Austvagoy Island, Vagakallen, second ascent of Storm Pillar. From June 16 to 18 Vasek Satava and I made the second ascent of Storm Pillar on the Storpillaren of Vagakallen. The route was first climbed in September 2003 by Louise Thomas and Mike “T...
Kayaking across Baffin Island. Andy Bridge, Phil DeRieme, Hayden Glatte and John Weld were flown to a sandbar near the Barnes Icecap on Baffin Island on July 16. With their 35-pound kayaks each packed with 50 pounds of supplies, they set out for t...
FALL ON ICE/ SNOW, CLIMBING UNROPED, POOR CONDITIONSColorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Taylor GlacierOn October 16, a party of three started up the Taylor Glacier. The Taylor Glacier is a 40-60 degree 1,500-foot permanent snowfield in Rocky M...
California, Higher Cathedral Spire, Yosemite National Park—On April 17, 1955, at 5:30 a.m., Jack Weicker (24), Irene Beardsley (19), and Anne Pottinger (19) started up the talus at the base of the Higher Cathedral Spire. Roughly one and one-half h...
Denali National Park and Preserve Mountaineering Summary, 1996. High winds, wide crevasses and a record low snowfall set the scene for the 1996 climbing season in the Alaska Range. Extreme winds during the month of May caught many climbers by surp...
Mile-post 486 on the railroad through Animas Canyon was the meeting point of members of the 1933 expedition of the San Juan Mountaineers. On the afternoon of August 1st the expedition crossed the river by means of a cable car. Shortly afterwards f...
Nanga Parbat, Rupal Face Attempt, Schell Route. A 15-member South Korean expedition was led by Kim In-Sik. They set up Base Camp on May 10. Their attempt on the Schell route reached 7400 meters.Xavier Eguskitza, Pyrenaica, Bilbao, Spain
FALL INTO CREVASSE—British Columbia, Glacier National Park, Illecil- lewaet Glacier. James Tutt (24) and a companion were attempting to climb Youngs Peak on skis on March 30, 1976, ascending the Illecillewaet Glacier and descending the Asulkan Gla...
British in Nepal. An announcement from the Himalayan Committee of the Alpine Club states that a small expedition is being permitted to visit Nepal in 1949, under the leadership of H. W. Tilman. It was planned that the party should include also Pet...
An Early American Traveller in the Alps was Peter Irving, brother of Washington Irving, whose Journal of a crossing of the Alps and trip through Switzerland, June 20th-July 6th, 1807, is in the Yale University Library, and will shortly appear in t...
Ocshapalca, South Face, Attempt. Silvo Babic, Spela Hleb, Marjan Zver and Matej Zorko attempted a new snow/ice route on the south face of Ochsapalca (5881 m), Ludix - El Gato Blanco (550 meters, ED- 85°) in eight hours on July 7. They finished the...
Appalachian Mountain Club, 1946. The Appalachian Mountain Club resumed most of its pre-war activities during 1946. The mountaineering training provided by local rock climbing, which had to be sharply curtailed during the war because of a dearth of...
Changping, Shuangqiao, and Bipeng valleys, mapmaking. After my attempt on the Dragon’s Tooth, I trekked around the Changping, Shuangqiao, and Bipeng valleys for about nine days, hiking up hillsides, over passes, and up subsidiary valleys trying to...
Ama Dablam, Northwest Face, The Stane Belak-Srauf Memorial Route. Vanja Furlan and Tomaz Humar climbed the central part of the northwest face of Ama Dablam (6828 m) in alpine style in April and May over two attempts. Their first attempt, which too...
Washington, Cascades, Magic Mountain. On 15 August, Lothar Kolbig, Harlow Higinbotham, Hank Tarchala and Charles Vilim were one of three parties which set out to climb Magic Mountain from the Chicago Mountaineering Club camp below Cascade Pass. Af...
Hallucinogen Wall, dry-tool free ascent. In May Ryan Nelson and Jared Ogden made a hybrid free-aid ascent of the daunting Hallucinogen Wall (VI 5.10 A3+). Ogden and others had attempted to free the route previously (AAJ 2004, p. 180) but without s...
Revolution Rock and Montgomery Cliff, Durango Area. The approach is via a gully to the west of Sweeney’s Restaurant parking lot, north of Durango. Revolution Rock is the lower-angled slab. Sandinistas is the 150-foot route that begins at the very ...
Manda. We were a team of five: Nandan Singh, a high-altitude porter, Rustom Antia, Muslim Contractor, Danesh Kalyaniwalla and I, leader. We established Base Camp on the bank for the Kedarganga at 14,000 feet. We followed the stream and established...
Mera. Although Mera is an easy trekking peak, a kind of high snow plateau with a small outcrop on its western side, it was ascended by Japanese on a new rock route on its west face. Kunihiko Kondo and Ms. Michiko Kiyoda placed Base Camp at 4400 me...
West Ridge of Eagles’ Rest Peak. Since the two previous ascents of this peak were made from the east, the west summit remained unclimbed until Leigh and Irene Ortenburger climbed it via the long west ridge extending from Anniversary Peak. We found...