Women’s Overland Himalayan Expedition. On May 5, 1958 Mrs. A. A. Davies, Mrs. A. F. Deacock, and Mrs. Evelyn Sims left England to drive overland in a Land Rover to India. We arrived in Delhi six weeks later, June 16, exactly on schedule! We wished...
Two pitches up the classic route Birds of Fire, I looked 400' left to a series of inviting cracks and corners. One more route appeared on my ever-growing to-do list. When the RMNP guidebook and other founts of local knowledge came up short...
Shishcipangma, Ascent and Tragedy. Josu Bereziartua, Félix and Alberto Inurrategi arrived at BC together with the expedition from Alava formed by Luis Angel Rojo, Juan Vallejo, Juanito Oiarzabal and Jose Luis Zuloaga. On September 16 during an acc...
Pier Giorgio, West Face. Italians Renzo Vettori and Mario Manica made an attempt to climb the west face of Pier Giorgio in the southern summer of 1983-4. They returned in 1985 and on October 23 they got to the summit by this same face (5.10, A2). ...
Ojos del Salado Area, Various Ascents and Observations. From February to March, I was in northern Chile and Argentina in the area south of Ojos del Salado with a group of seven, all from Germany: Martin Blumenstock, Fritz Felber, Michael Fuchs, We...
FALLING ROCK–DISLODGEDColorado, Boulder Creek CanyonOn July 16, Emergency squads rescued a man who was pinned on the bank of Boulder Creek when a rock the size of a couch crushed his leg this morning. The man, identified as Boulder resident Dougla...
Various new routes. On October 4, from a base camp at Alcacocha Lake (4,600m), students of the Casa de Guias de Huaraz made five new routes on three mountains.On Nevado Qampa (5,500m; also named Jampa or Maria Huamantilla) Johan Zárate and Alberto...
FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED OUT California, Yosemite ValleyMike Brochu (31) and his partner, Mike Ewing, bivied at the base of the West Face of El Capitan the night of May 10, 1986. About 0110 on May 11, Brochu was leading the second pitch of ...
Washington State: (2) Olympics. On 20 July 1950 a group of boy scouts was descending Mt. Carey. Three of them got permission from the assistant leader to take a different route, along the side of a steep snow covered ridge. Peter Guimont, 16, lost...
Araca Group, Northern Quimsa Cruz. From June 16 to 27, our party of six climbed in the Araca group, a forest of granite towers of exceptional beauty that I had first visited in 1967. Gregory Johnson, Virginia Louise Porter and Scott Titteringham f...
North Tower of Rengo, Séptimo Arte. In February 2005 Francisco Rojas, Dario Arancibia, and I opened a new route, using capsule style, on the North Tower of Rengo, an almost unknown granite peak located in the central Andes of Chile. It is the bigg...
Mount Owen, First Ski Descent. One more of the major Teton summits has been descended on skis, this time Mount Owen by Bill Briggs and Rob McClure on June 21. Putting on skis on the east ridge about 150 feet below the summit, they descended to the...
Chip, Canyonlands. In October, Jeff Widen and Jeff Singer climbed Chip, which rises 240 feet, one of a pair of previously unattempted towers on the White Rim near Moab. Their route, Stuffin Nuts (III, 5,9, A2) takes a prominent line on the south f...
Blockhouse, West Face. This short but impressive face was first climbed on July 8 by Al Read and Sterling Neale. After traversing right on easy rock nearly to the edge of the south face, they climbed up and slightly left for 80 feet to a ledge fro...
STRANDED, SOLO ICE CLIMBINGAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Cascade MountainIn December, 1990, a climber went to solo the Cascade waterfall when his partner decided not to go with him; temperatures were around -25C. He took a rope along, but his partner ...
Peaks Above the Biafo Glacier. Matthew Powell, Robert Rider and I of Cambridge University and Bruce Hubbard from St. Andrews University spent 3½ weeks climbing peaks above the Biafo Glacier in July and August. We made three first ascents and carri...
Cho Oyu. A Korean expedition led by Park Sang-Yeol crossed to the west ridge and west face of Cho Oyu from the south. On September 2, Hong Kyung-Pyo, Lee Dong-Yeon and Wangel Sherpa reached the summit.Elizabeth Hawley
Huila, Tolima and Cocuy peaks. “Andes-75,” a Polish expedition from Gdansk composed of seven speleologists and climbers led by Walenty Fiut, explored the main caves of central Colombia and also did some mountaineering in the Cordillera Central and...
Expeditions to Pakistan in 2002. In 2001 around 70 expeditions came to the Karakoram. However, with the change in political climate following the events of September 11 and reprisals in neighboring Afghanistan, plus the subsequent threat of an Ind...
Annapurna Dakshin Attempt. New Zealander John Madgwick and a companion failed to climb Annapurna Dakshin by its south face. Their high point of 5500 meters was reached on March 28.Elizabeth Hawley