Makalu Attempt. A French expedition led by Yves Estienne had as members Rémi Roux, Jean-Pierre Viallet, Jean-Pierre Maissent, Jean-Marc Peltier, Jean- Claude Cartier, Christian Legay, Giuseppe Fournier and Jacques Germain. They were stopped by hig...
Iran. A group of French and Iranian climbers under the leadership of our member Bernard Pierre explored and climbed in the Elburz range. They made several first ascents, including the relatively easy east ridge of Demavend (18,605 feet), which was...
Huayna Potosí, Mururata, Sajama. In June of 1972 the French guides Anselme Baud, Thierry Cardon and Bruno Richard made three new routes: Huayna Potosí by the southwest face1, 3000 feet of very hard ice; Mururata by the southeast spur, 3000 feet of...
Annapurna Attempt. Six Britons, American Richard Nowack and New Zealander Lester Gray, led by Mal Duff, plus two Sherpas, spent three weeks on the north face of Annapurna, making Camps I and II in snow caves and Camp III at 6500 meters at the top ...
Pik Kommunizma. Our 11-member team was composed of Scott Fisher, leader, Wes Krause, Stacey Allison, George Schunk, Brad Udall, Steve Manfredo, Mike Carr, Liz Nichol, Maggie Fox, George Kahrl, and me. Leaving Moscow at midnight, we arrived at the ...
Austvagoy Island, Vagakallen, second ascent of Freya. Dusan Janak and I arrived on the island of Austvagoy hoping to climb on the big north face of Vagakallen (942m). We were welcomed by six days of perfect weather and made the second ascent of Fr...
Menhir, Auyuittuq National Park, Baffin Island. Though somewhat thwarted by bad weather, we managed to do a new route on Menhir, the prominent triangular peak directly behind the Thor Shelter. On August 10, we climbed a snow gully that leads to th...
FALL ON ROCK, PRE-EXISTING CONDITIONColorado, Eldorado Canyon State Park, Redgarden WallOn Saturday, September 25 Maria Petzolt (26) dislocated her shoulder unexpectedly while pulling on a hold on the fourth pitch of Ruper (5.8), a 6-pitch route o...
California, Mt. Ralston—On January 1, 1955, Allen Steck (28), Richard Houston, William Dunmire, and Kenneth D. Adam set out for a ski ascent of Mt. Ralston from Echo Lake, above Tahoe. Plans to attempt Pyramid Peak were cancelled because of a rece...
Traverse of the Lisburne Peninsula. In June, 1995, the traverse of the Lisburne Peninsula was accomplished across the spine of the western Brooks Range descending the Ipewik River to Point Hope. This is the westernmost reach of the American Arctic...
Sneffels SectionBlaine Peak (12,800 ± ft.) was ascended by the east face. This easy climb was made by T. M. Griffiths, L. V Giesecke, B. M. Souder and the writer.Aiguille Number One (12,900 ± ft.) was first ascended by T. M. Griffiths, L. V. Giese...
Nanga Parbat, Rupal Face Attempt, Schell Route. A team of three New Zealanders, an Australian and four Britons was led by New Zealander Guy Halliburton. They were unsuccessful because of excessive powder snow. On May 15, they established Base Camp...
FALL ON ROCK AND PITON FAILURE.—Alberta, Rocky Mountains Frontal Range, Yamnuska. Jim Bay and Dan Griffiths were climbing the Direttissi- ma on July 1, 1976, and Jim who was leading slipped and fell about 30 feet. His top protection, a soft iron p...
Americans back from Nepal. The Nepal expedition led by Dr. Dillon Ripley, of New Haven, and sponsored by Yale University, the National Geographic Society and the Smithsonian Institution, returned to this country with some fine long-range photograp...
Mountaineering Dogs. In addition to those already cited, (A. A. J. ii, 553; iii, 113), Mlle. C. E. Engel would add Lutine, the pet of Major Rogers (Le Major Roger et son barometre, A. A. J. ii, 542), who climbed the Chenalette in 1833 and, a few w...
Ranrapalca, North Face, Attempt. Andrej Markovic and Matej Zorko climbed a line (1000 meters, ED- V 85°) on Ranrapalca (6128 m), in 16 hours on June 6. Most of the route is on snow/ice with a few rock moves. They spent the night 30 meters below th...
Mountaineering Club of Alaska. The Mountaineering Club of Alaska had approximately 600 members in 2001. The club held monthly meetings that featured slide shows on Mt. Everest, exploring the Talkeetna Mountains, Wood Tikchik State Park, Mt. Blackb...
Mt. Helen. A new ascent by the steep N.W. ridge was made by Hans Kraus and Roger Wolcott on 4 August 1946, from a camp on Upper Titcomb Lake. This ridge seen in profile is high and precipitous. The route was reported as grade five in difficulty.A ...
American Safe Climbing Association, Activity Report. With a huge lift from the American Alpine Club, the American Safe Climbing Association started off its first year with a bang. During 1998, we reached our goal of replacing 1,000 bolts on popula...
OFF ROUTE, STRANDED, CLIMRING ALONE, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT/CLOTHING, EXCEEDING ABILITIESWyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Middle TetonOn the morning of September 29, Jenny Lake Subdistrict Ranger Mark Magnuson received a report of an overdue clim...