Cerro Torre, Various Ascents. Two Japanese climbers made the first Japanese ascent of the Cerro Torre on November 12. Storms prevented further repeats of the route until mid-January, when several teams made the summit, including the Swiss team of ...
“Alabaster”, Northwestern Chugach. After rendezvousing about mile 94 on the Glenn Highway on July 2, Bob Pelz, Royce Purinton and I camped on north gravel bars beside a roaring Matanuska River. Next morning, convinced our one-man kayak was a less ...
Many of Rowell’s photographs illustrate his wife Barbara Rowell’s book Flying South: A Pilot’s Inner Journey (Ten Speed Press). Not a climbing story but definitely an adventurer’s tale, it chronicles a 25,000-mile, 27-leg journey through Latin Ame...
Tocllaraju, Aguja Nevada Chica. A nine-man Japanese expedition climbed Tocllaraju (19,790 feet) by its northwest ridge. On a third try from Camp II at 18,050 feet, on July 2, 1976 Norikazu Honda and Michioh Hashimoto got to the top, followed on th...
Mt. Edwards, Various Activity. On the left side of Mount Edwards’ north face is a large triangular buttress. At mid-height, this buttress is dissected by a distinctive snowy ledge. From this ledge, water ice seems to ooze from deep within the moun...
The Mountaineers. The Mountaineer climbing courses registered 310 basic students, the largest classes the club has yet held. In addition to a full schedule of Viewfinder, Snowshoe, and Ski climbs, there were 98 experience and intermediate climbs s...
Kula Kangri, west ridge attempt. A three-man Danish team led by Claus Olsen also attempted the West Ridge at the same time as the French and Japanese. They gave up at around 6,500m.Lindsay Griffin, Mountain INFO, CLIMB magazine
British Empire Range, Ellesmere Island. From May 27 to June 10 Brad Albro, Bill Robinson, Rick Piercy, Jim Shedd, Paul Williams and John Petrie along with co-leaders Steve Trafton and me climbed and toured in northern Ellesmere Island. We flew fro...
Mount Raleigh, Gilbert Region. Icewall Lake, a small tarn lying south of the Southgate River, provided Dallas Kloke, Harry Hibler, Bill Eubank, his 13 year old son Chris, and me an excellent approach to the surrounding peaks with only a minimum of...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE (NO) BELAY, MISCOMMUNICATIONColorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Lumpy RidgeOn August 9, Stewart Ritchie (38) fell 60 feet from the top of the route Ziggie’s Day Out (I, 5.10b) on Checkerboard Rock at Lumpy Ridge. Ritch...
Palung Ri, south face. During my days spent acclimatizing for an ascent of Cho Oyu, I noticed a good line on the neighboring peak of Palung Ri (7,100m). I was working in this area as a guide, but bad conditions above 7,000m had confined us to base...
Mandaras Ku, Hindu Kush. During August and September a Franco-Polish expedition explored a valley of the Hindu Kush previously untouched by climbers. They made the first ascent of three 20,000-foot peaks and one of more than 23,000 feet, Mandaras ...
Peak above Kaskawulsh Glacier. Dr. Takeo Yoshino and his wife Kikuko joined the Icefield Ranges Research Project in July and August to study dielectric properties of snow. At the conclusion of the work they made the first ascent of a 10,000-foot p...
Argentine Patagonia, Various Activities. The 1997-98 climbing season in Patagonia began in typical fashion, with frustrated climbers sitting in huts for most of November, December, and January. However, an unprecedented three-week weather window i...
Tirich North Attempt. The members of our expedition were J. Baehler, R. Bregnard, C. Fasel, P. Hofmann, R. Zanon and I. We approached via Chitral, Zani Pass, Shagrom, Atak and the upper Tirich Mir Glacier. We attempted from July 2 to August 7 the ...
Papoose Rock. Of the many satellite rocks near the Squamish Chief, the Papoose is one of the most important. It rises above the ferry dock some four miles south of Squamish, and can be seen in profile against the much larger Chief from the road. J...
Gaurishankar Attempt. An expedition led by Michio Yuasa in the pre-monsoon season was composed of 14 Japanese and three Nepalese. They established three high camps and reached 21,000 feet on the southeast ridge. The route was very long and require...
“Dos Hermanos,” First Ascents. The team (six Chileans and two Argentines), met at Puerto Natales, Chile, in early February, 1999, and after receiving the necessary permits from the national authorities, sailed north toward Puerto Eden in Isla Wel...
Numbur. A joint Nepalese-Swiss expedition was co-led by Jacques Bouvier and Rinze Pasang Lama. There were seven Swiss and four Nepalese trying the 1963 Japanese route on the southwest ridge. They failed at 22,000 feet on May 21, having climbed fro...
Baltoro Kangri. Our objective was 23,990-foot Baltoro Kangri, formerly often called Golden Throne. Our party was composed of Professor Seihei Kato, leader; Dr. Hyoriki Watanabe, deputy leader; Sumio Shima, Keiko Fujimoto, Kiyoki Okada, Takeo Shiba...