Rock Climbs of the Sierra East Side. Alan Bartlett and Errett Allen. Chockstone Press, Denver, 1988. 170 pages. Photos, topos, maps. $14.95Until recently, information on rock climbing in the Eastern Sierra has been very sketchy. Unless you happene...
Baden Sar (5,455tn), first ascent; Constanzia Sar (5,902m), first ascent; Har Sar (6,082m), attempt. As coleader of the Baden-Saxon Pamir-Karakoram Expedition 2007, which was supported by the DAV, I had the opportunity to spend time in the region ...
FALL ON ICE, UNABLE TO SELF-ARRESTOregon, North Sister, Thayer GlacierOn August 14,1993, Erinn Broszman (22) slid 400 feet down the side of a steep Central Oregon glacier. She died of her injuries before Deschutes County Search and Rescue voluntee...
Peaks on Duchaylard and Anvers Islands. Our team sailed on January 10, 1994 on the 55-foot sailing vessel Pelagic, owned and captained by experienced American Skip Novak, and made a 2900-kilometer round-trip from Ushuaia in Tierra del Fuego to the...
Himalayan veteran Osamu Tanabe led an eight-member Shinshu University Alpine Club expedition to Himlung Himal (7,126m) and Nemjung. On October 14 Shin Egawa, Nobusuka Oki, Tokihiro Takizawa, and Jaya Prakesh Rai reached the summit of Himlung via t...
FALL WHILE BOULDERING, EXCEEDED ABILITIES—Colorado, Mt. Evans. Thomas Gibbon (18) was bouldering on the steep north face of Mt. Evans when he lost his footing and fell to his death. (Source: Henry Ledyard, Alpine Rescue Team)Analysis: Gibbon was, ...
STRANDED, DARKNESS—LATE START, OFF ROUTE, INADEQUATE CLOTHING, CREATING A HAZARDOUS CONDITIONCalifornia, Yosemite Valley, Fairview DomeOn August 9, about 1100, Bill Ott (47) and Hugo Orellana (24) began climbing the Regular Route (III-IV 5.9) on F...
Mt. Grosvenor, first ascent. Our original plan had been to attempt Chomolhari, but we ran into problems when we discovered that a joint exercise was taking place between Chinese and Bhutanese military forces down in Yadong County. Not even Chinese...
The McNeill-Nott Memorial RouteA new line on the south face of Mt. Foraker.Will MayoWas the sky falling? The serac had avalanched with a vicious cacophony. The moment was surreal: the mind trying to recognize the cause of the roar, the delay betwe...
The HimalayaObservations from the roof of the worldAndrej Štremfelj, Slovenia translated by Ana PercicFrom its inception, alpinism has gone through different periods of development. Various factors influenced that development; in the beginning, th...
Northern Sikkim, Chomoyummo, attempt and accident. In September the Indian Mountaineering Foundation (IMF) organized a high-profile expedition to Chomoyummo (6,829m) on the Tibet border. The nine-member team was led by the hugely experienced Dr. P...
Yogishwar Attempt and Ascent of Saife. A 5-man Spanish team led by Fernando Navarro approached from the Shyamvarna Glacier and established camp on the south ridge of Yogishwar (6678 meters, 21,910 feet). However, in late September they encountered...
El Mocho, Various Ascents. The Goulotte Grassi was repeated by two French teams (B. Sourzac-L. Monnoyeur. and Pierre Mahenc-J.P. Tremblai, both on November 26) that profited from good ice conditions early in the season. The Voie des Benitiers also...
Tetons: (I) Symmetry Spire, St. John Massif. In mid-June 1947, a climber, Hans Breu, was making an attempt on one of the cliffs in this district with a companion, George Senner. Breu decided to climb a more difficult pitch than his companion felt ...
Latok Attempt. Benden Murphy and I made two alpine-style attempts on the Lowe route on Latok’s north ridge between long spells of heavy snow. On September 4, our first attempt ended after a day of climbing and a bivouac at 5300 meters when snow be...
West Temple, Back Where it All Begins. On April 10, John Rzyczecki and I started a new route on the southeast face of the West Temple. The route, Back Where it All Begins (VI 5.1 la A3), follows the obvious diagonal line up the center of the wall ...
In the autumn a party of climbers made four ascents in the Qungmo Kangri group at the southwestern end of Nyanchen Tanglha. They first tried the lower of two peaks referred to as Dhungri by nomads. This peak is generally known as Tangmonja and was...
Baruntse. The seven-man Chiba University expedition was led by Hideaki Yoshinaga. They climbed the southeast ridge, the same route as used by the New Zealanders in 1954 and the Japanese last autumn and winter. After establishing four camps above B...
Mt. Blackburn, New Route, Previously Unreported. In May, 1998, Franz Mueter, Martin Truffer, and I walked in from the McCarthy Road to the Kuskalana Glacier, then up to a camp at about 5,000 feet beneath the west face of Mt. Blackburn. From there,...
Lost Horizon, first free ascent. On January 29 Ty Mack and I made the first free ascent of the stunning Lost Horizon route, located in Lost Canyon in Sedona, AZ. Lost Horizon follows an impeccable corner system for four long pitches. The climbing ...