Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Mahalangur Himal—Khumbu Section, Nampai Gosum I, South Summit

Nampai Gosum I, south summit. The Japan Workers Alpine Federation and the Nepal Mountaineering Association attempted to make the first ascent of Nampai Gosum. The joint expedition was organized to commemorate the 50th anniversary of the start of d...


Accident Reports ANAM
Loss of Control, Involuntary Glissade – Washiington, Big Four Mountain

LOSS OF CONTROL, INVOLUNTARY GLISSADE—Washington, Big Four Mountain. I was the leader on the July 9 climb which included six other climbers, three of whom were experienced and three of whom were basic students in the 1977 Everett Basic Climbing co...


Feature Article AAJ
Alpine Ascents in the American Press, 1785-1897

Alpine Ascents in the American Press, 1785-1897J. Monroe ThoringtonAlpine historians have taken little note of the fact that, from the end of the eighteenth century, when Mont Blanc became news, the American press was alert to European mountaineer...


Accident Tables ANAM
Reported Mountaineering Accidents, Table III

1951-101959-0420112011USACAN.USACAN.TerrainRock4735528103Snow246135549Ice282154River1530Unknown22100Ascent or DescentAscent3790587104Descent112337149Unknown256131Other N.B.1202Immediate CauseFall or slip on rock374529083Slip on snow or ice10712072...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Pacific Northwest, Attempts on the N. Face of Mt. Baring

Attempts on the N. Face of Mt. Baring. Seen in profile from the Stevens Pass Highway E. of Startup, the N. Face of Mt. Baring looks like an enormous overhang. It rises 3800 ft. above Barclay Lake, the starting point for the climb. Dick Burge and I...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, California - Sierra Nevada, The Incredible Hulk, West Face

The Incredible Hulk, West Face. Joe Kiskis, Bob Grow, and I converged once again on Twin Lakes to approach a climb at the head of Little Slide Canyon opposite the pinnacles that had diverted us on our first trip. We approached the Incredible Hulk ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Washington—Cascade Mountains, The Blockhouse, West Face

The Blockhouse, West Face. In early August Pat McNerthney and I climbed a route on this face in the Cashmere Crags. The route began on the left, climbed to a ledge with a tree, moved up and right, finishing up and left. (NCCS III, 5.10.) In late A...


Club Activities AAJ
Arizona Mountaineering Club

Arizona Mountaineering Club. In 1989 the club fielded 72 outings including 53 climbing trips with climbs averaging a 5.7 rating. Seven of the outings were to adjacent states. Successful ascents were made of Pik Lenin in the Soviet Pamirs, Prusik P...


Book Reviews AAJ
Explorers of the Infinite: The Secret Spiritual Lives of Extreme Athletes—and What They Reveal About Near-Death Experiences, Psychic Communication, and Touching the Beyond

Explorers of the Infinite: The Secret Spiritual Lives of Extreme Athletes—and What They Reveal About Near-Death Experiences, Psychic Communication, and Touching the Beyond. Maria Coffey. New York: Jeremy P. Tarcher/Penguin, 2008. Hardcover 288 pag...


Feature Article AAJ
A Calling: Cayesh Peru, Cordillera Blanca

NEVADO CAYESH IS a pinnacle in the Peruvian Andes. The name itself is derived from the Quechua word caye, meaning “to call,” and indeed for me it did just that. Described by John Ricker as “possibly the most spectacular peak in the Cordillera Blan...

| Published 1986 | Author Jerry Gore


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Manaslu, Ascent and Tragedy

Manaslu, Ascent and Tragedy. Michael Zunk went to the 8163-meter summit of Manaslu on May 7 with teammates Joerg Bartock and Steffen Thomas as part of an 11-member German expedition led by Holger Kloss. On the descent, Zunk fell for unknown reason...


Feature Article AAJ
Rock Climbing in 1984

Rock Climbing in 1984John StannardIN retrospect the winter of 70-71 was a very desperate time for it was then that most climbers realized that rock climbing in this country was in a very bad way and liable to get much worse. For people accustomed ...


In Memoriam AAJ
M. Albert Linton, 1887-1966

M. ALBERT LINTON1887-1966The Philadelphia group of the American Alpine Club lost one of its most distinguishd members with the death of M. Albert Linton on Monday, May 2, 1966 at his home in Moorestown, New Jersey at the age of 79.He was graduated...


Book Reviews AAJ
In Brief: Notes from the Banff Mountain Book Festival 2004

In Brief: Notes from the Banff Mountain Book Festival 2004Twelve years ago North America launched its first mountain literature event: the Banff Mountain Book Festival. Each November the festival celebrates the world’s best mountain and adventure ...


In Memoriam AAJ
Steven Craig Risse, 1952-1993

STEVEN CRAIG RISSE1952-1993Seattle-area climber, Steven Craig Risse, with Mark Bebie and Thomas Waarsdorp, died in late March in an attempt to climb Slipstream, an ice route near the Columbia Icefields. The exact cause of their death is unknown.St...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Wyoming, Mountaineering Notes from the Grand Teton National Park

Easily the most noteworthy of the five ascents of the Grand Teton (13,747 ft.) made during the first season of the park (1929) was that via the east ridge, on July 22, by Kenneth A. Henderson and Robert L. M. Underhill, who thus were first to demo...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Wyoming—Tetons, Grand Teton, North Face Variation

Grand Teton, North Face Variation. It has been clear to several climbers for several years that the few existing routes and variations on the north side of the Grand Teton did not exhaust the logical possibilities of this famous wall. By studying ...


Feature Article AAJ
Cariboo Climbing

Cariboo ClimbingSterling Hendricks and Andrew John Kauffman, 2ndTHE seldom visited Cariboos are one of the most northerly and extensive mountain chains of interior British Columbia. They are also known — perhaps officially — as the McLennan Range,...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Peru, Other Ranges, Salcantay and Soray, Cordillera Vilcabamba, and Huascarán, Pisco, and Yanapaccha Norte, Cordillera Blanca

Salcantay and Soray, Cordillera Vilcabamba, and Huascarán, Pisco, and Yanapaccha Norte, Cordillera Blanca. The Aichiken Mountaineering Association expedition was led by Yukihiko Kato. Other members were Hideo Kato, Hitoo Makino, Isao Asahi, Noriak...


Book Reviews AAJ
The Wall: A Thriller

The Wall: A Thriller. Jeff Long. New York: Simon and Schuster, 2006. 294 pages. $24.00.Midway through their lives’ journeys, two former Camp 4 dirtbags, Hugh and Lewis, find themselves in a dark wood at the base of El Cap; the forests and walls of...