Bauljuri. Bauijuri (19,429 feet) in the Nanda Devi group was climbed on September 30 by a nine-member Nainital Mountaineering Club team. Among the group were Girish Sah, leader, Anup Sah and Sundaranand.Kamal K. Guha, Himalayan Club
Gangotri II Tragedy. An Indian expedition led by Nabanu Banerjee had hoped to climb Gangotri II. On September 28, three climbers and three porters climbed to Camp III but were never seen again. Two bodies were later found near Camp I.
A.A.C., Rocky Mountain Section. During the year the section did not sponsor any activities other than our (usually) annual dinner. This year’s took place at Writers Manor, Denver, on October 20, with an illustrated talk on a recent expedition to t...
Makalu Attempts. Again there were many expeditions to Makalu, mostly on the southeast ridge. Koreans led by Kim Kwan-Jun reached 7200 meters on September 26 and Japanese led by Kenji Shimakata got to 7050 meters on November 8. Japanese Kazufumi Wa...
MOUNTAINEERING HISTORYThe Mountaineering of Emperor Hadrian. The Greeks believed that Mt. Etna was either the mountain with which Zeus crushed the giant Typhon, or the workshop of Hephaestus and the Cyclops. The later Romans had begun to explain i...
Negruni Group, Chachacomani, Tiquimani, Illimani, Cordillera Real. The Upper Austria Friends of Nature Expedition left for La Paz on May 24. We were Rudolf Wurzer, leader, Willi Bauer, Manfred Edlinger, Leo Kerschbaumsteiner, Reinhard Streif and I...
Traverse of Marvin Peninsula, Ellesmere Island. We succeeded in crossing the entire Marvin Peninsula from the British Empire Range to Ward Hunt Island, despite heavy snowstorms. From Base Camp on McClintock Sound, we spent two days working 12 mile...
Nanga Parbat, Schell Route. Our 19-member expedition included Silvo Babic, Robi Držan, Marija Frantar, Janez and Urban Golob, Steve House, Dragan Ilic, Tomo Jesenicnik, Gregor Justin, Ivan Kotnik, Željko Knez, Darinka Lecnik, Anton Pavic, Dr. Mira...
Swiss around Kangchenjunga. A Swiss expedition to the region of Kangchenjunga was reported from India in April 1949. Members were Alfred Sutter, René Dittert, Mme. Annalies Lohner and Dr. Wyss-Dunant, with the guides Adolf Rubi and Jacob Pargetzi....
Eiger. As for the past few years, many attempts were made to climb the N. face of the Eiger, and as has been usual, the name, Eigerwand, as the head of a dispatch has meant a tale of disaster, injury and death. A number of parties appeared on the ...
The Merry-Go-Round of My Life: An Adventurer’s Diary. Richard Hechtel. Vantage Press, New York, 1991. 219 pages, 10 black-and-white photographs. Hard cover. $13.95.Richard Hechtel’s climbing memoirs were first published in 1989 by Bruckmann Press ...
WEATHER, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENTCalifornia, Yosemite Valley, El CapitanOn Saturday, November 22, Tim Burnett (26) and Chris Abbott (45) arrived in the Valley for a climb of the Nose. At the Visitor Center the forecast was for clouds but no major stor...
Everest, summary of events during the pre-monsoon season. Once upon a time—a decade ago— everyone knew that the period of good weather for summiting Everest was between May 5 and 15. Commercial expedition leaders set from the 6th to the 10th as th...
EXPOSURE, EXHAUSTION, HYPOTHERMIA, INEXPERIENCE, BAD WEATHERAlaska, Mt. McKinleyOn May 15, 1980, Manfred Loibl and Margaret Huschke (ages unknown) of Munich, Germany, were flown to the Kahiltna Glacier on Mt. McKinley by Talkeetna Air Taxi. The co...
Jannu, northwest face, attempt. Toward the end of September, I made a discreet attempt on a new line up the left side of the northwest face of Jannu (7,710m). There were many difficulties for me and my trekking partner, Antoni, to overcome before ...
Mulkilà IX, North Face. The Lahul 1995 expedition was organized by the alpinism school Bruno Dodi of the Piacenza department of the Italian Alpine Club to celebrate its 25th anniversary. The adventure started July 28 and finished August 26, 1995. ...
In one of the more remote valleys of that sub-arctic rain forest called the Canadian Rockies there is a mountain wall which acts like a strong drug on the mind of the observer. So dark, sheer, and gloomy is the North Face of North Twin, like a b...
Mt. Nevermore, East Face, The Call of the Raven. In June, Mike Houston (a.k.a. Mausen) and brothers Doug and Jed Workman flew to the Tatina Glacier and spent 40 days in Alaska’s Kichatna Spires, making the first ascent of the east face of Mt. Neve...
Ama Dablam, North to South Traverse. It was reported that a team of climbers summited Ama Dablam via the north ridge and descended along the southwest ridge. The north ridge had not seen a successful ascent in 13 years, but on October 19 Friedl Hu...
Twin Sister High Route. An easily accessible alpine training ground during the 1980s, the Twin Sister Range on the western edge of the Mt. Baker Wilderness is now isolated behind miles of private and gated logging lands. From May 12-14 Mark Allen,...