Mount Raleigh, Gilbert Region. Icewall Lake, a small tarn lying south of the Southgate River, provided Dallas Kloke, Harry Hibler, Bill Eubank, his 13 year old son Chris, and me an excellent approach to the surrounding peaks with only a minimum of...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE (NO) BELAY, MISCOMMUNICATIONColorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Lumpy RidgeOn August 9, Stewart Ritchie (38) fell 60 feet from the top of the route Ziggie’s Day Out (I, 5.10b) on Checkerboard Rock at Lumpy Ridge. Ritch...
Palung Ri, south face. During my days spent acclimatizing for an ascent of Cho Oyu, I noticed a good line on the neighboring peak of Palung Ri (7,100m). I was working in this area as a guide, but bad conditions above 7,000m had confined us to base...
Mandaras Ku, Hindu Kush. During August and September a Franco-Polish expedition explored a valley of the Hindu Kush previously untouched by climbers. They made the first ascent of three 20,000-foot peaks and one of more than 23,000 feet, Mandaras ...
Peak above Kaskawulsh Glacier. Dr. Takeo Yoshino and his wife Kikuko joined the Icefield Ranges Research Project in July and August to study dielectric properties of snow. At the conclusion of the work they made the first ascent of a 10,000-foot p...
Argentine Patagonia, Various Activities. The 1997-98 climbing season in Patagonia began in typical fashion, with frustrated climbers sitting in huts for most of November, December, and January. However, an unprecedented three-week weather window i...
Tirich North Attempt. The members of our expedition were J. Baehler, R. Bregnard, C. Fasel, P. Hofmann, R. Zanon and I. We approached via Chitral, Zani Pass, Shagrom, Atak and the upper Tirich Mir Glacier. We attempted from July 2 to August 7 the ...
Papoose Rock. Of the many satellite rocks near the Squamish Chief, the Papoose is one of the most important. It rises above the ferry dock some four miles south of Squamish, and can be seen in profile against the much larger Chief from the road. J...
Gaurishankar Attempt. An expedition led by Michio Yuasa in the pre-monsoon season was composed of 14 Japanese and three Nepalese. They established three high camps and reached 21,000 feet on the southeast ridge. The route was very long and require...
“Dos Hermanos,” First Ascents. The team (six Chileans and two Argentines), met at Puerto Natales, Chile, in early February, 1999, and after receiving the necessary permits from the national authorities, sailed north toward Puerto Eden in Isla Wel...
Numbur. A joint Nepalese-Swiss expedition was co-led by Jacques Bouvier and Rinze Pasang Lama. There were seven Swiss and four Nepalese trying the 1963 Japanese route on the southwest ridge. They failed at 22,000 feet on May 21, having climbed fro...
Baltoro Kangri. Our objective was 23,990-foot Baltoro Kangri, formerly often called Golden Throne. Our party was composed of Professor Seihei Kato, leader; Dr. Hyoriki Watanabe, deputy leader; Sumio Shima, Keiko Fujimoto, Kiyoki Okada, Takeo Shiba...
Annapurna IV. Our expedition, organized by Auslandsbergfahrten of Graz, Austria, had five Austrians, eight Yugoslavs, two Swiss, a sirdar and two Sherpas. After an eight-day approach from Dumre to Omgre in the Marsiyandi valley in the last days of...
Simian Climbing Club. The 1967-1968 school year started for the Simians at the University of Illinois with the usual fall instructional trips to the sandstone cliffs at Portland Arch, Indiana. There were several trips as well to the Devils Lake cl...
Rassemblement International d’Alpinisme de Haut Niveau. The Rassemblement was held from July 8 to 21 at the Ecole Nationale de Ski et d’Alpinisme in Chamonix, France. All the climbers ate and slept there when they were not climbing. While the scho...
Princess Mountain, Northeast Buttress. Fred Beckey planned our gathering, and we flew into the Monarch Icefield in early August. Matt Perkins, David Parker, Bill Pilling, Fred, and I set up a camp below the west face of Monarch Mountain. The follo...
FALL ON ROCK–HAND-HOLD CAME LOOSE, CLIMBING UNROPEDWyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Symmetry SpireOn July 28 about 1630, Mark Sachs (36) called Teton Dispatch (who transferred the call to rescue coordinator George Montopoli) using a cell phone ...
North Howser Tower, Hey Kool-Aid!; South Howser Tower, Lost in the Talus; Pigeon Feathers, Peek-A-Boo and ICU. I never thought that here in the Bugaboos I would hold my breath for a crappy forecast. Bruce Miller and I had completed four new routes...
Mount Everest. There were Japanese climbers on Mount Everest both before and after the monsoon. An expedition of the Japanese Alpine Club was on the Khumbu Glacier reconnoitering for its proposed expedition to the southwest face. A second group wa...
Makalu Attempt and Kangchungtse Ascent. Our expedition hoped to climb Makalu by the original French route. We were Jordi Agulló, Jordi Anglés. Serge Benet, Antoni Bros, Dr. Josep Canyellas, Adrià Font, Jaume Matas, Jordi Montané, Francesc Zamora, ...