VARIOUS FALLS ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED OUT, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, AND RAPPEL ERRORSNew York, Mohonk Preserve, ShawangunksThere were 29 incidents reported for 2002. More than half were injuries sustained from lead climbing. In eight of the leade...
Quand brillent les Étoiles de Midi, by Marcel Ichac. Paris: Arthaud, 1960. 115 pages of text, 102 photo illustrations, 4 plates in color and a contour map of the area between the Col du Midi and the Tour Ronde. This is the story of the making of a...
Stones of Silence, by George B. Schaller. New York: Viking Press, 1980. 292 pages, 14 color plates, maps and illustrations. Price $15.95.Why should mountaineers read about a zoologist’s scrambles in the Himalaya? Dr. George Schaller’s narrative of...
Shani Peak, Various Ascents. From July 25-September 4, Andreas Amons, Elwin van der Gragt, Benno Netelenbos and Melvin Redeker (the Netherlands) operated with a leave-no-trace objective from a 3920-meter Base Camp in the Upper Shani Valley. Our go...
Traverse of Mt. Index. The grim precipices of the three peaks of Mt. Index, just S. of the Stevens Pass Highway, have long been a challenge to climbers. The S. (main) summit has several easy routes; but to the N. a steep cliff separates it from th...
Climbers’ Guide to Devil’s Lake, by William Widule and Sven Olof Swartling. University of Wisconsin Press: Madison, Wise. 1979. Sponsored by the Chicago Mountaineering Club. 185 pages, maps, diagrams, photos.It was with considerable doubt that I a...
Everest: A Mountaineering History. Walt Unsworth. Houghton Mifflin Company, Boston, 1981. 578 pages, black-and-white and color photographs, maps, appendices, summary of expeditions, glossary, bibliography. $30.00.For the past several decades, we h...
Condoriri Group, Huallomen, southwest face, Bon Anniversaire Annick. In 2001 I spent a few days climbing in the well-known Condoriri group near La Paz. The snow/ice conditions were very good considering we were there at the end of July. With a fri...
The National Park Service has been keenly aware of the problem of safety, especially after the number of accidents in the Tetons in recent summers, and has organized a mountain rescue program in the Tetons, at Rainier and in Yosemite. There is sti...
In mid-September, near the end of calendar winter, a group of 17 students and Jose Luis Troncoso, Pedro Binfa, and I, instructors from Patagonia Alpine Guides, mounted an expedition to several Chilean valleys, glaciers, and peaks that had had fe...
FALLS ON ROCK AND SNOW, STRANDED, FALLING ROCKS, ETC. Colorado, Various LocationsOf the 11 accidents reported from Colorado this year, only one was an actual technical climbing situation. That one was a simple “fall on rock” on Red Garden Wall. Th...
Around 2:30 p.m. on May 27th, Donald Gallo (39), Somsanouck Gallo (40), along with a friend, M. E., set out to climb The North Ridge, a 5.5 trad route on Table Rock. The three had arrived the night before and this was the first route of the holida...
Ritipata, Palomani Grande, Palomani Tranca Central, and other ascents. John Biggar again visited the remote Peruvian Apolobamba, and as in 2002, the climbers traveled via Puno to the 4,700m mining village of Ananea. Base camp was again established...
South Teton, East Snow Couloir. On August 1, Jim Olson and Tom Watson made the first ascent of this couloir which has been in direct view of two generations of climbers. From the highway somewhat south of east, the prominent snow couloir can be se...
REVIEW OF ACCIDENTS IN 1951Washington State: (1)Cascades. On 2 June 1951 Charles Randall, a 23-year-old University of Washington student, was hit by a falling rock while climbing Red Mountain near Snoqualmie Pass Summit. The accident occurred abou...
Gushu Pishu. A.K. Janardan, Roshan Lal, Bihari Lai and Bhangu of the Indo-Tibetan Border Police made the first ascent of virgin Gushu Pishu (18,610 feet), which was difficult despite its modest height. They ascended the Zangsu Glacier.KAMAL K. GUH...
The Ascent of Mount LucaniaBradford WashburnEVER since the conquest of Mt. Logan in 1925, the ascent of Mt. Lucania has loomed as one of the most difficult and involved mountaineering problems in North America. Rising to an altitude of 17,150 ft. ...
Batu Lawi, South Face. On March 5, Volker Shoeffl, Scott Morley, photographer Chris Noble,videographers Jim Surrette and Ken Sauls and I began the first leg of our ascent of Batu Lawi (6,703'), a remote spire in the Kelabit Highlands of Borneo. Af...
Cerro Escudo, Taste the Paine. In December 2007 and January 2008, with a minimum of rope fixing and no fixed camps, Dave Turner spent 34 continuous days on the east face of Cerro Escudo, soloing a new route (VII 5.9 A4+). Above the 1,200m wall, Tu...
Tirich Mir Attempts. This season’s unusually poor weather and associated dangerous conditions in northwest Pakistan also affected Tirich Mir (7708 meters, 25,290 feet), where our expedition of Steve Callen, leader, Mike Aughey, Dave Harries, Steve...