India—Kashmir and JammuKun, 1976. Many expeditions now climb in the Nun-Kun group. There was one such on which we did not report last year which originated in Switzerland. It was the eighth on the mountain and the second successful one. On August ...
Condoriri Area, Cordillera Real. Paul Stettner, Alan Johnson, John Herbst and I arrived in La Paz on June 10. After ascents of Cerro Milluni and Huayna Potosí, we turned to the Condoriri area. Stettner and I enjoyed a route on a small unnamed peak...
Imperial College Staunings Alps East Greenland Expedition. Our eight-man scientific and mountaineering project was based on the Bersaekerbrae Glacier in the Staunings Alps from June 28 to August 30. We maintained a four-man mountaineering party, t...
Batian, Mount Kenya. Our group consisted of Juan Carlos Robla, Pilar Fernández, Teresa Marchán, Luis Suárez, Nando Marné, Luisa Alonso, César de Prado, Angeles García, Angeles Navarro, Paco Gómiz and me. After several ascents of Lenana by the norm...
Horsethief Tower, Labyrinth Canyon. This little gem lies in the northernmost part of Glen Canyon National Recreation Area. The first ascent was made by Ken Trout, Rusty Kirkpatrick, Kirk Miller and me in April. The approach across the Green River ...
RAPPEL FAILUREWyoming, TetonsOn the morning of July 17, 1981, Marvin McDonald (25) and Eric Breitenberger, both experienced climbers, signed out for a climb of the North Ridge of the Grand Teton. They planned to bivouac on the Grandstand that nigh...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION-FAILURE TO ASSESS ROCK FORMATION, INADEQUATE BELAY, EXCEEDING ABILITIES, FAILURE TO FOLLOW ROUTEOregon, Mount WashingtonAt sunrise on June 29, Eric Seyler (28) and Kurt Smith (26) left their bivouac high on the ...
The Latok Group, Clarification. The 1997 ascents of Latok II have allowed us to clarify the naming of the three peaks of the Latok group. Below, we list the altitudes given to the peaks by three different sources: the Ortograficzna Mapa Szkicowa K...
Eastpost Spire, New South Face Route. On July 29 Gay Campbell, Phil Nelson, Pete Zvengrowski and I climbed this route with Gay in the lead. The climb began in a prominent corner west of the Kor route. Hard climbing, where it was difficult to place...
Mount Fairweather from Canada. For years I had been fascinated by Mount Fairweather. Sitting astride the Canadian-Alaskan border, it is the highest peak in British Columbia. The idea of climbing the peak by a Canadian route vaguely developed in my...
A.A.C., Rocky Mountain Section. Nick Clinch showed his pictures of the 1960 Masherbrum Expedition at the year’s first meeting on February 13, 1961. Included in the winter and spring programs were slides of Mount St. Elias by Bill Buckingham; Gasto...
Gasherbrum II. After leaving Bongla on July 1 with 60 Balti porters, we finally set up Base Camp at 16,900 feet on the South Gasherbrum Glacier on July 11. Camps I and II were on the same glacier at 18,500 and 19,675 feet, the latter at the foot o...
Chopicalqui, Southeast Ridge, Cordillera Blanca and Climbs in Cordilleras Raura and Vilcanota. The British-Australian Expedition was made up of Geoffrey Wayatt, Richard Whitley, Miss Faye Kerr and me. The first region we visited was the Cordillera...
On June 30, Malte Roeper and I climbed with a porter and two donkeys to the head of the Quebrada Cayesh. The next day, the porter helped us pack to a glacier camp at 5100 meters. On July 2, we studied the route and on the 3rd we climbed to bivouac...
Bindu Gol Zorn II. A Japanese expedition from Kawashi City was led by Tadakiyo Sakahara and composed of H. Suzuki, T. Hayashida, E. Kusakabe and K. Iwano. Iwano fell ill and had to be helicoptered out. They established Base Camp at 12,625 feet on ...
Bojohaghur Duan Asir I. Six Japanese climbers led by Muneo Uyeda failed to climb Bojohaghur Duan Asir I (7329 meters, 24,046 feet). They approached the mountain up the Ultar Glacier from Hunza and attempted the south side. Base Camp at 12,950 feet...
“Sawtooth Mountain”, W. Hamill (Toby) Group, Purcells. On August 17 David, Miriam, and Suzanne Ector, Drew Weir, and I left the Johnson’s Landing road near Salisbury Creek, at 1900 feet, and ascended northeastward 2½ miles through thick forest. We...
Mt. Sir Donald, Selkirk. On 1 August J. B. Swanson (27), Steve Tandy, John Pinamont, and Garey Tandy had climbed Sir Donald via northwestridge and descended via southeast ridge and southwest ridge. They had stopped while descending the Vaux Glacie...
FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING ALONE AND UNROPED, WINDCalifornia, Tahquitz RockOn January 24, Nathan Thomas Parrish’s (25) body was found at the base of South Face of Tahquitz Rock between Open Book and Left Ski Track.Jim Russell, U.S. Forest Service part...
Hunter, Southeast Spur Attempt, 1991. Jay Hudson, our pilot, dropped Jim Graham and me off on the seldom-visited south fork of the Tokositna Glacier on April 22, 1991. We believe that no one had been here since 1980 when Pete Athans, Peter Metcalf...