Ancohuma, 21,030 ft., in the Cordillera Real of Bolivia, has after the lapse of a number of years been climbed again, also by German climbers. Messrs. Erwin Hein and Hans Weber succeeded during a week’s trip from Sorata in ascending the mountain f...
Lizard Head, East Face. Highest peak in the Cirque of the Towers region, 12,842-foot Lizard Head is a long scramble from Lonesome Lake, but the “east face, overlooking Bear Lake, is a series of overhanging upside-down ledges, impossible to contemp...
Conness, Plan B. In June Paul Teare and I went in to Conness with a plan to climb the Harding Route, while keeping a keen eye on the possibility of something new. We realized our fate when we saw two climbers above us heading toward the Harding Ro...
AVALANCHEWashington, Mount RainierThis accident occurred as a RMI guided team was descending from the summit. Two rope teams were clipped into the same fixed line when the avalanche occurred. The avalanche caught the first rope team, which pulled ...
Palung Peak, Siguang Peak, Cho Oyu, Attempts and Ascents. Together with my wife Marija I joined the Croatian Cho Oyu Expedition led by Darko Berljak. Above basecamp we worked separately. We wanted to climb a new route on the northwest ridge of the...
Two Other Attempts on Siulá Chico. A solo attempt by the German Fritz Stammberger and another try by a Japanese expedition from Kansai University of seven climbers led by Hiroshi Sugihara met with very little success.
St. Elias, Southwest Ridge. Josef Hassler and I made the eleventh ascent of Mount St. Elias, the fourth of the southwest ridge and the first in alpine style. We took eight days round trip from Base Camp. We were flown from Yakutat by Mike Ivers on...
Mt. McKinley’s northwest face, Father and Sons Wall, The Great White Fright. Having barely survived the crux of any Alaskan trip, we dragged ourselves from the acrid atmosphere of the Fairview and flew to Kahiltna base camp. Exchanging hangover fo...
FALL ON ROCK, FAILURE OF RAPPELLER, CLIMBING UNROPEDNorth Carolina, Crowders MountainIn April 1981, a person was rappelling from Crowders Mountain when he knocked off an unroped climber. (Source: T. C. P. Zimmermann)AnalysisWhile there are no furt...
Lucania, Steele, Sluggard, Macauly.* On June 16, Robbie Babb, Bob and Richie Kyrlach and I, all from Albuquerque, were flown by Jack Wilson to Base Camp at the head of the Chitina Glacier. Although the highest peaks had been climbed from other dir...
Table Mountain, Death Picnic. Due west of Austin Pass and the Mount Baker Ski Area is a mesa-like peak called Table Mountain. When it is cold, the east and northwest faces offer good one- and two-pitch ice climbs. In December of 1985 I attempted a...
Moose’s Tooth. In July Yvon Chouinard, Galen Rowell, Sandy Bill and I made another attempt on the southeast face of the Moose’s Tooth. After two days on the face in good weather we reached the high point of the year before. However I fell sick and...
Langpo Gang, Jugal Himal. Another Japanese expedition was also in Nepal at the same time. Under the leadership of Tokujiro Kajimoto, they climbed to within a few hundred feet of the summit of Langpo Gang (Big White Peak) (23,240 feet) but they had...
Kharchakund. Our expedition consisted of the following: Yoshiki Yamanaka, Masao Mizuno, Toshiharu Hashimoto, Yoshitaka Tanimura, Kaoru Ueno and me as leader. We climbed the west ridge from the Ghanohim Glacier. There had been three unsuccessful In...
Hawk’s Beak, West Face. This peak is 11,120 feet high, a quarter mile south of Kirkwood Lake. It is a crest peak, helping form the northern boundary of Yosemite National Park. It is listed in the old Smatko guide, but does not appear in the Roper ...
FALL ON ROCK, INEXPERIENCE, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount FryattOn August 18, 1985, two men (35 and 15) left their high camp and climbed all day on the southwest face of Mt. Fryatt. They had only climbing boots and day packs...
Saser Kangri, Second Ascent. Saser Kangri (25,170 feet) was first climbed in 1973 by an Indian expedition led by Jogindar Singh. It was climbed again in 1979 by 13 of the 50-member Army team led by Colonel Jagjit Singh. Major Prem Chand was deputy...
CB 14. A Japanese party made the first ascent of CB 14, climbing the east ridge. They climbed an icefall to reach a col on the east ridge at 17,500 feet. On September 10, after a bivouac on the col, Akira Yoshitomi and Toshio Kurihara reached the ...
El Capitan, New Route. This year Rick Sylvester and Claud Wreford-Brown made a new route between the Heart Direct and the John Muir Route, using part of the lower Muir and going up the right side of the Heart (the Kroger-Davis route goes up the le...
Namshila. Thirteen Japanese men and three women led by Shohei Komiya were given permission to climb a 6595-meter peak, Namshila. Base Camp was set up at 5070 meters on the Godhu Chu (river). Camp I was placed on a snow plateau at 5400 meters. The ...