Doug Leen, Roger Johnson and I camped in Penrose Canyon, as advised in Bonney’s guide, and then set out on July 21 to climb the hitherto untouched east face, the longest on the peak, which is probably the most difficult summit between Cloud Peak...
THE CANADIAN ROCKY MOUNTAINSBY Professor Charles E. FayI. Physical CharacteristicsQUITE different task awaited the writer of the second issue of Alpina Americana from that so successfully accomplished by the author of the initial number. The High ...
Black Canyon, various activity. In late April Chip Chace and I linked the opening pitches of the Dylan Wall (IV+ 5.12-) with Charm School Boutique (IV+ 5.13- R) to create the hybrid route Hard Rain, completing what Topher Donahue had referred to i...
Mount Moroni, East Face, Zion National Park. In April, Les Ellison and I climbed a new route on the east face of Mount Moroni. We ascended the steep, blank section of the face which lies between two major chimney systems. The face may be easily se...
Peaks Climbed by the India-Tibet Border Police. For some years the India-Tibet Border Police has been climbing in the Himalaya but they have generally kept from announcing what they have done. Although a few have appeared in print, for the first t...
Southern Wind River Range, New Routes. The Iowa Mountaineers held a mountain camp for 58 members, based at a large meadow beside Clear Lake, in the southern Wind Rivers from August 11 to 22. Eight major peaks were ascended; a number of new routes ...
This is the twentieth report of the Safety Committee and the seventh in conjunction with the Alpine Club of Canada. Data from such accidents that occurred in former years and not previously reported have been incorporated in the statistical tables...
Where in Alaska would two Swiss go to climb but Little Switzerland? On May 16 Lucas Iten and I landed on the Pika Glacier and quickly got to work. Most of the rock was still covered in snow, but we warmed up by repeating The Lost Marsupials (10 ...
Mount Stone, Conrad Group. This attractive 9990-foot snow peak southwest of Mount Conrad, previously unclimbed, was the goal of our group from the Simian Climbing Club (Laura Jasch, Bill Knowler, Gretchen Schoenbohm, and Curt Wagner). From Boulder...
STRANDED, PARTY SEPARATED, WEATHERBritish Columbia, Yoho National Park, Lake O'Hara, Mount BiddleOn August 8, a party of six climbers headed to the West Ridge of Mount Biddle, a 5.4 alpine rock route on the Lake O’Hara area of Yoho National Park. ...
Bugaboo Provincial Park Mountaineering summary and statistics. The 2001 Bugaboo season was blessed with good weather but not many new routes. Rather, a number of older classics were dusted off. Early July saw an attempt at the completion of an aid...
PATRICK DAVID CHAMAY1937-1968Patrick D. Chamay became ill while on a climb of Mount Rainier and died at 13,000 feet on Liberty Ridge. Symptoms indicated his illness was pulmonary edema.Born in France, Pat lived most of his life in the United State...
ROBERT LYON SPURR 1937 - 1995My father, Robert Lyon Spurr, Alaskan mountaineer and mountain runner, was killed on North Maroon Peak outside Aspen, Colorado, on August 11. He apparently lost his footing shortly after beginning his descent and fell ...
United States: Once again there were too many reports of rappel errors (ten) and lowering errors (five). The tragedy of the year was the loss of Todd Skinner, who fell to his death after his harness loop parted while he was rappelling in Yosemite ...
The discerning reader will note that relatively little information on 8000-meter peaks is recorded in the 1999 volume. This is not indicative of a fall-off in the amount of activity on the world’s highest mountains; as with other disciplines of cl...
Mountaineers. The year 1970 was a good one for the Seattle Mountaineers’ Climbing Program. Favorable weather provided a high percentage of climbs successfully completed; enthusiasm of students and instructors alike resulted in a high number of gra...
Mt. Ida and Other ClimbsFREDERICK L. DUNNA history of the northernmost Canadian Rockies, the mountains of the Mt. Ida – Mt. Sir Alexander area, should start well before 1875, for the Cree Indians had recognized the big mountain, Sir Alexander, for...
EDWARD O. NESTER 1938-1978 On a survey of an elegant route on Mount Austerity in the Northern Selkirks of British Columbia, Ed Nester died when a large boulder used for a rappel came loose (a boulder used by many of us over the years, so promine...
Rocky Mountains, by Frank S. Smythe. 4to., 149 pp., 64 photographic plates, 16 in color. London, 1948: A. & C. Black. Price, 30/-.Mr. Smythe has, I think, produced 24 books about mountains and climbing in the last 19 years, including eight qua...
Tornarssuk Island, various ascents. On July 19 Dan O’Brien, Marylise Dufaux, Carl Pulley, Dave Whit- tingham, and I left the U.K. on a multi-stage journey to Tornarssuk Island, near Cape Farewell. Having previously visited Pamiagdluk Island (AAJ 2...