NO ROPE, CLIMBING ALONE, UNABLE TO DOWNCLIMB, JUMPED Colorado, Boulder CanyonOn June 24, 1989, Stephen Gilmore (30), David McConnell (27) and Annette Hailey (31) were out to climb Cozyhangon “The Dome.” While getting ready and waiting for another ...
P 6931 and P 6572, Batura Glacier. [P 6931 lies at the head of the Batura Glacier four kilometers northeast of Kampire Dior. The Italians give it an altitude of 7016 meters, derived from a Chinese glaciological survey, but the official altitude is...
San Rafael Swell. Frosty Weller and Randall Weekley made the first ascent of Sandcastle by its northwest face (II, 5.10-, A2, 4 pitches). This is on the ridge between Cane Wash and Oil Well Flat. Plank Walk (I, 5.10, 1 pitch) on Scallywag Point wa...
FALL ON ROCK, EXPOSURE, WEATHER, INADEQUATE CLOTHINGCalifornia, Mount WhitneyOn September 6, 1991, Reeves Magi (40ish) and Douglas Siegfried (35ish) were attempting the East Buttress Route on Mount Whitney. At 1600 their calls for help were heard ...
Nanda Ghunti, new route. Martin Moran led a six-member British expedition to this 6390m peak. Moran has been a regular visitor to the Garhwal for many years, carrying out significant exploration and making a number of noteworthy ascents. After est...
P 6940 (“Saraswati"). This peak lies on the Indo-Tibetan border, rising from the Saraswati valley near Badrinath. It is near Mana Pass and northwest of Kamet. The Indo-Japanese ladies’ expedition gave it the name of “Saraswati” after the river val...
Traverse to the South Pole. Argentine Sebastián de la Cruz has just returned from his traverse to the South Pole from the Weddell Sea with Spaniards, which they accomplished from December 3, 1994 to January 24, 1995. The Spaniards were leader Fran...
Uli Biaho, Attempt and Near Disaster. A Spanish Catalan expedition led by Oscar Cadiach and composed of Enric Dalmau, Joan Carles Grisso and Lluis Rafols was swept down several hundred meters by an avalanche in the middle of the night as they were...
The Mountaineers. The Mountaineers continues to broaden its offerings of climbing courses, seminars, and programs with a continued commitment to conservation, stewardship, and access that creates a long-standing interest for its members. A growing...
Washburn RememberedEncounters with the man and his photographs.Henry Bradford Washburn Jr. died on January 10, 2007, after a remarkable life as a mountaineer, cartographer, photographer, and museum director. A full obituary can be found elsewhere ...
Gaurishankar, northeast ridge attempt. The noted American mountaineer, John Roskelley, and his son Jess aimed to make the first ascent of Gaurishankar (7,134m) from its Tibetan side. The mountain defeated them as it had at least three earlier atte...
Spirits of the Air. Kurt Diemberger. Translated from the German by Audrey Salkeld. The Mountaineers, Seattle, 1994. 304 pages, numerous photographs, maps and other drawings. Appendices: a metric conversion table, chronology of the author’s importa...
CorrigendaMr. N. E. Odell informs us that Mrs. Chisholm of Glen Brittle, Skye (A.A.J. v, p. 372), is still living and that he talked with her by phone in December. We regret our incorrect report and also the error (p. 445) through which the name o...
Peaks in Southern Schweizer land, East Greenland. Our ski, mountaineering and scientific expedition of the Ligure Section of the Italian Alpine Club consisted of Anthony House, Marco and Enrico Chierici, Emma and Gianni Bisio, Paolo Gardino, Bruno...
King PeakElton ThayerKING Peak, 17,130 feet, occupies a remote position in the St. Elias Range. It opposes the north slopes of Mount Logan across the intervening King Glacier and overlooks the Seward icefields stretching toward the Gulf of Alaska....
Ruth Gorge, Snowpatrol second ascent, Cornhole Couloir, and British invasion. It’s late March and only six days into a three-week trip in the Ruth Gorge, with beautiful unclimbed lines towering in every direction, and my partner decides to throw i...
FALL ON ROCK–FAILURE TO CLIP INTO QUICKDRAW, WEATHER, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT–SHOESNew Hampshire, Rumney CragsMark (33) and I have been climbing together for a few years now. I recently took a lead climbing course and have already led a few climbs. O...
Utah, Little Cottonwood Canyon. On 19 September Mark McQuarrie (18) and George Lowe planned to make the first complete ascent of the buttress above the LDS church archives in Little Cottonwood Canyon. Lowe reports: We were carrying with us around ...
From April 7 to 21, 2007, a British group comprising Juliette and Simon Ash, Darren Davis, Sandy Gregson, Julie Urquhart, and I as leader, made a ski-touring and mountaineering trip to the small icecap at the northern end of Liverpool Land. We fle...
FALL ON ROCK AND ICE, INADEQUATE BELAY Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount TempleOn July 6, 1986, J.H. (38) and I.M. (23) were climbing the North Face of Mount Temple. Climbing conditions were poor due to fresh snow and verglas above 2700 meters, and ...