Lobuje West. Yuji Kamakura, Yoshihiro Taguchi, Mrs. Akiko Kanazawa, Miss Keiko Nishihira, Dr. Ken Kanazawa and I settled Base Camp on September 16 on the Lobuje Glacier at 5000 meters. Within a week we made a route in the labyrinth of a huge icefa...
La Esfinge, Welcome to the Slabs of Koricancha. On June 18, Slovaks Dusan Beranek, Rado Staruch, and I reached the top of La Esfinge (5,325m), having climbed a new route, Welcome to the Slabs of Koricancha (650m, 13 pitches, V 5.13b), via the larg...
Annapurna IV. A 24-person Nepalese Police expedition led by Mrs. Basundhara Lama climbed Annapurna IV by its normal route, the northwest ridge. The climbing leader was Inspector Gupta Bahadur Rana. Much of the route- making had been done by the mu...
East Ridge of West Horn, June 24, 1953. Fred Ayres and A. E. Creswell made this first ascent. Ayres also made the first and second ascents of this peak by the west ridge. This fine new route was a third ascent.
Kumbhakarna East, East Face Attempts. Vanja Furlan and I again attempted to climb the east face of Kumbhakarna East (7468 meters, 24,502 feet), which we had tried in 1991. (AAJ, 1992, page 4.) After an approach march of ten days, we got to Base Ca...
Saser Kangri. Saser Kangri, 25,170 feet, lies on the eastern end of the Karakoram, north of Leh. This was unsuccessfully attempted by an expedition early in the summer of 1956. The group from the Himalayan Mountaineering Institute was under the le...
H. G. Watkins, the young explorer, whose excellent work in Labrador and Greenland has been an inspiration to others in the scientific and geographic exploration of these regions met a tragic death by drowning on the east coast of Greenland while o...
Gonga Shan Attempt. An Italian expedition led by Evanio Marchesani failed to climb Gonga Shan. Details are lacking.
Lupgar Sar Tragedy. A six-man South Korean expedition to Lupgar Sar was led by Kim Ho-Young. They lost two of their members, Jung Su-Ken and Kim Young- Jae, who were swept away by an avalanche at Camp III on July 26.
P 12.380. Harrison Hilbert and I made our first try to climb P 12,380 by its west spur on June 8. We climbed simultaneously except for three belayed pitches on the lower spur. That afternoon we bivouacked in a storm in a crevasse at 11,000 feet wi...
Tharpu Chuli (Tent Peak) Ascent and Tragedy. Japanese Kentaro Yamao and partner climbed Tharpu Chuli (5663 meters, 18,580 feet) on May 2, but on the descent, when they had reached 4700 meters, the former fell to his death.Tsunemichi Ikeda, Editor,...
The Grand Controversy. Orrin and Lorraine Bonney. The AAC Press, New York, 1992. 457 pages. $28.50.This book is a pleasant surprise. One might expect 457 pages of elaborately documented research into a minor historical issue to be dull, to say the...
In March Steven Fortune, Mike Rowe, and I arrived in the Solu Khumbu and established base camp at 5,050m, below our first objective, the northeast face of Kyajo Ri. Initially we attempted the standard route up the southwest ridge, starting from a ...
California, Tahquitz Rock—On May 30, a fatal accident occurred at Tahquitz Rock. There were two groups of moderately experienced climbers. Neither was affiliated with the Sierra Club. At the time of the accident one party of two was climbing on t...
FALL ON SNOW, CLIMBING UNROPED, PLACED NO PROTECTIONColorado, Mt. YpsilonAccording to Tom Cunningham (23), Lawrence Berman (21) had gotten a technical climbing permit for the Blitzen Ridge on Mt. Ypsilon. They were to bivouac on the route on the n...
HANDHOLD CAME LOOSE, FALL ON ROCKColorado, Capitol PeakOn August 17, while approaching the summit of 14,130 foot Capitol Peak along the Knife Edge (the standard route), a 36-year old male mountaineer from Denver fell an estimated 1,000 feet down t...
No fatalities post monsoon. In the autumn of 1967, when only two expeditions attempted Nepalese Himalayan peaks over 6,600m, there were no climbers’ deaths. Every autumn since then there have been deaths—until 2007, when none of the 183 teams suff...
Burgundy Spire, Action Potential with variants, and Ultramega OK. On July 19, after an evening bacchanal at the Winthrop Pub, Mike Layton’s and my approach time to the base of Burgundy had doubled to six hours. At the spire we beheld the impressiv...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTIONNew York, ShawangunksA male climber (19) was belaying his second. The second fell, pulling the belayer off a ledge. The belayer was not clipped in properly. (Source: Brad Snyder)
Bonanza Peak, Northwest Ridge. Tim Haider and I climbed Washington’s highest non-volcanic peak (9,511') via a new route (V 5.8), following a traverse from the northwest. On August 19 we left the Agnes Creek trail at Swamp Creek and climbed Needle ...