Oriol Baro and I arrived in Nepal on September 11 without firm plans, only pictures in the pocket. We acclimatized in the Khumbu, ascending the trekking peak Parchamo (6,279m). From here we saw an interesting wall; the south face of Tengi Ragi Tau...
Shishapangma (Xixabangma), winter attempt via the southwest face. Before last year no one had attempted to climb 8,012m Shishapangma in winter, and until recently permission had never been granted. But if you wait hours for a bus in the end two co...
FALL ON ROCK, SNOW, CLIMBING UNROPEDAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Mt. VictoriaDarryl Bouchard, James Ross, and Steve Thomas were descending the ridge from Victoria North Peak toward Collier Col on 22 July 1978. They estimate that the angle of the ridg...
FALL ON SNOW—UNABLE TO SELF-ARREST, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, POOR POSITION, INEXPERIENCEAlaska, Ptarmigan Peak, Chugach State ParkOn June 29, two instructors and their twelve students in a University of Alaska, Anchorage, Alaska Wilderness Studies 1...
Rangrik Rang, Kinnaur. Little was known about the objective of our Indo-British expedition. No photographs were available, no eye-witness reports. We saw the mountain for the first time when we breasted a shoulder below the village of Charang, onl...
Fitz Roy Area, Various Ascents. In mid-January, Steph Davis and I climbed Rubio y Azul on Torre de la Media Luna, and in mid-February, the Piola route on El Mocho. We also attempted Fitz Roy from the west, joining the American route at the Col De ...
Lhotse, South Face. Detailed study of previous attempts resulted in our deciding on a classical style with a 22-man team, plus a doctor, radioman, two TV men and a cook. We fixed rope and had a running chain of climbing teams working one after the...
Pirámide, Northwest Face, Artesonraju, Chinchey. In June Steve Friddle, Eric Peterson and I headed to the Laguna Parón for a month of climbing. A quick warm-up attempt on Pisco led to pulmonary edema for Peterson. We are grateful to the boss at th...
Nanga Parbat, Winter Attempt. A Polish expedition attempting Nanga Parbat (8125 m) in winter via the Diamir Face returned after being evacuated from the Base Camp. Two of the climbers, Zbigniew Trzmiel, 33, and Krzysztof Pankiewicz, 45, suffered f...
Thaime Chhish, Batura Region, Attempt. Tim Relton, Bob Knapp, Jeff Thompson and I hoped to climb a mountain first attempted in 1954 by a strong German-Austrian team who referred to the peak as the “Wildspitze;” they retreated from a point close to...
The Aiguille Hand (13,150 ft.) was the first of the Sneffels’ needles to be climbed. T. M. Griffiths (leader), Gordon Williams, and the writer made the ascent. The last 100 feet were quite difficult.
Colorado, Sangre de Cristo, Little Bear. On 5 August Dr. Bruce Stewart (48), Jay Stewart (21), Dion Stewart (20), and Dr. Harold Affsprung (45) planned to climb Little Bear Peak (14,040 ft.) and if possible, make the traverse to Blance Peak (14,36...
Dhaulagiri Attempt. Austrian Peter Habeler and German Michael Dacher hoped to climb Dhaulagiri. Due to a heavy snowfall, they abandoned the expedition at only 5400 meters on September 24.Kamal K. Guha, Editor, Himavanta
The Counter-Image. The lower and more northerly of the two Images was first ascended August 9, 1956 by Sherman and Lillian Lehman. They traversed the peak, ascending the east face and descending the west.
Yalungkang Attempt, Winter, 1988-9. Our expedition was led by Józef Stepien of Wroclaw and had as members Aleksander Lwow, Ewa Panejko- Pankiewicz, Bogdan Stefko, Zdzislaw Jakubowski, Dr. Kazimierz Pichlak and me. We left Kathmandu on December 17,...
Shoshone Spire, Bitterroot Range. About three miles up Blodgett Canyon is this triangular rock of solid granite. The upper face is reached by climbing three pitches to the large ledge system at the base of the face. The following two routes, done ...
FALL ON SNOW, FALL INTO MOAT WHILE GLISSADING Wyoming, TetonsOn June 21,1986, Fredrick Sigekrans (22) and Jeffrey Balin (21) were descending from the saddle between Middle and South Tetons by glissading. They reached a point ahundred vertical mete...
Lhotse Attempt. American Peter Athans and a companion reached 7600 meters on the west face of Lhotse on October 11 but could not continue higher.Elizabeth Hawley
Peak 12,450 (Throne Peak), The Scimitar. Approaching from the east, Jon Allen and I hiked into the Cathedral Peak area where we were met by James Garrett later that evening. After a morning of wet weather, James headed off and soloed the South Rid...
Bauddha Attempt. A six-man expedition from the Japanese Hirosaki Overseas Climbing Club led by Shozo Kikuchi failed to climb Bauddha (21,890 feet) by its south ridge. They set up Base Camp (15,100 feet), Camp I (17,800 feet) and Camp II (19,400 fe...