Sudarshan Parbat, East Ridge. Nobuaki Yamada, Hiroyuki Fujimura, Miss Tomoko Maeda, Kensei Ojima, Shigeo Yoneda and I as leader established Base Camp at 4600 meters on May 4. Camps I and II were placed on the Svetvarn Glacier at 5200 and 5800 mete...
FALL ON SNOW-SKI MOUNTAINEERINGWyoming, Grand TetonsOn March 2, while ski-mountaineering, Ben Morley (23) was descending an area near the Southwest Couloir of the Middle Teton on skis. He hit a patch of ice on his skis, lost control, and fell 500 ...
Mt. McKinley. When we, Jaq Lasner, Norm Saunders, and I, all students at U.C.L.A., first thought of trying McKinley, our main consideration was money. By cutting here and there, we finally managed to bring the cost of the climb, from Los Angeles t...
Method and Madness Evolution of Yosemite Face-Climbing StandardsBruce MorrisWhile NOT AS strenuous as some cracks, Yosemite granite face-climbing is an equally demanding technical and intellectual discipline. John Gill is said to have switched fro...
Makalu West Pillar, Winter Attempt. A Polish-Belgian expedition to Makalu was led by Krzysztof Wielicki and composed of Anna Czerwinska, Ryszard Pawtowski and Belgian Ingrid Baeyens. On December 20, they climbed to 7400 meters for acclimatization....
Shiva Temple and Wotans ThroneWalter A. Wood, Jr.THE American Museum of Natural History Grand Canyon Expedition,1 which for brevity’s sake became known as the “Shiva Temple Expedition” or “The Lost World Expedition,” had as its purpose the biologi...
The Temple, Kangaroo Ridge, Cascades. On September 29, 1956, Fred Beckey and Donald Claunch decided to go to the well-known but seldom- visited Kangaroo Ridge area, north of Methon Valley. We drove from Chelan to Twisp and thence up the Twisp Rive...
Colorado—Rocky Mountain—No-Name Basin, Sunlight Peak: On 5 August 1953, a party of eight under the leadership of Dr. Roger S. Whitney set out from the CMC-AAC camp to make the reputedly easy ascent of Sunlight Peak. Approaching the Needle Ridge-Su...
West Virginia, Wolf Gap Recreation Area, East Face of Big Schloss Mtn. On 5 August at about 1545 Dave Templeton (46) of the PATC Mountaineering Section fell 60 feet to his death from a ledge near the top of Big Schloss. He landed head first on som...
Kwangde’s North Face in WinterDavid BreashearsI’M STUNNED DURING A PAUSE to rest while chopping a platform out of the ice below my hammock which is anchored to the north face of Kwangde. Across the valley, miles away, a magnificent scene has swell...
30 Years of Climbing Magazine. Climbing Magazine. Carbondale, CO: Primedia, 1999. 337 pages. $18.95.The Best of Rock & Ice: An Anthology. Dougald MacDonald, Editor. Seattle: The Mountaineers, 1999. 200 pages, black-and-white photographs. $17.9...
STRANDED ON DESCENT – UNABLE TO ASCEND ROPE, INADEQUATE SELFRESCUE SKILLS, COMMUNICATIONS PROBLEMS OVER DISTANCECalifornia, Yosemite Valley, Sons of YesterdayOn June 29, Curt (26) and Sherri (29) (pseudonyms) climbed Serenity Crack (three pitches,...
Everest, Northeast Ridge. Our expedition consisted of climbers Brummie Stokes, leader, Dr. Philip Horniblow, Harry Taylor, Joe Brown, Mo Anthoine, Dr. John English, Pete Long, Ali Kellas, Davy Jones, Ian Nicholson, Trevor Williams, Sam Roberts, Bi...
DUDLEY FRANCIS WOLFE1896–1939Dudley Francis Wolfe was born in Irvington-on-Hudson, New York, February 8, 1896. He disappeared on K2 in the Karakoram Himalayas, in the vicinity of Camp VII, with three Sherpa portersapproximately July 31st, 1939. No...
This is the twenty-eighth Annual Report of the Safety Committee of the American Alpine Club and the fifteenth in conjunction with the Alpine Club of Canada. After several years of able leadership under Dr. Benjamin G. Ferris, Jr., this report has ...
Tahu Rutum, attempt; Korea Youth Sar, possible first ascent. A seven-man Korean expedition led by Shim Kwon-sik attempted the west face of Tahu Rutum (6,651m) but gave up because of heavy snowfall, a porter strike, and other complications. Climber...
GEORGE MacGOWAN1902-1954Friends of George MacGowan were saddened at his passing on November 26, 1954. His death resulted from a coronary thrombosis while playing a game of handball, a sport which he had actively followed for many years. George lea...
Les Montagnes du Monde. Publié par la Fondation Suisse pour l’Exploration Alpine, Zürich. Lausanne: F. Rouge et Cie. Vol. I, 1946. Vol. II, 1947. Also, an edition in German, Berge der Welt. The institute which puts out these volumes has for its pu...
L.C. “JACK” BALDWIN 1921-1986The mountaineering world lost a great leader when, on June 26, Jack Baldwin suffered a fatal heart attack at age 65. Jack was bom in Hood River, Oregon and was a descendent of a pioneer Hood River family. He was educat...
Tents in the Clouds, by Monica Jackson and Elizabeth Stark. London: Collins, 1956. 255 pages; 24 pages of photographs; 5 sketch maps. Price 18 s.Mrs. Monica Jackson, Miss Betty Stark, and Dr. Evelyn Camrass accomplished something new in the way of...