Ama Dablam, Northwest Face, The Stane Belak-Srauf Memorial Route. Vanja Furlan and Tomaz Humar climbed the central part of the northwest face of Ama Dablam (6828 m) in alpine style in April and May over two attempts. Their first attempt, which too...
Washington, Cascades, Magic Mountain. On 15 August, Lothar Kolbig, Harlow Higinbotham, Hank Tarchala and Charles Vilim were one of three parties which set out to climb Magic Mountain from the Chicago Mountaineering Club camp below Cascade Pass. Af...
Hallucinogen Wall, dry-tool free ascent. In May Ryan Nelson and Jared Ogden made a hybrid free-aid ascent of the daunting Hallucinogen Wall (VI 5.10 A3+). Ogden and others had attempted to free the route previously (AAJ 2004, p. 180) but without s...
Revolution Rock and Montgomery Cliff, Durango Area. The approach is via a gully to the west of Sweeney’s Restaurant parking lot, north of Durango. Revolution Rock is the lower-angled slab. Sandinistas is the 150-foot route that begins at the very ...
Manda. We were a team of five: Nandan Singh, a high-altitude porter, Rustom Antia, Muslim Contractor, Danesh Kalyaniwalla and I, leader. We established Base Camp on the bank for the Kedarganga at 14,000 feet. We followed the stream and established...
Mera. Although Mera is an easy trekking peak, a kind of high snow plateau with a small outcrop on its western side, it was ascended by Japanese on a new rock route on its west face. Kunihiko Kondo and Ms. Michiko Kiyoda placed Base Camp at 4400 me...
West Ridge of Eagles’ Rest Peak. Since the two previous ascents of this peak were made from the east, the west summit remained unclimbed until Leigh and Irene Ortenburger climbed it via the long west ridge extending from Anniversary Peak. We found...
Nanga Parbat Corrections. There has been a certain amount of inexact reporting on routes on Nanga Parbat in the last two American Alpine Journals. The Kinshofer Weg or Route was first observed and unofficially so named during Herrligkoffer’s 1963 ...
Das Glocknerbuch, by Oskar Kühlken. 308 pages, with 9 reproductions of period etchings, 12 pen drawings in the text, 2 double-page diagrams of the Glockner massif, and 39 full-page photographs. Salzburg: Verlag “Das Bergland Buch,” 1951. Price, $4...
GunnbjØrnsfjeld Ascent and Altitudes. In May, I guided Steve Fossett, Steve Elliot and Brian Ewart up GunnbjØrnsfjeld, thought to be the highest peak in Greenland and the Arctic, as well as two nearby peaks, the second and third highest. We carrie...
Ak-Su North Peak, First Winter Ascents. The winter season of 1998-’99 saw the first two winter ascents of the enormous north face of Ak-Su North Peak. Pavel Chabaline (Kirov) led the first team to summit; in typical Russian style, he led all the p...
Everest. A Japanese expedition is attempting Mount Everest from Tibet during the winter, as reported in January of 1988. The leader Tsuneo Hasegawa is accompanied by his wife and two others. They had hoped to make their climb in the autumn but wer...
P6380, Kanjeralwa Group. Four French climbers were led by Michel Thodoroff. They climbed the north face to the north ridge. On September 30, Michel Thodoroff, Vincent Dalmais and three Gurung porters Iman, Man Bahadur and Dunbar completed the firs...
Phabrang. A 19-member team from the Indo-Tibetan Border Police was led by Kirpa Ram. On August 12, Company Commander Nirbhai Singh, Naiks Chholda Chhering, Hamam Singh, Ranjit Singh, Constables Raj Kishen, Vijay Kumar and Chhering Lobsang reached ...
Annapurna IV Attempt. A 13-member British team hoped to climb Annapurna IV (7525 meters, 24,688 feet) by the northwest ridge. They had to turn back at 7400 meters on November 20. The leader was Robin Roy Hamer.Elizabeth Hawley
The North Face of Storm King. On July 1 Dick Emerson and I camped at the snow line on the south side far below the saddle that connects Goode and Storm King. On the next day it took some time to reach the saddle, where I found the angle piton Dick...
Iowa Mountaineers. With another active year, club membership has grown to 5100. Members live in 38 states, and over 4,750 people participated in the club’s many instructional courses, mountaineering camps and foreign expeditions.Under Jim Ebert’s ...
Mt. Fay. The early history is of interest. The name was first applied to the present Mt. Bident about 1900, and when C. S. Thompson made the first ascent in 1903, he sent the summit stone to Professor Fay as a souvenir. The Dominion Topographical ...
Mount St. Elias Traverse. On June 8 George Bolling, Kelly Creamer, Dick Dietz, Rob Leitz and I flew to Yakutat, Alaska with the intention of climbing Mount St. Elias by the south ridge. We wanted to leave open the possibility of sending two of our...
LOSS OF CONTROL IN A VOLUNTARY GLISSADE—Washington, Emmans Glacier. Dean Klapper (33) was killed in a fall from the 13,000-foot level of the Emmans Glacier while climbing with four friends. (Source: Seattle Post-Intelligencer, ’’July 8, 1977.)