Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Greenland, Schweizerland, Various Ascents

Schweizerland, Various Ascents. It was reported that an Italian expedition of Luigi Airone, Paolo Cavagnetto, Fabio Jacchini, Ercole Passera, Allessandro Quagliolo and Cesare Racaschietto skied from Tasilaq with 100-kilo pulkas to the mountains ar...


Feature Article AAJ
High-Altitude Research Atop Canada's Highest Peak

High-Altitude Research Atop Canada’s Highest PeakJoseph C. LabelleAssisted by Charles S. Houston, M.D.In 1967 the Arctic Institute established a high-altitude research station on Mount Logan and began a long-range study of high-altitude physiology...


Feature Article AAJ
The Living Giants of Kamchatka

The Living Giants of KamchatkaJosef Dobkin, Wilderness Club, Novosibirsk, Siberia, USSRFOR AN HOUR AND A HALF I was unable to keep my eyes away from the window of the airplane. I was gazing at the majesty of the white pyramids of the Kamchatka vol...


Feature Article AAJ
Emerging from the Mists, The sublime alpine peaks of Sikkim, India

Emerging from the mistsThe sublime alpine peaks of Sikkim, India.By Roger PayneThe former Himalayan kingdom of Sikkim is one of the most varied, beautiful, and compact regions of the Himalayas. Now a state in the northeast corner of India, Sikkim ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Bolivia, One-day Climbs, Cordillera Real

One-day Climbs, Cordillera Real. It is possible to climb Andean peaks in a single day from La Paz. On my first season back in Bolivia after an absence of ten years, I took advantage of this unique situation and accumulated nine such climbs, as wel...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, Alaska Range, Denali National Park and Preserve, summary

Denali National Park and Preserve, summary. The 2001 climbing season finished on a great note this year, with safe and successful experiences enjoyed by climbers, guides, and pilots, as well as the National Park Service. In fact long-time park emp...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Peaks above Gazin Gol

Peaks above Gazin Gol. Munetsugu Nieda of the Gakushuin University Expedition led Mayayuki Tokita and Shigeo Chigira. They left Chitral on July 7 and traveled through Moroi, Brep and Gazin up the Gazin Gol to the Golash Gol where they established ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Dhaulagiri II

Dhaulagiri II. An expedition of the Aichi Mountaineering Federation failed to climb Dhaulagiri II (24,775 feet). It consisted of Hiroshi Sugita, leader: Jujin Oki, Akira Kato, Kazuo Hiramatsu, Yutaka Hirose, Masayoshi Osawa, Tatsuya Amano, and Nob...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, Tordrillo Mountains, Mt. Gerdine, Northwest Ridge and Various Activity

Mt. Gerdine, Northwest Ridge and various activity. On April 4 Johnny Soderstrom, Zach Shlosar, and I flew in with Paul Roderick of Talkeetna Air Taxi. Flying into this fairly unexplored area was quite an experience, being surrounded by untouched g...


Accident Reports ANAM
Rocky Mountains of Colorado: (3) Kreuger Rock (near Estes Park)

Rocky Mountains of Colorado: (3) Kreuger Rock (near Estes Park). On 31 July 1948 Donald and Ralph Vodicka (15 and 17) were climbing on a rock spire called Kreuger Rock, near Estes Park. This pinnacle is easily climbed on one side; on the others, i...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Annapurna III, Southwest Face Attempt

Annapurna III, Southwest Face Attempt. Our expedition was made up of Guillem Arías, leader, Manuel Benavent, Josep Fuste, Joan Oliva, Dr. Anton Rañe and me. We left Pokhara on September 17. We prepared the route with fixed rope beyond Machapuchare...


Book Reviews AAJ
Baltoro

Baltoro, by Prof. Dr. Gunter O. Dyhrenfurth and others (Hettie Dyhrenfurth, Hans Ertl, André Roch). 194 pages, 202 photographs ; 3 drawings: accompanying folder containing 4 panoramas, 50 sketches, 4 maps. Basel: Bruno Schwabe & Co., 1939.For ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Tirich Mir East, East Ridge

Tirich Mir East, East Ridge. The Polish-Yugoslavian expedition to Tirich Mir East was organized by the Klub Wysokogórski in Katowice and the Planinsko Društvo in Domižale, Yugoslavia. The leader was Stanislaw Rudzinski. Of the 60 volunteers, the...

| Keywords
| Published 1978 | Author Stanislaw Rudziński


Feature Article AAJ
The Ascent of Orizaba

The Ascent of OrizabaRollin T. ChamberlinON the brow of the Mexican Plateau, overlooking Vera Cruz and the Gulf from a distance of three score miles and ten, stands the isolated volcanic cone, Orizaba, the loftiest peak in North America, outside t...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Wyoming, Wyoming Rockies, Teton Range

Wyoming Rockies Teton RangeWith each season the Teton Range of Wyoming becomes more firmly established as a climbing center. In 1934 there were accomplished in these mountains 103 ascents as against the previous maximum of 73 (for 1933). As usual ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, California, Sierra Nevada, Adam's Rib

Adam’s Rib. Early in 1971 Doug Robinson and I climbed a 1000-foot tower on Wheeler Crest named “The Smokestack.” It proved to be the most continuously difficult free climb of its length that either of us has encountered. Adam’s Rib is an equal-siz...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, Chugach Mountains, Mt. Marcus Baker, Sanctuary Ridge

Mt. Marcus Baker, Sanctuary Ridge. After abandoning our original objective, the northwest ridge of Mt. Marcus Baker (13,176'), because of extremely fractured rock at 8,400', we cast about for an alternative objective. We selected a rib dividing th...


Feature Article AAJ
Climbs in the New Zealand Alps

Climbs in the New Zealand AlpsPETER ROBINSONon December 24, 1955, I arrived in New Zealand to take up a Fulbright Scholarship for the study of geology at the University of Otago, Dunedin. In Dunedin I was welcomed by our honorary member, Professor...


In Memoriam AAJ
Fritz Lippmann, 1921-1977

FRITZ LIPPMANN 1921-1977Fritz Lippmann died on May 13, 1977, of metastatic cancer, after a long and debilitating illness. His climbing career started in the late 1930’s, and he became identified in 1940 as a member of a California climbing quartet...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Africa, Madagascar, Andringitra National Park, Tsaranoro Atsimo, Southeast Spur, Life in a Fairy Tale

Tsaranoro Atsimo, Southeast Spur, Life in a Fairy Tale. In September, Mark Wilford, Silvia and Craig Luebben and non-climbers Lane Ahem and Dhasa Bishop traveled to the Tsaranoro Massif in southern Madagascar. The climbers ascended three classic T...