Fisher Towers, various ascents. Spaniards David Palmada and Esther Ollé established a route to which they gave the unprecedented rating of A6+ (the standard aid scale tops out at A5+). Their route, Look Out! Danger, took 13 days and climbs the nor...

Darban Zorn, Hindu Kush. An Austrian expedition traveled by Jeep over the Lowari Pass and through Chitral into the Mastuj valley. From there they went by pack train to Shagrom. Base Camp was at 15,000 feet by the Darban Glacier. Camp I was establi...

Grand Teton, Winter Ascents on North Face and North Ridge. In February, I skied in and climbed the chimney system on the North Face of the Grand Teton which ends between the Molar and the Second Tower. I did not go on further because of unstable s...

Mana Parbat. Mana Parbat (22,970 feet) in the Gangotri region was climbed by a nine-man team organized by the Mountaineers Club, Calcutta and led by Baidyanath N. Rakshit. On October 8 Amiya Mukherjee, Pranesh Chakravarty, and Sherpas Thundu and C...

Near Rollins Springs, Missouri. On 14 October 1948, 30 staff members of the Savitar, a University of Missouri student publication, were picnicking near Hinkson Creek. Richard K. Phelps, Jr. (20), attempted to climb a bluff near the creek. When a r...

Big Horn Mountains. The sharp needle 1? miles south 83° west of Blacktooth was climbed for the first time on June 20th, 1934, by Wm. F. Jenks and David Griggs by a route leading up the south face.

Antisana Norte. One of the finest peaks in Ecuador, Antisana Norte (c. 18,400 feet) was ascended for the first and only time on November 1972. Now, six climbers from Ambato placed a base camp near the Laguna (lake) del Volcán and a high one on the...

Grand Teton, North Face, Simpleton’s Pillar. June 16-17 Jeff Lowe made an important new variation on the north face of the Grand Teton on an early season solo climb. In general the route follows the first section of the standard north-face route, ...

Kunyang Chhish Attempt. During July and August Phil Bartlett, Dave Wilkinson and I made the first attempt on the north side of Kunyang Chhish (7852 meters, 25,760 feet) in the Hispar Mustagh. (It is also spelled Kunyang Kish.) In spite of indiffer...

Buch der Talschaft Lauterbrunnen, by Hans Michel. 503 pages, including bibliography, 64 photographic illustrations and six color plates from old prints. Interlaken: Verlag Otto Schlaefli. Price, 50 Swiss francs.An interesting recent development in...

Cololo, West Ridge, Cordillera Apolobamba. We approached the Cordillera Apolobamba by jeep via Nubi Pampa. From Base Camp at 15,000 feet, David Hick and I made a new route, the west ridge, on Cololo (Ccachuca; 5916 meters, 18,734 feet) on August 9...

FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, EXCEEDING ABILITIESCalifornia, Tuolumne Meadows, Lembert Dome, Northwest BooksOn July 15, Amit Singh (27) fell while climbing the third pitch (rated 5.9) of Northwest Books on Lembert Dome. He had placed a cam ...

Northern Monashees. Looking for solitude, virgin peaks and genuine wilderness, we decided to fly into the Pancake Peak area during the first week of August. The economics of helicopter transportation dictated a large group. Members of our conventi...

Colorado: Colorado National Monument. On 29 May 1949 Otto Schied, a German exchange student and high school senior, plunged 300 feet to his death. A companion, Kenneth Hesler, grabbed at Schied’s tumbling body and fell 30 feet himself, but escaped...

Foraker, Talkeetna Ridge; Hunter South Peak, Southwest Ridge. Jim Graham and I made an acclimatization climb of the southwest ridge of Mount Hunter in late April. This was helpful in that we were conditioned to heavy packs, ice climbing and cold t...

California, Mt. Whitney area. On 1 September David Slaton (17), Richard Bisson, David Smith and two adults, Jack Richer and Larry Stidam started up from Whitney Portals. Soon thereafter, Slaton showed signs of being affected by the altitude. Riche...

Koyo Zom, Hindu Raj, Second Ascent. The Tokyo Alpinist Club sent Shigeatsu Ogasawara, leader, Haruyoshi Yanagishita, Kenichi Takemori and Yasuo Sato to Kayo Zom, first climbed by Albert Stamm’s Austrian party in 1968. (See A.A.J., 1969, 16:2, pp. ...

Lobuje East. We reached our high camp of 17,000 feet on April 19. On the 20th I soloed P 5551 (18,212 feet), which lies a mile south of Lobuje East, for a better look at our chosen southeast-face route on Lobuje East. Bad weather forced us to rema...

Nevado Alpamayo, tragedies. Alpamayo (5,947m), once selected as the world’s most beautiful mountain, sees many ascents, but, in the last years, also many accidents. On July 21, 2003 an avalanche swept away a group 150m short of the summit ridge. E...

Gangapurna and Annapurna III Attempts. A six-man Korean team led by Kim Jung hoped to ascend Gangapuma’s north face, traverse Annapurna Ill’s northeast ridge and descend Annapurna III’s north ridge. Neither summit was reached and no traverse was m...