The Fin WallExploring a little-known Alaskan giant.Freddie WilkinsonPaul didn’t even turn off the engine. The plane just sat there waiting, humming along in the silence of the Yentna Glacier. Ben Gilmore, Peter Doucette, and I stumbled around in t...
Mixed Emotions. Greg Child. The Mountaineers, Seattle, 1993. 256 pages. $14.95 (paper).Stories off the Wall. John Roskelley. The Mountaineers, Seattle, 1993. Color and black-and-white photographs. 223 pages, $22.95.Together these books provide a g...
When in Doubt, Go Higher: Mountain Gazette Anthology, M. John Fayhee, editor, (Mountain Sports Press $18.95) collects together essays from 1972-’79 along with a few selections from the new MG, relaunched in 1999. AAJ readers will recognize David R...
British Columbia, Mount Waddington—A Canadian party consisting of Derrick Boddy, John Owen, Elfrida Pigou and Joan Stirling disappeared between July 30 and August 1, while attempting an ascent of Mount Waddington, and are presumed to have been kil...
Ranrapalca, Northeast Ridge Attempt. Our team was almost the same as in 1973: Mile. Renée Turc, Gerard Maillard, Dr. Christian Hurbin and I. This July we got to a point about 425 feet below the north summit of Ranrapalca (19,948 feet). Our high ca...
University Peak, Northeast Face. The unclimbed slabs of the northeast face of bulky University Peak glistened as Joe Brown, Dan Clements, and I hiked up the popular Kearsarge Pass Trail, and then veered off to Slim Lake to camp. It seemed strange ...
PRE-EXISTING MEDICAL CONDITION–FAILURE TO INFORM GUIDESAlaska, Mount McKinley, West ButtressOn June 16, John Cloe (59), a client of a guided Rainier Mountaineering, Inc., expedition began experiencing chest pain the late afternoon while climbing t...
Genyen, North Spur; Sachun, east face, attempt. When we left Italy, we possessed only a few satellite photos and little information on the region we had chosen for our adventure. We traveled to the area by jeep on ever-worsening roads. The last da...
An Attempt on Mt. Robson. In July 1951 John Oberlin, A. E. Creswell and Fred Ayres attempted the Schauffelberger arête on Mt. Robson, but turned back at about 11,200 ft. because of dangerous snow conditions. Our high point was 1300 ft. below that ...
Our expedition was composed of Sebastia Figuerola, Francesc Magriñá, Enric Dalmau, Oscar Cadiac, Joan Roig, Xavier Azagra, Pere Benaiges, Alex Osso, Josep María Monserrat and me as leader. While we were waiting for our equipment to arrive and be c...
Recon: Titcomb BasinSpanning 80 miles of the Continental Divide, Wyoming’s Wind River Mountains bold some of America’s favorite wilderness rock. The southern granite is famous. The north?Have a look for yourself.Joe KelseyPrior to 1969 I’d climbed...
The Mountaineers. Although the Basic Climbing Course class was slightly smaller than usual with 215 people, the number of graduates at the end of the season was as large as usual, slightly over 100. Interest and activity in the Intermediate Climbi...
Klondike Lake Region, Wind River Range. Bob Held and I made several first ascents in the Klondike Lake region of the Wind River Range before joining Adams Carter’s group. On June 20, from camp on the south side of Klondike Lake we climbed a promin...
Schweizerland, Various Ascents. It was reported that an Italian expedition of Luigi Airone, Paolo Cavagnetto, Fabio Jacchini, Ercole Passera, Allessandro Quagliolo and Cesare Racaschietto skied from Tasilaq with 100-kilo pulkas to the mountains ar...
High-Altitude Research Atop Canada’s Highest PeakJoseph C. LabelleAssisted by Charles S. Houston, M.D.In 1967 the Arctic Institute established a high-altitude research station on Mount Logan and began a long-range study of high-altitude physiology...
The Living Giants of KamchatkaJosef Dobkin, Wilderness Club, Novosibirsk, Siberia, USSRFOR AN HOUR AND A HALF I was unable to keep my eyes away from the window of the airplane. I was gazing at the majesty of the white pyramids of the Kamchatka vol...
Emerging from the mistsThe sublime alpine peaks of Sikkim, India.By Roger PayneThe former Himalayan kingdom of Sikkim is one of the most varied, beautiful, and compact regions of the Himalayas. Now a state in the northeast corner of India, Sikkim ...
One-day Climbs, Cordillera Real. It is possible to climb Andean peaks in a single day from La Paz. On my first season back in Bolivia after an absence of ten years, I took advantage of this unique situation and accumulated nine such climbs, as wel...
Denali National Park and Preserve, summary. The 2001 climbing season finished on a great note this year, with safe and successful experiences enjoyed by climbers, guides, and pilots, as well as the National Park Service. In fact long-time park emp...
Peaks above Gazin Gol. Munetsugu Nieda of the Gakushuin University Expedition led Mayayuki Tokita and Shigeo Chigira. They left Chitral on July 7 and traveled through Moroi, Brep and Gazin up the Gazin Gol to the Golash Gol where they established ...