Challenges in Alaska and the Yukon, 1968Bradford WashburnDURING the last few years Boston’s Museum of Science has been one of the major sources of information for those contemplating pioneer climbs or mountain exploration in Alaska and northwester...
The Shoes of Kilimanjaro and Other Oddventure Travel Stories. Cameron M. Burns. Basalt, Colorado: Hard Pressed Books, 2002. 184 pages. Paperback. $16.95.The Hard Way: Stories of Danger, Survival and the Soul of Adventure. Mark Jenkins. New York: S...
Mount Alberta’s North FaceGeorge H. Lowe IIIWHILE glancing through photos at the AAC Clubhouse in New York, I came upon Fred Ayres’ pictures of Mount Alberta, taken prior to his and Oberlin’s second ascent. (A.A.J., 1949, 7:2, pp. 124-133.) The ap...
Huascarán, Southeast Ridge and Peaks in Quebrada Ulta. In June Theo Dowbenka, Austrian, Heinrich Händel, Sebastian Hohenreiter, Peter Schiml and I as leader, Germans, climbed in the Cordillera Blanca. Our Base Camp lay at 13,125 feet in the Jatun ...
Ganesh, Annapurna Group. The Alpine Club of Kyoto sent an expedition to the southernmost peak of Annapurna I, Ganesh (23,800 feet) (not to be confused with the Ganesh Himal). On October 13 Masaaki Kimura, Hiromichi Yoshino and Yutaka Ageta climbed...
KENNETH ROSE McALPIN1882–1964Dr. McAlpin was born on February 22, 1882, and died at his home, Kenrose Farm, West Berne, New York, on February 9, 1964. A native of New York, he was the last survivor of the five sons of Gen. Edwin A. McAlpin, once a...
Colorado Climbs, 1982. Eldorado Canyon. New route activity continues in Eldorado Canyon, although not at the feverish pace of the 1981 season. The canyon still refuses to be “climbed out”, the same core group of locals, along with a variety of par...
Peaks Above the Southern Patagonian Icecap. In February we went to Lago Dickson, north of the Paine group. We camped in the highest tongue of bush by an ice puddle on the Glaciar Dickson. In fine weather we did a day trip onto the icecap via a sad...
FALL ON ROCK, FATIGUE–UNABLE TO CLIP CARABINERCalifornia, Pinnacles National MonumentThe accident happened on September 25 at the Pinnacles Monument around noon. My climbing partner, Jamey Stowell, and I were on our fourth climb of the day, and cl...
Bhagirathi IIISilvo Karo, Planinska Zveza Slovenije, Yugoslavia Translated by Maja KošakASIAN HEAT and time constraints encourage Janez Jeglic, Dr. Mojca Zajc and me, together with our liaison officer Hemant Bohr, to leave New Delhi on the second ...
Ejnar Mikkelsen Fjeld, Watkins Mountains, East Greenland. A Scottish group, Andrew Ross, Graham Williams, Nigel Robinson and Peter Lewis, finally achieved what had been known to be a most difficult feat in approaching and climbing what was probabl...
Witch Doctor Wall, Voodoo Wall and Solaris. The summer saw two aid climbs put up on Exfoliation Dome’s 1,100' Witch Doctor Wall in the Darrington area. The Voodoo Wall (IV 5.10 A2), established by David Burdick and Michael Swan- icke, starts on st...
AVALANCHE, STRANDEDYukon Territory, Mount Logan, East RidgeOn July 1, 1981, a radio message was received from a party of four climbers (ages 30–34) attempting the east ridge of Mount Logan. They had lost most of their gear in a small avalanche. Th...
RESPIRATORY DISTRESSAlaska, Mount McKinley, West ButtressOn May 26, the Casade-Dacks Expedition of Ron Fridell (50), Sid Perkins, and Don Andrews (43) flew to the Kahiltna Glacier to begin their climb of the West Buttress of Mount McKinley. Over t...
Early Visits to Mount Sir AlexanderFrederick K. VreelandTHE year 1929 witnessed the first ascent of the most northerly outpost of the higher Canadian Rockies. The conquerors of the peak are Messrs. A. J. Gilmour and N. D. Waffl and Miss Helen I. B...
Cordilleras Quimsa Cruz, Various Activity. In July, after a visit to the Cordillera Apolobamba, I joined Scotsman Russell Small and Australian Sam Maffett in La Paz for a trip to the Cordillera Quimsa Cruz. We took public buses to the village of R...
Koa Rong Valley, Lahul, 1977. An expedition from the Mazovia district of Poland climbed in the Koa Rong valley. They were led by Andrzej Zboinski. They approached via Darcha, which is some six miles northwest of the mouth of the valley. The approa...
Fluted Peak, Ascent. K. P. Mitra led a ten-member expedition from Bengal, India, to Fluted Peak (6122 m), climbing it on July 12. This is a well-known peak on the Losar nala, Spiti. The summitters were: Uttam Das, Ajit Biswas, Ashok Adhikari, Nare...
Gunsight Peaks Traverse, Gunrunner. Tales of white granite and striking crack systems on the Gunsight Peaks have intrigued climbers for years, but the two-day approach and notoriously unstable weather have kept the number of actual visits low. On ...
Middle Troll, south face; The Throne, Smaug’s Hoard. Eric Sullivan and I flew to Pika Glacier on August 9 and glassed The Throne’s south face. We skied to the base and found a start for our line: a left-facing, right-leaning dihedral system toward...