Casa de Guías, Huaraz. The Asociación de Guiaís (guides) deú Peru has managed to have its own home built in Huaraz, which has been named the Casa de Guías. President of the association is Celio Villón and address of the Casa is Centro Comercial 28...
Fanskiye Gory, Western End of Pamir-Alai Chain. A strong 10-man expedition of the Czechoslovak Mountaineering Federation was led by Petr Schnábl. They made eleven ascents, six of them firsts. The new routes follow. Jirí Martiš and Petr Valovicon f...
Purísima. Our expedition to the Ruri Chinchey was plagued by bad weather. We failed to climb objectives at the head of the valley. Finally on July 13, the first day of really good weather in several weeks, Hugh Thompson, Harry Eldridge, Eric White...
The Appalachian Mountain Club is continuing courses and lectures on mountaineering problems, dealing largely with rock climbing and the rescue problems involved. The rock climbing section of its New York chapter is doing exemplary work in teaching...
El Capitan, Reach for the Sky, 1989. This route, done in the fall of 1989, starts several hundred yards left of the West Face route and above the huge chockstones in the gully. I spent eight days and four nights on the wall on this eight-bolt solo...
Washington, Mt. Rainier. At about 8:00 a.m. on 31 May Mr. Sundquist and his daughter, and Mr. James M. Reddick (51), with his son David (12) and daughter Sharon (11) left Paradise for Camp Muir. The party planned to spend the night in the public s...
FALLING ROCKCalifornia, Mount Norman ClydeOn June 29, 1987, a rappelling climber dislodged a boulder that hit Roy Bishop (54) on the head. He tumbled down ten meters, landing on a narrow ledge. After regaining consciousness, Bishop was tied off on...
Langtang Lirung Winter Ascent. The summit of Langtang Lirung (7234 meters, 23,734 feet) was reached for the ninth time when Japanese leader Akitsugu Nishimura, Pang Nima Sherpa and Ang Kazi Sherpa got to the top via the southeast ridge on December...
Annapurna II Attempt. A Japanese expedition of four had hoped to climb the southwest ridge of Annapurna II, a new route. They reached only 5100 meters and were stopped by the constant fall of séracs and stones. All three climbing members reached t...
Yanashinga, Direct South Face. José Li Linway, Diego Fernández, and I left the village of San Mateo (3,300m), arriving at Tíclio in the middle of the night and at the foot of the wall around 3:00 a.m on July 20. Roped as a team of three, with the ...
Charlotte Dome, Southwest Arête. Dave Lomba and I climbed 11 pitches of choice high-country granite along this narrow ridge. We skied over Kearsarge Pass in early May and camped near Bullfrog Lake. The climb was all free, clean, and took most of a...
The second ascent of the most difficult peak in Colorado, the Lizard Head, 13,156 feet, was accomplished on June 9, 1929, by Harold G. Wilm and Dobson West. The first ascent was made by Albert Ellingwood, accompanied by Barton Hoag, in 1920. The s...
Himachal Pradesh, Indian Ascents. A team from Dum Dum was led by Pabitra Bhusan Sanyal. The summit of CB53 (6095 meters, 19,995 feet) was gained on September 8 by Soumitra Ganguly, Chandan Lohia and high-altitude porter Maniram. This was the first...
A.A.C., Cascade Section. The section held three regular meetings during 1972. In addition, a family picnic was held in July and an annual banquet on December 8. Terris Moore gave an illustrated account of the 1932 Minya Konka climb at the March me...
Masherbrum Far West. A ten-man Italian expedition led by Augusto Zanotti climbed the most westerly peak of 7200 meters (23,622 feet) of the Masherbrum group by its west face. The summit was reached on September 8 by the leader Zanotti, E. Corbelli...
Cho Oyu Winter Attempt. South Tirolean Kurt Walde was hoping to make a solo climb of Cho Oyu by the normal route from Nepal on the western side of the peak. He was forced by terrible wind to retreat after reaching 7500 meters.
Kamet. A 13-man Indian expedition led by Anil Deb climbed Kamet (25,447 feet) on September 20. The summit team was deputy leader Pranesh Chowdhury and Sherpas Lapka Tsering and Nima Dorje.
New Altitudes of the Paso de San Francisco Region. North of the Ojos del Salado, the dry, high desert has almost been a blank on the map until the Argentine Instituto Geográfico Militar recently released the accurate map: Paso de San Francisco, Ho...
Mount Saint Elias, First Winter Ascent. On February 13, 1996, David Briggs, Gardner Heaton and Joe Reichert were flown to 2,300 feet on the Tyndall glacier, and, over the course of the next 30 days, ascended the southwest ridge of Mount Saint Elia...
Shisha Pangma Attempt. The 19-member expedition which Simonson led established Base Camp at the end of the road at 16,280 feet on September 20. Yaks transported our gear the 13 miles to Advance Base at 18,300 feet, established on September 25. Sim...