made the second ascent of the 6B Klenov r...
Cerro Catedral, Main Tower, South Face. Eduardo Brenner, Marcos Couch and I made a new route above Bariloche on the south face of the main tower of Cerro Catedral. There had been only one ascent of the face, that of Fonrouge and Klenk many years a...
Cordillera Quimsa Cruz, Note on Activity. Please note: the only way to know what has been climbed in the Quimsa Cruz is if climbers use grid references to identify the peaks. There is more confusion over peak names in the Quimsa Cruz than in any o...