Mt. Hawkins, First Ascent. In this modern world that we live in, true wilderness that has never seen the human foot is more and more uncommon. My family is privileged to live in the heart of one of the greatest wildernesses left in North America, ...
Huascarán Norte, Northeast Face. Leo Brigger and I climbed in the Cordillera Blanca from May 9 to June 10. For acclimatization we climbed Ishinca, the east face of Ranrapalca and Pisco. From May 29 to 31 we ascended the northeast face of Huascarán...
Jupiter Rock, Tumwater Canyon. Late in April Fred Beckey, Ed Cooper, and David Collins did the first ascent of this prominent pyramid-shaped granite face, naming it for the planet which shone brightly on our bivouac. We approached the bottom of th...
Nanga Parbat, Winter Attempt. The aim of the expedition was to make a small, lightweight ascent of Nanga Parbat (8125 m) in December, 1996. We (Rafael Jensen and Victor Saunders, with Gulam Hassan, liaison officer) chose the Kinshofer route becaus...
Mount Pattullo. It is remarkable that Mount Pattullo, the highest peak in the considerable span between the Seven Sisters Range and the Stikine River, had never been climbed. Although the mountain is near Stewart and the summit is only about eight...
Nalumasortoq, Central Tower, Vertical Dream. It was reported that Christian Dalphin, A. Castella, R. Lehner, A. Truffer and N. Zambetti climbed a mostly new line on the Central Tower of Nalumasortoq in June. Vertical Dream begins by sharing six pi...
TABLE I Reported Mountaineering AccidentsNumber of Accidents ReportedTotal Number of Persons InvolvedInjuredKilledYearUSA-CAN.USA-CAN.USA-CAN.USA-CAN.1951142110319522932171319532427141219543141318195534392913195646715118195745532818195832382211195...
FALL ON ROCK–RAPPEL TECHNIQUEArizona, Windy PointOn August 31, Joaquin Fox (38) was climbing with several other people in the North Fin area west of Windy Point. He had reached the top of his climb when he fell 80 feet, still connected to his rope...
Diran Attempt. On June 16 Kunio Asai, Dr. Isao Ogasawara, Miss Kazuko Ono, Eiichi Kurihara, Kikuo Okayasu, Kunihisa Otsubo and I reached Base Camp on June 16 from Minapin in two days. We attempted the unclimbed north ridge. We placed camps at 12,3...
Southwestern Colorado Climbing Notes—1932The San Juan Mountains of southwestern Colorado were, during the 1932 season, the scene of considerable climbing activity. First, a party, members of a small, informal club called the “San Juan Mountaineers...
Colorado, Castle Rock. On 26 March Christofer Ray (21) and Larry Minze (26) set out to climb Jackson’s Wall, a 5.5 route on the good granite of Castle Rock. Ray had climbed the same route a few days before as part of his climbing school course. It...
FALL ON SNOW, PLACED INADEQUATE PROTECTION, AVALANCHE Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount BakerOn August 28, 1986, a group was climbing the northeast ridge of Mount Baker (3190 meters) near Lake Louise, on the sixth day of a climbing school. There wer...
Himalayan Traverse. On June 15, 1982 Hugh Swift and I completed a nine-month, 2000-mile walk across the Himalayan regions of Bhutan, Nepal and India, the first Americans to complete such a trek. The traverse began on September 20, 1981 at Tashi Ya...
Dhaulagiri, North Face (“Pear” Route) Attempt. Our expedition consisted of climbers Mark Hesse, Del Pletcher, Todd Bibler, Catherine Freer and me and support personnel Julie Hesse and Johnna Pletcher. We left Pokhara on March 9 via the Myangdi Kho...
Meiji University Mount McKinley Expedition. The first of five expeditions to Mount McKinley was landed by Don Sheldon at about 8000 feet on the Kahiltna Glacier from the 9th to the 12th of April. This was from Meiji University, Tokyo, Japan, and w...
Shivling Attempt. During the summer of 1987, a Norwegian team composed of Jan Westerby, Thornbjørn Envold, Magnar Osnes and Aril Meyer hoped to climb the north buttress of Shivling. Unstable weather hindered progress. Some 500 meters below the sum...
Cerro Mirador del Pissis, Northwest Ridge. On November 22 I soloed a new route on Cerro Mirador del Pissis (5,415m). I left base camp at 9:15 a.m. and after walking the normal access route to Pissis I gained the northwest ridge of Cerro Mirador de...
Peak 11,962. On July 13, 1957 Yvon Chouinard and Bud Ewers finally made the first ascent of this peak, a northern sub-summit of Mount Moran. All four previous parties that had climbed the north ridge of Moran had by-passed it. It is the moderately...
Kangchenjunga from the North. Our expedition consisted of Lou Whittaker, leader, George Dunn, Phil Ershler, Jim Hamilton, Robert Link, Larry Nielsen, Dr. Howard Putter, John Roskelley, Eric Simonson, Craig Van Hoy, Ed Viesturs, Jim Wickwire, Skip ...
The Elephant’s Perch, Northwest Face, Sawtooth Range. On September 6 Bill March and I climbed the northwest face of the Elephant’s Perch. There is a prominent, left-facing curving corner starting about halfway up the face. The climb follows this f...