Club Activities AAJ
Mountain Rescue Association

Mountain Rescue Association. From the initial nine charter teams founding MRA on June 7, 1959, we have now grown to include 35 qualified mountain rescue teams representing 10 states and 2 provinces. Included in this are Alaska and four national pa...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India, Garhwal, P 20,700 near Ganesh Parbat

P 20,700 near Ganesh Parbat. This virgin peak was climbed on July 13 by an Indo-Tibetan Border Police team led by R.K. Khanna.Sohli S. Mehta, Himalayan Club


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India—Garhwal, Shrikailash

Shrikailash. Our expedition from Bangalore comprised five men: B.G. Naganath, S. Sudhakar, K.V. Mohan, A.S. Ravindra and Mallik Arjuna and three women: Mala Honnatti, Dr. Shantha and me as leader. We established Base Camp on August 24 immediately ...


Club Activities AAJ
A.A.C., Cascade Section

A.A.C., Cascade Section. During the year the Section sponsored several slide programs featuring local, national, and international climbers. In June Stephen Bezruchka described his 1981 ascent of Mustagh Ata in Western China. In the fall Doug Scot...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Africa, Mozambique, Sitting Chief

Sitting Chief. I was part of a joint Mountain Club of South Africa/British Mountaineering Council expedition to northern Mozambique and we were successful in climbing our objective, Sitting Chief (local name, Murupie). We had quite an adventure ge...


Club Activities AAJ
A.A.C., Oregon Section

A.A.C., Oregon Section. The section held three regular meetings in 1971 at which we were entertained by Bob Lee’s account of a Mexican- American expedition to the Río Mezquital; George Cummings, Nick Dodge, and Jim Petroske’s explorations in the C...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Makalu Attempt

Makalu Attempt. We were a group of seven climbers organized by the guide service we direct. On September 22, we arrived at Base Camp at 17,400 feet at the junction of the Chago and Barun Glaciers after a 12-day approach. After ferrying food and ge...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Turkey, Mt. Ararat

Turkey. A Swiss scientific expedition climbed Mount Ararat (16,916 feet) on August 15, 1954. The summit party consisted of Prof. Eduard Imhof, Leader, Prof. Emil Egli, and Dr. Hans Keller.


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Bolivia, Illampu and Illimani

Illampu and Illimani. An expedition of the Club Alpino Italiano, Sezione di Bergamo, reached the summit of Illampu (20,872 feet) in two rope teams, well past the climbing season (late October). Details of the route are not available; poor weather ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, USSR, Ak-Su, Turkestan Range, Kirgiz SSR

Ak-Su, Turkestan Range, Kirgiz SSR. Our group of 16 climbers from the Alpine Club of the Natural Science Faculty of Charles University of Prag spent 15 exciting days at the beginning of July in the Ak-Su region on the northern slopes of the Turkes...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Europe, Norway, Lofoten, Austvagoy Island, Vagakallen, Second Ascent of Storm Pillar

Austvagoy Island, Vagakallen, second ascent of Storm Pillar. From June 16 to 18 Vasek Satava and I made the second ascent of Storm Pillar on the Storpillaren of Vagakallen. The route was first climbed in September 2003 by Louise Thomas and Mike “T...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, Canadian Arctic, Nunavut, Kayaking Across Baffin Island

Kayaking across Baffin Island. Andy Bridge, Phil DeRieme, Hayden Glatte and John Weld were flown to a sandbar near the Barnes Icecap on Baffin Island on July 16. With their 35-pound kayaks each packed with 50 pounds of supplies, they set out for t...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Ice/Snow, Climbing Unroped, Poor Conditions, Colorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Taylor Glacier

FALL ON ICE/ SNOW, CLIMBING UNROPED, POOR CONDITIONSColorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Taylor GlacierOn October 16, a party of three started up the Taylor Glacier. The Taylor Glacier is a 40-60 degree 1,500-foot permanent snowfield in Rocky M...


Accident Reports ANAM
California, Higher Cathedral Spire, Yosemite National Park

California, Higher Cathedral Spire, Yosemite National Park—On April 17, 1955, at 5:30 a.m., Jack Weicker (24), Irene Beardsley (19), and Anne Pottinger (19) started up the talus at the base of the Higher Cathedral Spire. Roughly one and one-half h...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, Alaska Range, Denali National Park and Preserve Mountaineering Summary, 1996

Denali National Park and Preserve Mountaineering Summary, 1996. High winds, wide crevasses and a record low snowfall set the scene for the 1996 climbing season in the Alaska Range. Extreme winds during the month of May caught many climbers by surp...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Colorado, Southwestern Colorado Climbing Notes - 1933, Needle Mountains

Mile-post 486 on the railroad through Animas Canyon was the meeting point of members of the 1933 expedition of the San Juan Mountaineers. On the afternoon of August 1st the expedition crossed the river by means of a cable car. Shortly afterwards f...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Nanga Parbat, Rupal Face Attempt

Nanga Parbat, Rupal Face Attempt, Schell Route. A 15-member South Korean expedition was led by Kim In-Sik. They set up Base Camp on May 10. Their attempt on the Schell route reached 7400 meters.Xavier Eguskitza, Pyrenaica, Bilbao, Spain


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall into Crevasse—British Columbia, Glacier National Park, Illecillewaet Glacier

FALL INTO CREVASSE—British Columbia, Glacier National Park, Illecil- lewaet Glacier. James Tutt (24) and a companion were attempting to climb Youngs Peak on skis on March 30, 1976, ascending the Illecillewaet Glacier and descending the Asulkan Gla...


Notes AAJ
Asia, British in Nepal

British in Nepal. An announcement from the Himalayan Committee of the Alpine Club states that a small expedition is being permitted to visit Nepal in 1949, under the leadership of H. W. Tilman. It was planned that the party should include also Pet...


Notes AAJ
Alps, An Early American Traveller in the Alps

An Early American Traveller in the Alps was Peter Irving, brother of Washington Irving, whose Journal of a crossing of the Alps and trip through Switzerland, June 20th-July 6th, 1807, is in the Yale University Library, and will shortly appear in t...