El Mocho, New Route. It was reported that the Germans Jorn Heller and Robert Jasper climbed a new route on the north side of this formation, giving it a grade of VI+ with ice sections up to 95°. (High Mountain Sports July 1995.)
Tigers of the Snow: How One Fateful Climb Made the Sherpas Mountaineering Legends. Jonathan Neale. New York: St. Martin’s Press. 2002. 336 pages. Hardcover. $26.95.Through the lens of the repeated German attempts on Nanga Parbat between 1932 and 1...
Half Dome, New Routes. Eric Coomer, Bryan Law and I developed some new aid lines on the far right side of the northwest face of Half Dome in 1999.I began solo in late May, carrying several loads of wall gear up the Bushido gully while it was still...
Mana. We had to turn back from a point 300 feet below the summit of Mana (23,860 feet) in 1961 because of bad weather. We tried to climb it by the north face although Frank Smythe reached the summit in 1937 from the south. There were 12 members of...
On July 23, at 10:30, Michael Munsch (34) was leading the fourth pitch (5.6) on the Sykes Sickle route (III 5.9+) on Spearhead. He climbed 20 feet above the belay ledge, placed a “marginal” piece of protection, and continued another five to ten fe...
The Munich Andean ExpeditionWOLFGANG WEINZIERL, Deutscher Alpenverein Translated by H. ADAMS CARTERAT LONG LAST! For the firsttime we could see the “White Cordillera” running diagonally away into the distance. We felt numb as the icy cold penetrat...
Siguniang National Park, Suang Qiao Gou Valley: Mi Mi Shan (5,018m), first ascent; Heart of Cow (Niuxim Shan) (4,942m), north face, first ascent. Giant pandas and Chinese acrobats swung the balance. After being inspired by Tomatsu Nakamura’s splen...
The Fin WallExploring a little-known Alaskan giant.Freddie WilkinsonPaul didn’t even turn off the engine. The plane just sat there waiting, humming along in the silence of the Yentna Glacier. Ben Gilmore, Peter Doucette, and I stumbled around in t...
Mixed Emotions. Greg Child. The Mountaineers, Seattle, 1993. 256 pages. $14.95 (paper).Stories off the Wall. John Roskelley. The Mountaineers, Seattle, 1993. Color and black-and-white photographs. 223 pages, $22.95.Together these books provide a g...
When in Doubt, Go Higher: Mountain Gazette Anthology, M. John Fayhee, editor, (Mountain Sports Press $18.95) collects together essays from 1972-’79 along with a few selections from the new MG, relaunched in 1999. AAJ readers will recognize David R...
British Columbia, Mount Waddington—A Canadian party consisting of Derrick Boddy, John Owen, Elfrida Pigou and Joan Stirling disappeared between July 30 and August 1, while attempting an ascent of Mount Waddington, and are presumed to have been kil...
Ranrapalca, Northeast Ridge Attempt. Our team was almost the same as in 1973: Mile. Renée Turc, Gerard Maillard, Dr. Christian Hurbin and I. This July we got to a point about 425 feet below the north summit of Ranrapalca (19,948 feet). Our high ca...
University Peak, Northeast Face. The unclimbed slabs of the northeast face of bulky University Peak glistened as Joe Brown, Dan Clements, and I hiked up the popular Kearsarge Pass Trail, and then veered off to Slim Lake to camp. It seemed strange ...
PRE-EXISTING MEDICAL CONDITION–FAILURE TO INFORM GUIDESAlaska, Mount McKinley, West ButtressOn June 16, John Cloe (59), a client of a guided Rainier Mountaineering, Inc., expedition began experiencing chest pain the late afternoon while climbing t...
Genyen, North Spur; Sachun, east face, attempt. When we left Italy, we possessed only a few satellite photos and little information on the region we had chosen for our adventure. We traveled to the area by jeep on ever-worsening roads. The last da...
An Attempt on Mt. Robson. In July 1951 John Oberlin, A. E. Creswell and Fred Ayres attempted the Schauffelberger arête on Mt. Robson, but turned back at about 11,200 ft. because of dangerous snow conditions. Our high point was 1300 ft. below that ...
Our expedition was composed of Sebastia Figuerola, Francesc Magriñá, Enric Dalmau, Oscar Cadiac, Joan Roig, Xavier Azagra, Pere Benaiges, Alex Osso, Josep María Monserrat and me as leader. While we were waiting for our equipment to arrive and be c...
Recon: Titcomb BasinSpanning 80 miles of the Continental Divide, Wyoming’s Wind River Mountains bold some of America’s favorite wilderness rock. The southern granite is famous. The north?Have a look for yourself.Joe KelseyPrior to 1969 I’d climbed...
The Mountaineers. Although the Basic Climbing Course class was slightly smaller than usual with 215 people, the number of graduates at the end of the season was as large as usual, slightly over 100. Interest and activity in the Intermediate Climbi...
Klondike Lake Region, Wind River Range. Bob Held and I made several first ascents in the Klondike Lake region of the Wind River Range before joining Adams Carter’s group. On June 20, from camp on the south side of Klondike Lake we climbed a promin...