Annapurna and Dhaulagiri Climbed by Tibetans. On standard routes were the first Tibetans and first of any Chinese, on a climbing venture outside China. Their team, called the “China Tibetan Expedition to the 14 Mountains above 8000 Meters in the W...
History of the Great Mountaineering Adventures. Stefano Ardito. Seattle: The Mountaineers, 2000. 490 color photos, 200 black-and-white photos, 8 color maps, 50 illustrations. 320 pages. $48.00.When this book arrived in a box that measured eight by...
FALL ON ROCK, RAPPEL ERROR - NO KNOT ON ROPE END, NO HARD HAT, INEXPERIENCEColorado, Eldorado Canyon State ParkDuring the afternoon of December 17, Dalton Jones (18) and his female partner (17) were climbing Rewritten (5.7), a six-pitch climb on t...
Debsa Valley, Peak 6,135m (Ramabang). Paulie Mitchell, Darach O’Murchu, Craig Scarlett, and I, all from Ireland, traveled to India on our first Himalayan expedition to attempt the first ascent of the attractive Peak 6,135m (N 31°57'30", E77°53'10"...
Rassemblement International, Chamonix. The Fédération Française de la Montagne, governing body for the official aspects of mountaineering in France, organized for this past summer, an international meeting of mountaineers. The most prominent climb...
This section is the result of cooperation on the part of many people in addition to the Editorial Board. We give our great thanks to all who have helped us. It would be impossible to mention all of them, but we owe special gratitude to Dr. Adolf D...
Oregon, Mt. Hood—On July 29, 1956 two groups of American Youth Hostel climbers totaling 18 persons climbed Mt. Hood with one guide. This occurred because both groups arrived in Portland at about the same time and hoped to climb Mt. Hood. The usual...
CRAIG MORRIS MERRIHUE1933 - 1965On March 14th, 1965, Craig Merrihue, along with his climbing partner Dan Doody, was tragically killed in a long fall in Mount Washington's Huntington Ravine in New Hampshire. They had nearly completed the Pinnacle G...
STRANDED, INADEQUATE BELAY, HAIR CAUGHT IN RAPPEL DEVICE, INEXPERIENCE Arizona, Camelback MountainTracy Hemphill (19), who said she had gone rock climbing only once before, was rappelling down a rock face on Camelback Mountain about 0930 on Januar...
The Basic Essentials of Hypothermia. William W. Forgey. ICS Books, Merrillville, Indiana, 1991. 68 pages, many diagrams and tables. This book is one of the Basic Essentials Series of 24 outdoor volumes, written to provide the average outdoor perso...
Ibsti Kangri (6,340m), southeast face; Dzo Jongo, east (6,200m) and west (6,265m) summits. We had initially hoped to attempt a peak in Ladakh’s Angtung Valley, but due to bureaucratic difficulties in obtaining mountaineering visas for our American...
This is the twelfth annual report of the safety committee of the American Alpine Club. Only those accidents which occurred in the United States of America are included. No additional accidents from previous years have been brought to the attention...
North to Everest EASTERN NEPAL, 1950Elizabeth S. CowlesIT was a lucky thing for all of us that the request Oscar Houston made in 1949 for permission to visit Katmandu and the main valley of Nepal had not been granted. In the interval between that ...
16' FALL INTO CREVASSE—WITH WATER AT THE BOTTOM, UNABLE TO EXTRICATE—INADEQUATE PEOPLE POWER, HYPOTHERMIA Alaska, Mount McKinley, West ButtressOn June 21, a guided party, led by guides Chris Morris and Stacy Taniguchi flew onto the Kahiltna Glacie...
Two New Yosemite RoutesGalen RowellThe master builder chose for a tool, not the earthquake nor lightning to rend and split asunder, but the tender snowflowers falling noiselessly through unnumbered seasons, – the offspring of the sun and the sea. ...
Jannu (Kumbhakarna), east face attempt and history. Jannu, also known as Kumbhakarna, not far from Kangchenjunga, has a forbiddingly precipitous east face, which Slovenians seem to have become obsessively determined to scale. Its main summit is 7,...
A Survey of the Ghondokoro and Chogolisa Glacier Area in the Karakoram RangeJohn F. NoxonA mong several objectives of the 1955 Harvard Karakoram Expedition was that of exploring and possibly mapping two glacier systems, the Ghondokoro and Chogolis...
Saskatchewan Glacier. During the summer of 1942, U. S. Army training and equipment-testing forces constructed a road from the Lake Louise-Jasper highway to the tongue of the Saskatchewan Glacier, thence up the glacier to the head of Cattleguard Va...
Canada: I would like to start by thanking Geoff Powter for compiling the Canadian incidents for the 1998 edition. He took this project on in addition to his good work in editing the Canadian Alpine Journal. There were fewer accidents in 1998 than ...
A Look into the Future, Lhotse’s South FaceTomo Cesen, Planinska Zveza Slovenje, Yugoslavia Translated by Maja KošakWHEN I GOT HOME after last year’s climb of Kumbhakarna’s north face, the mountaineering press was highly complimentary, calling the...