Mount Sanford, Southwest Rib. Jeff Woods and Wes Krause made the first ascent of the southwest rib of Mount Sanford (4949 meters, 16,237 feet), as reported in Climbing of January-February, 1981. Twenty- two miles from the nearest airstrip on the S...

FALLING WHILE DESCENDING, UNROPED—Washington, The Tooth. David Putnam (19) fell while descending “The Tooth.” He was with Steven White (19) and Gary High (18) when he fell 100 feet down a steep snow and rock slope, coming to rest against a tree. H...

• Alaska: A Climbing Guide (Mountaineers $24.95) by Mike Wood and Colby Coombs is a noteworthy guidebook simply because it’s the first comprehensive guide to 80 routes in eight great ranges in Alaska. As Brian Okonek notes in his foreword, this bo...

Poliak Spire, Cathedral Spires, Kichatna Mountains. Chaiki Hara, Hatuyo Kotaki and I were on the Tatina Glacier from July 20 to August 3. Bad weather drove us off the west face of P 7270 on July 27 and off the south rib of P 7133 on July 30, but H...

Mount Emmerich. On July 29 and 30, with two companions I climbed Mount Emmerich (6405 feet), which is just northwest of Haines. We completed the ascent of the northeast ridge, which had been unsuccessfully attempted by Fred Beckey and party in 197...

FALL ON ROCK UNROPEDBritish Columbia, Rocky Mountains, Mt. AssiniboineGreg Ehren (25) and two companions were climbing the north face of Mt. Assiniboine unroped and were near the summit about 0900 hours on 30 August 1979. Near the top, his compani...

Makalu, Southeast Face. In October, Dan Mazur, Jonathon Pratt, Alex Nikifarov and Andy Collins completed the first alpine-style ascent of the southeast ridge of Makalu (8481 meters). An account of their ascent appears earlier in this journal.

British Expedition. Bill Goodfellow, Peter Pollard, David Winstanley and I climbed in Ecuador from January 3 to February 12. Still unacclimatized, we floundered in soft snow which threatened to avalanche on the steep north face of Illiniza Sur unt...

Mount Rainier, Sunset Amphitheatre Headwall. This highly impressive headwall of Rainier’s Sunset Amphitheatre on the mountain’s west side offers a fairly direct route to Liberty Cap. The route we chose begins near the prominent ice cliff, continue...

Warrior I, North Face, Cirque of the Towers, Wind River Range. Jeff Lowe and I made the first ascent on July 25 and 26. The route begins in the center of the north face and goes directly up into the huge dihedral just to the right of the crest. We...

FALL ON ROCK-NO BELAY, LACK OF COMMUNICATIONAlberta, Banff National Park, Back of the LakeOn June 17, two experienced sport climbers were climbing a 25-meter, 5.11a route called Mardi Gras. G.H. (36) had just finished the route on a top rope, and ...

Peaks in Upper Tos Glacier Region, Kulu. Rowland Perriment, Bernie Jones, Dave Waddington, Pete Sinclair, Jim Byrne, Charlie Self and I visited the upper Tos Glacier region in May and June, 1976. We were accompanied by one local, Rigzing Ladakhi. ...

Mururata and Other Peaks. A truck from La Paz took me to Mina San Francisco at 4300 meters. From this mine I hiked up valley to place a camp south of the west glacier of Mururata (5775 meters, 18,947 feet). On June 4 I reached the summit of this p...

Schweizerland, East Greenland. On July 6 we six members of the Swiss and German Greenland Expedition reached our Base Camp on Tasissarsik Fjord. Our objectives were unclimbed peaks in so-called Schweizerland near Angmagssalik. We carried our gear ...

Kilimanjaro, Western Breach. On September 16, Harold Knutson and I ascended and descended this route next to the Arrow Glacier. Beginning at the rarely used 12,500-foot roadhead on the Shira Plateau (only four parties signed in at the national par...

Monkeyfinger Wall and the Leaning Wall, Zion National Park. Drew Bedford and Pokey Amory made an exemplary one-day ascent of Monkeyfinger Wall, adding a one-pitch variation and freeing the entire route at 5.11 + . This is Zion’s longest and most s...

FALLING ROCKWyoming, TetonsOn July 17, 1981, Randy and Duane Taylor (24) were climbing the North Ridge of the Grand Teton. D. Taylor stopped on a ledge on the Grandstand about 200 feet above the Teton Glacier while R. Taylor scrambled on above. Ab...

VARIOUS LEADER FALLS ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED OUT (4), INADEQUATE PROTECTION (2), OLD WEBBING BROKE WHEN WEIGHTED (1)New York, Mohonk Preserve, ShawangunksThere were 17 climbing incidents reported from the Preserve this year. Fourteen happened t...

Latok II, West Face and Northwest Ridge, Ascents, and Other Activity. A mostly German expedition of Alex and Thomas Huber, Toni Gutsch, Franz Fendt, and Christian Schlesener, plus American Conrad Anker, succeeded in making the second and third asc...

Wallace Peak, Vowell Group, South Ridge. From a camp on the east side of the Vowell group, Jim Alt, Volker Vogt and I walked to the small col below the south ridge. From there the initial pitches consisted of moderate fifth-class climbing with som...