Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Colombia, Nevado de Cocuy

Nevado de Cocuy. Six Colombian students, Santiago Péerez, Pancho and Sergio Gaviria, Juan Manuel Diaz, Andrés Uribe and Pepe Luis Moreno, climbed Ritacuba Blanco (17,926. feet) on March 25. Moreno and S. Gaviria also made the first Colombian ascen...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Annapurna Dakshin

Annapurna Dakshin, Southeast Ridge Attempt. On October 14, only four days out from Kathmandu, Susan Diprima, Jim Jennings, John Lapkass, Geoff Radford, Dave Sullivan and I as leader reached Base Camp at 13,500 feet in the Annapurna Sanctuary. The ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, California, Sierra Nevada, Reed Pinnacle Area, Old 5.10, Yosemite

Reed Pinnacle Area, Old 5.10, Yosemite. Pat and Paula Ament and I climbed the knobby wall left of Lunatic Fringe in June. This short but demanding climb is protected by three bolts and involves several F10 sections. NCCS I, F10.Tom Higgins


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Teram Kangri

Teram Kangri. The Shizuoka University Alpine Club expedition was led by Hajime Katayama and had 17 other members. They left Khapalu on June 1 and traveled via Goma, Ali Bransa, the Bilafond La, Lolofond and Siachen Glaciers to reach Base Camp at 1...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Slick Yeti Expedition

Slick Yeti Expedition. Another expedition sponsored by Tom Slick and led by Peter Byrne spent several months in Nepal fruitlessly searching for Yeti.


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, California, Sierra Nevada, The Needles, Warlock Needle, Imaginary Voyage

The Needles, Warlock Needle, Imaginary Voyage. In August Dick Leversee and I made an ascent of this five-pitch route up the east face of Warlock Needle. The first lead starts in a long, left-slanting jam- crack on the right-hand portion of the eas...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Peru—Cordillera Blanca, Caullaraju

Caullaraju. The Edelweiss Club’s all-women’s expedition successfully climbed Caullaraju ( 18,655 feet; first ascent on July 14, 1962 by Domingos Giobbi, Emilio and Macario Angeles). From a camp at 16,750 feet the climb was made on May 22 by Ryuko ...


Accident Reports ANAM
Falling Rock, Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount Fay

FALLING ROCKAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount FayOn August 2, a party of three were climbing the center ice bulge on the North Face Ice routes when one of the climbers was hit by rockfall, sustaining a lower leg fracture. The party lowered the injur...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India, Kumaon and Garhwal, Shivling Ascents

Shivling Ascents. It was reported that the husband-and-wife team of Stevie Haston and Laurence Gouault ascended the Original Route of Shivling in one and a half days from basecamp. Other ascensionists were Ed Douglas, Tom Prentice, and three Czech...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Peru—Cordillera Blanca, Huascarán on Two Artificial Legs

Huascarán on Two Artificial Legs. In early August the Englishman, Norman Croucher, who has two artificial legs, climbed to the summits of both Huascarán and Pisco. He was accompanied by Terry Tullis and his wife Julie, Dennis Kemp, Mike Welham, M...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India, Attempts on Tirsuli and Nanda Devi East, Garhwal

Attempts on Tirsuli and Nanda Devi East, Garhwal. Our seven-man team left Delhi on April 15, and with seven Sherpas and over 100 porters reached the Tirsuli Base Camp, at Rugus, whence the Poles had made their attempt in 1939. Strong winds and hea...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Argentina/Chile, Tupungato, Andina

For those interested in South American mountaineering, the May-June number of Andina contains an article on an attempt on Tupungato and the ascent of Tupungatito (both of which were ascended by the well-known Fitzgerald expedition in 1897) accompa...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, California, Sierra Nevada, Tehipite Dome, Wall of Ages

Tehipite Dome, Wall of Ages. Last summer John Fehrman, Bryan Sweeney, and I completed a route (Wall of Ages V-VI 5.11+ A0) up the main south face of this magnificent dome in Kings Canyon National Park. This three-year project had involved Richard ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Peru, Cordillera Huayhuash

Cordillera Huayhuash. Kwansai University’s expedition was led by Dr. Hirohito Sugihara and consisted of Akira Kozuki, Kunio Hisano, Yoshihiko Kondo, Tsutomu Nakano, Toshimi Yonekawa, Yoshihiro Ikeuchi, Shin-ichi Hibi and Yuichi Hasegawa. Leaving L...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, Failure of Rappeller, Climbing Unroped, North Carolina, Crowders Mountain

FALL ON ROCK, FAILURE OF RAPPELLER, CLIMBING UNROPEDNorth Carolina, Crowders MountainIn April 1981, a person was rappelling from Crowders Mountain when he knocked off an unroped climber. (Source: T. C. P. Zimmermann)AnalysisWhile there are no furt...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Washington-Cascades, Amphitheater Mountain, Sunday Morning Buttress

Amphitheater Mountain, Sunday Morning Buttress. On July 27 Don Monk and I did a short climb on this buttress located one mile northeast of the summit. It is prominent from Cathedral Pass. The route begins on the left of a 50-foot pillar and contin...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, P 8300, Buckskin Glacier, Alaska Range

P 8300, Buckskin Glacier, Alaska Range. From March 25 to April 9, Rick Erst, George Menard, Ted Moore, Pete Robinson and I skied from road to road up the Ruth Glacier and down the Buckskin Glacier, crossing via 7950-foot “Window Pass” to the nor...

| Published 2013


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Manaslu II

Manaslu II. A third Japanese expedition attempted to climb Manaslu II (Peak 29) (25,705 feet) but failed to reach the summit.


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, California, Three Teeth, Southeast Tooth

Three Teeth, Southeast Tooth, Northeast Face, 1987. In September 1987, Bruce Runnals and I climbed this five-pitch route left of the original Rowell-Jones-Beckey route. All five pitches were 5.10 (III).Al Swanson


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, California—Yosemite, Geek Towers

Geek Towers. Jim Bridwell and Mark Clemens reached the top of two narrow, converging buttresses between Yosemite Falls and the Lost Arrow Chimney, which they named Geek Towers. About 800 feet up; 1 day. NCCS III, F10, A3.ROYAL ROBBINS