30 Years of Climbing Magazine. Climbing Magazine. Carbondale, CO: Primedia, 1999. 337 pages. $18.95.The Best of Rock & Ice: An Anthology. Dougald MacDonald, Editor. Seattle: The Mountaineers, 1999. 200 pages, black-and-white photographs. $17.9...
STRANDED ON DESCENT – UNABLE TO ASCEND ROPE, INADEQUATE SELFRESCUE SKILLS, COMMUNICATIONS PROBLEMS OVER DISTANCECalifornia, Yosemite Valley, Sons of YesterdayOn June 29, Curt (26) and Sherri (29) (pseudonyms) climbed Serenity Crack (three pitches,...
Everest, Northeast Ridge. Our expedition consisted of climbers Brummie Stokes, leader, Dr. Philip Horniblow, Harry Taylor, Joe Brown, Mo Anthoine, Dr. John English, Pete Long, Ali Kellas, Davy Jones, Ian Nicholson, Trevor Williams, Sam Roberts, Bi...
DUDLEY FRANCIS WOLFE1896–1939Dudley Francis Wolfe was born in Irvington-on-Hudson, New York, February 8, 1896. He disappeared on K2 in the Karakoram Himalayas, in the vicinity of Camp VII, with three Sherpa portersapproximately July 31st, 1939. No...
This is the twenty-eighth Annual Report of the Safety Committee of the American Alpine Club and the fifteenth in conjunction with the Alpine Club of Canada. After several years of able leadership under Dr. Benjamin G. Ferris, Jr., this report has ...
Tahu Rutum, attempt; Korea Youth Sar, possible first ascent. A seven-man Korean expedition led by Shim Kwon-sik attempted the west face of Tahu Rutum (6,651m) but gave up because of heavy snowfall, a porter strike, and other complications. Climber...
GEORGE MacGOWAN1902-1954Friends of George MacGowan were saddened at his passing on November 26, 1954. His death resulted from a coronary thrombosis while playing a game of handball, a sport which he had actively followed for many years. George lea...
Les Montagnes du Monde. Publié par la Fondation Suisse pour l’Exploration Alpine, Zürich. Lausanne: F. Rouge et Cie. Vol. I, 1946. Vol. II, 1947. Also, an edition in German, Berge der Welt. The institute which puts out these volumes has for its pu...
L.C. “JACK” BALDWIN 1921-1986The mountaineering world lost a great leader when, on June 26, Jack Baldwin suffered a fatal heart attack at age 65. Jack was bom in Hood River, Oregon and was a descendent of a pioneer Hood River family. He was educat...
Tents in the Clouds, by Monica Jackson and Elizabeth Stark. London: Collins, 1956. 255 pages; 24 pages of photographs; 5 sketch maps. Price 18 s.Mrs. Monica Jackson, Miss Betty Stark, and Dr. Evelyn Camrass accomplished something new in the way of...
Norwegians Contemplating Nanga Parbat. The Associated Press reported in January 1949 that Professor Arne Naesse, of Oslo University, is planning to lead a Norwegian expedition to Nanga Parbat in 1950.
Some New Ascents Near Maligne LakeW. R. HainsworthIN 1923 Howard Palmer and Allen Carpe carried out the first extensive climbing campaign in the Maligne Lake district, some twenty miles southeast of Jasper, Alberta. An account published by Palmer1...
Ski Traverse. Three members of the Austrian Ski Club made a notable traverse on skis of the central chain of the Caucasus this past summer. Hugo and Fred Rössner, and Anton Hromatka started from the Terek Valley on June 1st, and skied via the Khru...
AlaskaMinimum thermometers on Mt. McKinley. The thermometers left on Mt. McKinley by the Parker-Browne expedition and by the party of Archdeacon Stuck have been the cause of much speculation. That of the former expedition had been placed “in a cre...
WARM LIMESTONE… Fires smearing on small rugosities… hands sunk into a perfect over-vertical crack… pleasant evenings spent brewing up on ledges that are just big enough to sleep on… and walking across the icefields in a storm that at least had t...
Women Climbing: 200 Years of Achievement. Bill Birkett and Bill Peascod. A & C Black Publishers, Ltd., London, 1989 and The Mountaineers, Seattle, 1989.Birkett’s and Peascod’s book on the climbing achievements of women during the last 200 year...
Keketuohai or Koktokay lies in the southern Altai Range of China’s Xinjiang Province, close to the border with Mongolia and 600km north-northeast of Urumqi. For three years I have attempted to travel to the area on the recommendation of non-...
TABLE IIEd. Note: The astute reader will notice that the total number of accidents reported in Table I does not coincide with the number of accidents reported here for the current year. This is because some areas distinguish between the accidents ...
Washington, Cascades, Mt. Pilchuck—On June 20, following an early supper, Scoutmaster Dearborn gave permission to Eagle Scout Henry Bryan (15) and his 23 companions to do some exploring in the vicinity of their Heather Lake Campsite. During their ...
FALL ON ICE, CLIMBING UNROPEDCalifornia, Palisade GlacierI (L. Collett, age 39) was several feet from the top of a small glacier or ice field couloir. The ice was quite exposed with very little snow crust. The slope was approximately 50 degrees. I...