Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, Pre-Existing Condition, Colorado, Eldorado Canyon State Park, Redgarden Wall

FALL ON ROCK, PRE-EXISTING CONDITIONColorado, Eldorado Canyon State Park, Redgarden WallOn Saturday, September 25 Maria Petzolt (26) dislocated her shoulder unexpectedly while pulling on a hold on the fourth pitch of Ruper (5.8), a 6-pitch route o...


Accident Reports ANAM
California, Mt. Ralston

California, Mt. Ralston—On January 1, 1955, Allen Steck (28), Richard Houston, William Dunmire, and Kenneth D. Adam set out for a ski ascent of Mt. Ralston from Echo Lake, above Tahoe. Plans to attempt Pyramid Peak were cancelled because of a rece...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, Brooks Range, Traverse of the Lisburne Peninsula

Traverse of the Lisburne Peninsula. In June, 1995, the traverse of the Lisburne Peninsula was accomplished across the spine of the western Brooks Range descending the Ipewik River to Point Hope. This is the westernmost reach of the American Arctic...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Colorado, Southwestern Colorado Climbing Notes - 1933, Sneffels Section

Sneffels SectionBlaine Peak (12,800 ± ft.) was ascended by the east face. This easy climb was made by T. M. Griffiths, L. V Giesecke, B. M. Souder and the writer.Aiguille Number One (12,900 ± ft.) was first ascended by T. M. Griffiths, L. V. Giese...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Nanga Parbat, Rupal Face Attempt, Schell Route

Nanga Parbat, Rupal Face Attempt, Schell Route. A team of three New Zealanders, an Australian and four Britons was led by New Zealander Guy Halliburton. They were unsuccessful because of excessive powder snow. On May 15, they established Base Camp...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock and Piton Failure—Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Frontal Range, Yamnuska

FALL ON ROCK AND PITON FAILURE.—Alberta, Rocky Mountains Frontal Range, Yamnuska. Jim Bay and Dan Griffiths were climbing the Direttissi- ma on July 1, 1976, and Jim who was leading slipped and fell about 30 feet. His top protection, a soft iron p...


Notes AAJ
Asia, Americans Back from Nepal

Americans back from Nepal. The Nepal expedition led by Dr. Dillon Ripley, of New Haven, and sponsored by Yale University, the National Geographic Society and the Smithsonian Institution, returned to this country with some fine long-range photograp...


Notes AAJ
Alps, Mountaineering Dogs

Mountaineering Dogs. In addition to those already cited, (A. A. J. ii, 553; iii, 113), Mlle. C. E. Engel would add Lutine, the pet of Major Rogers (Le Major Roger et son barometre, A. A. J. ii, 542), who climbed the Chenalette in 1833 and, a few w...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Peru, Cordillera Blanca, Ranrapalca, North Face, Attempt

Ranrapalca, North Face, Attempt. Andrej Markovic and Matej Zorko climbed a line (1000 meters, ED- V 85°) on Ranrapalca (6128 m), in 16 hours on June 6. Most of the route is on snow/ice with a few rock moves. They spent the night 30 meters below th...


Club Activities AAJ
Mountaineering Club of Alaska

Mountaineering Club of Alaska. The Mountaineering Club of Alaska had approximately 600 members in 2001. The club held monthly meetings that featured slide shows on Mt. Everest, exploring the Talkeetna Mountains, Wood Tikchik State Park, Mt. Blackb...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Wyoming, Mt. Helen

Mt. Helen. A new ascent by the steep N.W. ridge was made by Hans Kraus and Roger Wolcott on 4 August 1946, from a camp on Upper Titcomb Lake. This ridge seen in profile is high and precipitous. The route was reported as grade five in difficulty.A ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, California, American Safe Climbing Association, Activity Report

American Safe Climbing Association, Activity Report. With a huge lift from the American Alpine Club, the American Safe Climbing Association started off its first year with a bang. During 1998, we reached our goal of replacing 1,000 bolts on popula...


Accident Reports ANAM
Off Route, Stranded, Climbing Alone, Inadequate Equipment/Clothing, Exceeding Abilities, Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Middle Teton

OFF ROUTE, STRANDED, CLIMRING ALONE, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT/CLOTHING, EXCEEDING ABILITIESWyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Middle TetonOn the morning of September 29, Jenny Lake Subdistrict Ranger Mark Magnuson received a report of an overdue clim...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Chile, Central Andes, Catedral del Barroso

Catedral del Barroso. With a height of only 4510 meters (14,797 feet) Cerro Catedral del Barroso (“Cathedral of the Muddy River”) was among the finest peaks still unclimbed in central Chile. In an expedition lasting ten days, three climbers from R...


Book Reviews AAJ
Carl Rungius, Big Game Painter

Carl Rungius, Big Game Painter, by William J. Schaldach. 4to., 120 pages, 10 plates in full color, 20 reproductions of pencil drawings, 8 reproductions of dry-points and several pages of photographs. Edition limited to 1250 numbered copies. New Yo...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Wyoming, West Twin Peak, Southeast Face, Titcomb Basin, Wind River Range

West Twin Peak, Southeast Face, Titcomb Basin, Wind River Range. Jay Goodwin and I climbed what we believe is a new route on West Twin Peak. It is best seen in the early morning hours, when the sunlight isolates the prominent arête extending from ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, China, Siguniang National Park, Changping Valley, Barbarian (5,592m), Savage Sister (ca 16,390'), Attempts

Barbarian (5,592m), Savage Sister (ca 16,390'), attempts. Josh Butson and I returned to the Changping Goa Valley in late September searching for another remote adventure. From the previous year’s experience, we knew our objective: the mountain loc...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Lobuje East, West Pillar

Lobuje East, West Pillar. It was reported that Spaniards Manolo Miranda, Carlos Miguel and Eduard Sanchez followed a line to the left of one established in 1991 by American Eric Brand and Nepalese Norbu Sherpa on the lower half of the west pillar ...


Accident Reports ANAM
Washington, Mount Rainier National Park

Washington, Mount Rainier National Park. On 16 June Ted Miles was leading a guided summit party down after a successful climb of Mt. Rainier (14,410). While crossing a steep (60 degree) snowbridge at the 12,000 foot level, Miles fell 40 feet into ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Rocky Mountain National Park, Summary Colorado

The RMNP summer alpine season was limited by exceptionally wet weather for Colorado. Although Tommy Caldwell and Topher Donahue made a first free ascent, at 5.13-, of Bilge (previously 5.8 A3) on the Ship’s Prow at 12,000', perhaps the only long n...

| Published N/A