FALLING ROCK, POOR POSITION Washington, North Twin SisterOn June 6, 1993, a group of five Bellingham Mountaineers were ascending the South Face to the West Ridge of North Twin Sister on the second day of a Basic Course. They started up a short gul...
Pik Lenina, Second Winter Ascent. Our expedition was led by Lenonid A. Troshchinenko and consisted of 24 people. Deputy leader was Aleksandr Glushkovski and I was leader of the support team. After leaving Leningrad on January 13, we arrived at Ach...
In April David Gottlieb and Joe Puryear made the first ascent of Jobo Rinjang, by the 1,700m south face. They were not aware the peak had been attempted [by Stéphane Schaffter’s expedition; see above] until they arrived at the Ministry to collect ...
Chang Tang, unsupported crossing. Janne Corax and Nadine Saulnier from Sweden are claiming the first complete north to south crossing of the Chang Tang. The journey took 46 days, and although the pair hoped to climb several peaks en route (includi...
FALLING ROCKAlberta, Rocky Mountains, The PinnaclesOn 7 July 1978, John Darragh (21) was belaying his companion who was leading a route on the Pinnacles. His companion dislodged a large rock which hit Darragh and broke his back. A helicopter broug...
HACE, PARTY SEPARATED, FAILURE TO TURN BACKAlaska, Mount McKinley, West ButtressThroughout the day on June 17, several expeditions passed Hiroyaki Hoshino (36) and his companions, between 18,000 feet and 19,700 feet. Everyone who passed Hoshino an...
Jaonli. A joint Mongolian-Indian expedition was led by Radnabazarin Zorig and Mohindar Singh. There were 13 Mongolians. The team reached Jaonli in mid November via the Lod Gad and the Jaonli Glacier. Base Camp and Camps I, II and III were at 4300,...
FALL IN CREVASSEAlberta, Jasper National Park, Columbia IcefieldAt 1840 on August 5, two climbers came off the Columbia Icefield to report that two members of their party of ten were injured and needed helicopter evacuation. All members were Russi...
Cerro Pollone, East Face, New Route. Italians Lorenzo Nadali and Luiggi Trippa climbed a 550-meter new line on October 19. The route climbs an obvious ice runnel that in certain sections is only two feet wide. They named the route Mastica e Sputa ...
Longs Peak, Lower East Face, Babies ‘R’ Us. Babies ‘R’ Us (III 5.12a) is a five-pitch route on the Lower East Face of Longs Peak that offers steep slab climbing on mostly high quality granite. It starts 250 feet right of the North Chimney, immedia...
Lhotse, Winter Attempt. An Italian expedition attempted a winter ascent of Lhotse. The members were Pier Antonio Camozzi, leader, Agostino Da Polenza, Uberto Testa, Graziano Bianchi, Mauricio San- tinello and Dr. Felice Boselli. After delays in th...
Mt. St. Elias, Mira Face, Second Ascent, and First Ski Descent of Mountain. In late April, the Colorado team of Doug Byerly, Lome Glick, Andy Ward, and I were flown to 7,000 feet on the Columbus Icefield at the base of Mt. St. Elias. Despite much ...
Huascarán Norte, French Route, North Face. During mid July Tom Sciolino and I climbed the 1966 French Route on the north face of Huascarán Norte. The approach from Lake Llanganuco to the base of the face took 1½ days. From a bivy site in the ’shru...
West Face of Liberty Bell, Cascades. Liberty Bell Mountain is destined to become a rock climber’s mecca if the proposed North Cascade Road is constructed. This summer John Rupley and Fred Beckey made its third ascent by a third new route, the most...
Nanga Parbat, Attempt and Tragedy. From May 10 to July 5, Razvan Petcu (leader), Mihai Gioroianu, Mariuo Gane, Bodgan Pintilie and Gabriel Stana attempted the Kinshofer Route. From Camp IV, at 3:30 a.m., four climbers went for the summit. At 8000 ...
Ogre Mountain and War Drum Peak, Bella Coola Area. In August Mark Bebie and I spent two weeks in the glaciers and peaks southwest of Ape Lake, then hiked out along the uplands of the Noieck River valley to a new logging road in the valley of Nutsa...
El Potrero Chico, Overview. The First Annual Potrero Chico Clean-Up and Trail Day in E1 Potrero Chico, Mexico, took place on New Year’s Day. A small turnout of 30 climbers helped remove two truckloads of trash from the base of Space Boyz, a popula...
TABLE II1951-641965Geographical DistrictsNumber of AccidentsDeathsTotal Persons InvolvedNumber of AccidentsDeathsTotal Persons InvolvedCanadaAlberta 14616000British Columbia18832000Yukon Territory101000Quebec 111000United StatesAtlantic — North64...
FALL ON ROCK–PROTECTION FAILED, INADEQUATE PROTECTIONCalifornia, Yosemite Valley, El CapitanOn May 4, Cam McKenzie (26) and I, Scott Ring (25), started up our fixed lines on the Zodiac route (VI 5.7 A2) on El Capitan. We picked up our haul bags wh...
Batura I Winter Attempt. Our expedition had as members Edi Koblüller, Franz Six, Dr. Gustav Ammerer and me. In weeks of winter climbing we got two-thirds of the way up the 12,000-foot south face of Baturi I (7785 meters, 25,540 feet) and reached a...