American Ascents of 8000-Meter Peaks as of August 31, 1992. Gasherbrum I (Hidden Peak): July 5, 1958 by Andrew Kauffman and Peter Schoening (First Ascent). Everest: May 1, 1963 by James Whittaker. Numerous subsequent US climbs, giving a total of 6...

I love first ascents. You climb with no hurry and in good company. You think creatively, choosing the line. You are the one who decides whether to use bolts or not. A special pleasure is to make the first ascent of a wall, finding the most beautif...

Tarke Kang (Glacier Dome). Our expedition was made up of Lee Seok-Ho, Yoon Jong-Ho, Back Jin-Kook, Kim In-Suk and me as leader. We climbed Tarke Kang (Glacier Dome) from the north. Base Camp was established at 4600 meters on September 2. Camps I, ...

WEATHER - STRANDEDWashington, Mount RainierTwo climbers, Mrs. Mariana Burceag and Mr. Daniel Vlad (ages unknown), suffering from hypothermia and frostbite, were airlifted from Camp Muir on Mount Rainier at 6:15 a.m. on June 18 by a Chinook helicop...

Chacraraju and Taulliraju, Cordillera Blanca. The Frenchmen, Lionel Terray, Maurice Davaille, Claude Gaudin, Dr. Pierre Souriac, Robert Sennelier, and Maurice Martin, and the Swiss, Raymond Jenny, left Jungay, ascended the Quebrada de Llangunuco a...

Saser Kangri. India’s highest previously unclimbed peak, Saser Kangri (25,170 feet) was ascended by an Indo-Tibetan Border Police expedition led by Lieutenant Commander Joginder Singh. Dawa Norbu, Thondup, Nima Tenzing and Dawa Tenzing reached the...

Altai Range. The members of the British Altai Expedition were Duncan Tunstall, Phillip Thomas, Paul Allison and I as leader. The Altai Range is in Southern Siberia near the Mongolian border. The journey from Moscow was undertaken via two domestic ...

Little Sister (4,206m), Middle Sister (4,341m), Big Sister (4,492m), Zeus (4,747m), Daisy (4,239m), Snow King (4,580m), first ascents; Rock Dragon (4,597m), attempt. Andy Barret from the U.K. and I from Cyprus arrived in Kyrgyzstan on September 23...

TABLE IIINumbers Refer to Number of Persons Involved1951-731959-7319741974U.S.A.CAN.U.S.A.CAN.TerrainRock1221102643Snow62698423River5000Unknown10200Ascent or DescentAscent928116494Descent80577422Unknown129810Immediate CauseFall or slip on rock6755...

Lhotse, south face, winter attempt. The Japan Alpine Club Tokai Section accomplished a remarkable ascent to open a new route from the west ridge to the west face of K2 in 1997. What would be most appropriate for the next target? It didn’t take muc...

Katkar Valley, Skilma Kangri (5,979m), north face and west ridge; Mt. Jules (5,800m), south face. In late summer Al Boardman, Jane Cooper, Elliot Forge, and I set out to explore the remote Katkar Valley, hoping to reach its head. To reach our lake...

FALL ON SNOW/ICE, PLACED NO PROTECTION, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENTAlaska, Mount McKinley, West ButtressOn April 21, 1995, the “Angove-McKinley Expedition” departed from Talkeetna for the 7,200 foot base camp on Mount McKinley. United States Naval Office...

A five-hour walk northward from Gokyo along the right bench of the Ngojumba Glacier brought us to a plateau commanding a good view of Everest, Cho Oyu, Gyachung Kang, and Hungchi (7,036m). We proceeded to base camp, which had an entire view of Hun...

RONALD E. FEAR 1943-1973During the last few years, Ron’s parents only saw glimpses of their son as he returned home from one expedition to exchange gear and clothes so he could leave on another. He managed to pack more expeditions into his 29 year...

Fida Brakk, northwest ridge, Jenga Spur. “Isn’t there anywhere else you can climb?” “Good to have known you.” Reactions to us traveling to Pakistan were not generally positive, but my experience the previous year, and that of every climber I know ...

Buttress 5,650m, first ascent, via west face (Million Indian Stars); Pt 5,750m (“Grandfather Enzo Peak”), south face-southeast ridge. In August an Italian expedition led by Massimo Marcheggiani, and which included Nadia Benedettini, Mariano Fabriz...

Mahindra, middle summit, Ashoka’s Pillar; Peak 5,960m; Orange Tower. After long and crazy travel days, including a ride from a fellow named Happy, Freddie Wilkinson, Pat Goodman, and I thankfully found the end of the road in the small Himalayan vi...

Chacraraju, West Peak. It was reported that Spaniards Simon Elias and Luis Angel Rojo repeated the Bouchard Route on the south face of the west peak (1000 meters, 85°). They also ascended the Pirámid Garcilaso by its southwest face (900 meters, 85...

AAC, Alaska Section. The Alaska Section got a jolt of energy from the AAC Board Meeting in Anchorage in April 2001.I was chosen as the new chair just before the board meeting. During the rest of the year, I worked to renew interest in the Club and...

Turret Peak and Mt. Warren. Some variations may have been added to the established routes which start from the saddle connecting these peaks. An ascent of Turret from the saddle (Elsie Col) was made during a severe snow squall by John Speck, Paul ...