Mt. Assiniboine, Cheesmond-Dick second ascent solo, and various ascents. In July I traveled for the third time to Canada. In spite of bad conditions on the alpine faces I picked off a couple of good routes. After installing a bivy cache at Eiffel ...
HAPE, HACE, AND AMSWyoming, Grand Teton National ParkWhile signs and symptoms of AMS are not unusual in the Tetons, it is rare to see HAPE or HACE. During the summer of 2001, four significant altitude- related cases were seen. One was a 14 year ol...
Exploring Greenland’s Lemon BjergeChristian BoningtonTHE GROOVE SOARED ABOVE ME, bristling in small overhangs. It faded into an overlapping curtain of smooth rock with no guarantee of a route beyond it. Each move was taxing. From below, it looked ...
Chaupi Huanca, Qui Io Vado Ancora (to junction with Caravaca Jubilar). Italian Ragni di Lecco climbers Simone Pedeferri (leader, age 34), Andrea Pavan (26), and I (41) explored the granite walls of Peru’s Quebrada Rurec, where on July 12 we made t...
RAPPEL FAILURE, INADEQUATE PROTECTIONWisconsin, Devil’s Lake State ParkOn October 20, 1984, a climber (F - 22) fell seven to eight meters to the ground when her rappel anchor—consisting of nylon webbing secured to a tree and a rock—failed. (Source...
Dhaulagiri, West Face and Southwest Buttress Attempts. Our Czechoslovakian expedition had two objectives: to climb a new route on the extremely difficult right side of the west face in expedition style without porters or artificial oxygen and to c...
FALLING ROCKWyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Grand TetonAround 1900 on July 15, 2002, Teton County Sheriff’s Office (TCSO) received a 911 call from Richard Whipple reporting a climbing accident on the North Face of the Grand Teton. The TCSO tra...
Hiking, Camping and Mountaineering, by Roland C. Geist. 8 vo., 304 pages, with 18 sketches, 4 sketch maps and 20 photographs.New York: Harper and Bros., 1943. Price $3.00.Addressed to beginners in each of the activities named, this book aims “to i...
Valle Pirita, Pirita Right, first ascent, and Todos Los Caballos Lindos. If Paul McSorley wasn’t such a talented climber and guide I would suggest he pursue a career in motivational speaking. He has the uncanny ability to rally a crew on any missi...
FALL ON ROCK, FALLING ROCK, FAILURE TO TEST HOLDS Colorado, Rocky Mountain National Park(On August 26,1986, Doug Grimm [40] was climbing the northwest corner of Twin Owls on Lumpy Ridge when he fell. Here is his report.)The fall resulted during a ...
Peak 10,611. On August 22, 1957 Jack Davis, Redwood Fryxell, and Julie Peterson made the first ascent of this peak, east of Rolling Thunder Mountain, by its southeast ridge.
Ananea Group, various ascents. John Biggar led an expedition to the seldom-visited Peruvian section of the Cordillera Apolobamba. Traveling via Puno and Juliaca the team, which comprised Biggar, M. Aurelio, J. Cargill, J. Lewis, R. Nuttall, and J....
Peaks in the Valle del Francés, Paine Group. Santiago youths led by Rodrigo Mujica climbed in the valley of El Francés, whose sources are some five kilometers west of the Paine Towers. During January and part of February, they made the following c...
Mt. Queen BessHenry S. Hall, Jr.THE Coast Range lured me once again in 1942. In a description of the view from Mt. Razorback in 1932, I had written: “To the S. Bishop’s Peak 10,712 ft., a prominent feature in his 1922 photograph of Waddington and ...
STRANDED, EXPOSURE, WEATHER, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, INEXPERIENCE California, Yosemite ValleyOn the evening of May 26, 1988, Yosemite experienced a cold storm which laid snow on higher elevations of the park. A two person climbing team consisting of...
Chogo-Lungma Region. A strong German expedition from Frankfurt explored and climbed in the Chogo-Lungma region in the western Karakoram. They also did considerable scientific work in glaciology, physics, geography, and geology under Dr. Walter Bre...
Kangersuneq Fjord, South Greenland. Kap Farvel (Cape Farewell) is known for its loose rock and unpredictable weather. On the first score, we encountered the same difficulties as previous expeditions; on the second, we profited from the best weathe...
Colorado—Maroon Bells near Aspen: On September 3, 1952, Larry Hack- staff (20), Gordon Schindel (19), Martin Barrett and Bob Mason ascended the North peak of the Maroon Bells. The first two were students at Williams and Yale respectively and had h...
California, Yosemite, Cathedral Peak. On 25 July Armando Menocal and Andy Husari (48) set out early to climb the North face. They moved quickly up the talus and dirt of the East face and were just below the summit blocks by 0715. After 150 feet of...
Mount Everest, Illegal Attempt. Frenchman Marc Batard has become so enmeshed in controversy with the Nepalese authorities that there is doubt that he will ever return to Nepal to climb again. He gained fame in September, 1988 by achieving what is ...