Peak 4,764m, first ascent, southeast pillar, Xie Xie route. Giovanni Moretti, Riccardo Redaelli, Silvestro Stucchi, and I arrived from Italy and set up base camp at the head of the Changping Valley, between great nameless, unclimbed mountains that...
Kwangde Shar, North Face. The French team of Samuel Beaugey, Christophe Profit, Andre Rhem and Jerome Ruby made an alpine-style ascent of the north face of Kwangde Shar (6093 m) from November 27-December 1. The 1300-meter, 38-pitch route, Extra Bl...
Washington, Cascades, Lundin Peak. On 18 May James Barnett, Robert Rasar, Ann Antonich and George Aspman left the highway at Snoqualmie Pass at 7:30 A.M. to climb Lundin Peak. The day was clear and warm. They observed avalanche activity on adjacen...
The Watchman, Cradle to Grave. In May Dave Jones and I climbed a new 10-pitch route on the northwest face of The Watchman. Our route, Cradle to Grave (V 5.1la C2), starts about 150' left of Hue & Cry. We started in a dark, somewhat hidden, lef...
AVALANCHEAlaska, Mount McKinleyOn May 18, 1982, Don Plumb set off an avalanche on the West Rib of Mount McKinley. Plumb was traversing from the first ice dome at 4100 meters to the second ice dome at 4300 meters on the morning of May 18. As he lef...
Colorado National Monument. Details of routes in Colorado National Monument are available in the new Desert Rock Climbing Guide published in 1987 by the Chockstone Press of Denver. In February, a new route was established on the Oliver Perry-Smith...
Thalay Sagar Attempt. This year P. Minks, C. Rowland, P. Trower, C. Graham, K. Hoppen and I managed to hit the worst spell of Himalayan weather I have ever experienced—avalanches killed 15 people in the area. We didn’t get to within 100 feet of ou...
“Peak 747,” Kuriositeten. Between April 7 and May 3 Eiliv Ruud and I had a great time in the Ruth Gorge. Though bad ice and long sections of vertical or overhanging snow turned us back from four new route attempts, we climbed several outstanding c...
PAUL VICTOR STRUMIA1928-1994Paul V. Strumia of Gladwyne, Pennsylvania, a member of the American Alpine Club since 1950, died after a brief illness on July 4, 1994. Born in Philadelphia, he grew up in Penn Valley, Pennsylvania. He earned a bachelor...
The Aiguille Kismet (13,650 ft.) was ascended from camp in Blaine Basin, to the north of Sneffels, via Dike Col and the east ridge to the southeastern base of the final pinnacle. The climb (not difficult) was finished directly from this point to t...
Die Weisse Spinne—Die Geschichte der Eiger Nordwand by Henrich Harrer. West Berlin: Ullstein A.G., 1958, many illustrations, some colored.Heinrich Harrer, a member of the first rope to climb the Northface of the Eiger, is well qualified to write t...
In late July, Jim Beyer and I made the likely first ascent of Peak 10,510', across the glacier northwest of Mt. Hobbs. We landed on an unnamed glacier on the south side of the range, a mile (at most) from the peak, then scrambled up a scree gully ...
Kusutn Kanguru, North Face Solo. Japanese Hiroshi Aota and Takao Kurosawa placed Advance Base below the north ridge of Kusum Kanguru on April 5 and started up the north ridge, bivouacking on April 6 and 7 at 5300 and 5600 meters, but Kurosawa foun...
Mt. Slaughter, First Ascent. It was reported that Guy Cotter and Terry Gardiner made the first ascent of Mt. Slaughter (ca. 3600m) south of the Vinson Massif. The two sled-hauled for a day, then spent another day reaching the base of Mt. Slaughter...
Tacusiri, Ausangate and Other Peaks, Cordillera Vilcanota. Because of terrorism in the Cordillera Huayhuash, we changed our objective to the Vilcanota. On June 13, Bruce Jardine, Andy Bunnage, John Lyall and I established Base Camp on the banks of...
Moose’s Tooth, East Face Attempt. In early June Lou Dawson, Tom Merrill, Bob Sullivan and I made an attempt on the east face of the Moose’s Tooth. Cliff Hudson flew us to the Buckskin Glacier a half-mile from the base of the climb. Sullivan and I ...
Mount Robie. One and one-half miles north of Ranger Peak is a flat topped summit (10,850 feet), the east ridge of which was climbed from Jackson Lake June 23, 1957 by Leigh and Irene Ortenburger. A cairn but no record was found. A difficult unexpe...
Koz Sar or P 6885 Attempt. A 15-man Japanese expedition led by Keiichi Tsukamoto was given permission to climb Koz Sar (6677 meters, 21,906 feet). The peak which they say they attempted was P 6885 (22,490 feet) on the ridge line between Batura and...
Kärnten, by Gabriel Rossmanith. 24 pages of trilingual text and 167 full-page photographic illustrations. Klagenfurt: Verlag Carinthia, 1951. Price, $2.50.Here is the most satisfying book on the Austrian province of Carinthia that we have seen, an...
In a 36-hour roundtrip push from base camp on February 19–20, 2011, Sean Villanueva and I made an onsight free ascent of the east face of Fitz Roy. We mostly followed El Corazon, but to avoid some wet rock we started with the closest good-lookin...