Kusum Kanguru. Our original objective was the north face of Kusum Kanguru. Three days before our arrival at Base Camp, this 6000-foot-high wall was soloed by Hiroshi Aota. The bold Japanese persevered for two days through eight inches of heavy sno...
Antarctica, Various Ascents. The weather in interior Antarctic during the austral summer of 1998-’99 can best be described as chaotic. Frequent moist storms brought an abnormal amount of snow to this very dry part of the planet. The complications ...
Iscacuchu, Cololo, Huelancalloc and Other Peaks, Northern Pupuya Group, Cordillera Apolobamba. Steve Hillen, leader, Ian Burgess, Ian Diamond, David Lister, Tim and Kathy Mather, Ian Woolgar and I visited the southern Cordillera Apolobamba. This r...
Mount Tatum, Northeast Ridge. On July 7 to 10, my brother Steve Hackett and I climbed Mount Tatum (11,140 feet). We left Wonder Lake early on the 7th and spent the whole day walking to McGonagall Pass. The next day, after a late start, we ascended...
Peak 11,251. The first ascent of this double summit was made June 25, 1957 by Leigh and Irene Ortenburger during a traverse from Doane Peak to Eagles’ Rest Peak. The name, Anniversary Peak, was given to the mountain.
Karun Koh Attempt. Unclimbed Karun Koh (6977 meters, 22,891 feet) was attempted by German Dr. Karl Hub, Pakistanis Saad Tarek and Sidiqi and me. The peak lies north of the Shimshal valley. We began our approach June 24 from Murkhan, 12 miles north...
Kärnten and Osttirol, edited by Eduard Mussger. 200 pages of photographs with interspersed trilingual text. Klagenfurt: Mussger, 1952. Price, $2.50.This book initiates a regional series issued under the title of “Sonniges Alpenland,” with further ...
At the beginning of February 2011, Peter Fasoldt, Carsten von Birckhahn, and I began a new route on the southeast face of Aguja Desmochada. Due to the bitter cold and our general slowness we only made it up six pitches before bailing. The climbi...
Nanga Parbat, Diamir Face. Having left Rawalpindi on May 22, my wife Laurence de la Ferrière and I drove up the gorges of the Indus on the Karakoram Highway. We shared permission for Nanga Parbat with the Polish women led by Wanda Rutkiewicz. We s...
The Butcher; The Ascent of Yerupaja, by John Sack. 8 vo., 213 pages, 8 pages of illustrations. New York: Rinehart & Company, Inc., 1952. Price $3.00.This account of the 1950 expedition to Peru, which included four present A. A. C. members and ...
South-North Traverse. Reinhold Messner and his brother Dr. Hubert Messner completed a remarkable traverse of Greenland, which took them not only from the southern part of the island to the north but also across from the eastern to the western side...
Axel Heiberg Island. Dr. Eduard Leuthold and I joined the Jacobsen- McGill Arctic Research Expedition 1960 from July 26 until August 18 on Axel Heiberg Island to survey, climb and provide medical care whenever required. On July 26 we finally arriv...
FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING UNROPED, NO HARD HAT, INTOXICATEDCalifornia, Yosemite ValleyAround 1830 on July 15, Troy Johnson (22) met with Bill Russell. Russell stated Johnson at that particular time was intoxicated, yet expressed his desire to perform...
Ak-Su North Peak, North Face, Various Ascents. The Laylak Ak-Su region is still one of the most attractive climbing regions in the C.I.S., with the most technically difficult peak being the north face of Ak-Su North Peak (5217m). From August 12-25...
Everest Tragedy. The Defense Academy Team led by Takashi Kawakami comprised 10 members. They hoped to climb Everest by the west ridge via the Rongbuk Glacier. The climbing leader, Masashi Yokoyama, was drowned when he failed to jump across a glaci...
RAPPEL ANCHOR FAILURE, FALL ON ICEAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Tangle Ridge, Centre Stage FallsAround mid-day on November 26, 1992, Pat S., who was a Park Warden, Mountain Guide, and Public Safety instructor with the Canadian Parks Service in Jasper ...
Kande Hiunchuli. Eight British climbers led by Garry Kennard attempted the north ridge of Kande Hiunchuli (6627 meters, 21,742 feet), but they could not proceed beyond 5900 meters due to fresh snow. The expedition was abandoned on October 29.Kamal...
KR 5. A 12-member Indian expedition led by Miss Purnima Dutta climbed KR 5 (6258 meters, 20,532 feet) on July 2.Kamal K. Guha, Editor, Himavanta, India
Lagh Shar Attempt. The members of the Pinerola Section’s expedition to Lagh Shar (19,971 feet) were Giorgio Griva, Michele Ghirardi, Paolo Strani, Paolo Ghersi, Piero Dassano, Ercole Cassale, Luigi Vig- netta, Eraldo Quero, Giuseppe Morero and I a...
Kang Guru. A Japanese expedition led by Kiyoshi Washizu made the 14th ascent of Kang Guru (6981 meters, 22,904 feet) by the normal west ridge. They placed Base Camp, Advance Base, Camps I and II at 3800,4600,5600 and 6020 meters on March 25 and 30...