Connecticut, West Rock—On June 1 Leo Arsenault (16), Peter Davis (18), Edw. Goderre (16) and Marvin Moore (15) went to West Rock near New Haven, Conn. Davis remained at the foot of the Rock to direct and advise. Arsenault and the other two descend...
FALL, SKI-MOUNTAINEERING—Alaska, Mt. McKinley. While skiing down the Kahiltna Glacier after a carry to the 10,000 foot level, Tokehiro Miyano (32), of the Kofu Nannei Alpine Club, hit a bump and somersaulted while falling. He fractured his left le...
Pisco. The Frenchmen C. Viennot and Mlle H. Lecumberri with the Peruvian Felipe Mautino climbed Pisco by the normal route on August 18. Also Serpinet climbed this peak with Donato SolanoCésar Morales Arnao, Club Andino Peruano
Kashkar, first ascent and traverse. In July a team from Moscow made the first ascent of 6,435m Kashkar (aka Koshkar or Kochkar Bashi), an isolated massif lying in the rarely visited Chinese Tien Shan ca 20km due south of Pobeda. The peak is though...
Canwell Glacier, Alaska Range. During the late spring and through the summer of 1968 members of the Alaska Alpine Club assisted by many others carried in and built the second of a series of huts planned in the Delta Mountains of the eastern Alaska...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE BELAY-LOWERINGAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Heart Creek, Kananaskis CountryOn July 18, M. P. was climbing at the Heart Creek sport climbing area when he was lowered off the end of his rope by his belayer, resulting in a six-me...
Bhagirathi IV Attempt. It was reported that Steve Quinlan went to attempt the unclimbed west face of Bhagirathi IV, but problems with his liaison officer forced his team to descend from low on the attempt. (The Mountain Yodel 5)
Kearsarge Pinnacle No. 6, West Face. On July 4, Liesl Day and I climbed what we believe to be a first ascent of the west face of Kearsarge Pinnacle No. 6. From the notch between Pinnacle No. 6 and No. 7 traverse east into a gully and climb over an...
Huascarán Norte, Northeast Face and Ridge. During the end of July and the first days of August Steve Brewer and I made the second ascent of the French route of 1972 on the northeast face and ridge of Huascarán Norte. There was considerable evidenc...
Nanda Devi, Second Ascent. American climbers will be particularly interested in the second ascent of Nanda Devi (25,645 feet), since it was first climbed in 1936 by a joint British and American expedition. They will also be happy to note that one ...
Mount Shnksan, Direct West Face. On Saturday, August 26, Don Keller, Mike Forney, Erich Zahn and I found ourselves at Lake Ann surrounded by a large party getting ready for the summit climb the next day. We had come with the idea of climbing from ...
During July, John Ebert and I led a large group to the Quebrada Honda. Chaco (17,454 feet) was climbed by 42 of the 55 participants between July 13 and 24. A determined attempt on Chinchey failed. Dean Smith and Bob Wilson climbed Tocllaraju (19,7...
The ascent of Tolima, 18,400 ft., in Colombia, was made on Dec. 10, 1926, by Hans Huber, of Bogatá, accompanied by two German and three Colombian friends. (Andina, Vol. VIII, No. 5, p. 122.) They reported no trace of the first ascent of Jan. 18, 1...
Pingora, West Face. On July 21 Fred Beckey, Court Richards and I left camp at Lonesome Lake for the west face of Pingora. Just before reaching Cirque Lake, we turned north and ascended to the col between Tiger and Pingora. From here we climbed up ...
Incredible Hulk, Doodad, Mt. Bandaloo (Pt 10,002'). Between August 2 and August 22 I traversed the Sierra Nevada from Twin Meadows to Hetch Hetchy, via Matterhorn Canyon and the Grand Canyon of the Tuolumne River, with members of the dance troupe ...
FALLING ICE, NO HARD HAT, CLIMBING ALONEVermont, Smuggler’s NotchOn December 30, a man (41) was five or six feet off the ground on a climb when he was struck by a piece of falling ice three feet in diameter. He was knocked off his ice route and fe...
Makalu, New Route on Northeast Face. The Japanese Alpine Club, whose $30,000 peak fee was sponsored by a prominent Japanese newspaper, sent 11 climbers accompanied by 12 Sherpas to attempt the northeast ridge from its beginning. They had estimated...
Attempt on Siulá Chico, Cordillera Huayhuash. Our Argentine-Austrian expedition hoped to make the first ascent of Siulá Chico (20,555 feet). We were Luis Vigl and Fridelin Purtscheller, Austrians; lanes Ahncin, Yugoslav; Benjamin Dixon, my wife Ja...
St. Elias, East Ridge. In November 1983 sailing-yacht Northanger left England, bound for Alaska via the Panama Canal. On May 23 Rick Thomas, John Jewell, Nigel Young and I left her at anchor in Icy Bay and set off to backpack, ski and manhaul eigh...
Mt. McKinley from Seattle. Erden Eruç bicycled from Seattle to Talkeetna, then walked, with friends, 67 miles into the Southeast Fork Kahiltna Glacier base camp, and climbed the West Buttress to the summit with two others. Due to time constraints ...