Ski and Paraglider Descents. Twenty-four Slovene climbers, extreme skiers and paragliders visited the Cordillera Blanca in May and June. The outstanding ski descents follow: Palcaraju Sur via the south face (normal route) to the Cojup valley from ...
Peaks East of Tirich Mir, 1978. My wife and I, the only ones finally to make the trip, were beset with many problems while driving toward the Hindu Kush and had to alter our plans. Lacking a firm attachment to the cliffs, the shelf-road between Ch...
Distaghil Sar, Second Ascent. After arriving on June 23 at Nagar, we spent two days haggling with the porter chiefs. We finally contracted for 37 porters and a sirdar. We ascended the Hispar valley and glacier and on July 1 got to Bularung on the ...
Peaks 10,800 and 10,600, Farnham Group, Purcells. A reconnaissance I made in 1970 of the two high peaks northwest of the Farnham Tower revealed that climbing them from the east would be exceedingly difficult and especially dangerous. So this past ...
British Columbia, Northern Selkirks. On 16 July Sargent Janes (41) Reed Markley, Penny Ohler and Bill Pratt, members of the 1968 AMC Selkirk Expedition, were returning to Fairy Meadow cabin via Friendship Pass after climbing Pioneer 10,660 feet by...
FALL ON ROCK–PROTECTION PULLED OUT, NO HARD HATCalifornia, Joshua Tree National Park, Spider LineOn January 15, Daniel Scott (26) was climbing Spider Line (5.11c) when one his anchors pulled out causing him to fall twelve feet. According to one po...
East Kahiltna Peak Attempt. On May 2, Jamie Kanzler, J.P. Gambetese and I began skiing up the east fork of the Kahiltna Glacier to the southeast face of East Kahiltna Peak (13,440 feet). What caught our eye was an S-shaped couloir toward the west ...
The Mountaineers. The Mountaineers climbing courses continue to be most popular with 265 basic students and 63 intermediates registered in 1967. In addition to a full schedule of viewfinder, snowshoe, and ski touring climbs, there were 99 basic an...
First Ascent of Bhagirathi IV, V, and P 18,500. The members of our team were Ganga Singh Negi, Minoo I. Mehta, Kripal Singh Negi, Padam Dutt Nautiyal (the last two high-altitude porters) and I as leader. We set up Base Camp at Nandanban (14,500 fe...
Meru North, East Face, New Routes. Three Slovene climbers, Franc Knez, Andreja Hrastnik and her brother Martin, started up the east face of Meru North (6460 meters, 21,162 feet) on August 25. After the second bivouac on the rock wall, they deviate...
A.A.C., Blue Ridge Section. In 1982 this smallest section of the Club was undoubtedly the most active in proportion to its size. Section-sponsored outings were held in the Potomac Gorge and at Seneca Rocks, West Virginia. Members also climbed in t...
The Sea Cliffs, new sport routes. Michel Piola and Benoit Robert returned to the North Coast for a couple of weeks during June and July to create 66 new pitches on Madagascar’s northern limestone in the vicinity of Diego Suarez. These new sport cl...
A.A.C., Cascade Section. Section membership in the States stands at about 160, while another 15 live nearby across the Canadian border. Section meetings, all held at the Mountaineers’ club house, included lectures by Jim Janney describing his clim...
Makalu Attempt. A French expedition led by Yves Estienne had as members Rémi Roux, Jean-Pierre Viallet, Jean-Pierre Maissent, Jean-Marc Peltier, Jean- Claude Cartier, Christian Legay, Giuseppe Fournier and Jacques Germain. They were stopped by hig...
Iran. A group of French and Iranian climbers under the leadership of our member Bernard Pierre explored and climbed in the Elburz range. They made several first ascents, including the relatively easy east ridge of Demavend (18,605 feet), which was...
Huayna Potosí, Mururata, Sajama. In June of 1972 the French guides Anselme Baud, Thierry Cardon and Bruno Richard made three new routes: Huayna Potosí by the southwest face1, 3000 feet of very hard ice; Mururata by the southeast spur, 3000 feet of...
Annapurna Attempt. Six Britons, American Richard Nowack and New Zealander Lester Gray, led by Mal Duff, plus two Sherpas, spent three weeks on the north face of Annapurna, making Camps I and II in snow caves and Camp III at 6500 meters at the top ...
Pik Kommunizma. Our 11-member team was composed of Scott Fisher, leader, Wes Krause, Stacey Allison, George Schunk, Brad Udall, Steve Manfredo, Mike Carr, Liz Nichol, Maggie Fox, George Kahrl, and me. Leaving Moscow at midnight, we arrived at the ...
Austvagoy Island, Vagakallen, second ascent of Freya. Dusan Janak and I arrived on the island of Austvagoy hoping to climb on the big north face of Vagakallen (942m). We were welcomed by six days of perfect weather and made the second ascent of Fr...
Menhir, Auyuittuq National Park, Baffin Island. Though somewhat thwarted by bad weather, we managed to do a new route on Menhir, the prominent triangular peak directly behind the Thor Shelter. On August 10, we climbed a snow gully that leads to th...