Gangapurna. A second Japanese expedition to Gangapurna was from the Nagano Mountaineering Association and led by Kiyoshi Shimizu. They came from the south via the Kodi Khola and Sanctuary and climbed the west ridge. On October 15, Shimizu, Takeshi...
Cerro San Gabriel (3,125m), northeast ridge; La Pala (3,647m), east face; Cerro Bello (5,239m), west face. In September Christian Quezada, Jaime Wastavino, and I, from the Grupo de Alta Montana of the Perros Alpinos, traveled to Cerro San Gabriel,...
FALL ON ROCK, NO HELMET Quebec, Gatineau Park, Western CwmOn October 8, 1989, Steve Adcock (32) was leading an attempt on a new route. He had just completed the crux of the route, estimated at 5.10, and moved onto an easier section, about 5.4, whe...
Cerro Olivares Sur, First Ascent. A 5850-meter ( 19,193-foot) mountain was discovered during one of my many forays into the high country west of the city of San Juan. It belongs to the long ridge of the Cerros Olivares. Dr. Franco Cremonese, gover...
The Mazamas. The Climbing Committee, chaired by Susan Pyle Erickson, scheduled 288 climbs, which included 41 Basic School climbs, 23 winter climbs, 19 Explorer Post climbs, and six Ski Mountaineering climbs. The usual surly Northwest weather cause...
WELDON FAIRBANKS HEALD 1901–1967Weldon Heald was an ardent lover of mountains; not as a field for prowess, but for the beauty and inspiration he found in them. He was a capable climber and was able to reach summits where he could breathe the air o...
Lao Ding Shan and Mt. Desio, First Ascents, and Exploration of the Chinese Karakoram. It was an article by Kurt Diemberger in the 1995 volume of this journal that first inspired me to organize an expedition to the Chinese Karakoram. When I called ...
Fitz Roy, El Flaco con Domingo. On January 26,2008, I met Crystal Davis-Robbins; we were both without partners, and the weather continued to blow everyone’s mind. I felt like I needed more rest, but there was no time for that.We ran into Freddie W...
Exploration and Mountaineering in Northeast GreenlandN. E. OdellIT was merely the partial fulfilment of a longstanding desire to visit Greenland and especially its relatively inaccessible eastern side, that gave an unusual quality of joy to our de...
Climber’s Guide to Yosemite Valley, by Steve Roper. San Francisco: Sierra Club, 1971. 305 pages, 16 photographs, $6.95 This is a textbook example of how a guidebook should be done. It is without a doubt the finest guidebook in America. Roper has c...
Russian Style on ChangabangA convergence of cultures in the Garhwal Himalayaby Carlos BuhlerIn the spring of 1981, I received a letter from Dane Bums. It contained a variety of xeroxed photos from different magazines and journals showing the south...
Pakistan, 2003 overview. Approximately 54 expeditions took up permits for peaks over 6,500m. Mountains below this altitude are now exempt from royalty fees, though not from trekking and Sirdar fees for those situated in restricted areas. Despite t...
Arctic Bibliography: Prepared for and in cooperation with the Department of Defense under the direction of the Arctic Institute of North America. Four Volumes (to date). (Obtainable from the Superintendent of Documents, Washington 25, D. C.), 1953...
Everest, Southwest Face Attempt. The huge, steep southwest face of Everest has been successfully scaled by only three expeditions. This autumn, a team led by Ukrainian Mikhail Turkevich, who had already climbed the face in 1982, was composed of te...
Inspired by the 2010 Anglo-American expedition (AAJ 2011), Richard Tremellen and I set off in July for the remarkably unexplored Djangart region. The highest summit, Pik 5,318m, presented the most obvious goal. Alas, it remains unclimbed. However,...
Shall We Take a Drill?The riddle of style in the Cordillera BlancaLeo Houlding, United KingdomShall we take a drill?” I asked tentatively.With only a few days left before Patch and Neil were due to leave, this was the last time we would see each o...
Pik Pobeda, first solo traverse. From August 16-23 Gleb Solokov made the first solo traverse of Pik Pobeda (7,439m) from the Chon-Toren Pass in the east to the Dikiy Pass in the west. [This traverse was first completed in 1970 by Riabukhin’s exped...
The Mountaineers. Climbing in 1956 took members of The Mountaineers to peaks from the Sierra Nevada to Mount McKinley. Its climbing committees in Seattle, Tacoma, and Everett programmed ascents of some 75 peaks in our Cascade and Olympic mountains...
TABLE III1951-901959-9019911991USACAN.USACAN.TerrainRock282034310511Snow1782270537Ice13660152River12300Unknown21610Ascent or DescentAscent251335412111Descent1605243479Unknown240110Immediate CauseFall or slip on rock1837175598Slip on snow or ice638...
FALL ON ROCK, OFF-ROUTENorth Carolina, Blue Ridge Parkway, ShiprockThe three of us had been climbing since late morning on September 4. It was now early evening and two of us decided to try an unnamed route described to us by a climber we met on o...