Climbs in Bill’s Pass Area. There are a number of prominent pinnacles on the ridges southwest of Bill’s Pass, which were apparently unclimbed. On August 2 Gay Campbell, Lorrie Hough, Stan Fuka and I climbed one of them, the highest or second highe...
Gasherbrum IV Attempt. Todd Bibler, Don Frederickson, Matt Kerns, Craig McKibben, Jim Nelson, Dr. Charles Scherz and I as leader began the trek to Base Camp from Bongla on June 12 and arrived there some days later. We spent 2½ weeks ferrying loads...
Kohe Shakhaur, Kohe Nadir Shah, M2 and M3, 1978. On July 31, 1978 our expedition from Brno placed Base Camp at 13,000 feet in the Shakhaur valley. We climbed alpine-style, making mostly new routes. Our first climbs for acclimatization were west of...
Bubuli-Mo-Tin, Ultar Group. Jacques Maurin and I made the first ascent of a 6000-meter (19,685-foot) tower, a satellite of the Ultar group on May 22. It lies southwest of Bojohaghur Duan Asir between the Ultar and Hasanabad Glaciers. We ascended n...
Bauljuri. Bauijuri (19,429 feet) in the Nanda Devi group was climbed on September 30 by a nine-member Nainital Mountaineering Club team. Among the group were Girish Sah, leader, Anup Sah and Sundaranand.Kamal K. Guha, Himalayan Club
Gangotri II Tragedy. An Indian expedition led by Nabanu Banerjee had hoped to climb Gangotri II. On September 28, three climbers and three porters climbed to Camp III but were never seen again. Two bodies were later found near Camp I.
A.A.C., Rocky Mountain Section. During the year the section did not sponsor any activities other than our (usually) annual dinner. This year’s took place at Writers Manor, Denver, on October 20, with an illustrated talk on a recent expedition to t...
Makalu Attempts. Again there were many expeditions to Makalu, mostly on the southeast ridge. Koreans led by Kim Kwan-Jun reached 7200 meters on September 26 and Japanese led by Kenji Shimakata got to 7050 meters on November 8. Japanese Kazufumi Wa...
MOUNTAINEERING HISTORYThe Mountaineering of Emperor Hadrian. The Greeks believed that Mt. Etna was either the mountain with which Zeus crushed the giant Typhon, or the workshop of Hephaestus and the Cyclops. The later Romans had begun to explain i...
Negruni Group, Chachacomani, Tiquimani, Illimani, Cordillera Real. The Upper Austria Friends of Nature Expedition left for La Paz on May 24. We were Rudolf Wurzer, leader, Willi Bauer, Manfred Edlinger, Leo Kerschbaumsteiner, Reinhard Streif and I...
Traverse of Marvin Peninsula, Ellesmere Island. We succeeded in crossing the entire Marvin Peninsula from the British Empire Range to Ward Hunt Island, despite heavy snowstorms. From Base Camp on McClintock Sound, we spent two days working 12 mile...
Nanga Parbat, Schell Route. Our 19-member expedition included Silvo Babic, Robi Držan, Marija Frantar, Janez and Urban Golob, Steve House, Dragan Ilic, Tomo Jesenicnik, Gregor Justin, Ivan Kotnik, Željko Knez, Darinka Lecnik, Anton Pavic, Dr. Mira...
Swiss around Kangchenjunga. A Swiss expedition to the region of Kangchenjunga was reported from India in April 1949. Members were Alfred Sutter, René Dittert, Mme. Annalies Lohner and Dr. Wyss-Dunant, with the guides Adolf Rubi and Jacob Pargetzi....
Eiger. As for the past few years, many attempts were made to climb the N. face of the Eiger, and as has been usual, the name, Eigerwand, as the head of a dispatch has meant a tale of disaster, injury and death. A number of parties appeared on the ...
The Merry-Go-Round of My Life: An Adventurer’s Diary. Richard Hechtel. Vantage Press, New York, 1991. 219 pages, 10 black-and-white photographs. Hard cover. $13.95.Richard Hechtel’s climbing memoirs were first published in 1989 by Bruckmann Press ...
WEATHER, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENTCalifornia, Yosemite Valley, El CapitanOn Saturday, November 22, Tim Burnett (26) and Chris Abbott (45) arrived in the Valley for a climb of the Nose. At the Visitor Center the forecast was for clouds but no major stor...
Everest, summary of events during the pre-monsoon season. Once upon a time—a decade ago— everyone knew that the period of good weather for summiting Everest was between May 5 and 15. Commercial expedition leaders set from the 6th to the 10th as th...
EXPOSURE, EXHAUSTION, HYPOTHERMIA, INEXPERIENCE, BAD WEATHERAlaska, Mt. McKinleyOn May 15, 1980, Manfred Loibl and Margaret Huschke (ages unknown) of Munich, Germany, were flown to the Kahiltna Glacier on Mt. McKinley by Talkeetna Air Taxi. The co...
Jannu, northwest face, attempt. Toward the end of September, I made a discreet attempt on a new line up the left side of the northwest face of Jannu (7,710m). There were many difficulties for me and my trekking partner, Antoni, to overcome before ...
Mulkilà IX, North Face. The Lahul 1995 expedition was organized by the alpinism school Bruno Dodi of the Piacenza department of the Italian Alpine Club to celebrate its 25th anniversary. The adventure started July 28 and finished August 26, 1995. ...