This is the forty-fourth issue of Accidents in North American Mountaineering and the thirteenth that has been done jointly by the American Alpine Club and The Alpine Club of Canada.Canada: Several of the accidents in 1990 involved solo climbers, t...
Once Around EverestNed GilletteEVEREST, the “third pole”, is still the ultimate lodestone for most mountaineers. While climbers are seeking new ways to gain the summit, Jan Reynolds and I decided to put a different twist into our expedition to the...
Trono Blanco, Hoja de Rosa; Cuerno Norte, Dentelle de Roche; Cerro Cat- edral, Escoba de Dios, second ascent. In late February and March 2007 a team from the Equipe National de Jeunes Alpinistes (ENJA) visited the Valle del Frances in the heart of...
As with any expedition to a super-remote corner of the world, our expedition to Baffin Island forces us to keep the fear factor in check. This isn’t proving to be easy. Fear is an emotion that can all too often become all- consuming, coursing th...
Pt. 5919m and Pt. 5447m, First Ascents. Between May 18 and June 1, a British party explored the unclimbed Panpatia range of peaks to the south of Nilkanth. The range, known as the Vishnu Ghar (Vishnu’s Fortress), is approached by a two-day trek fr...
Mount Waddington from the North. From July 18 to August 3, Mike Warburton and I traversed the Coast Range from east to west via the Tiedemann and Franklin Glaciers and climbed the north ridge of Mount Waddington by a new route. We approached the r...
Eastern Zaalayskiy Range, Pik Alexander Gybaev. On July 24, 2008, a group of climbers associated with the Moscow Aviation Institute made the first ascent of Pik 5,368m in the Eastern Zaalayskiy Range. This peak is the highest point of a sub-range ...
Changtse. We were R. Turner, G. Nash, D. Hunter, C. Gordon, J. Smart and I as leader. We established Base Camp at 5100 meters on September 5. Camps I and II were at the traditional sites on the East Rongbuk Glacier at 5400 and 5800 meters. Advance...
A New Season In YosemiteThe Big Walls, Then And NowBy Ryan and Tom FrostRyanInever knew my father.Now that I’ve grabbed you with that shameless headline, let me qualify it. My father is Tom Frost, but when I was young, that meant nothing to me. He...
Lady Momo. Outer Sognefjord and Hoyanger provide a spectacular destination for ice climbing (Sognefjord is the largest fjord in Norway). In some winters, when the ice conditions are good, you can climb with a view over the open sea. There is a 600...
Chaudhara. On June 8, leader S.N. Dhar, Rabin Paul and Lhakpa Tsering Sherpa reached the summit of Chaudhara (6510 meters, 21,360 feet). This was probably the second ascent. We had set up three higher camps. We climbed the west face. The other mem...
FALLING ROCK-DISLODGED BY CLIMBER, OFF ROUTE, BENIGHTED, EXCEEDING ABILITIESWyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Mount OwenOn August 29 at 1300, I received a report via park dispatch that a climbing party on Serendipity Arete (Mount Owen) reported ...
First Ascents in the Canadian Rockies. The crumbling limestone towers of Aiguille Peak (9840 feet) rise above the Banff-Jasper Highway, west of the Mistaya. Dr. J. Monroe Thorington visited the headwaters of North Ebon Creek, southwest of Aiguille...
Pik Sabor, new route attempt and repeat of north ridge. In 2003 the Groupe Militaire de Haute Montagne suffered a tragic loss when two well-known members, Antoine de Choudens and Philippe Renard, were killed while acclimatizing for an alpine style...
Cerro Kishtwar Attempt. Our team consisted of Andy Perkins, Brendan Murphy, David Cosford, Duncan Hornby, Jeremy Wilson, Kevin Dougherty and me. We managed the singular feat of never, before, during or after, actually being all in one place at the...
An Ice Ax, A Camera, and A Jar of Peanut Butter. Ira Spring. The Mountaineers Books: Seattle, 1998. 283 photos. 240 pages. $24.95.In 1930, the Eastman Kodak Company’s Centennial Celebration gift to all 12-year-olds was a Kodak Box Brownie camera. ...
FALL ON ROCK – RAPPEL ERROR (NO KNOT IN END OF ROPE), DISTRACTION, HASTE, WEATHER, DARKNESSNew Mexico, Los Alamos, White RockIt must have been a nightmare. Seriously, I don’t do that. I know better. Way better. I’ve been climbing for over 12 years...
Mountaineering on the Sierra Nevada, by Clarence King. Edited and with a preface by Francis P. Farquhar. 8 vo. ; 320 pages, 8 illustrations. New York: W. W. Norton & Co., Inc., 1935. Price $3.50.The material of this book, first appearing in 18...
The East Face of Mount ChephrenArthur GranWe were three climbers, who had come from Alaska and New York to attempt a great alpine face. John Hudson, Pete Geiser and I were packing to a high camp at the base of the east face of Mount Chephren. Afte...
Arabian Fantasy–Jebel MishtMichael P. Searle, EnglandTHE TIMELESS deserts of Arabia spread out across 1000 kilometers of shimmering sand seas, gravel plains and quicksands from the volcanic hills of the Red Sea to the Oman Mountains bordering the ...