Nanga Parbat. Twelve parties, including four from Japan, were given permission for Nanga Parbat in 1985. Fourteen of our expedition set up Base Camp at 4100 meters on May 21, hoping to climb the 1962 German route on the Diamir Face. We established...
Cordillére Blanche, by Georges Kogan and Nicole Leininger. Preface by Maurice Herzog. 160 pages, with 34 illustrations, 5 maps, and frontispiece in color. Paris and Grenoble: B. Arthaud, 1952. Price, 690 Fr. francs.Peru’s enchanting and spectacula...
El Gran Trono Blanco. Paul Piana has written a full article on the first free ascent of the Pan American Route on the Gran Trono Blanco which he made with his wife. This appears earlier in this Journal.El Gran Trono Blanco. This winter, Jeff Holle...
Cumberland Peninsula, Baffin Island. During the month of July Dr. Philip Gribbon and I conducted 'a rather unusual two-man expedition to the Canadian Arctic. We were flown to Cape Dyer, a DEW-line base on the Cumberland Peninsula of eastern Baffin...
FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING UNROPED, PLACED NO PROTECTIONCalifornia, Yosemite ValleyOn July 10, while free soloing Comfortably Numb, a 5.10 climb on Cottage Dome, Susan Green (21) fell about 15-24 meters, landing upright on both feet. He then slid an a...
Laylak and Karavshin Regions, Clarification. Vladimir Kopylov, co-author with Paola Sicouri of Forbidden Mountains, notes that C.I.S. climbers refer to the two famous climbing areas of the Pamir-Alai as the Laylak (or Laylak Ak-Su) Region, home to...
Everest Attempt. In September, the Iranian, Mischa Saleki, who lives in Germany, reached the North Col of Everest from the East Rongbuk Glacier with two Sherpas but did not go higher.
SLIP ON SNOW, UNROPED, HASTE Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Three Sisters, Big SisterAbout 1315 on September 30, 1992, Richard O. and Jim B. were hurrying upward in strong winds on the southwest slopes of the third Sister (2937 meters) when Richard sli...
Gurja Himal Attempt. On October 7, my wife Danielle Fioggiaroli-Gendey, Dr. Dominique Oilier, Jacques Henry, Patrick Huard, Jean-Luc Le Floch and I left Pokhara with 60 porters, hoping to climb the 1969 Japanese route on Gurja Himal (7193 meters, ...
Mulkila IV. A five-member Japanese team was led by Yoshio Kondo. Masahiro Miyamoto and Indian Laxman Singh Rama reached the summit (6517 meters, 21,381 feet) on September 11.Harish Kapadia, Himalayan Club
Langar and P 5877. Two expeditions to Pakistan were successful, but we have not received details. An Italian expedition led by Sergio De Infanti made the first ascent of Langar (23,019 feet). A French expedition led by Walter Michel made the first...
Manaslu Ascents, Tragedy and Attempts. An expedition of 11 Italians led by Paolo Paglino managed to put Silvio Modinelli on the summit via the south face on October 13. Austrian Josef Inhöger, leader of eight Austrians and two Germans, succeeded i...
Our expedition, consisting of Andreas Brun, Adrian Bühler, Heidi Lüdi and me as leader, was in the eastern St. Elias Mountains from May 12 to June 15. We were flown in from Haines Junction by helicopter. We had hoped to be flown to the Alverston...
FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED OUT, OVERCONFIDENTWashington, Peshastin Pinnacles, Orchard RockOn May 15, 1992, I was teaching an inexperienced climber the proper use of protection. I was on sandstone with few places for placing protection. I had ...
Tobsar (6,065m), attempt. In September, Katsuhito Fujikawa and partner made the first known attempt on Tobsar, east-northeast of Chamar (7,161m), which was added to the permitted list in 2002. The two approached via the Shar Khola and the track to...
Mount Rainier, Willis Wall, Thermogenesis. On the last day of winter March 20, Jerome Eberharter, Jon Olson and I ascended the seldom climbed Willis Wall on Rainier. Jerome christened the new route “Thermogenesis.” It followed the 55° couloir to t...
Steeple Peak, North Ridge and Upper West Face: On September 10 Gerry Holdsworth and I got underway from Clear Lake at six a.m., headed for Deep Lake at the base of Steeple and scrambled up easy slabs to the base of the north ridge. The ridge is br...
FALLING ROCKMissouri, Lake of the Ozarks, Truman ReservoirOn October 6, 1994, Phil Rotterman, Cary Winchester and I arrived at the bluffs that abut the Truman Reservoir. We planned to do some sport climbing on some 80 foot high limestone routes.Af...
Arizona Mountaineering Club. The club conducted two basic schools for beginning rock climbers and a lead school for advanced climbers. There were also courses on anchors and advanced ropework as well as orienteering and a seminar in Flagstaff on w...
Mt. Quadra. The N. (lowest) peak of Mt. Quadra, omitted in the ascent of 1910, was first ascended in 1913 by a party of the A. C. C. from the Vermilion Pass camp, the route not being given (C.A.J. v, 136).