NEVADO CAYESH IS a pinnacle in the Peruvian Andes. The name itself is derived from the Quechua word caye, meaning “to call,” and indeed for me it did just that. Described by John Ricker as “possibly the most spectacular peak in the Cordillera Blan...
Manaslu, Ascent and Tragedy. Michael Zunk went to the 8163-meter summit of Manaslu on May 7 with teammates Joerg Bartock and Steffen Thomas as part of an 11-member German expedition led by Holger Kloss. On the descent, Zunk fell for unknown reason...
Rock Climbing in 1984John StannardIN retrospect the winter of 70-71 was a very desperate time for it was then that most climbers realized that rock climbing in this country was in a very bad way and liable to get much worse. For people accustomed ...
M. ALBERT LINTON1887-1966The Philadelphia group of the American Alpine Club lost one of its most distinguishd members with the death of M. Albert Linton on Monday, May 2, 1966 at his home in Moorestown, New Jersey at the age of 79.He was graduated...
In Brief: Notes from the Banff Mountain Book Festival 2004Twelve years ago North America launched its first mountain literature event: the Banff Mountain Book Festival. Each November the festival celebrates the world’s best mountain and adventure ...
STEVEN CRAIG RISSE1952-1993Seattle-area climber, Steven Craig Risse, with Mark Bebie and Thomas Waarsdorp, died in late March in an attempt to climb Slipstream, an ice route near the Columbia Icefields. The exact cause of their death is unknown.St...
Easily the most noteworthy of the five ascents of the Grand Teton (13,747 ft.) made during the first season of the park (1929) was that via the east ridge, on July 22, by Kenneth A. Henderson and Robert L. M. Underhill, who thus were first to demo...
Grand Teton, North Face Variation. It has been clear to several climbers for several years that the few existing routes and variations on the north side of the Grand Teton did not exhaust the logical possibilities of this famous wall. By studying ...
Cariboo ClimbingSterling Hendricks and Andrew John Kauffman, 2ndTHE seldom visited Cariboos are one of the most northerly and extensive mountain chains of interior British Columbia. They are also known — perhaps officially — as the McLennan Range,...
Salcantay and Soray, Cordillera Vilcabamba, and Huascarán, Pisco, and Yanapaccha Norte, Cordillera Blanca. The Aichiken Mountaineering Association expedition was led by Yukihiko Kato. Other members were Hideo Kato, Hitoo Makino, Isao Asahi, Noriak...
The Wall: A Thriller. Jeff Long. New York: Simon and Schuster, 2006. 294 pages. $24.00.Midway through their lives’ journeys, two former Camp 4 dirtbags, Hugh and Lewis, find themselves in a dark wood at the base of El Cap; the forests and walls of...
Entre Terre et Ciel, by Gaston Rébuffat and Pierre Tairraz. Paris: B. Arthaud, 1962. 183 pages, 104 black and white photographs, 6 color plates. Price 28 N.F.Gaston Rébuffat has written the story of the filming of the motion picture Entre Terre et...
Iowa Mountaineers’ Climbs in Quebrada Ishinca, Cordillera Blanca. In July, 44 members and eight porters, led by John Ebert, climbed in the Quebrada Ishinca. A truck hauled all expedition food and equipment from Huaraz to Colion, whence it was take...
Arizona, Catalina Mountains, Alamo Canyon. (See accident report.) Bryan Castner directed efforts to Finger Rock Canyon, where he indicated that the victim was located. Prior to entering the canyon, Castner discovered his error, and directed the te...
The gullies on the lower northwest face of Mt. Brown (8,365'), in Glacier National Park, have become popular early-season climbs. They offer endless WI 2-4 climbing 15 minutes from the road. Many climbers announce they’re headed to the summit 5,20...
RAPPEL FAILURE, STRANDED, INEXPERIENCECalifornia, Yosemite ValleyOn September 25, 1981 at 3:15 p.m., Rangers Dill, Durr and Reilly responded to a report that Noel Dupre La Tour (27) was stranded at the top of the first pitch of the West Face route...
FALL ON ROCK, NO HARD HATCalifornia, Yosemite National Park, Tuolumne MeadowsOn August 12, Chris Weeldreyer (36) was leading the first pitch (5.9+) of Needle Spoon, a face climb on Pywiack Dome in Tuolumne Meadows, belayed by Henry Cutler. Near th...
JOHN BUCHAN, LORD TWEEDSMUIR (1875-1940)He had so many interests and activities that it is hard to picture him as one man. But to see him as he saw himself, at daybreak, “high up in a snow ridge when the world seems to heave itself out of night in...
Mountaineering in Mongolia Edward R. WebsterIt’s A COMBINATION OF MONT Blanc and Scotland with the remoteness of the Himalaya,” mused Julian Freeman-Attwood upon our first sighting of Mongolia’s Taban Bogdo mountains. After five plane rides, two s...
ALFRED EDGAR ROOVERS 1911-1934On December 15th, 1934, Alfred Roovers was killed in a fall from the cliff at Arden, New York. His serious mountaineering began only three years ago, but in that short period he had made an excellent record of climbs....