First Ascent of the Titcomb NeedlesOrrin H. BonneyIN the western part of Wyoming, almost midway between theN. and S. boundary lines of the state, lies one of the most spectacular alpine wonderlands of the United States—the Wind River Range.In this...
FALL ON SNOW, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, INADEQUATE BELAY Oregon, Mount Hood, Castle CragsOn April 3, Doug Adair (50) and Debra Marsh (47) attempted to climb a variation on Castle Crags, a steep buttress separating the south and west sides of Mount Ho...
Sudarshan. An expedition of the Gangotri Exploration Committee led by Biren Sarkar set up Base Camp at 15,575 feet near the Raktvarn Glacier on September 12, Camp I at 18,500 feet on the 19th and Camp II at 20,000 feet on the 24th. Two unnamed pea...
MAYNARD COHICK 1938-1979Maynard Cohick lost his life September 19, 1979, on Annapurna I in an avalanche that claimed the lives of two other climbing members of the party.Maynard, 41 years old, was born in Lock Haven, Pennsylvania and led a full an...
Ian Gough organized a trip to Oman in January 2009, after learning about its limestone peaks from Paul Knott, another local of Christchurch, New Zealand. During 2004 Ian and I climbed together in New Zealand’s Southern Alps. Five years later he pr...
FALL ON SNOW, ASCENDING TOO FAST, INEXPERIENCEWashington, East McMillan SpireOn July 2, 1987, Mark Allaback (26) was leading on East McMillan Spire in a narrow couloir which had a chockstone bypass on the left all via an exposed ledge and face. Th...
Sudarshan Parbat, East Ridge. Nobuaki Yamada, Hiroyuki Fujimura, Miss Tomoko Maeda, Kensei Ojima, Shigeo Yoneda and I as leader established Base Camp at 4600 meters on May 4. Camps I and II were placed on the Svetvarn Glacier at 5200 and 5800 mete...
FALL ON SNOW-SKI MOUNTAINEERINGWyoming, Grand TetonsOn March 2, while ski-mountaineering, Ben Morley (23) was descending an area near the Southwest Couloir of the Middle Teton on skis. He hit a patch of ice on his skis, lost control, and fell 500 ...
Mt. McKinley. When we, Jaq Lasner, Norm Saunders, and I, all students at U.C.L.A., first thought of trying McKinley, our main consideration was money. By cutting here and there, we finally managed to bring the cost of the climb, from Los Angeles t...
Method and Madness Evolution of Yosemite Face-Climbing StandardsBruce MorrisWhile NOT AS strenuous as some cracks, Yosemite granite face-climbing is an equally demanding technical and intellectual discipline. John Gill is said to have switched fro...
Makalu West Pillar, Winter Attempt. A Polish-Belgian expedition to Makalu was led by Krzysztof Wielicki and composed of Anna Czerwinska, Ryszard Pawtowski and Belgian Ingrid Baeyens. On December 20, they climbed to 7400 meters for acclimatization....
Shiva Temple and Wotans ThroneWalter A. Wood, Jr.THE American Museum of Natural History Grand Canyon Expedition,1 which for brevity’s sake became known as the “Shiva Temple Expedition” or “The Lost World Expedition,” had as its purpose the biologi...
The Temple, Kangaroo Ridge, Cascades. On September 29, 1956, Fred Beckey and Donald Claunch decided to go to the well-known but seldom- visited Kangaroo Ridge area, north of Methon Valley. We drove from Chelan to Twisp and thence up the Twisp Rive...
Colorado—Rocky Mountain—No-Name Basin, Sunlight Peak: On 5 August 1953, a party of eight under the leadership of Dr. Roger S. Whitney set out from the CMC-AAC camp to make the reputedly easy ascent of Sunlight Peak. Approaching the Needle Ridge-Su...
West Virginia, Wolf Gap Recreation Area, East Face of Big Schloss Mtn. On 5 August at about 1545 Dave Templeton (46) of the PATC Mountaineering Section fell 60 feet to his death from a ledge near the top of Big Schloss. He landed head first on som...
Kwangde’s North Face in WinterDavid BreashearsI’M STUNNED DURING A PAUSE to rest while chopping a platform out of the ice below my hammock which is anchored to the north face of Kwangde. Across the valley, miles away, a magnificent scene has swell...
30 Years of Climbing Magazine. Climbing Magazine. Carbondale, CO: Primedia, 1999. 337 pages. $18.95.The Best of Rock & Ice: An Anthology. Dougald MacDonald, Editor. Seattle: The Mountaineers, 1999. 200 pages, black-and-white photographs. $17.9...
STRANDED ON DESCENT – UNABLE TO ASCEND ROPE, INADEQUATE SELFRESCUE SKILLS, COMMUNICATIONS PROBLEMS OVER DISTANCECalifornia, Yosemite Valley, Sons of YesterdayOn June 29, Curt (26) and Sherri (29) (pseudonyms) climbed Serenity Crack (three pitches,...
Everest, Northeast Ridge. Our expedition consisted of climbers Brummie Stokes, leader, Dr. Philip Horniblow, Harry Taylor, Joe Brown, Mo Anthoine, Dr. John English, Pete Long, Ali Kellas, Davy Jones, Ian Nicholson, Trevor Williams, Sam Roberts, Bi...
DUDLEY FRANCIS WOLFE1896–1939Dudley Francis Wolfe was born in Irvington-on-Hudson, New York, February 8, 1896. He disappeared on K2 in the Karakoram Himalayas, in the vicinity of Camp VII, with three Sherpa portersapproximately July 31st, 1939. No...