Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, Wrangell Mountains, Mount Blackburn, Northwest Ridge

Mount Blackburn, Northwest Ridge. On May 9, Paul Klaus flew Paul Barry, Mikki Hand, Randy Kinney and me to 7,200 feet on the Nabesna Icefield, north of Blackburn (16,390 feet). We placed camps at 9,700 feet, 11,300 feet and 13,300 feet on the stan...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Akher Chioh Attempt and Tragedy, Eastern Hindu Kush

Akher Chioh Attempt and Tragedy, Eastern Hindu Kush. My wife Anita Burkhardt-Fendt, Klaus Cramer, Christine Wieloch, Dr. Klaus Schönwald, Edeltraut Schönwald and I as leader hoped to make the fourth ascent of Akher Chioh (7020 meters, 23,032 feet)...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Glacier Dome, Annapurna Group

Glacier Dome, Annapurna Group. The Federation of All-Japan Mountaineering Union’s Chiba Prefecture expedition climbed in the Annapurna group. On October 16, Mitsuhiro Nishimura and the Sherpa Dorje stood on the summit of 23,800-foot Glacier Dome a...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Argentine and Chilean Patagonia, Patagonian Ascents, 1978

Patagonian Ascents, 1978. I have just received more news from Mario González about the season in Patagonia. Fitz Roy was climbed by Italians and South Africans, both groups by the American route from the southwest. (Lo Scarpone has reported that t...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Washington, Cascade Mountains, Piton Tower, West and North Faces

Piton Tower, West and North Faces. Stan Shepard and I made the first ascent of the west face on July 16, using pitons for aid and one bolt for safety. Near the bottom the route diagonaled left, then right, and proceeded generally up the center of ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Peru—Cordillera Blanca, Yahuarraju, Northwest Face, Huantsán Norte's Western Summit, West Face and P c. 5500

Yahuarraju, Northwest Face, Huantsán Norte’s Western Summit, West Face and P c. 5500. On May 31 and June 1 Walter Sachatonicek and I made a new route, the 2600-foot-high northwest face of Yahuar- raju (5675 meters, 18,619 feet). We climbed onto th...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India—Himachal Pradesh, Kinnuar Kailash or Jharkanden and Kailash

Kinnuar Kailash or Jharkanden and Kailash. Technically difficult Kinnuar Kailash had remained virgin despite nine attempts. Captain Kiran Kumar was selected as leader of a Western Command Expedition, with Captain Lakha Singh as deputy. Base Camp w...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India, Garhwal - Kumaon, Suitilla, Attempt

Suitilla, Attempt. A five-member Sahyagiri Trekkers expedition from Mumbai, led by Makarand Pendse, attempted Suitilla (6373m), an unclimbed peak in the eastern Kumaon that rises from the Yangchar Glacier (near the Kalabaland Glacier and Ralam Pas...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, St. Elias Southeast and East Ridges Attempt

St. Elias Southeast and East Ridges Attempt. On June 13, Steve Bain, Karen Bush, Charlie Carr, Ben McKinley, Chip Morgan and I were on a fork of the Newton Glacier right below the southeast ridge of St. Elias. Our goal was to complete the unclimbe...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Argentine Patagonia, Aguja de la Silla, West Face, Attempt

Aguja de la Silla, West Face, Attempt. In January, 2000, Tommy Bonapace and Christian Zenz (Austria) attempted the west face of Aguja de la Silla in alpine style, spending six days on the wall. They retreated 300 meters from the summit. Bonapace h...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India—Garhwal, P 6648 Attempt, near Nanda Devi and Trisul, 1975

P 6648 Attempt, near Nanda Devi and Trisul, 1978. Our expedition to Garhwal was organized by me and led by Stanislaw Zygmunt Zdrojew- ski. The other members were Marian Jarosz, Wojciech Jablonski, Ryszard Doniez, Pawel Murzyn, Józef, Lecki, Witold...


Club Activities AAJ
Yale Mountaineering Club

Yale Mountaineering Club. There were two significant aspects of the Club’s activity in 1963: the development of the west face of Ragged Mountain in Meriden, Conn., as a climbing area and the widespread accomplishments of the members during the sum...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, California—Sierra Nevada, The Sphinx, North Butttress

The Sphinx, North Buttress. From the roadhead near Cedar Grove on the south fork of the Kings River, it is a long uphill hike to the tree-crowned, semi-alpine ridge south of the Sphinx. The Sphinx is an impressive tower near the highest point of a...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South American, Chilean–Argentine Patagonia, Poincenot, Saint Exupéry and Attempt on Cerro Stanhardt

Poincenot, Saint Exupéry and Attempt on Cerro Stanhardt. The Swiss Martin Moosberger and Thomas Wüschner climbed Aguja Poincenot by the Whillans route on November 11 and got to the summit of Saint Exupéry by the Italian route on December 6. On Nov...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Bhutan, Drungso Ri

Drungso Ri. Our recent ?expedition” to Bhutan involved crossing the country from Thinpu in the west to Tashigang in the east. We were doing a research project on endemic goitre and genetics studies. During the five months I reached the northern bo...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Numbur

Numbur. Koreans led by Lee Yeong-Chul made the seventh ascent of Numbur, climbing the southwest ridge to the west ridge. On September 25, Shin In-Sik and Nima Ongchu Sherpa climbed to the summit.Elizabeth Hawley


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Chile, Northern Patagonia, Lake District, Cochamo, Cerro Trinidad and Neighboring Peaks

Cochamo, Cerro Trinidad and neighboring peaks. (Editor’s note: In the 2001 AAJ, p. 300, Ian Parnell gives a summary of a traverse of many ridges in the Cochamo area by Lucy Regan, Brian Bigger, and James Marshall. More information on the traverse ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Gangapurna

Gangapurna. The pre-monsoon Japanese Hachioji expedition had Katsuhiko Miyoshi as leader and Mistuu Hirashima as deputy plus five others. Villagers from Manangbhot threatened them and seized all their cash, some 4000 rupees. Base Camp was at 17,50...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Bolivia, Nevado Nina Collo, South Face

Nevado Nina Collo, South Face. In the third week of June, Britons Angus Andrew and Neil Howells made the first ascent of the south face of Nina Collo (5280 meters, 17,323 feet). The climb was nearly all on ice. The peak is seen prominently from th...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Argentina—Northern Andes, Cerro Tres Quebradas, West Peak

Cerro Tres Quebradas, West Peak. Our Italo-Argentine expedition had as members Italian scientists Francesco Matelli and Claudio Scala and Argentines Orlando Bravo, Juan Abregui, Rodolfo Alonso, José Paliza, Daniel Villagra and me. Between January ...