Lotte Pine Peak, South Corner. On May 26–27 Miguel Carmona and I established the South Corner (V 5.9 C1) on Lone Pine Peak. Our route takes the most direct line to the area where all of the routes on this part of the south face (Direct South Face,...
Mount Slesse, Northeast Buttress, First Winter Ascent. During the first eight days of March, Jim Nelson and Kit Lewis made the first winter ascent of the northeast buttress of Mount Slesse. After helicoptering to the base, the pair spent the next ...
Mount Huntington, South Ridge. An attempt in early July to climb the entire south ridge was an utter failure. Rotten sugar snow without any base prevailed due to the lack of the normal spring thaw. Avalanching was considerable. However, we did lea...
Peaks 9,035', 9,400'+, and 9,436', first ascents. Peak 11,000', attempt. On June 2 Kelly Bay of Wrangell Mountain Air flew me into the upper Nikonda Glacier at 7,200 feet for reconnaissance. I soloed the east face of Peak 9,035'. The climb started...
Observations on the Chinese Everest Expedition 1960. The most important account of the Chinese Everest undertaking is Shih Chan-Chun’s article, which the news service of New China has circulated and was published in many languages in 1961. In it w...
As always we are extremely grateful to those friends who have given us such great help in putting together this section. Indeed without their assistance it could not exist. We wish to thank in particular Dr. G. O. Dyhrenfurth, Dr. Adolph Diemberge...
Mount Augusta’s South RidgeWilliam PillingMOUNT AUGUSTA STANDS forty miles from the Gulf of Alaska, surrounded by the largest glacial system in North America. Though it seems modest when viewed next to Logan, St. Elias and Vancouver, yet it has a ...
Matt Helliker and I landed in the Ruth Gorge on May 6 to unseasonably warm weather and spotted a good unclimbed line on Mt. Grosvenor. Superb thin ice and mixed climbing in the center of the north face, between the Walsh-Westman routes Warriors Wa...
Moro Rock, East Face, Sequoia National Park. In June, James Cook, David Hickey and I climbed this outstanding eight-pitch route on the lower east face of this grand monolith. The line follows a two-foot-wide quartz dike for the entire route. It is...
Storm Over Denali. Thomas Pollard. Diocese of Springfield Massachusetts, 1995. Video. 50 minutes. $30.00.Mount McKinley: Climbing the West Buttress of Denali. Kevin Flynn. The Flynn Agency, Rochester, New York, 1995. Video. 50 minutes. $29.95.Two ...
Mount Paget, South Georgia. The highest peak of Mount Paget (9625 feet) was climbed for the first time by members of the British Combined Services Expedition to the Antarctic. Following the route taken in the first ascent of the slightly lower wes...
Koh-i-Marchech, West Ridge, Shkurigal Valley, Hindu Kush. In 1968, while making a documentary film (A.A.J., 1969, 16:2, pp. 330-4), we looked fondly at the west ridge of Koh-i-Marchech (c. 20,176 feet)* at the head of the Shkurigal valley, the lar...
Stone Groove. This two-pitch route follows a vertical crack between the Rorp and Independent Pinnacle. Jim Bridwell and I climbed it in May. The crux is a finger jam in a dihedral 20 feet above the ground and the rest of the pitch continues jammin...
The Mountains of Canada, by Randy Morse. Hurtig Publishers—Edmonton, Alberta; Mountaineers, Seattle, 1979. 105 color photographs. Price $29.95.This is the first quality-format overview which I have seen on the aweinspiring mountains of Canada, and...
Green River, Desolation Canyon, The Siren. In April Josh Thompson, Andrew Gram, Lena Laakso, and I put in at Sand Wash with whitewater rafts loaded with beer, food, and camping and climbing gear. This was our approach to a tower that Andrew had se...
Mount Slesse, North Face. In July Rob Kiesel and I climbed the rib on the right side of the narrow north face of Mount Slesse and from its top ascended by the northwest corner to the summit. We stayed near the crests of both the rib and the upper ...
VARIOUS FALLS ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED OUT, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, AND RAPPEL ERRORSNew York, Mohonk Preserve, ShawangunksThere were 29 incidents reported for 2002. More than half were injuries sustained from lead climbing. In eight of the leade...
Quand brillent les Étoiles de Midi, by Marcel Ichac. Paris: Arthaud, 1960. 115 pages of text, 102 photo illustrations, 4 plates in color and a contour map of the area between the Col du Midi and the Tour Ronde. This is the story of the making of a...
Stones of Silence, by George B. Schaller. New York: Viking Press, 1980. 292 pages, 14 color plates, maps and illustrations. Price $15.95.Why should mountaineers read about a zoologist’s scrambles in the Himalaya? Dr. George Schaller’s narrative of...
Shani Peak, Various Ascents. From July 25-September 4, Andreas Amons, Elwin van der Gragt, Benno Netelenbos and Melvin Redeker (the Netherlands) operated with a leave-no-trace objective from a 3920-meter Base Camp in the Upper Shani Valley. Our go...