Illimani, Huayna Potosí, Cordillera Real. After climbing in the Cordillera Yauyos in Peru, we went to the Cordillera Real. (See full names there.) On July 8 Mac and I and on July 10 Jedlinski, Malinowski, Star and Wasiak climbed Illimani by the no...
Teng Kang Poche, northeast Pillar attempt, and Tengi Ragi Tau South, south ridge. Our expedition lasted from October 1 to November 8. We went to the Khumbu at this time because during our autumn visit there the previous year we had enjoyed very go...
K2 Attempt. Gary Ball and I received permission to climb the Abruzzi Spur of K2 in May due to the late cancellation of another team. We arrived at Base Camp in early July and established just one fixed camp at 6800 meters above House’s Chimney. Du...
Noshaq. On August 13 Swiss Guido Pagoni and I were in Camp III at 23,000 feet. The following two days we were unable to proceed because of very high winds and on the third night the wind threatened to rip the tent apart. On the 16th Guido had had ...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION – FAILURE TO BRING RACK, FAILURE TO TURN BACK – WEATHERWyoming, Grand Teton National Park, East Face of Mount TeewinotOn August 16 about 0500, Brian Barwatt (31) and I (Van Roberts, 22) departed the Lupine Meado...
Mount Amon-Ra, East Face, Purcells. Lured by accounts of dizzying, steep, sound quartzite on the walls of the Egyptian Peaks, west of the Jumbo-Karnak massif and on the Glacier Creek-Jumbo Creek watershed, Craig Martinson and I hiked to timberline...
Alpamayo Attempt, P 5600, Artesonraju Attempt, Millishraju. Supy Bullard and I made an early season trip to the Cordillera Blanca April 22 -June 6. On May 3 we started climbing up from the lowest point of the bergschrund on Alpamayo's southwest fa...
Garnergrat-Chronick, issued by the Gornergrat Railway Co., 62 pages, illustrated. Brigue: 1958.This is a pleasant brochure commemorating the 60th anniversary of the Gornergrat railroad through 30 summers and 30 combined summer and winter seasons. ...
Tranquility Dome, Blind Ambitions. In August Fremont Bainbridge and I climbed a new route on this dome near Mammoth Pool Reservoir. Our route is to the right of Visions (A.A.J., 1976), and lies between the central arch and the prominent, left-faci...
Spider Peak, Northeast Face. In mid-September Jerry Fuller, Alex Ber- tulis and I entered the northeast end of the range to climb one of the faces of Spider Peak, a high peak of some reputation which apparently resembled Squaretop. Although the lo...
FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING ALONE AND UNROPEDNorth Carolina, Crowders MountainOn March 13, 1994, Shawn MacDonald (17) fell 80 feet to his death while climbing solo. (Source: Deidri Sarver, Ranger)AnalysisAccording to a newspaper report in the Charlotte...
Petit Aiguille du Dru. Mr. James T. Van Rensselaer has kindly sent us the account of the third ascent of this peak, made by himself in 1884, as recorded in the Continental (Geneva) Times.Opposite the Montanvert, rising almost directly from the Mer...
Mount Jankowski, Southwest Face. A rapid trip to the spectacular peaks northeast of the Granduc Mine, near Stewart, was facilitated by a helicopter approach to the col between the second and third peaks of Jankowski. To take advantage of the curre...
Sugarloaf Dome, Kings Canyon Area. The unsuspected number of granite domes on the west side of the Sierra Nevada is surprising. Alan Roberts and I found a very picturesque dome of the exfoliating type on the high benchland north of Kings Canyon in...
Lone Pine Peak, Windhorse. In August, Em Holland and I established a new route on the South Face of Lone Pine Peak. Windhorse (V 5.10 A3) ascends the huge, left-facing crescent dihedral several hundred feet west of the Direct South Face route. Aft...
Akher Chioh and Kotgaz Zom. The members of the Graz section of the Austrian Alpine Club (Ö.A.V.) expedition were Hanns Schell, his wife Liselotte and Rainer Göschl. They traveled overland from Austria to Pakistan past Peshawar to Dir. Thence they ...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, NO HARD HAT Connecticut, Ragged Mountain, ValhallaThere was a fatal accident on September 16 at the “Small Cliff” at Ragged Mountain in Connecticut. Following is the account of what I believe happened. At 1910,...
Peak 13,198, Ruby Wall. The east face of this peak is a vertical, 900-foot wall that is reflected in the waters of Ruby Lake, near the Mono Pass trail. On July 10, Mike White and I approached the face entirely on snow for the last 1500 feet, due t...
HAND-HOLD CAME LOOSE, FALL ON ROCK, PLACED NO PROTECTIONCalifornia, Yosemite ValleyOn January 26, Katherine Davis (31) was climbing on Supplication (5.10). She was leading a 5.8 approach to set a belay at a ledge when the rock handhold she was hol...
Mount Logan on Skis. Arno Dennig, Gerwalt Pichler, Bruno Kraker and Hanns Schell of Austria, Karl Hub of Germany, and Hugo Dietrich and I of Alaska left Glenallen on May 4 for the Logan Glacier with Jack Wilson’s Air Service. By the 5th we were at...