1994. El Capitan Nose Route Free In A DaySteve SchneiderIn 1958, when Warren Harding, Wayne Merry, and George Whitmore completed the first ascent of El Cap’s Nose after 45 days of climbing spread over 18 months, they unknowingly created what would...
Hand of Fatima, Suri Tondo, south summit, north face. It was mid- March and necessary to climb in the shade. Any wall facing the sun was too extreme. There were only two existing lines on the section of the north face of Suri Tondos south summit, ...
The Walker Spur of the Grandes JorassesHenry W. KendallTHE GREAT north faces of the Alps have exerted a peculiar fascination for climbers since the time when climbing techniques became sufficiently advanced for ascents of these routes to be consid...
Alpine GalleryDee MolenaarTHE ACCOMPANYING reproductions are of artwork done by several AAC members who displayed at the Annual Meeting in Seattle in December 1983. The paintings and sketches adorned the walls of the main program room and thus pro...
Jannu, Wall of Shadows, Ascent. Athol Whimp and Andrew Lindblade made a rare alpine- style ascent of the north face of Jannu (a.k.a. Kumbhakarna, 7710m) in the Nepal Himalaya during the spring. The pair went to Jannu to attempt its stunning unclim...
On May 23 two Japanese climbers, Jiro Kurihara (33) and Junya Shiraishi (28), were reported a day overdue after they left Denali Base Camp in an attempt to climb Mount Frances a few days prior. NPS rangers took a recon flight around Mount France...
Colque Cruz Group, Cordillera Vilcanota, 1974. The British Commonwealth Andean Expedition consisted of Dr. Jeff Boyd, Howard Dengate and me, Australians; Mike Browne, Jim Jolly, Miss Jos Lang and Keith Woodford, New Zealanders; and Arthur Twomey, ...
Beka Brakai Chhok, south peak, first ascent. Last summer I traveled to the Baltar Glacier for the second time, hoping to complete the first ascent of Batura II (7,762m) with Hervé Barmasse. But I had not realized that a Korean expedition also woul...
Mount Kimball, Alaska Range. In June a party from the Alaska Alpine Club, consisting of Charles Deehr, Finley Kennel, and me, attempted unclimbed Mount Kimball (9680 feet), which is located on the Mount Hayes A-2 quadrangle. We were flown into the...
Teram Shehr Ice Plateau traverse. The Indian-Japanese East Karakoram Expedition, consisting of five Indian and five Japanese mountaineers, undertook a long traverse of the Eastern Karakoram valleys between May 8 and July 9. We achieved a lot, cove...
In July Julien Christe, Alexandre Gal, Jérôme Gottofrey, and I headed for Kyrgyzstan to attempt the northwest face of Pik Vernyi above the Kyzyl Asker Glacier. We had climbed in this region during 2004 and seen the face, but we didn’t have the equ...
Annapurna I Attempt. A 9-man Austrian expedition led by Gerd Gantner attempted Annapurna I (26,545 feet) over the unclimbed “Fang.” Base Camp was set up at 13,780 feet on March 24 and two days later the Sherpas quit, complaining of poor food, clot...
Attempt on Mount Russell, Alaska Range. Our attempt to make the second ascent of Mount Russell (11,670 feet) by a new route, the northeast ridge, came to nothing. Our group consisted of Don N. Anderson, Robert H. Bates, Lawrence Carter, Russell Ma...
Free Climbing, 1980James D. BridwellTHE REALM of 5.13 is here. In just a few short years the standards of free climbing have shot upward at a speed consistent with the climbing-population explosion. The climbs of today are not only more difficult,...
Mountains and Mountaineering in Yezo, JapanKenneth P. KirkwoodYEZO, better known as the Hokkaido, is the second largest island of Japan, being a projection of Japan Main Island and a bridge to Saghalien Peninsula. Only slightly smaller than Newfou...
FALL ON ROCK, SEVERED ROPE, PLACED NO OR INADEQUATE PROTECTION, NO HARD HATWest Virginia, Seneca Rocks, La Bella VistaOn the morning of July 11, Ian Shevill (42) and his partner Brian (20’s) were climbing La Bella Vista, a two-pitch 5.10a trad cli...
Trango Tower, free ascent; Trango Monk, second ascent. After an unsuccessful expedition to the Trango group in 2004 with 26-year-old Matevž Kunšic, I decided to return to the wonderful people and mountains of Baltistan. Matevž and I were joined by...
Ulamertorssuaq, Quadrophania. Our team (Paolo Cavagnetto, Manlio Motto and Vecenzo Ravaschietto from Italy, and me, Michel Piola, from Switzerland) took a train from Geneva to Luxembourg, a flight from there to Rejkiavik, Iceland, a boat to Massan...
PAUL THOMAS DOHERTY1919-2000The “Old Fish Cop” left this world from his home in Gorham, New Hampshire, on June 18, after a long struggle with cancer. He was born on June 19, 1919, one of a family of four New Hampshire boys, all of whom followed di...
FALL ON ROCK – POOR COMMUNICATIONTexas, Enchanted Rock State Natural AreaOn Saturday, April 16, several groups of climbers were climbing at or in close vicinity of the Echo Canyon and Triple Cracks area. These included a group of six climbers from...