Simvo. An Indian Army Medical Corps team was led by Major Subhendu Sen. Base Camp was established on the Zemu Glacier beside Green Lake at 16,200 feet on September 16. Three more camps were set up at 17,500, 19,000 and 20,340 feet. On September 26...
Englishwoman Alison Hargreaves, Americans Henry Kendall, Marc Twight, Tom Frost and I were active in the Khumbu region near Everest during the pre-monsoon season, climbing two new routes and attempting a third. All were done pure alpine-style.Kend...
In May, Marko Prezelj and I visited Peru, where neither of us had been. We started our acclimatization with cragging on La Esfinge (5,325m). We first climbed the first three pitches of Cruz del Sur, originally graded 7c+ (5.13a), 7a (5.11d) obliga...
Leo Pargial. M.H. Johnson of Sherwood College, Nainital led a group of six students from St. Stephen’s College, Delhi. They made Base Camp a day above Nako below the Leo Pargial Glacier. Johnson and Duke climbed P 19,200, northwest of Base Camp, o...
Agujas Poincenot and Guillaumet, 1989-90. Much bad weather curtailed climbing during that season. Aguja Poincenot was climbed on January 4 via the Whillans route by Spaniards Rolando Luis Fernández, Ramón Portilla, Antonio Trabado and Czech Mirosl...
Hidden Peak Attempt. A French expedition led by Pierre Mazeaud, which was much publicized before its departure, apparently failed to climb Hidden Peak. No details have been made available.
Mazeno Peak Attempt on Northwest Face. José Luis Zuloaga, Kike de Pablo and I attempted a new route on Mazeno Peak (7120 meters, 23,360 feet) on the Diamir side of Nanga Parbat. We climbed alpine-style from July 29 to August 6. We failed to climb ...
Washington—Casades—Crested Buttes: Eugene Hull (20), Wallace Carey (21) and John Crawford (23) went on a mountain trip on Crested Butte on 4 October 1953. They were not roped and the terrain over which they travelled was not considered difficult b...
Changtse, South Face Attempt. On September 3, Dan Langmade, Stan Mish, Guy and Yvette Toombs and I crossed the Nepalese border into Tibet and arrived at the Everest Base Camp on the 6th. On September 9 we made our Base Camp on the East Rongbuk Gla...
Makalu, Kangchungtse and Chomo Lönzo. The twelve climbers of our Condor Adventures expedition established Base Camp at 5300 meters on the Barun Glacier on April 2. Just eleven days later, supported by the rest of the team, Russian staff member Ana...
Isaac, Stigmata. In September, Fly’n Brian McCray and I hoped to climb the elusive Middendorf-Shipley route the Radiator in a single push. Then we saw it: a stunning overhanging headwall split with a climber’s dream, a perfect comer for well over ...
Himalchuli, from the north. The Ukrainian National Himalayan Expedition climbed Himalchuli (7,893m) from the Lidanda Glacier to the north. Jointly led by Mstislav Gorbenko and Sergey Pugachev, the eight-member team arrived at the 3,600m base camp ...
Jonathan Copp 1974-2009Of all my friends who live their lives, I never thought that he would die. And even if he did, I thought he would surely rise like a Phoenix and keep on living.We last climbed together in the summer of 2008—life gets busy, I...
Gorichen East, Ascent. An Indian expedition from Calcutta, led by Asit Kr. Paul, summit- ted Gorichen East (6422 m ) on October 18. Summitters were Asit Paul, Sherpa Karma and Sherpa Dawa.Harish Kapadia, Editor, The Himalayan Journal
In 2011, after authorities denied me a visa to return to Socotra Island, Yemen, due to war mayhem, I looked at my long list of areas to explore, with more than 20 expeditions on the docket. Batu Daya caught my eye; I had never been there. The firs...
Risky Business on San LorenzoA single~push new route on Patagonia’s second-highest peak.Jordi CorominasOriol Baró and I had intended to climb elsewhere in the autumn of 2008, but due to permit problems we were forced to look for a new objective. P...
Mountaineering Women: Stories by Early Climbers. Edited, with an Introduction by David Mazel. Texas A & M University Press, 1994. 184 pages, black-and-white photographs, bibliography. $27.50 hardcover, $14.95 paperback.When I was asked to revi...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE BELAY, MISCOMMUNICATIONWashington, Peshastin PinnaclesWhile I have no memory of this accident, I have been able to reconstruct the event based upon the observations of my climbing partner, Lynn. On May 22, she and I climbe...
THE NEACOLA RANGE, neatly tucked into the Lake Clark National Park in Alaska, has effortlessly kept climbers from converting it into a mountaineering goal. Neacola, its highest peak at 9426 feet, had spumed two previous attempts. The only publishe...
Yosemite in the Sixties. Glen Denny. Santa Barbara, CA. Patagonia and T. Adler Books. 2007.106 black and white photos. 144 pages. Hardcover. $60.00.If you take a chunk of the real world and shove it through a lens, voila, you have a photograph. So...