Cerro Cubo and Cerro Sonntag, Southern Continental Icecap. An expedition to the Continental Icecap was headed by Luciano Pera and made up of Argentines Mario González, my son Toncek Arko, Juan Pablo Nicola, Pedro Tolon, Alejandro Alvarez and Austr...
Monte Sarmiento, Attempt. Nelson Bareta and Nativo Fransen of Brazil, and Eduardo Lopez, Mariano Sebesta, and Walter Rossini of Argentina departed December 14 from Puerto Bahía Mansa with the goal of repeating the 1995 route on Monte Sarmiento. Du...
FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION CAME OUTColorado, Boulder Canyon, Cobb RockA 20-year-old Air Force Academy cadet fell about 65 feet while still attached to his line during a climb at Cobb Rock in Boulder Canyon on August 17. The initial report from a wit...
Various areas in Utah. In Canyonlands National Park, the 32nd ascent of Standing Rock was made by a new route, three pitches on the east face. Easter Bunny (5.8, A4) was climbed on Easter weekend by Barry McLane and Simon Peck. In the San Rafael S...
FALL IN CREVASSE, UNROPEDAlberta, Rocky Mountains, French GlacierA party of three was traveling, unroped, down the French Glacier on the morning of August 13, 1990, when one of them, D.D., fell into a crevasse. He was unable to extricate himself, ...
Cho Oyu, Southeast Face Attempt and Assault. Our Belgian expedition, consisting of Louis Lange, Régis Maincent, Michel Brent and me as leader, attempted to make a winter ascent of the southeast face of Cho Oyu. We established Base Camp, Camps I an...
Nevado de Cocuy. Six Colombian students, Santiago Péerez, Pancho and Sergio Gaviria, Juan Manuel Diaz, Andrés Uribe and Pepe Luis Moreno, climbed Ritacuba Blanco (17,926. feet) on March 25. Moreno and S. Gaviria also made the first Colombian ascen...
Annapurna Dakshin, Southeast Ridge Attempt. On October 14, only four days out from Kathmandu, Susan Diprima, Jim Jennings, John Lapkass, Geoff Radford, Dave Sullivan and I as leader reached Base Camp at 13,500 feet in the Annapurna Sanctuary. The ...
Reed Pinnacle Area, Old 5.10, Yosemite. Pat and Paula Ament and I climbed the knobby wall left of Lunatic Fringe in June. This short but demanding climb is protected by three bolts and involves several F10 sections. NCCS I, F10.Tom Higgins
Teram Kangri. The Shizuoka University Alpine Club expedition was led by Hajime Katayama and had 17 other members. They left Khapalu on June 1 and traveled via Goma, Ali Bransa, the Bilafond La, Lolofond and Siachen Glaciers to reach Base Camp at 1...
Slick Yeti Expedition. Another expedition sponsored by Tom Slick and led by Peter Byrne spent several months in Nepal fruitlessly searching for Yeti.
The Needles, Warlock Needle, Imaginary Voyage. In August Dick Leversee and I made an ascent of this five-pitch route up the east face of Warlock Needle. The first lead starts in a long, left-slanting jam- crack on the right-hand portion of the eas...
Caullaraju. The Edelweiss Club’s all-women’s expedition successfully climbed Caullaraju ( 18,655 feet; first ascent on July 14, 1962 by Domingos Giobbi, Emilio and Macario Angeles). From a camp at 16,750 feet the climb was made on May 22 by Ryuko ...
FALLING ROCKAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount FayOn August 2, a party of three were climbing the center ice bulge on the North Face Ice routes when one of the climbers was hit by rockfall, sustaining a lower leg fracture. The party lowered the injur...
Shivling Ascents. It was reported that the husband-and-wife team of Stevie Haston and Laurence Gouault ascended the Original Route of Shivling in one and a half days from basecamp. Other ascensionists were Ed Douglas, Tom Prentice, and three Czech...
Huascarán on Two Artificial Legs. In early August the Englishman, Norman Croucher, who has two artificial legs, climbed to the summits of both Huascarán and Pisco. He was accompanied by Terry Tullis and his wife Julie, Dennis Kemp, Mike Welham, M...
Attempts on Tirsuli and Nanda Devi East, Garhwal. Our seven-man team left Delhi on April 15, and with seven Sherpas and over 100 porters reached the Tirsuli Base Camp, at Rugus, whence the Poles had made their attempt in 1939. Strong winds and hea...
For those interested in South American mountaineering, the May-June number of Andina contains an article on an attempt on Tupungato and the ascent of Tupungatito (both of which were ascended by the well-known Fitzgerald expedition in 1897) accompa...
Tehipite Dome, Wall of Ages. Last summer John Fehrman, Bryan Sweeney, and I completed a route (Wall of Ages V-VI 5.11+ A0) up the main south face of this magnificent dome in Kings Canyon National Park. This three-year project had involved Richard ...
Cordillera Huayhuash. Kwansai University’s expedition was led by Dr. Hirohito Sugihara and consisted of Akira Kozuki, Kunio Hisano, Yoshihiko Kondo, Tsutomu Nakano, Toshimi Yonekawa, Yoshihiro Ikeuchi, Shin-ichi Hibi and Yuichi Hasegawa. Leaving L...