Mount Blackburn, Northwest Ridge. On May 9, Paul Klaus flew Paul Barry, Mikki Hand, Randy Kinney and me to 7,200 feet on the Nabesna Icefield, north of Blackburn (16,390 feet). We placed camps at 9,700 feet, 11,300 feet and 13,300 feet on the stan...
Akher Chioh Attempt and Tragedy, Eastern Hindu Kush. My wife Anita Burkhardt-Fendt, Klaus Cramer, Christine Wieloch, Dr. Klaus Schönwald, Edeltraut Schönwald and I as leader hoped to make the fourth ascent of Akher Chioh (7020 meters, 23,032 feet)...
Glacier Dome, Annapurna Group. The Federation of All-Japan Mountaineering Union’s Chiba Prefecture expedition climbed in the Annapurna group. On October 16, Mitsuhiro Nishimura and the Sherpa Dorje stood on the summit of 23,800-foot Glacier Dome a...
Patagonian Ascents, 1978. I have just received more news from Mario González about the season in Patagonia. Fitz Roy was climbed by Italians and South Africans, both groups by the American route from the southwest. (Lo Scarpone has reported that t...
Piton Tower, West and North Faces. Stan Shepard and I made the first ascent of the west face on July 16, using pitons for aid and one bolt for safety. Near the bottom the route diagonaled left, then right, and proceeded generally up the center of ...
Yahuarraju, Northwest Face, Huantsán Norte’s Western Summit, West Face and P c. 5500. On May 31 and June 1 Walter Sachatonicek and I made a new route, the 2600-foot-high northwest face of Yahuar- raju (5675 meters, 18,619 feet). We climbed onto th...
Kinnuar Kailash or Jharkanden and Kailash. Technically difficult Kinnuar Kailash had remained virgin despite nine attempts. Captain Kiran Kumar was selected as leader of a Western Command Expedition, with Captain Lakha Singh as deputy. Base Camp w...
Suitilla, Attempt. A five-member Sahyagiri Trekkers expedition from Mumbai, led by Makarand Pendse, attempted Suitilla (6373m), an unclimbed peak in the eastern Kumaon that rises from the Yangchar Glacier (near the Kalabaland Glacier and Ralam Pas...
St. Elias Southeast and East Ridges Attempt. On June 13, Steve Bain, Karen Bush, Charlie Carr, Ben McKinley, Chip Morgan and I were on a fork of the Newton Glacier right below the southeast ridge of St. Elias. Our goal was to complete the unclimbe...
Aguja de la Silla, West Face, Attempt. In January, 2000, Tommy Bonapace and Christian Zenz (Austria) attempted the west face of Aguja de la Silla in alpine style, spending six days on the wall. They retreated 300 meters from the summit. Bonapace h...
P 6648 Attempt, near Nanda Devi and Trisul, 1978. Our expedition to Garhwal was organized by me and led by Stanislaw Zygmunt Zdrojew- ski. The other members were Marian Jarosz, Wojciech Jablonski, Ryszard Doniez, Pawel Murzyn, Józef, Lecki, Witold...
Yale Mountaineering Club. There were two significant aspects of the Club’s activity in 1963: the development of the west face of Ragged Mountain in Meriden, Conn., as a climbing area and the widespread accomplishments of the members during the sum...
The Sphinx, North Buttress. From the roadhead near Cedar Grove on the south fork of the Kings River, it is a long uphill hike to the tree-crowned, semi-alpine ridge south of the Sphinx. The Sphinx is an impressive tower near the highest point of a...
Poincenot, Saint Exupéry and Attempt on Cerro Stanhardt. The Swiss Martin Moosberger and Thomas Wüschner climbed Aguja Poincenot by the Whillans route on November 11 and got to the summit of Saint Exupéry by the Italian route on December 6. On Nov...
Drungso Ri. Our recent ?expedition” to Bhutan involved crossing the country from Thinpu in the west to Tashigang in the east. We were doing a research project on endemic goitre and genetics studies. During the five months I reached the northern bo...
Numbur. Koreans led by Lee Yeong-Chul made the seventh ascent of Numbur, climbing the southwest ridge to the west ridge. On September 25, Shin In-Sik and Nima Ongchu Sherpa climbed to the summit.Elizabeth Hawley
Cochamo, Cerro Trinidad and neighboring peaks. (Editor’s note: In the 2001 AAJ, p. 300, Ian Parnell gives a summary of a traverse of many ridges in the Cochamo area by Lucy Regan, Brian Bigger, and James Marshall. More information on the traverse ...
Gangapurna. The pre-monsoon Japanese Hachioji expedition had Katsuhiko Miyoshi as leader and Mistuu Hirashima as deputy plus five others. Villagers from Manangbhot threatened them and seized all their cash, some 4000 rupees. Base Camp was at 17,50...
Nevado Nina Collo, South Face. In the third week of June, Britons Angus Andrew and Neil Howells made the first ascent of the south face of Nina Collo (5280 meters, 17,323 feet). The climb was nearly all on ice. The peak is seen prominently from th...
Cerro Tres Quebradas, West Peak. Our Italo-Argentine expedition had as members Italian scientists Francesco Matelli and Claudio Scala and Argentines Orlando Bravo, Juan Abregui, Rodolfo Alonso, José Paliza, Daniel Villagra and me. Between January ...