Chicago Mountaineering Club. During the past year considerable effort was spent improving the club’s safety program. We are constantly modifying this program to make it more effective and more easily understood. Climbing in our local practice area...
Teton Tales and Other Petzoldt Anecdotes. Paul K. Petzoldt, with Kevin Cassidy. ICS Books, Merrillville, Indiana, 1995. 214 pages, black-and-white photos. $14.95.This is oral history, transcribed; and as the title implies it has a narrow focus tha...
Unnamed spire, attempt. Bryan Palminiter and I attempted a new line on an unnamed spire to the right of the Lotus Flower Tower in August. Since our return, we have learned that the high point of our attempt came within 50 feet of intersecting a Be...
Late last summer Lisa Rand and I headed up from the old mine ruins in Pine Creek to the high alpine of Royce Lakes basin. The hike starts out bizarre: in a mile or so you look down on what looks like a Lord of the Rings movie set, with bom...
Remillard Peak Area, Northern Selkirks. Though disappointed to discover that another group had spent a week in 1971 in this previously undisturbed area, we decided to fly in during the first week of August to try the interesting, still unclimbed p...
Mt. Zeus, Northwest Ridge. The many rock towers and pinnacles in the Pantheon Range often get overlooked in favor of the better-known peaks around Mt. Waddington, just south. The Pantheons have seen only a handful of visits from technical climbers...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION Wyoming, TetonsOn August 27, Steve Gorham (25), Paul Wade (24), and Kevin Patno (25) were climbing “The Snaz” when Patno, who was leading the pitch above the crux, broke off a large rock and fell. Gorham was bel...
Gorra Blanca Ascent and Attempts on Fitz Roy, Cerro Torre and Other Peaks. My husband Gino Buscaini and I climbed the whole of the Supercouloir of Fitz Roy on December 6 but because of bad weather we had to rappel off the next day. The weather tha...
Space below my Feet, by Gwen Moffat. Boston: Houghton Mifflin Company, The Riverside Press, Cambridge, 1961. 302 pages, illustrated with photographs. Price $5.Among mountaineering works Gwen Moffat’s book is in a category all by itself. (A well-kn...
“Cima Asso,” First Ascent. For the third year in a row, the Club Alpino Italiano—Asso supported an expedition to Pakistan. The leader was Angelo Rusconi. The aim of the expedition was to reach an unknown valley in the mountain chain of the Hindu ...
United States: Climbs in the Pacific NorthwestStein’s Pillar, Oregon. Stein’s Pillar is a spectacular rhyolite monolith located in central Oregon. One reaches it by turning off U.S. Highway 28 near the upper end of the Ochoco Reservoir, at a point...
Southern Patagonian Icecap. The ninth Argentine-Slovene Expedition was made up of A. Nikolic, E. Curioni, M. Serrano, Pedro Skvarca and me. Our activity was in two phases. In the first we explored and climbed peaks to the west of the Glacier Upsal...
Forked Peak and Kabru Dome Correction. Page 184 of AAJ, 1988 carried an account about Major K. V. Cherian’s expedition’s ascent of Rathong, which also claimed the ascents of Forked Peak and Kabru Dome. An enquiry for details of the latter two asce...
Dronning Louise Land, various ascents. Gerwyn Lloyd, Tim Radford, and I, members of a North Wales-based mountain rescue team, visited the most northerly significant mountain range in Arctic East Greenland, an area known as Dronning Louise Land. On...
AVALANCHEUtah, Catherine PassOn November 13, 1985, two men (29 and 24) died as a result of an avalanche near Lake Catherine, between Brighton and Alta ski resorts. About 1445, the avalanche broke loose as the two victims, who were cross-country sk...
This season had fewer climbers and more trekkers than last season, with 3,712 attempting the summit, compared to 4,048 last year. Foreign climbers rose to 89%. The first two weeks of January 2010 were the busiest for climbing. There were fewer e...
Langtang Lirung Attempt. An unsuccessful attempt on the south ridge of Langtang Lirung was made by eight Polish climbers led by Waclaw Dudek. On October 29, they reached 6800 meters.Elizabeth Hawley
“When there’s only one in the crew, everybody gets to be captain.” – “Big Wall Pro: Flavio d’ Bongo,” from The Complete Book of Big Wall Climbing, by Chongo.I turned my head as the first crack sounded, and watched, dumbfounded with awe and reveren...
Tests on Roped Climbing TechniquesWILLIAM E. SIRIThe instant a rope is uncoiled, mountaineering becomes, in part, an engineering project. Yet so far as the engineering element is concerned, it is often more an art than a science—a choice of techni...
ANALYSIS OF SIXTY-SIX MOUNTAINEERING ACCIDENTS, UNITED STATES AND CANADAFIVE-YEAR PERIOD, 1947-1951LOCALITYCascades, 13 accidents; Colorado Rockies, 12; Tetons, 11; Appalachian Mountains, 6; Yosemite Valley, 5; Sierra Nevada, 4; Canada (Rockies, P...