Shishapangma (Xixabangma), attempt in winter and first winter ascent of the southwest face. Our aim was the southwest face and main peak (8,012m) of Xixabangma in winter. For our attempt we chose the Spanish Route toward the right side of the face...
JOSEPH E. JOHNSON1906-1990Joseph E. Johnson, President Emeritus of the Carnegie Endowment for International Peace, a former State Department official and special United Nations representative, died on October 24 in Lynchburg, Virginia. He was bom ...
Barrill and Dr. CookDR. FREDERICK A. COOK in 1906 claimed that he and Edward Barrill, a horse packer from Darby, Montana, had made the first ascent of Mount McKinley. This claim has been hotly disputed over the years. A great many books and articl...
With a Camera in My Hands: William O. Field, Pioneer Glaciologist. William O. Field, as told to Suzanne Brown. Anchorage: University of Alaska Press, 2004. 350 black and white photos, 46 maps, including LINEWORK AND SHADED-RELIEF LANDFORMS. 208 PA...
The Chinese Tien ShanNew routes and great potential in a seldom-visited range.Anatoliy DjuliyThe central Tien Shan range in China, south and east of the borders with Kyrgyzstan and Kazakhstan, is a little-known region with many unclimbed peaks fro...
Illustrated Guidebooks. Jan Kielkowski. Potsdamer Strasse 45, 4000 Düsseldorf 13, Germany. Paperback booklets.Jan Kielkowski continues to put out guidebooks to some of the high-mountain areas of the world. The mountains in various regions are give...
FALL ON SNOW, FAILURE TO SELF-ARRESTWashington, Columbia PeakOn July 13, Lee Giroux (50) and five other members of the Seattle Mountaineers attempted to reach the summit of Columbia Peak. The party left their camp at 6:00 a.m. that morning. Each p...
Changping Valley, first ascents of Chiwen, “The Little Prince,” and Chibu. On September 11 Katy Holm, Aidan Oloman, and I left Vancouver for Rilong, a growing mountain town and access point for the Siguniang Shan National Reserve. From there we ma...
Ascents in the Cathedral SpiresMichael Graber, Buff Climbing ClubON June 26, Cliff Hudson flew Hoo- man Aprin, David Black and me from Camp Creek to the Tatina Glacier in the Kichatna Mountains. We were surprised and slightly disappointed to find ...
Roar of the WindThe first winter ascent of Makalu.Simone MoroMy latest expedition would have been special regardless of the objective. It was my 40th trip outside Europe, and, as when I turned 40 a year earlier, it marked an inevitable point of re...
Mt. Logan-Cook Expedition, 1953RICHARD E. McGOWANLured by some of the fine climbing problems in the St. Elias Range of Alaska and Yukon Territory, Canada, a group of Seattle climbers, in the winter of 1952-53, organized the Mt. Logan-Cook Expediti...
Valley of Fire State Park: Unlike the friendly attitude of the Utah State Park rangers in Snow Canyon an hour away, the Nevada State Park rangers in Valley of Fire have for years outlawed the use of chocks, crampons, petons (their spelling) and ot...
PROTECTION PULLED OUT-FALL ON ROCKCalifornia, Yosemite Valley, Middle Cathedral RockOn July 12th at 1:00 p.m., a fisherman in Yosemite Valley reported seeing two climbers fall from high on Middle Cathedral Rock. After speaking with this witness, I...
Great Cross Pillar, South Face, Non-Conceptual Time. Three days of rough travel brought my partner, Sean “Stanley” Leary, and I to the Great Cross Pillar in Sam Ford Fjord. We said goodbye to our Inuit friends and guides, then busied ourselves e...
Gatekeeper Wall, Gatekeeper Crack. In October Dave Jones, Chris Owens, and I established this route on the Gatekeeper Wall, which is the first formation lower than and east of the Watchman. We started up the canyon where the NPS has their shuttle ...
AVALANCHEBritish Columbia, Glacier National Park, Mount CheopsOn February 1, a high school backcountry ski group comprised of three adults and 14 students was traveling on the Balu Pass Trail, about five kilometers west of the Rogers Pass summit. ...
Northeast Ridge of M-6Talbot BielefeldtWE began by finding that the road over Rohtang Pass to Keylang was closed by record snowfall, thus adding a week of trekking to the expedition. Then, the first day out of Manali, we ran into a police officer ...
Everest Ascent and Tragedy. Two Japanese expeditions climbed Everest in the post-monsoon season, but three died on the descent. Five Japanese led by Haruichi Kawamura and ten Sherpas originally had permission for the southwest face but had it chan...
The easy ascent of Cirque Mountain (13,650 ft.) was first made by Gordon Williams, T. M. Griffiths, and the writer. The climb was made from Dike Col up the southwest ridge.
A Portrait of Leni Riefenstahl. Audrey Salkeld. Jonathan Cape, London, 1996. 312 pages, black-and-white photographs, ca. $20.00.In the 1920s, Leni Riefenstahl climbed the Vajolet and Sella Towers and skied and worked with Hannes Schneider and Sepp...