Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, New Mexico, Angel Peak Correction

Angel Peak Correction. In AAJ 1991, page 169, Angel Peak was incorrectly placed. It rises in northeastern New Mexico.


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Africa, Mali, Hombori Mountains, Various Ascents

Hombori Mountains, Various Ascents. It was reported that a number of climbs went up on or near Le Main de Fatima in the winter of 1997-’98. On the Grimari Dagana Massif, on December 13, B. Regien and C. Dumont d’Ayot put up Vendredi XII (6a, 250m)...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Langtang Ri

Langtang Ri. Only three expeditions have ever attempted Langtang Ri and all three have been Japanese and successful. All have climbed the same route, the southwest ridge. The recent expedition established three high camps. Yuzo Ichinose, Mitsuru Y...


Notes AAJ
The First Alpine Opera in America?

The First Alpine Opera in America? The New York Public Library contains a copy of the opera in three acts by William Dunlap (1766- 1839) entitled The Archers; or, Mountaineers of Switzerland, published in New York by T. & J. Swords in 1796 and...


Book Reviews AAJ
Chamonix Mont-Blanc 1900

Chamonix Mont-Blanc 1900. Gaston Rébuffat. Grands Vents, Genève, 1981. French text. 143 pages, 8½? × 11½?, black-and-white and color illustrations. Paper.Gaston Rébuffat has compiled a wonderful and evocative record of both a place and a time. Ins...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, Mount Hill, Northern Boundary Range

Mount Hill, Northern Boundary Range. On August 12, 1974, while working for the U.S. Geological Survey, I climbed this peak (Boundary Peak 78). I ascended the southeast ridge from the col between it and a smaller peak just across the Canadian borde...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Argentina and Chile, Central Patagonia, San Lorenzo, Nord Africana to Foresummit

San Lorenzo, Nord Africana to foresummit. From September 30 to October 1 Spanish climbers Jordi Corominas and Oriol Baró established Nord Africana (1,500m, ED-) on the previously unclimbed northeast face of Cerro San Lorenzo (3,706m), Argentina. T...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, New Mexico, Murallo Grande

FALL ON ROCKNew Mexico, Murallo GrandeOn September 1,1986, Albuquerque Mountain Rescue was notified by the field coordinator about 1430 of a “person who had fallen 300 meters” in the mountains. Expecting the worst, a strike team was dispatched to ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Europe, Italy, Aiguille Savoie (Second Ascent of the Southeast Ridge, Descent by the Southeast Face)

Aiguille Savoie (11,900 Feet)(Second ascent of the southeast ridge, descent by the southeast face)The first ascent of this ridge was made by Paul Preuss, solo, August 13, 1913, in four hours, from the Triolet hut.1On August 13th, 1931, our party r...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, China, Ascent of Bok'ra III and Attempt at Circuit of Siguniang

Ascent of Bok’ra III and Attempt at Circuit of Siguniang. On October 2, fifteen of us left Zelun in the Tibetan Autonomous Region of Sichuan Province and headed north into the beautiful Zhang Ping valley of the Siguniang Mountains. We were accompa...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Bolivia, Cordillera Quimsa Cruz, Araca Group, various ascents

Araca Group, various ascents. Mike Walker, Cameron Burns (Basalt Bigfoot Coalition), and I spent June 29–July 10 in the Mocoya and Teacota valleys of the northern Araca Group of the Quimsa Cruz. While there, we spent most of our time bivouacked un...


Book Reviews AAJ
Der Alpensteinbock

Der Alpensteinbock, by Carl Ausserer. 8vo., 243 pages, 11 facsimiles, 13 photographs, and 2 maps. Wien: Universum, 1947. Price, Sw. F. 7.70.Now in its second edition, this book presents the life-history of the ibex which, despite the conservation ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Tierra del Fuego, Monte Cloven, Hoste Island, 1989-90

Monte Cloven, Hoste Island, 1989-90. A four-man American-Canadian expedition, T.J. Thomas, Doug Krause, Steve Gayner and I, made the first exploration and ascents on the uninhabited and unexplored Hoste Island. The trip took place in December, 198...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, China, Anyemaqen I and IV

Anyemaqen I and IV. Canadians C. Hrkac, H. Smit, J. Herrero, B. White, M. Ledwidge, B. Helgason, P. Holbek and I successfully completed an eight- week cultural and climbing visit to the People’s Republic of China. After visiting the Chengdu Colleg...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Argentina, Southern Patagonia, Hielo Continental, Cerro Murallón, Attempt

Cerro Murallón, attempt. The following has been condensed from a press release provided by Glowacz’s publicist in response to our request for information:“Gone with the Wind” Part 1, featuring Stefan Glowacz and Robert Jasper. Top of the Murallón ...


Club Activities AAJ
Chicago Mountaineering Club

Chicago Mountaineering Club. Harry Lumby of our club, who is an accredited first-aid instructor, held classes in the early spring of 1955 for a small group of C.M.C. Mountaineers, teaching them the wonders of bruises, bandages, and broken bones. T...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Peru—Cordillera Blanca, Huascarán

Huascarán. On July 31 Andreas Brückner, Caspar Vogel, Mark Ebneter and I reached the summit of Huascarán Sur. Since last year, the route to the Garganta goes over a ramp directly below the south peak, climbing a steep ice wall to the right of rock...


Accident Reports ANAM
Washington—Del Campo Mountain

Washington—Del Campo Mountain: A church group of young men, led by a very competent mountaineer, Kieth Rabkin of Seattle, were on a practice trip on Del Campo Mountain on May 31, 1952. During a glissade practice Morris Ensey (20) failed to maneuve...


Accident Reports ANAM
Stranded, Dropped Rope, California, Yosemite Valley

STRANDED, DROPPED ROPECalifornia, Yosemite ValleyOn October 15, after completing a single pitch 5.7 route in the Church Bowl area called Uncle Fannie Hoffman, Matthew (19) lowered his partner to the ground from a ledge and accidentally dropped his...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Mt. Morrison, Don-Julie California, Sierra Nevada

In the summer of 1994 I climbed the Hobbs/Slate route on the north buttress of Mount Morrison with Don Lamson. From this route it is possible to view the central pillar, which appeared to have more compact rock than the choss we were climbing. A w...

| Published 1995 | Author Paul Teare