RAPPEL FAILURE, STRANDED, INEXPERIENCECalifornia, Yosemite ValleyOn September 25, 1981 at 3:15 p.m., Rangers Dill, Durr and Reilly responded to a report that Noel Dupre La Tour (27) was stranded at the top of the first pitch of the West Face route...
FALL ON ROCK, NO HARD HATCalifornia, Yosemite National Park, Tuolumne MeadowsOn August 12, Chris Weeldreyer (36) was leading the first pitch (5.9+) of Needle Spoon, a face climb on Pywiack Dome in Tuolumne Meadows, belayed by Henry Cutler. Near th...
JOHN BUCHAN, LORD TWEEDSMUIR (1875-1940)He had so many interests and activities that it is hard to picture him as one man. But to see him as he saw himself, at daybreak, “high up in a snow ridge when the world seems to heave itself out of night in...
Mountaineering in Mongolia Edward R. WebsterIt’s A COMBINATION OF MONT Blanc and Scotland with the remoteness of the Himalaya,” mused Julian Freeman-Attwood upon our first sighting of Mongolia’s Taban Bogdo mountains. After five plane rides, two s...
ALFRED EDGAR ROOVERS 1911-1934On December 15th, 1934, Alfred Roovers was killed in a fall from the cliff at Arden, New York. His serious mountaineering began only three years ago, but in that short period he had made an excellent record of climbs....
Doug Leen, Roger Johnson and I camped in Penrose Canyon, as advised in Bonney’s guide, and then set out on July 21 to climb the hitherto untouched east face, the longest on the peak, which is probably the most difficult summit between Cloud Peak...
THE CANADIAN ROCKY MOUNTAINSBY Professor Charles E. FayI. Physical CharacteristicsQUITE different task awaited the writer of the second issue of Alpina Americana from that so successfully accomplished by the author of the initial number. The High ...
Black Canyon, various activity. In late April Chip Chace and I linked the opening pitches of the Dylan Wall (IV+ 5.12-) with Charm School Boutique (IV+ 5.13- R) to create the hybrid route Hard Rain, completing what Topher Donahue had referred to i...
Mount Moroni, East Face, Zion National Park. In April, Les Ellison and I climbed a new route on the east face of Mount Moroni. We ascended the steep, blank section of the face which lies between two major chimney systems. The face may be easily se...
Peaks Climbed by the India-Tibet Border Police. For some years the India-Tibet Border Police has been climbing in the Himalaya but they have generally kept from announcing what they have done. Although a few have appeared in print, for the first t...
Southern Wind River Range, New Routes. The Iowa Mountaineers held a mountain camp for 58 members, based at a large meadow beside Clear Lake, in the southern Wind Rivers from August 11 to 22. Eight major peaks were ascended; a number of new routes ...
This is the twentieth report of the Safety Committee and the seventh in conjunction with the Alpine Club of Canada. Data from such accidents that occurred in former years and not previously reported have been incorporated in the statistical tables...
Where in Alaska would two Swiss go to climb but Little Switzerland? On May 16 Lucas Iten and I landed on the Pika Glacier and quickly got to work. Most of the rock was still covered in snow, but we warmed up by repeating The Lost Marsupials (10 ...
Mount Stone, Conrad Group. This attractive 9990-foot snow peak southwest of Mount Conrad, previously unclimbed, was the goal of our group from the Simian Climbing Club (Laura Jasch, Bill Knowler, Gretchen Schoenbohm, and Curt Wagner). From Boulder...
STRANDED, PARTY SEPARATED, WEATHERBritish Columbia, Yoho National Park, Lake O'Hara, Mount BiddleOn August 8, a party of six climbers headed to the West Ridge of Mount Biddle, a 5.4 alpine rock route on the Lake O’Hara area of Yoho National Park. ...
Bugaboo Provincial Park Mountaineering summary and statistics. The 2001 Bugaboo season was blessed with good weather but not many new routes. Rather, a number of older classics were dusted off. Early July saw an attempt at the completion of an aid...
PATRICK DAVID CHAMAY1937-1968Patrick D. Chamay became ill while on a climb of Mount Rainier and died at 13,000 feet on Liberty Ridge. Symptoms indicated his illness was pulmonary edema.Born in France, Pat lived most of his life in the United State...
ROBERT LYON SPURR 1937 - 1995My father, Robert Lyon Spurr, Alaskan mountaineer and mountain runner, was killed on North Maroon Peak outside Aspen, Colorado, on August 11. He apparently lost his footing shortly after beginning his descent and fell ...
United States: Once again there were too many reports of rappel errors (ten) and lowering errors (five). The tragedy of the year was the loss of Todd Skinner, who fell to his death after his harness loop parted while he was rappelling in Yosemite ...
The discerning reader will note that relatively little information on 8000-meter peaks is recorded in the 1999 volume. This is not indicative of a fall-off in the amount of activity on the world’s highest mountains; as with other disciplines of cl...