Campanile Esloveno, Cerro Catedral, Southeast Face. In February Argentines Gabriel Ruiz and Sebastián de la Cruz climbed a new very difficult route on the 500-foot-high granite spire, Campanile Esloveno of the Cerro Catedral above Bariloche. Their...
Quimsa Cruz, Various Ascents. The 1998 Scottish Bolivian Expedition (Tony Barton, leader; Ken Marsden, Tom Wiggins, Tony Hill, Russel Weedon, Dougie Bayne and John Miller) touched down at El Alto on June 7. After ascents in the Condoriri group (Ta...
King’s Canyon, Buck Rock. Old bolts give evidence of people climbing at Buck Rock for years. Below the lookout, there are some short, very overhanging faces. These short routes are both classics. Mowin’ the Yawn (5.10a), a candidate for the steepe...
El Toro, Huevos a la Mexicana. Rudy Salinas and Emilio Plasencia (both Mexican) and I opened this route, on the northeast face of El Toro in Potrero Chico, in extreme heat in August. We used Sendero Luminoso ledges as our base camp and could only ...
In mid-September, three other guys and I flew to Georgetown, Guyana. None of us knew each other before leaving. It was for a TV show, and I was asked to join at the 11th hour as a climbing guide. The goal was to find a way through the jungle to a ...
STRANDED, OFF ROUTE, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT–LEFT ROPES BEHINDCalifornia, Yosemite Valley National Park, Washington ColumnOn July 15, two climbers (22 and 20) were attempting to climb the Prow on Washington Column. They decided to retreat from the wa...
Memorials to Conrad Kain. On June 21st, 1936, a memorial tablet to this guide was unveiled at the foot of the Ochsenwand, Raxalpe, near Nasswald, Kain’s birthplace, under the auspices of Sektion Reichenau of the German-Austrian Alpine Club and the...
New Ascents in the Cascade Range. Early in the summer of 1955 two new climbs were undertaken in the Washington Pass area of the Methew Cascades. One, a new route of difficult standard, the southeast buttress of The Temple, on Kangaroo Ridge, was a...
A new route was done by Greg Thomsen and me on April 21, 1973. Awkward chimney pitches from the east gully lead to the uphill (north) notch. Starting slightly west is a textbook series of parallel cracks that lead to the summit in two pitches. The...
West Face of Kat Pinnacle. On April 2 Tom Frost and I forced a new route on Kat Pinnacle. This starts on the 110° north face and then follows hairline cracks on the west face to the summit. The entire climb was artificial and included a very diffi...
Broad Peak, Attempt and Tragedy. Eric Escoffier and Pascalle Bessieres (F) were last seen on the summit ridge of Broad Peak (8047m) on July 29 by Poitr Putzelnik and Ryszard Pawlowski, members of a Polish expedition. The two were climbing up to a ...
STRANDED, LATE START – BENIGHTED, INADEQUATE CLOTHING AND EQUIPMENT, WEATHERAlberta, Canadian Rockies, Mount NorquayOn October 24, two scramblers started up a difficult scramble on Mount Norquay in Banff National Park at 1300. They reached the rid...
Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta. In January 1957, at the same time that the English expedition under A. E. Cunningham was in the western end of this range (See AAJ 1957, pp. 161-163), our group, made up of Piero Ghiglione and Silvio Morra, Italians, ...
Tarke Kang (Glacier Dome) Attempt. Four English climbers led by Keith Foster attempted to climb Tarke Kang (7193 meters, 23,600 feet) by its south ridge. They got to a high point of 5800 meters on October 24.Elizabeth Hawley
FALLING ROCK, FALL ON ROCK, NO HARD HAT Wyoming, TetonsOn July 3, 1988, at 1000 Carl Detwyler (36) and Steve Glenn were climbing the route Armed Robbery on Cloudveil Dome. Detwyler was leading the third pitch when the one by two meter rock he was ...
High Sierra Country, by Oscar Lewis. 291 pages, map end-papers. Duell, Sloan and Pearce, New York; Little, Brown and Company, Boston, Toronto, 1954. Price $3.50.A glance at the title would lead one to believe that this book is about the alpine reg...
Jannu. The members of the Seijo University Jannu Expedition were Mikio Kawase, leader, Yukihiro Ichikawa, Eigi Yamada, Takeshi Naganuma, Jun Miyazaki, Sumio Azuma, Soji Obara, Koichiro Ohara and me. We followed the French route on the southwest (Y...
Pathibara (Pyramid) and Pathibara East (Sphynx). Our joint Indo-Japanese expedition climbed these two peaks for the first time from the Sikkimese side on the northeast. They lie some 12 kilometers north of Kangchenjunga. Swiss led by E. Wyss-Dunan...
Stanford Alpine Club. The Stanford Alpine Club continues to sponsor a program of weekly practice climbs to local outcroppings supplemented by week-end expeditions to Yosemite valley and other areas for more serious climbing. The program is designe...
The Balls, Tempest Dome, Plate Route. Bob Kamps and I climbed this three- or four-pitch route in August. Begin on the south face of the dome at an overhanging wall protected by one bolt. Colorful, solid rock covered with knobs and plates provides ...