Traverse of Marvin Peninsula, Ellesmere Island. We succeeded in crossing the entire Marvin Peninsula from the British Empire Range to Ward Hunt Island, despite heavy snowstorms. From Base Camp on McClintock Sound, we spent two days working 12 mile...
Nanga Parbat, Schell Route. Our 19-member expedition included Silvo Babic, Robi Držan, Marija Frantar, Janez and Urban Golob, Steve House, Dragan Ilic, Tomo Jesenicnik, Gregor Justin, Ivan Kotnik, Željko Knez, Darinka Lecnik, Anton Pavic, Dr. Mira...
Swiss around Kangchenjunga. A Swiss expedition to the region of Kangchenjunga was reported from India in April 1949. Members were Alfred Sutter, René Dittert, Mme. Annalies Lohner and Dr. Wyss-Dunant, with the guides Adolf Rubi and Jacob Pargetzi....
Eiger. As for the past few years, many attempts were made to climb the N. face of the Eiger, and as has been usual, the name, Eigerwand, as the head of a dispatch has meant a tale of disaster, injury and death. A number of parties appeared on the ...
The Merry-Go-Round of My Life: An Adventurer’s Diary. Richard Hechtel. Vantage Press, New York, 1991. 219 pages, 10 black-and-white photographs. Hard cover. $13.95.Richard Hechtel’s climbing memoirs were first published in 1989 by Bruckmann Press ...
WEATHER, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENTCalifornia, Yosemite Valley, El CapitanOn Saturday, November 22, Tim Burnett (26) and Chris Abbott (45) arrived in the Valley for a climb of the Nose. At the Visitor Center the forecast was for clouds but no major stor...
Everest, summary of events during the pre-monsoon season. Once upon a time—a decade ago— everyone knew that the period of good weather for summiting Everest was between May 5 and 15. Commercial expedition leaders set from the 6th to the 10th as th...
EXPOSURE, EXHAUSTION, HYPOTHERMIA, INEXPERIENCE, BAD WEATHERAlaska, Mt. McKinleyOn May 15, 1980, Manfred Loibl and Margaret Huschke (ages unknown) of Munich, Germany, were flown to the Kahiltna Glacier on Mt. McKinley by Talkeetna Air Taxi. The co...
Jannu, northwest face, attempt. Toward the end of September, I made a discreet attempt on a new line up the left side of the northwest face of Jannu (7,710m). There were many difficulties for me and my trekking partner, Antoni, to overcome before ...
Mulkilà IX, North Face. The Lahul 1995 expedition was organized by the alpinism school Bruno Dodi of the Piacenza department of the Italian Alpine Club to celebrate its 25th anniversary. The adventure started July 28 and finished August 26, 1995. ...
In one of the more remote valleys of that sub-arctic rain forest called the Canadian Rockies there is a mountain wall which acts like a strong drug on the mind of the observer. So dark, sheer, and gloomy is the North Face of North Twin, like a b...
Mt. Nevermore, East Face, The Call of the Raven. In June, Mike Houston (a.k.a. Mausen) and brothers Doug and Jed Workman flew to the Tatina Glacier and spent 40 days in Alaska’s Kichatna Spires, making the first ascent of the east face of Mt. Neve...
Ama Dablam, North to South Traverse. It was reported that a team of climbers summited Ama Dablam via the north ridge and descended along the southwest ridge. The north ridge had not seen a successful ascent in 13 years, but on October 19 Friedl Hu...
Twin Sister High Route. An easily accessible alpine training ground during the 1980s, the Twin Sister Range on the western edge of the Mt. Baker Wilderness is now isolated behind miles of private and gated logging lands. From May 12-14 Mark Allen,...
Ann Brooks Carter, 1917–2011Ann Brooks Carter was born into a loving Quaker family in Medford, Massachusetts, on February 10, 1917. After graduation from Smith College in 1938, she taught at the Shady Hill School in Cambridge, which she had attend...
Let My People Go Surfing: The Education of a Reluctant Businessman. Yvon Chouinard. New York: Penguin Press, 2005. 261 pages. Hardcover. $26.95. This review assignment made me nervous. I have to pass judgment on a book by climbing legend and envi...
Everest Southwest FaceChristian BoningtonI knew there was something wrong the moment Martin Boysen started speaking on the radio. It was 7:30 in the evening of September 26 and in the last three hours the tension had been steadily mounting at Camp...
Lighting Out. Daniel Duane. Greywolf Press, St. Paul, Minn. 1994. Softcover. 292 pages. $12.00.Rarely is a book reviewed in this Journal with such literary heavyweights on its back cover as A.R. Ammons (whose Garbage is arguably the best long poem...
Training Mountain Troops in the Canadian RockiesRex GibsonAT the urgent request of the editor I am addressing myself for the third time to the task of writing an account of a most interesting military experiment, namely, the training of the Lovat ...
Robert Hicks Bates 1911–2007Bob Bates and I were close friends for more than 70 years. We began climbing together in the 1930s in the quarries around Boston and in Northern New England under the tutelage of some of the best climbers in the Northea...