Buenos aires … the customs official, fat and red-faced, squinted at us through his spectacles; he looked down at the impressive sheaf of papers already plastered with official stamps. With a solemn nod, one more stamp, his initials, then a hand...
Everest, West Ridge Winter Attempt, 1984-5. [Details were missing when A.A.J., 1985 went to press.—Editor. ] An expedition of the French including leader Eric Dossin, Bernard Francou, Vincent Fine, Benoît Chamoux and Dr. Olivier Callande, Italian ...
FALL ON ICE–NO BELAYCalifornia, Sierra Nevada, Mount DanaOn October 12, my wife, Ann (28) and I, Pedro Frigola (28), attempted a one-day ascent of Mount Dana via Dana Couloir, a popular 1,000-foot ice climb rated Class 4 ice/snow. Dana Couloir lie...
Quest for Adventure. Chris Bonington. Hodder and Stoughton, London, 1981. 448 pages, black-and-white and color photographs, maps, glossary, bibliography. £19.95.Climbers will know something of Messner’s solo ascent of Nanga Parbat, just as sailors...
La Mascara, For A Few Dollars More!, New Route. In 1994, we were lucky to be the first climbing team to climb in the Bader Valley. We were also the first climbing team to have to pay the new climbing fee to CONAF. We made the first ascent of the e...
FALL ON ROCK, BELAY DEVICE DIFFICULTIES Arizona, SedonaOn December 3,1986, Pete Sinfield (28) was leading the second pitch of “Chapel Ruin” (5.9), a left-facing dihedral protected by a thin crack to its right. The climb is in coarse-grained red sa...
The North American Andean Expedition 1959Leigh Ortenburger and David L. Dingman Part I: The Quebrada HondaAs late as 1952 it could be said that there were only two or three Americans who were at all acquainted with the Cordillera Blanca of Peru. T...
On July 15 Chris Chitty, Ari Menitove, and I departed for Nanortalik, taking a week to arrive from the States. From there we traveled by boat into the Tasermiut Fjord. The ride proved spectacular as we passed enormous sea cliffs and coastal peaks....
The Mountain World, edited by Marcel Kurz for the Swiss Foundation for Alpine Research, Zurich. 220 pages, 64 illustrations, folding panorama, maps, and sketches. New York: Harper & Brothers, 1953. Price, $6.00.This is an important book, attra...
Considered in relation to the tens of thousands of climbs made by members and non-members of mountaineering organizations throughout North America, the number of mountaineering accidents each year is relatively small. The tragic fact remains, howe...
Mt. McKinley 1942Robert H. BatesBROKEN clouds shrouded the Alaska Range as our Air Transport Command plane touched down on the wet tarmac at Fairbanks with a cargo of equipment and the final members of the Alaska Test Expedition. At two in the mor...
FALLING ROCK, FALL ON ROCK Labrador, Nain, Mount SophieOn August 10, 1988, at 1000, Yves (32) and Mike (45) were on the first pitch of an attempted first ascent on Mount Sophie. Yves is an experienced climber, Mike less so. Yves, leading, put a #9...
Athabaska PassBradley B. Gilman(No ballad—no sonnet, but a very few brief lines* suggested by a trip up the Whirlpool River in July 1952.)High in the Canadian mountains lies a tiny lake,Nestled between two giant ice-clad guards;It hangs upon the h...
Overview and new routes. During 2004 there were significantly fewer climbers in Bolivia than in previous years. Political instability may have contributed, as in September 2003 many visitors were stranded in the town of Sorata, in the northern Cor...
Nanga Parbat Attempt. A Japanese expedition of five climbers led by Tadakiyo Sakahara made an attempt to climb the first-ascent route on the Rakhiot side of Nanga Parbat. After establishing Base Camp on June 28, they placed four more camps on the ...
Fast Ascents of the Nose, El Capitan. Nancy Feagin and Sue McDevitt climbed the Nose on El Capitan in 17 hours. They were the first female pair to make the climb in a single day. The mixed team of Lynn Hill and Hans Florine climbed the route in 8 ...
This is the forty-fourth issue of Accidents in North American Mountaineering and the thirteenth that has been done jointly by the American Alpine Club and The Alpine Club of Canada.Canada: Several of the accidents in 1990 involved solo climbers, t...
Once Around EverestNed GilletteEVEREST, the “third pole”, is still the ultimate lodestone for most mountaineers. While climbers are seeking new ways to gain the summit, Jan Reynolds and I decided to put a different twist into our expedition to the...
Trono Blanco, Hoja de Rosa; Cuerno Norte, Dentelle de Roche; Cerro Cat- edral, Escoba de Dios, second ascent. In late February and March 2007 a team from the Equipe National de Jeunes Alpinistes (ENJA) visited the Valle del Frances in the heart of...
As with any expedition to a super-remote corner of the world, our expedition to Baffin Island forces us to keep the fear factor in check. This isn’t proving to be easy. Fear is an emotion that can all too often become all- consuming, coursing th...