Mount Fairweather, West Ridge. Jack Bennett, Dan Bennett and Tom Bennett summitted Mount Fairweather (15,300 feet) on June 14. We believe this to be the only expedition to Mount Fairweather in 1995. Our approach was from the Upper Grand Plateau Gl...
PROTECTION PULLED OUT, FALL ON ROCKCalifornia, Yosemite Valley, El CapitanOn October 12, 1992, at 0730, Doug Chabot (28) was leading the 26th pitch of the Nose Route, El Capitan. He was aiding up a crack 40 feet out from the belay ledge (CampFive)...
Gasherbrum II, South Spur. The French Lyon Expedition was composed of Jean-Pierre Frésafond, leader, and his wife Hélène, Louis Audoubert, Frédéric Bourbousson, Marc Batard, André Chariglione, Jea Dupraz, Jean-Jacques Forrat, Bernard Macho, Dr. Al...
FALLING ROCK, NO HARD HAT—British Columbia, Bugaboo Range, Eastpost Spire. Julia Peck (15) was standing at the bottom of a chimney on Eastpost Spire on August 8, while Mary Witt (14) was climbing it, belayed by Bean Haworth (22). Witt stepped on s...
Uruashraju. On June 17 the Italian Carlo Mauri and I made the first ascent of Uruashraju ( 18,815 feet). Besides us two, the expedition included a second Italian, Carlo Aldé, the Peruvian climbers Macario and Emilio Angeles and the porters Octavia...
Glacier Studies in Alaska, 1941During August and September a party made up of Dr. Donald B. Lawrence, Maynard L. Miller, Anthony T. Ladd, and Wm. O. Field, Jr., spent six weeks studying the coastal glaciers of southeastern Alaska. The work was car...
Nanga Parbat. Our international expedition was a commercial but not a guided one. We ascended a variation of the Kinshofer route, climbing the snow couloir to the right of the normal arête. We were Frenchman Yves Durieux, German Rüdiger Schleypen,...
The Priest. Long a landmark near Moab, the 450-foot desert monolith, the Priest had apparently never been attempted by climbers. Waiting for Harvey Carter and me, Layton Kor spent a day in September, 1961 leading the first ascent of difficult Cast...
Pico Abanico, South Face, Sierra Nevada de Mérida. On February 25, E. Gómez, S. Pérez and I made the first ascent direct of the south face of Pico Abanico (“The Fan,” 4900 meters, 16,076 feet). The Busk expedition had followed an oblique route, th...
Island Peak, Solu Khumbu. The Danish climber Jesper Trier with three Sherpas climbed Island Peak (20,305 feet) on May 15. Several other ascents have been made.
Dedo del César. On February 18, 1978 the striking needle, Dedo del César (6200 feet) was climbed by an expedition of the Club Andino Bariloche. The summit team was Mario González, Guido Iglesias and Juan Pablo Nicola. The latter first saw the peak...
On October 23 and 24, 2008, Chinese mountaineers Chen Hui, Gu Qizhi, and Peng Xiaolong made the second known ascent of Daogou West, via a new route up the northeast couloir and north ridge, with a bivouac halfway up the couloir. The team app...
New Climbs in the Northern Pickets. A party of five, consisting of Frank de Saussure, Tony Hovey, Don Keller, and Joan and Joe Firey climbed in this seldom visited range in late July and early August. Crooked Thumb was ascended via a rotten gully ...
Huantsán from the South. We tried to climb Huantsaán by the south and southwest ridges. We considered the Italian route to Huantsán Oeste too dangerous and so chose the very long way across Huantsán Sur and Oeste. Base Camp was situated in the Que...
Burkett Needle, Voyage of the Celestial Tramps. From May 6-31, Sébastien Foissac and I put up a new route capsule-style on the southeast face of the Burkett Needle. Drop-off and pick-up by boat was made from Thomas Bay. We spent 41 days in the Coa...
P 1881 and P 1713, South Greenland. I led another expedition this year back to the region where we had been in 1978. (See A.A.J., 1979 pp. 222-3.) We were Gilles Tierle, Gérard Dussutour, Denis Capron, Henri Aubert, Maurice Nonde, Marie-Thérèse De...
El Capitan, Muir Wall. “Oh my God, he’s actually going to step off this ledge!” This was mythought as I watched my partner, Tommy Caldwell, step off a ledge and free-climb at the top of El Capitan. We had been on El Cap a year earlier, doing the N...
Mount Huntington, West Face, P 11,300 Traverse, and McKinley, Reality Ridge. Rob Rohn and I flew to the west fork of the Ruth Glacier on May 16 with the intention of alpine climbing and skiing in the area from a central base. On May 17 and 18 we a...
Manda II. On May 31 Samrjit Ghosh and Sherpa Gyalzen climbed Manda II (21,547 feet). No further details are known.Kamal K. Guha, Himalayan Club
Shivling, Attempt. Satyendra Rana led a five-member Himalayan Alpine Adventure Club from Delhi to Shivling (6543m). Continuous rockfall on the summit ridge compelled the expedition to be called off on July 5.Harish Kapadia, Honorary Editor, The Hi...