El Potrero Chico, Overview. The First Annual Potrero Chico Clean-Up and Trail Day in E1 Potrero Chico, Mexico, took place on New Year’s Day. A small turnout of 30 climbers helped remove two truckloads of trash from the base of Space Boyz, a popula...

TABLE II1951-641965Geographical DistrictsNumber of AccidentsDeathsTotal Persons InvolvedNumber of AccidentsDeathsTotal Persons InvolvedCanadaAlberta 14616000British Columbia18832000Yukon Territory101000Quebec 111000United StatesAtlantic — North64...

FALL ON ROCK–PROTECTION FAILED, INADEQUATE PROTECTIONCalifornia, Yosemite Valley, El CapitanOn May 4, Cam McKenzie (26) and I, Scott Ring (25), started up our fixed lines on the Zodiac route (VI 5.7 A2) on El Capitan. We picked up our haul bags wh...

Batura I Winter Attempt. Our expedition had as members Edi Koblüller, Franz Six, Dr. Gustav Ammerer and me. In weeks of winter climbing we got two-thirds of the way up the 12,000-foot south face of Baturi I (7785 meters, 25,540 feet) and reached a...

Echo Point, a rocky island, located on the end of an arm extending into the Black Canyon, was finally gained by T. M. Griffiths, Charles Kane, Gordon Williams, and Wm. Macomber. It had been attempted many times before without success.

Colorado, Front Range, Gray’s Peak. On 12 May Thomas J. Le Mire (23), Allen Falls (21), and Jim Davis (20) were climbing in the Gray’s- Torries Peaks area near Georgetown, Colorado. Le Mire became separated from the other two. The clouds came down...

AVALANCHEBritish Columbia, Selkirk MountainsA neurosurgeon from Mercer Island and a noted mountaineer from Spokane, Washington, were killed on February 4, 1986, when an avalanche buried them while they were helicopter skiing in British Columbia’s ...

Kamet and Abi Gamin. In the pre-monsoon period, I led an expedition to Kamet. We left Joshimath on May 28 in two separate groups. One, led by Captain S.B. Dalai, went to the virgin west face. Captain Dalai, Naik Dhan Singh and Naik Rajinder Singh ...

Dhaulagiri, East Face in Winter. Swiss climbers Erhard Loretan, Jean Troillet, Pierre-Alain Steiner and Pierre Morand began activity on November 21 when they left their Base Camp to begin carries to the foot of the east face. They wanted to do the...

Waseda University Mount McKinley Expedition. Don Sheldon flew the Japanese Waseda University group to the 8000-foot level on May 1 and 2. On May 6, from their 13,200-foot camp, they climbed the west buttress route as high as 14,100 feet and then c...

Shivling North Face Ascent and West Ridge Tragedy. Our joint expedition had 15 Czechoslovakian and three German climbers. From Gangotri we set out with 10 porters and 15 horses and got to Base Camp at Tapovan a day later. To acclimatize, we decide...

Mt. Pissis, Southwest Face and first winter ascent; Cerro Veladero, West Route and first winter ascent.On September 16 Guillermo Glass, Rolando Linzing, and I reached the summit of Mt. Pissis (6,882m), the second highest mountain in the Andes, for...

The Image. This northern offshoot of the Bivouac-Raynolds ridge was first climbed by Jack Davis, Redwood Fryxell, Nick Ellena, and Julie Peterson August 20, 1957 by the moderate northeast ledges. This is the higher and more southerly of the two Im...

Kangchenjunga Solo Attempt. I was accompanied to Base Camp at 5050 meters at Pang Pema, which we reached on October 10, by Jean-Yves Goutte, Mlle Monique Loscos and Jean-Louis Teyssier. I attempted the 1980 Japanese route, placing Camps I and II a...

Lost Pinnacle. Between the chain of lakes and Sunlight Basin lies a small area of granite faces and pinnacles. On a warm weekend in August I hiked into the area and crossed wobbly boulders, raging creeks, and fought my way through vicious thorned ...

FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION Wisconsin, Devil’s Lake State ParkOn July 25,1986, Beth Haynes (21) and Amy Solomon (27) were climbing Schizophrenia when Haynes, who was leading, fell to the ground from near the top of the route, a distance of...

Lhotse Attempt. A Spanish expedition led by Juan Fernando Azcona attempted to climb Lhotse via the west face. They reached 7650 meters on October 4 before having to retreat.Elizabeth Hawley

FALLING ICE, POOR POSITION, MISCOMMUNICATION Utah, Little Cottonwood CanyonOn June 2, 1988, Michael Franklin (42) and Carl Wilmarth (36) were climbing “Great White Icicle” and were at the belay with one pitch to go.While sorting out at the belay a...

FALL ON ROCK, CHOCK PULLED OUT, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, INEXPERIENCEWashington, Icicle Creek CanyonOn April 15, I could not complete a lead in mid-afternoon and was down climbing/being lowered when the top protection pulled out. The chock hit me in...

Mount Rainier National Park (1)—At approximately 1:00 p.m. on July 15, 1954, a summit party led by Mountain Guide, James Whittaker, was descending the Cowlitz Glacier, just below the Beehive, to Camp Muir. About 12 inches of snow had fallen 10 day...