Mount Rainier, Willis Wall, Thermogenesis. On the last day of winter March 20, Jerome Eberharter, Jon Olson and I ascended the seldom climbed Willis Wall on Rainier. Jerome christened the new route “Thermogenesis.” It followed the 55° couloir to t...
Steeple Peak, North Ridge and Upper West Face: On September 10 Gerry Holdsworth and I got underway from Clear Lake at six a.m., headed for Deep Lake at the base of Steeple and scrambled up easy slabs to the base of the north ridge. The ridge is br...
FALLING ROCKMissouri, Lake of the Ozarks, Truman ReservoirOn October 6, 1994, Phil Rotterman, Cary Winchester and I arrived at the bluffs that abut the Truman Reservoir. We planned to do some sport climbing on some 80 foot high limestone routes.Af...
Arizona Mountaineering Club. The club conducted two basic schools for beginning rock climbers and a lead school for advanced climbers. There were also courses on anchors and advanced ropework as well as orienteering and a seminar in Flagstaff on w...
Mt. Quadra. The N. (lowest) peak of Mt. Quadra, omitted in the ascent of 1910, was first ascended in 1913 by a party of the A. C. C. from the Vermilion Pass camp, the route not being given (C.A.J. v, 136).
The online version of these reports frequently contains additional photos, maps, topos, and extended text. Please visit aaj.americanalpineclub.orgHelicopter usage. A helicopter whirling overhead on a flight to an expedition’s base camp area is no ...
Mount Sanford, Southwest Rib. Jeff Woods and Wes Krause made the first ascent of the southwest rib of Mount Sanford (4949 meters, 16,237 feet), as reported in Climbing of January-February, 1981. Twenty- two miles from the nearest airstrip on the S...
FALLING WHILE DESCENDING, UNROPED—Washington, The Tooth. David Putnam (19) fell while descending “The Tooth.” He was with Steven White (19) and Gary High (18) when he fell 100 feet down a steep snow and rock slope, coming to rest against a tree. H...
• Alaska: A Climbing Guide (Mountaineers $24.95) by Mike Wood and Colby Coombs is a noteworthy guidebook simply because it’s the first comprehensive guide to 80 routes in eight great ranges in Alaska. As Brian Okonek notes in his foreword, this bo...
Poliak Spire, Cathedral Spires, Kichatna Mountains. Chaiki Hara, Hatuyo Kotaki and I were on the Tatina Glacier from July 20 to August 3. Bad weather drove us off the west face of P 7270 on July 27 and off the south rib of P 7133 on July 30, but H...
Mount Emmerich. On July 29 and 30, with two companions I climbed Mount Emmerich (6405 feet), which is just northwest of Haines. We completed the ascent of the northeast ridge, which had been unsuccessfully attempted by Fred Beckey and party in 197...
FALL ON ROCK UNROPEDBritish Columbia, Rocky Mountains, Mt. AssiniboineGreg Ehren (25) and two companions were climbing the north face of Mt. Assiniboine unroped and were near the summit about 0900 hours on 30 August 1979. Near the top, his compani...
Makalu, Southeast Face. In October, Dan Mazur, Jonathon Pratt, Alex Nikifarov and Andy Collins completed the first alpine-style ascent of the southeast ridge of Makalu (8481 meters). An account of their ascent appears earlier in this journal.
British Expedition. Bill Goodfellow, Peter Pollard, David Winstanley and I climbed in Ecuador from January 3 to February 12. Still unacclimatized, we floundered in soft snow which threatened to avalanche on the steep north face of Illiniza Sur unt...
Mount Rainier, Sunset Amphitheatre Headwall. This highly impressive headwall of Rainier’s Sunset Amphitheatre on the mountain’s west side offers a fairly direct route to Liberty Cap. The route we chose begins near the prominent ice cliff, continue...
Warrior I, North Face, Cirque of the Towers, Wind River Range. Jeff Lowe and I made the first ascent on July 25 and 26. The route begins in the center of the north face and goes directly up into the huge dihedral just to the right of the crest. We...
FALL ON ROCK-NO BELAY, LACK OF COMMUNICATIONAlberta, Banff National Park, Back of the LakeOn June 17, two experienced sport climbers were climbing a 25-meter, 5.11a route called Mardi Gras. G.H. (36) had just finished the route on a top rope, and ...
Peaks in Upper Tos Glacier Region, Kulu. Rowland Perriment, Bernie Jones, Dave Waddington, Pete Sinclair, Jim Byrne, Charlie Self and I visited the upper Tos Glacier region in May and June, 1976. We were accompanied by one local, Rigzing Ladakhi. ...
Mururata and Other Peaks. A truck from La Paz took me to Mina San Francisco at 4300 meters. From this mine I hiked up valley to place a camp south of the west glacier of Mururata (5775 meters, 18,947 feet). On June 4 I reached the summit of this p...
Schweizerland, East Greenland. On July 6 we six members of the Swiss and German Greenland Expedition reached our Base Camp on Tasissarsik Fjord. Our objectives were unclimbed peaks in so-called Schweizerland near Angmagssalik. We carried our gear ...