Kangchenjunga Ascent and Tragedy. An expedition of 6 Belorussians, 4 Russians and two Bulgarians was led by Belorussian Sergei Novikov. Russia’s best known woman climber, Yekaterina Ivanova, and the best known female alpinist of Bulgaria, Yordanka...

Jikji (6,235m). In July and August a Korean expedition made the possible first ascent of a 6,235m peak they called Jikji, above the South Charakusa Glacier. This peak is connected to Drifika (6,447m) by a long ridge extending to the south, and is ...

Annapurna Summer Attempt. A Japanese expedition of five led by Ichiro Hosoda attempted to climb Annapurna’s north face by the Dutch Rib but had to give up at 5840 meters on August 10 after two camps were destroyed by avalanches during the three we...

OVERDUE—MISSING, PROBABLY FALL ON ROCK/SNOW, CLIMBING ALONEOregon, Mount Hood, Cathedral RidgeKen Budlong (45), an experienced Portland climber, was reported overdue from a solo climb of Cathedral Ridge on Monday, September 26. On Sunday night he ...

Cashan Este, from the East. On July 12 Richard Soaper, Bob Wilson, Carolyn Griffin and I climbed Cashan Este (5723 meters, 18,777 feet) from the Quebrada Rurec. We were camped at 15,750 feet above a small glacier lake, east of Cashan Este. We foll...

Mt. Moroni, East Face, Plan B, Previously Unreported. Plan B (IV 5.10 C1, or 5.12b, 6 pitches, 8 bolts) is located on the southern end of Mt. Moroni and is distinguished by the massive roof in the right-facing corner halfway up the wall. This is a...

Shispare. On June 16, Yukiteru Masui, leader, Seiji Watanabe, Tsuyoshi Ozawa, Hitoshi Kokubu, Naoki Satoh and I started from Barut with two high-altitude porters and 70 local porters. On the 18th, we made Base Camp at 4100 meters at Youch on the n...

P 6225 and Sinclair Mountain, East of Lynn Canal. Dana van Burgh and I made the first ascent of P 6225, one of the highest peaks on the eastern side of Lynn Canal between Skagway and Haines, which we have called “Mordor.” It dominates the view nor...

Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Grand Teton. On August 14, Tom Spencer (27), Ben Peterson (26), Lawrence Swanson (24), and Bonnie Darger (21) had completed an ascent of the Grand Teton and were just leaving the Lower Saddle on the descent when...

Nar Parbat, Ascent. It was reported that Kalyan Banik and Susants Gayn from a 12-member Bengal expedition summited Nar Parbat (5885 m) on September 18. (High Mountain Sports 174)

LOOSE ROCKOntario, Bon Echo, Ottawa RouteOn July 21, I.G. was leading the third pitch of the “Ottawa Route” (5.8) at Bon Echo, which rises 100 meters straight up from Lake Mazinaw, when she called out to seconder C.G. that a large granite block ha...

Mountaineering Summary and Statistics, 1998. This year there were 42 expeditions comprising 163 people within the icefields of Kluane. This is a slight increase in numbers from last year. The maximum number of climbers in a single season was 186 p...

Mount Ogden, 1986. In late June 1986 Bruce Tickell and I climbed Mount Ogden (Boundary Peak 86; 2281 meters, 7484 feet). It lies about ten miles south of the Taku River. We landed on the lake in front of the Wright Glacier, and hiked south on the ...

Bonnie Prudden, 1914–2011Bonnie Prudden, fitness pioneer and founder of Bonnie Prudden Myotherapy, passed away at her home in Tucson on December 11, 2011. She was 97. “You can’t turn back the clock, but you can wind it up again,” she would tell he...

Dhaulagiri, South Face and Traverse. On September 23 Stane Belak, Cene Bercic, Emil Tratnik, Rok Kolar, Jože Zupan and Janez Sabolek reached Base Camp at 12,950 feet below the south face of Dhaulagiri. Despite bad weather, the lower part of the fa...

Squamish Chief, Bald Egos, New Route. In June, Conny Amelunxen and I braved rain, long falls, the unknown, and more rain in an attempt to put up the longest aid route on the Squamish Chief, Bald Egos (5.9 A4). We climbed the wall in impeccable Squ...

Stone Crusade: A Historical Guide to Bouldering in America. John Sherman with a foreword by John Gill. American Alpine Club, Golden, Colorado, 1994. 452 pages, black-and-white photos. Softcover $30.00, hardcover $40.00.Comment: A classic that esta...

French Exchange. Scott Frye and I arrived in Paris on May 18 to attend the International Climbers’ Meet, sponsored by the Fédération Française de Montagne. For the next twelve days we were to travel and climb throughout France with a group of 40 c...

Surprise Glacier peaks. On May 26 Steve Mock and I flew into the upper end of the southern lobe of the Surprise Glacier, a remote and lower-elevation area (Talkeetna C-5 quad map) in the southwest portion of the Alaska Range, located between Mt. D...

Women’s Overland Himalayan Expedition. On May 5, 1958 Mrs. A. A. Davies, Mrs. A. F. Deacock, and Mrs. Evelyn Sims left England to drive overland in a Land Rover to India. We arrived in Delhi six weeks later, June 16, exactly on schedule! We wished...