Tirsuli West (7035 m), first ascent. A team from the Nehru Institute of Mountaineering, led by its vice principal, Maj. Kulwant S. Dhami, attempted this virgin peak in June. Located ca 45 km from Jumma, the road head on the Joshimath-Malari road, ...
Gangstang. A seven-man expedition of the Japanese Alpine Club, led by Tsuneo Suzuki, climbed Gangstang (6162 meters, 20,215 feet) by its southwest ridge. On August 8, T. Ishikawa, H. Honjo, M. Natsume and two high-altitude porters climbed to the t...
KEVIN O’CONNELL1944-1984Kevin O’Connell was killed on Huascarán in the Cordillera Blanca in Peru in July. An intense and prolific climbing career was brought to an end. Widely known in Canada as a mountaineer, lecturer, writer and administrator, K...
Thalay Sagar (6,903m), north face, new route attempt. Ben Gilmore and I attempted a new line on the north face of Thalay Sagar. The line follows the major weakness to the west (right) of the central buttress that was climbed in 1998 by a Russian t...
Spokane Mountaineers. Club membership peaked at 400 during the year. We voted a new ski tow for our Mount Spokane property and now sponsor a ski team under mentor Mark Pinch. We have an effective expedition fund, and our Himalayan library is exten...
Mukut Parbat. An Indian expedition from the Border Security Force led by S.C. Negi made the second ascent of Mukut Parbat (7242 meters, 23,759 feet) at the end of September. Further details are awaited.Kamal K. Guha, Editor, Himavanta, India
Mount Epperly. As we go to press, we have received a report that Mount Epperly has been climbed by Swiss Erhard Loretan.
Memphis Mountaineers. In 1988, the Memphis Mountaineers enjoyed a productive year. The total membership of 66 included 42 regular members residing in the Memphis, Tennessee, area, eight honorary members, and 16 associate members scattered througho...
STRANDED, OFF ROUTE, LATE STARTNew Hampshire, Cannon CliffOn July 24, John (26) and Lisa Tedesco reached a spot close under the Old Man's chin on Cannon Cliff. They could not find the normal exit corner, the Wiessner finish, which is the final pit...
Trango Attempts. A 5-man Japanese expedition led by Tomoyuki Watanabe attempted a new route on the Great Trango Tower to the right of the Norwegian buttress, climbing six pitches, and one of the already climbed routes on the Nameless Tower, but th...
STRANDED, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENTAlberta, Kananaskis Provincial Park, Mount Sir DouglasOn August 29, two climbers ascended Mount Sir Douglas via the East Ridge, alpine grade III, 5.6. Before beginning the route, they had decided they would descend th...
Pic Korona, Various Ascents. It was reported that I. and V. Plotnikov and V. Sergeev from Barnaul in Central Siberia climbed a new route (5A) in the winter on the west spur of Korona and another route (5B) up a series of icefalls on the northwest ...
Nevado de los Patos, Second Ascent. Swiss climber Louis Glauser and I spent several weeks doing mountaineering combined with high-altitude archaeological research. We began in Christmas 1984 in the Chilean side of the Puna. We first explored the n...
Patricia Bowl, Rock Creek Area. Paticia Bowl is a high bowl directly above (northwest) of Rock Creek Lodge. Access is via the trail from just above Rock Creek Lake. On the right (north) side of the bowl is a series of towers on the ridge. E-Ticket...
Mountaineering Dogs. To those already mentioned (A. A. J., ii, 553), one may add the following: H. M. Atkins, who ascended Mont Blanc in 1837, sketched the group of travellers, “not omitting a little dog belonging to Michel Balmat, which accompani...
Balloon Dome. After an abortive attempt in 1971 to find Balloon Dome, I returned in 1974 with the indefatigable Black brothers, Dave and Jim. During a four-day visit we climbed three new routes. West Face: the wall that faces Squaw Dome is dominat...
West Face of Sentinel Rock. After one failure in May, Tom Frost and I returned in June to make the first ascent of the 2000-foot west face. We started the climb at the very base of the wall and during the first day the climbing was about half free...
Savoia Kangri, Attempt. It was reported that Nick Bullock, Julian Cartwright, Jamie Fisher, Ewan and Ruaridh Pringle, Paul Schweizer and Alan Swann (U.K) attempted to make the first ascent of Savoia Kangri (7263m) via the southeast face in July. T...
Khangsar Kang (Roc Noir) Winter Attempt. Seven Koreans led by Lee Dong-Myung were unable to complete the ascent of Khangsar Kang (7485 meters, 24,557 feet), which they attempted by the south face. They got to 6600 meters on December 12.Elizabeth H...
East Face of Lone Pine Peak, Three Arrows. In April Hooman Aprin, Randy Grandstaff and I climbed this route on the sharp eastern rock crest of Lone Pine Peak. The route follows a southeast-facing trough, which occasionally becomes a dihedral, then...