Nanga Parbat Corrections. There has been a certain amount of inexact reporting on routes on Nanga Parbat in the last two American Alpine Journals. The Kinshofer Weg or Route was first observed and unofficially so named during Herrligkoffer’s 1963 ...
Das Glocknerbuch, by Oskar Kühlken. 308 pages, with 9 reproductions of period etchings, 12 pen drawings in the text, 2 double-page diagrams of the Glockner massif, and 39 full-page photographs. Salzburg: Verlag “Das Bergland Buch,” 1951. Price, $4...
GunnbjØrnsfjeld Ascent and Altitudes. In May, I guided Steve Fossett, Steve Elliot and Brian Ewart up GunnbjØrnsfjeld, thought to be the highest peak in Greenland and the Arctic, as well as two nearby peaks, the second and third highest. We carrie...
Ak-Su North Peak, First Winter Ascents. The winter season of 1998-’99 saw the first two winter ascents of the enormous north face of Ak-Su North Peak. Pavel Chabaline (Kirov) led the first team to summit; in typical Russian style, he led all the p...
Everest. A Japanese expedition is attempting Mount Everest from Tibet during the winter, as reported in January of 1988. The leader Tsuneo Hasegawa is accompanied by his wife and two others. They had hoped to make their climb in the autumn but wer...
P6380, Kanjeralwa Group. Four French climbers were led by Michel Thodoroff. They climbed the north face to the north ridge. On September 30, Michel Thodoroff, Vincent Dalmais and three Gurung porters Iman, Man Bahadur and Dunbar completed the firs...
Phabrang. A 19-member team from the Indo-Tibetan Border Police was led by Kirpa Ram. On August 12, Company Commander Nirbhai Singh, Naiks Chholda Chhering, Hamam Singh, Ranjit Singh, Constables Raj Kishen, Vijay Kumar and Chhering Lobsang reached ...
Annapurna IV Attempt. A 13-member British team hoped to climb Annapurna IV (7525 meters, 24,688 feet) by the northwest ridge. They had to turn back at 7400 meters on November 20. The leader was Robin Roy Hamer.Elizabeth Hawley
The North Face of Storm King. On July 1 Dick Emerson and I camped at the snow line on the south side far below the saddle that connects Goode and Storm King. On the next day it took some time to reach the saddle, where I found the angle piton Dick...
Iowa Mountaineers. With another active year, club membership has grown to 5100. Members live in 38 states, and over 4,750 people participated in the club’s many instructional courses, mountaineering camps and foreign expeditions.Under Jim Ebert’s ...
Mt. Fay. The early history is of interest. The name was first applied to the present Mt. Bident about 1900, and when C. S. Thompson made the first ascent in 1903, he sent the summit stone to Professor Fay as a souvenir. The Dominion Topographical ...
Mount St. Elias Traverse. On June 8 George Bolling, Kelly Creamer, Dick Dietz, Rob Leitz and I flew to Yakutat, Alaska with the intention of climbing Mount St. Elias by the south ridge. We wanted to leave open the possibility of sending two of our...
LOSS OF CONTROL IN A VOLUNTARY GLISSADE—Washington, Emmans Glacier. Dean Klapper (33) was killed in a fall from the 13,000-foot level of the Emmans Glacier while climbing with four friends. (Source: Seattle Post-Intelligencer, ’’July 8, 1977.)
• Desire & Ice: Searching for Perspective Atop Denali (National Geographic Press $16.00) is a description of David Brill’s guided climb of Denali. Well-researched and lucidly written, this is highly recommended for would-be climbers attempting...
Mount Deborah, West Face and South Ridge. In May John Ellsworth, Chris Topher and I were landed at 6000 feet on the Yanert Glacier. Two days later we had established a direct route through the first and second icefalls, the upper maze of crevasses...
Mount Logan, Winter Ascent. Mike Hill, Troy Ness, and I did the first winter ascent of Mount Logan on December 29, 1981. From Junction Camp, we ascended and ran the ridge on Soldier Boy to the base of a steep couloir, where we made our high camp o...
Makalu, Normal Route. It was reported that a seven-member Dutch team led by Reinier Zuidhoff reached 6850 meters in the post-monsoon season. They were forced to turn back because of avalanche danger. (High Mountain Sports 161)
Mount Bonneville, West Face Crack and West Face of South Summit. On first viewing the west face of Bonneville, Tony Qamar and I were impressed by the vertical chimney which runs straight up the face to the forepinnacle northwest of the main summit...
Kabru Dome, Sikkim. The Indian Mountaineering Foundation sponsored an expedition to Kabru Dome (6600 meters, 21,654 feet) through the Himalayan Mountaineering Institute of Darjeeling. It was one of the selection camps for the members, both men and...
Shadow Nose, Mineral Canyon. Just above the standard take-out point for those who run Labyrinth Canyon is a north-facing buttress. In June Dave Mondeau and I put up Shadow Nose (III, 5.9, A1) on this buttress. The route follows long pure Friend cr...