Rocky Mountain National Park: The Climbers Guide. Bernard Gillet. Earth- bound Press, 1993. 271 pages, black-and-white photos, maps and diagrams. $21.95.Comment: This guide covers the most popular climbing areas in Rocky Mountain National Park as ...

Royal Tower, Canadian Bacon, and Thunder Mountain, Maxim. Shawn Huisman and I climbed two new routes during a two-week door-to-door trip to the Alaska Range. This was our first climbing trip to Alaska, and we consider ourselves lucky to have pulle...

AVALANCHENew Hampshire, Mount WashingtonAlbert Dow, a member of the New Hampshire Mountain Rescue Service, died in an avalanche near the base of the Lion’s Head while engaged in a search for two missing climbers (see previous report). The details ...

Masherbrum LaRichard M. and Patricia H. EmersonIN the summer of ’74 our party1 discovered that the Masherbrum La does exist, it is passable, and it opens up one of the most splendid mountain tours in the world.Virtually all previous trips into the...

FALL ON ICE, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT–DULL CRAMPONSOregon, Mount Hood, South SideOn March 23, two climbers (both 22) were descending the South Side standard route on Mount Hood. One of the climbers lost his footing at the “Pearly Gates” (roughly 11,00...

The Last Sandwich— A Beta-MinimumThomas HigginsTHE OPPOSITE OF A BETA-MAX is a beta-min: a route with scanty information about difficulty or direction or history. It may not be in a local guidebook because it is too new. Or perhaps the first-ascen...

AVALANCHE, CLIMBING UNROPEDAlaska, ValdezOn April 6, 1984, Glenn Larson (31), of Valdez, Alaska, was climbing with four partners on a peak which rises to 1500 meters out of the east side of the Valdez Arm.The initial part of the ascent had been on...

Condoriri Area, Various Ascents and Map Correction. The 2000 Cordillera Real Expedition from the Colorado State University Outdoor Adventure Program climbed a number of peaks in the Condoriri area, and made an ascent of a rarely climbed, but spect...

HANS KRAUS 1906-1996 Dr. Hans Kraus died on March 5, 1996, in his home in New York City. He had been a member of the Club for 55 years. He was best known in the climbing world for his pioneering efforts in developing the Shawangunks. He also mad...

AVALANCHE, CLIMBING UNROPED, PLACED NO PROTECTIONAlaska, Denali National Park, Mount Barrill, Japanese CouloirOn Tuesday evening, May 15th, Andre Callari (33) and Brian Postlethwait (32) set out from their basecamp on the Ruth Glacier to climb the...

AUGUST SEVERIN EGGERS1862-1936Dr. August Eggers died of pernicious anemia on October 7th, 1936, at the age of seventy-three. Norwegian by birth, he received his M.D. from the Kongelige Frederiks Universitet Medisinske Fakultet, in Oslo, in 1889. F...

El Pico Erin, Xiuhtecuhtli. Xiuhtecuhtli is named for the God of Fire of the Nahuatl Cultures. The route, located in La Huasteca Canyon on El Pico Erin, is almost 500m high. Erin is beside the sacred wall of Tatewari, Grandfather Fire to the Hiuch...

Kilimanjaro and Other African ClimbsHenry S. Hall, Jr.ABOUT fifteen hours south of the rugged island of Madeira, on the voyage from England to Cape Town, we passed at night the Peak of Teneriffe, rising over 12,000 ft. from the sea, a dormant volc...

The Grand VoyageA solo enchainment of 10 Alpine faces in 15 daysby Jean-Christophe Lafailletranslation by Ernest SachsMonday, April 3After a railroad journey across beautiful bucolic Swiss countryside, I arrive at the Petite Scheidegg and the foot...

THEODORE E. SEILER 1908-1981Theodore E. Seiler, Chairman of the Board of the world reknowned Seiler Hotels in Zermatt, Switzerland, died in Zermatt on August 17, 1981.Theodore Seiler was born on August 4, 1908 at the Monte Rosa Hotel in Zermatt. H...

Nanga Parbat, Northeast Face, New Route. In July, Reinhold Messner, his brother Hubert Messner, Hanspeter Eisendle, and climber/cameraman Wolfgang Tomaseth traveled to Nanga Parbat. Hubert doubled as the expedition doctor. After 14 years of abstin...

Taghia, Oujdad, west face, A Little Less Conversation. In March and April our team of German climbers, accompanied by the British couple Sarah and Tony Whitehouse, spent three weeks at Taghia. We were slow to get moving due to a surprising return ...

FALLING ROCK–DISLODGED BY PARTY ABOVEWyoming, Devil's Tower National Monument, Pseudo WeissnerOn May 29, Rita Sanders (46) of Bellview, Nebraska, was injured by a falling rock while climbing on Devils Tower. Sanders was climbing the Pseudo Weissne...

High Level: The Alps from End to End. David Brett. Victor Gollancz, North Pomfret (Vermont), 1983. 207 pages, black and white photographs, sketch maps. $23.50.In the summer of 1981, David Brett, an English writer, artist and climber, made a solo, ...

Summary of activities. In late January an experienced team of Russian mountaineers flew in to Dronning Maud Land, aiming to make a number of ascents among the spectacular spires for which this area is now famous. The group flew from Cape Town, Sou...