FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED OUT, INEXPERIENCEAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Cascade MountainIn July, 1990, a climber (19) fell while leading on cliffs just left of the Cascade waterfall. His first protection, a Friend, pulled out. The next one, a c...
Latok II Attempt. Because of very bad snow conditions when, seven days after leaving Dassu, Paul de Mengel, Dr. John Hancock, Brian Mullen and I as leader reached the Uzzam Brakk Glacier, the porters were unable to reach our intended Base Camp. We...
Cho Oyu Attempts. Seven Swiss climbers led by Karl Kobler failed to climb Cho Oyu. They got to 6200 meters on the southwest ridge on April 28. Seven Koreans led by Chi Yoon-Soo reached 6600 meters on the same ridge on May 9 but could not complete ...
Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta Western peaks. Ours was the third University of Vermont climbing and spider-collecting expedition to this range. Since Arhuaco Indians had apparently sealed off the sierra to all outsiders, we chose this time the weste...
Change in peak and trekking fees. It is with great relief and pleasure that I announce the formal acceptance by the government of our longstanding demand to waive mountain royalties on all peaks up to 6,500m. Thus anything below 6,500m will be con...
Varah Shikhar (Fang) Winter Attempt. South Koreans led by Yu Jae-Hyoung tried to climb the east face to the southeast ridge of Varah Shikhar, also called the Fang (7647 meters, 25,089 feet). They got to 6350 meters on January 1, 1992.Elizabeth Hawley
A.A.C., Alaska Section. This was a most rewarding, productive year for the Section. Many members worked closely together to insure the success of several activities, which were highlighted by the first formal climbing exchange between an A.A.C. se...
Pakistan, peak fees. We are pleased to inform all clients, friends, the mountaineering community and adventure enthusiasts, particularly climbers, that the Government of Pakistan has decided to continue with the 50% concession in Royalty fee durin...
CALEB FRANK GATES, JR.1904-1955Caleb Gates was born in Istanbul, where his father was president of Robert College. He attended Princeto n and Balliol College, Oxford, and in 1927-1928 was president of the Oxford University Mountaineering Club. He ...
Mount Everest, French Tragedy. On September 9 at 7:30 P.M. an avalanche swept over and destroyed Camps I and II, killing the expedition leader, Gerard Devouassoux and five Sherpas. The expedition was abandoned after the accident. Base Camp had bee...
Kangchungtse (Makalu II) Attempts. Two French expeditions failed in their attempts to climb Kangchungtse by its south ridge. A party of five led by François Lévêque got to 7400 meters on October 9, while four other Frenchmen led by Pierre Thèvenar...
FALLING ROCK, POOR CONDITIONS – LATE IN SEASONOregon, Mount Hood, Sandy Glacier HeadwallOn June 28 Chris Haskins (27) and his partner were ascending the Sandy Glacier Headwall route on Mount Hood when Haskins was struck by a falling rock and suffe...
Hot Tuna Tower, Open-Book Route. This tower is located on the east side of Wheeler Crest and is visible from U.S. 395 at the beginning of Sherwin Grade, north of Bishop, California. It is the largest tower in a pink band of granite that intrudes t...
Everest Attempt, Northeast Ridge. Though a large British team in 1988 succeeded in climbing through the Pinnacles, the major crux on the ridge, they did not continue on to the summit. Although the ridge between the Pinnacles and the summit has bee...
Urdok I and Hidden Peak. The Austrian Karakoram Expedition was made up of the German Dr. Karl Hub and Austrians Dr. Helmut Preve- del, Herbert Zefferer, Robert Schauer, my wife Leselotte and me as leader. Though we had originally headed for Baltor...
Various Himalayan Climbs. Dr. Herbert Tichy spent over half a year in 1959 in the Himalaya, where he climbed no less than seven unnamed peaks that averaged 23,000 feet. He visited the Japanese in their camp in the Langtang Himal in Nepal. He was f...
Rooster Comb, Southwest Face of South Peak. On July 13 and 14 Dave Holsworth and I climbed the southwest face of the south peak of the Rooster Comb. We used the southern approach to Huntington, described in the 1972 south-ridge attempt (A.A.J., 19...
YearTotal Number of Reported AccidentsNumber of Deaths1947 15111948 28151949 1791950 3081951 1841952 35141953 25121954 3181955 3461956 408
Wells Peak, lower half of East Face, December’s Children. This route on Wells Peak, in the Wheeler Crest area, was climbed in December by James Wilson and me. It follows the only crack system just right of the center of the face. The fourth pitch ...
Shiva Shankar West, west face. The Pangi straddles the Himachal Pradesh–Jammu and Kashmir borders and is isolated for more than seven months of the year. The road into the area crosses 4,000m passes and is a difficult and adventurous journey even ...