Ganesh Himal. The Englishman J. Wallace, accompanied only by two Sherpas, made the second ascent of Ganesh (24,300 feet) on May 31. The first ascent was made by Raymond Lambert, Mme. Claude Kogan and Eric Gauchat in October, 1955.
Annapurna, Pre-Monsoon Attempts. There were two unsuccessful expeditions that attempted the Dutch route on the north face of Annapurna. Austrian Arthur Haid led five Austrians and a German, who reached 5900 meters on April 21. Ralf Dujmovits guide...
Mount Huntington from the West. A six-man Japanese expedition led by Masao Yoshida climbed Mount Huntington by the Harvard route. This is the third time that route has been climbed. They began on May 3 and reached the summit on May 30. Their origi...
Rocky Mountain National Park (2)—On August 13, 1954, Mrs. Leahdell Dick (21) climbed to the top of Hallett’s Peak and planned to come down Andrews Glacier. She mistook a snowfield between Hallett and Otis Peaks for the glacier. This snowfield is t...
Sister Superior, Castle Valley area, Black Sabbath. The first free ascent of the north face of Sister Superior (III 5.11, four pitches, 330 feet) was made by Eric Decaria and Brad Barlage, November 18-19.Eric Bjørnstad
Mount Kinabalu, Lows Gully, First Ascent. Pep Soldevila, Carles Albesa, Xavier Fernández, and Xavier Vilella made the first ascent of Lows Gully via the route La Alquimista (A3 6b, 800m). One A3 pitch was free climbed at 7b by the second. Further ...
Kun Attempt. A Colorado Mountain Club group attempted to climb Kun by the northeast ridge. Dick Dietz, Kent Groninger, Cathleen Richards and I left Kargil on June 11. The road was passable by truck only to near Parkachik. On June 12, we rigged a p...
Broad Peak, west face; Gasherbrum I, southwest face. Viktor Afanasiev and Valery Babanov completed an alpine- style new route on the central buttress of 8,047m Broad Peak’s west face (3,000m, ED VI WI5 M6 90°). They joined the west ridge route at ...
The Needles, Voodoo Dome, White Punks on Dope. On the left of the south side of Voodoo Dome, the major expanse of rock meets a jumbled, somewhat vegetated area and forms a large, left-facing dihedral/ chimney several hundred feet high. Around the ...
ROCKFALL, LATE STARTAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount LefroyA party of two left Abbot Pass hut at 0900, August 14, 1994, to climb the snow and ice gullies of the standard West Face route on Mt. Lefroy (3423 meters). Partway up the route, a large roc...
Namcha Barwa Attempt and Tragedy. What is doubtless the highest unclimbed main peak in the world, Namcha Barwa (7782 meters, 25,520 feet) was attempted by a joint Japanese-Chinese expedition from the Japanese Alpine Club and the Chinese Mountainee...
Mount Logan. From June 13 to June 29 Ron Johnson, Don Mech, Len Waller, Lee West, Hal Williams and I made an ascent of Mount Logan. Jack Wilson flew the party from Gulkana Airfield in Alaska via May Creek to near Base Camp at 8950 feet on the Quin...
Cerro Lavadero, First Ascent, and Subsidiary Summits. On December 12, 1994, two groups (Italians Toni Mastellano, Franco Cremonese and two companions, Argentines Antonio Beorchia Nigris, Edgardo Yacante, Luis Gómez Crovetto, Gringo Aviedo, Pedro R...
“Soarks,” Flatirons. Pat Ament and I climbed a new route on the ridge just south of the Third Flatiron. It is an overhanging pinnacle surrounded at the base by poison ivy. The climb was done on July 4 and originally called “Sparks.” A report in Mo...
Antizana Sur. Two Ecuadorians, Rómulo Pazmino and Leonardo Droira, and I made the first ascent of Antizana Sur (18,275 feet) in the Cordillera Oriental. We attempted the peak three times, reaching on the second attempt a point 100 feet below the s...
FALL ON SNOW, UNABLE TO SELF-ARREST, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT—NO ICE AXE Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Garnet CanyonOn June 11, 1994, Artur Kruk (31) and Iri Krol (33) were descending steep snow near Spalding Falls when Krol slipped and fell app...
Mount Moran, Northwest Ridge. This ridge lies just west of the Triple Glacier Route and was first climbed on July 17, 1977 by Paul Horton and Lew Hitchner. Although it is a major feature of the mountain, the climbing was not difficult and the rock...
Chicago Mountaineering Club. The club conducted a greater than usual number of local outings during the year. In addition, members climbed almost every weekend throughout the year on unscheduled trips, and traveled as far as Seneca Rock, West Virg...
FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED OUT, INADEQUATE PROTECTIONWest Virginia, Seneca Rocks, PruneJohn Markwell, owner of the Gendarme Climbing Shop at Seneca Rocks, reported that there had only been one severe accident there this year. On the second pi...
Tuttle Creek Obelisk, School’s Out. In June Brent Norum and I established the second route on this striking pillar. Starting a short distance right of the Rowell-Jones route, ascend a right-slanting ramp for 200 feet to the base of a large corner....