Club Activities AAJ
A.A.C., Blue Ridge Section

A.A.C., Blue Ridge Section. In 1982 this smallest section of the Club was undoubtedly the most active in proportion to its size. Section-sponsored outings were held in the Potomac Gorge and at Seneca Rocks, West Virginia. Members also climbed in t...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Africa, Madagascar, The Sea Cliffs, New Sport Routes

The Sea Cliffs, new sport routes. Michel Piola and Benoit Robert returned to the North Coast for a couple of weeks during June and July to create 66 new pitches on Madagascar’s northern limestone in the vicinity of Diego Suarez. These new sport cl...


Club Activities AAJ
A.A.C., Cascade Section

A.A.C., Cascade Section. Section membership in the States stands at about 160, while another 15 live nearby across the Canadian border. Section meetings, all held at the Mountaineers’ club house, included lectures by Jim Janney describing his clim...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Makalu Attempt

Makalu Attempt. A French expedition led by Yves Estienne had as members Rémi Roux, Jean-Pierre Viallet, Jean-Pierre Maissent, Jean-Marc Peltier, Jean- Claude Cartier, Christian Legay, Giuseppe Fournier and Jacques Germain. They were stopped by hig...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Iran, Elburz Range

Iran. A group of French and Iranian climbers under the leadership of our member Bernard Pierre explored and climbed in the Elburz range. They made several first ascents, including the relatively easy east ridge of Demavend (18,605 feet), which was...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Bolivia, Huayna Potosí, Mururata Sajama

Huayna Potosí, Mururata, Sajama. In June of 1972 the French guides Anselme Baud, Thierry Cardon and Bruno Richard made three new routes: Huayna Potosí by the southwest face1, 3000 feet of very hard ice; Mururata by the southeast spur, 3000 feet of...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Annapurna Attempt

Annapurna Attempt. Six Britons, American Richard Nowack and New Zealander Lester Gray, led by Mal Duff, plus two Sherpas, spent three weeks on the north face of Annapurna, making Camps I and II in snow caves and Camp III at 6500 meters at the top ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, USSR, Pik Kommunizma

Pik Kommunizma. Our 11-member team was composed of Scott Fisher, leader, Wes Krause, Stacey Allison, George Schunk, Brad Udall, Steve Manfredo, Mike Carr, Liz Nichol, Maggie Fox, George Kahrl, and me. Leaving Moscow at midnight, we arrived at the ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Europe, Norway, Lofoten, Austvagoy Island, Vagakallen, Second Ascent of Freya

Austvagoy Island, Vagakallen, second ascent of Freya. Dusan Janak and I arrived on the island of Austvagoy hoping to climb on the big north face of Vagakallen (942m). We were welcomed by six days of perfect weather and made the second ascent of Fr...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, Canadian Arctic, Nunavut, Menhir, Auyuittuq National Park, Baffin Island

Menhir, Auyuittuq National Park, Baffin Island. Though somewhat thwarted by bad weather, we managed to do a new route on Menhir, the prominent triangular peak directly behind the Thor Shelter. On August 10, we climbed a snow gully that leads to th...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, Pre-Existing Condition, Colorado, Eldorado Canyon State Park, Redgarden Wall

FALL ON ROCK, PRE-EXISTING CONDITIONColorado, Eldorado Canyon State Park, Redgarden WallOn Saturday, September 25 Maria Petzolt (26) dislocated her shoulder unexpectedly while pulling on a hold on the fourth pitch of Ruper (5.8), a 6-pitch route o...


Accident Reports ANAM
California, Mt. Ralston

California, Mt. Ralston—On January 1, 1955, Allen Steck (28), Richard Houston, William Dunmire, and Kenneth D. Adam set out for a ski ascent of Mt. Ralston from Echo Lake, above Tahoe. Plans to attempt Pyramid Peak were cancelled because of a rece...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, Brooks Range, Traverse of the Lisburne Peninsula

Traverse of the Lisburne Peninsula. In June, 1995, the traverse of the Lisburne Peninsula was accomplished across the spine of the western Brooks Range descending the Ipewik River to Point Hope. This is the westernmost reach of the American Arctic...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Colorado, Southwestern Colorado Climbing Notes - 1933, Sneffels Section

Sneffels SectionBlaine Peak (12,800 ± ft.) was ascended by the east face. This easy climb was made by T. M. Griffiths, L. V Giesecke, B. M. Souder and the writer.Aiguille Number One (12,900 ± ft.) was first ascended by T. M. Griffiths, L. V. Giese...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Nanga Parbat, Rupal Face Attempt, Schell Route

Nanga Parbat, Rupal Face Attempt, Schell Route. A team of three New Zealanders, an Australian and four Britons was led by New Zealander Guy Halliburton. They were unsuccessful because of excessive powder snow. On May 15, they established Base Camp...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock and Piton Failure—Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Frontal Range, Yamnuska

FALL ON ROCK AND PITON FAILURE.—Alberta, Rocky Mountains Frontal Range, Yamnuska. Jim Bay and Dan Griffiths were climbing the Direttissi- ma on July 1, 1976, and Jim who was leading slipped and fell about 30 feet. His top protection, a soft iron p...


Notes AAJ
Asia, Americans Back from Nepal

Americans back from Nepal. The Nepal expedition led by Dr. Dillon Ripley, of New Haven, and sponsored by Yale University, the National Geographic Society and the Smithsonian Institution, returned to this country with some fine long-range photograp...


Notes AAJ
Alps, Mountaineering Dogs

Mountaineering Dogs. In addition to those already cited, (A. A. J. ii, 553; iii, 113), Mlle. C. E. Engel would add Lutine, the pet of Major Rogers (Le Major Roger et son barometre, A. A. J. ii, 542), who climbed the Chenalette in 1833 and, a few w...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Peru, Cordillera Blanca, Ranrapalca, North Face, Attempt

Ranrapalca, North Face, Attempt. Andrej Markovic and Matej Zorko climbed a line (1000 meters, ED- V 85°) on Ranrapalca (6128 m), in 16 hours on June 6. Most of the route is on snow/ice with a few rock moves. They spent the night 30 meters below th...


Club Activities AAJ
Mountaineering Club of Alaska

Mountaineering Club of Alaska. The Mountaineering Club of Alaska had approximately 600 members in 2001. The club held monthly meetings that featured slide shows on Mt. Everest, exploring the Talkeetna Mountains, Wood Tikchik State Park, Mt. Blackb...