Mt. Fay. The early history is of interest. The name was first applied to the present Mt. Bident about 1900, and when C. S. Thompson made the first ascent in 1903, he sent the summit stone to Professor Fay as a souvenir. The Dominion Topographical ...
Mount St. Elias Traverse. On June 8 George Bolling, Kelly Creamer, Dick Dietz, Rob Leitz and I flew to Yakutat, Alaska with the intention of climbing Mount St. Elias by the south ridge. We wanted to leave open the possibility of sending two of our...
LOSS OF CONTROL IN A VOLUNTARY GLISSADE—Washington, Emmans Glacier. Dean Klapper (33) was killed in a fall from the 13,000-foot level of the Emmans Glacier while climbing with four friends. (Source: Seattle Post-Intelligencer, ’’July 8, 1977.)
• Desire & Ice: Searching for Perspective Atop Denali (National Geographic Press $16.00) is a description of David Brill’s guided climb of Denali. Well-researched and lucidly written, this is highly recommended for would-be climbers attempting...
Mount Deborah, West Face and South Ridge. In May John Ellsworth, Chris Topher and I were landed at 6000 feet on the Yanert Glacier. Two days later we had established a direct route through the first and second icefalls, the upper maze of crevasses...
Mount Logan, Winter Ascent. Mike Hill, Troy Ness, and I did the first winter ascent of Mount Logan on December 29, 1981. From Junction Camp, we ascended and ran the ridge on Soldier Boy to the base of a steep couloir, where we made our high camp o...
Makalu, Normal Route. It was reported that a seven-member Dutch team led by Reinier Zuidhoff reached 6850 meters in the post-monsoon season. They were forced to turn back because of avalanche danger. (High Mountain Sports 161)
Mount Bonneville, West Face Crack and West Face of South Summit. On first viewing the west face of Bonneville, Tony Qamar and I were impressed by the vertical chimney which runs straight up the face to the forepinnacle northwest of the main summit...
Kabru Dome, Sikkim. The Indian Mountaineering Foundation sponsored an expedition to Kabru Dome (6600 meters, 21,654 feet) through the Himalayan Mountaineering Institute of Darjeeling. It was one of the selection camps for the members, both men and...
Shadow Nose, Mineral Canyon. Just above the standard take-out point for those who run Labyrinth Canyon is a north-facing buttress. In June Dave Mondeau and I put up Shadow Nose (III, 5.9, A1) on this buttress. The route follows long pure Friend cr...
Climbs in Bill’s Pass Area. There are a number of prominent pinnacles on the ridges southwest of Bill’s Pass, which were apparently unclimbed. On August 2 Gay Campbell, Lorrie Hough, Stan Fuka and I climbed one of them, the highest or second highe...
Gasherbrum IV Attempt. Todd Bibler, Don Frederickson, Matt Kerns, Craig McKibben, Jim Nelson, Dr. Charles Scherz and I as leader began the trek to Base Camp from Bongla on June 12 and arrived there some days later. We spent 2½ weeks ferrying loads...
Kohe Shakhaur, Kohe Nadir Shah, M2 and M3, 1978. On July 31, 1978 our expedition from Brno placed Base Camp at 13,000 feet in the Shakhaur valley. We climbed alpine-style, making mostly new routes. Our first climbs for acclimatization were west of...
Bubuli-Mo-Tin, Ultar Group. Jacques Maurin and I made the first ascent of a 6000-meter (19,685-foot) tower, a satellite of the Ultar group on May 22. It lies southwest of Bojohaghur Duan Asir between the Ultar and Hasanabad Glaciers. We ascended n...
Bauljuri. Bauijuri (19,429 feet) in the Nanda Devi group was climbed on September 30 by a nine-member Nainital Mountaineering Club team. Among the group were Girish Sah, leader, Anup Sah and Sundaranand.Kamal K. Guha, Himalayan Club
Gangotri II Tragedy. An Indian expedition led by Nabanu Banerjee had hoped to climb Gangotri II. On September 28, three climbers and three porters climbed to Camp III but were never seen again. Two bodies were later found near Camp I.
A.A.C., Rocky Mountain Section. During the year the section did not sponsor any activities other than our (usually) annual dinner. This year’s took place at Writers Manor, Denver, on October 20, with an illustrated talk on a recent expedition to t...
Makalu Attempts. Again there were many expeditions to Makalu, mostly on the southeast ridge. Koreans led by Kim Kwan-Jun reached 7200 meters on September 26 and Japanese led by Kenji Shimakata got to 7050 meters on November 8. Japanese Kazufumi Wa...
MOUNTAINEERING HISTORYThe Mountaineering of Emperor Hadrian. The Greeks believed that Mt. Etna was either the mountain with which Zeus crushed the giant Typhon, or the workshop of Hephaestus and the Cyclops. The later Romans had begun to explain i...
Negruni Group, Chachacomani, Tiquimani, Illimani, Cordillera Real. The Upper Austria Friends of Nature Expedition left for La Paz on May 24. We were Rudolf Wurzer, leader, Willi Bauer, Manfred Edlinger, Leo Kerschbaumsteiner, Reinhard Streif and I...