Makalu. Attempt. We arrived at Base Camp on August 29. The team members were Australian Greg Child, Irishman Terry Mooney, Indians Sharu Phrabu and Praful Mistry and Britons Rick Allen, Andy Parkin, Mark Miller, Sean Smith, Simon Yates, Alan Hinke...
LOSS OF CONTROL—VOLUNTARY GLISSADE, FAULTY USE OF CRAMPONS, MISCOMMUNICATION, INEXPERIENCEWashington, Mount ShuksanJames Blilie (24), a strong but inexperienced climber, summited on Mt. Shuksan early on the morning of May 19, 1985, with several co...
Cordillera Blanca. A group of 17 people organized by Mountain Travel and led by John Filsinger and me made moderate ascents during a three-week circular trek north of Huascarán. Two climbs are worthy of note. One was a new route on Rajucaca (“Punt...
Longs Peak, 1988. In early April, 1988, I soloed a new route on the Diamond without fixed rope or bolts. Smash the State (V, 5.8, A5-) starts in a chimney/ groove to the right of Its Welx, crosses left almost to King of Swords and then goes straig...
Number of Accidents ReportedTotal Number of Persons InvolvedInjuredKilledYearUSA-CAN.USA-CAN.USA-CAN.USA-CAN.195114211031952293217131953242714121954324231819553439266195646715113195745532818195832382211195942–256–228–019–2196047–463–1235–819–41961...
Alaska, Mt. McKinley. A Japanese party of nine climbers, Yukio Mir- mura (30), Mamoru Oyoshi (28), Ryomei Asao (28), Masahiko Fukuhan (27), Hideaki Yoshinari (25), Kazuo Yoneda (25), Yasuo Okino (24), Muneshige Noda (24), and Shinichi Hara (24), w...
Deo Tibba. Masayoshi Matsudate and the Sherpa Phu Dorje climbed Deo Tibba (19,687 feet) on May 28. Other members of the Nambu Mountaineering Club expedition were Yoetsu Matsuda, Nobuhisa Murayama and Mistuyoshi Mori.KAMAL K. GUHA, Himalayan Club
In February 2012, North American J.B. Haab and I opened Al Centro y Adentro (12 pitches, 5.11c) on Atardecer, a previously unclimbed wall in the Anfiteatro of Cochamó. The route follows 450m of nearly vertical splitter cracks and fun face up the c...
K2, South-Southwest Ridge Attempt and Tragedy. Our expedition reached Base Camp on May 31 and took its place in line on the moraine of the Godwin Austen Glacier. We found ourselves among nine expeditions on the south side and four expeditions on t...
Colorado Mountain Club. Continued growth, accompanied by an increase in all activities, characterized The Colorado Mountain Club during the past year. Membership currently stands at 4800, 10% more that at the start of the year.Ten outings, a week ...
Cerro Murallón, Gone with the Wind. On the north pillar of Cerro Murallón (2,831m), Stefan Glowacz and Robert Jasper made the first ascent of Gone with the Wind (1,200m to summit plateau, 27 pitches, 7c+ A2 M4), in November. See Glowacz’s feature ...
Mount Torbert from the West and P 6750, Tordrillo Mountains. As far as we know, our ascent of Torbert (3479 meters, 11,413 feet) was the first from the west and only the third ascent of the peak. Rod Wilson’s party made the first ascent in 1964 fr...
FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING UNROPED, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, EXCEEDING ABILITIES, INEXPERIENCEAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Lake Louise Area, Castle CragsClarence and Lyle went hiking up toward Castle Crags on August 5, 1991. From the Plain of Six Glaciers t...
Annapurna IV. An Indonesian expedition of six was led by Miss Aryati, who completed the 23rd ascent of Annapurna IV (7525 meters, 24,688 feet) with Sherpas Dorje, Lhakpa, Chonga Norbu and Ang Temba on November 14. They climbed the normal northwest...
Pik Pobeda (7,439m), north face to west ridge. At the end of August, Russians Vitaly Gorelik and Gleb Sokolov made the first ascent of the north face of the formation known as the Camel on the west ridge of Pik Pobeda. The objective dangers on the...
Gangstang, Lahoul. An Indian expedition led by Nirmal Gopal Chatterjee climbed Gangstang, first ascended by Italians in 1945. After ascendthe Biling Lampa stream, which flows into the Chandra River, they set up Base Camp on August 30. Other camps ...
Kusum Kanguru Tragedies, 1991. Ulric and Cathy Jessop were married in October, 1991 and decided to spend their honeymoon climbing in the Nepalese Himalaya. Their objective was the northwest ridge of Kusum Kanguru (6367 meters, 20,889 feet). They a...
Harvard Mountaineering Club. Last summer found club members relatively inactive in comparison with the activities of the summer of 1955. There was no major expedition organized by the club to South America or to the Himalayas, nor was there a clim...
Southern Patagonian Icecap Traverse. John Schutt, Mark Houston, Kathy Cosley and I made a crossing of the Southern Patagonian Icecap from the Fitz Roy region to Lago Argentina. We approached the icecap via the Río Túnel on February 28. The aptly n...
Pumari Chhish South, first ascent. On their third attempt over two years (2003 and 2007), Yannick Graziani and Christian Trommsdorff completed the first ascent of Pumari Chhish South (7,350m) over six days in June. The two men climbed the 2,700m s...