Climbing and Skiing in the Waddington AreaFred BeckeyA LONG cherished desire to climb in the B. C. Coast Range was realized when on July 1st, 1942, Helmy Beckey (my brother) and I1 of the Seattle Mountaineers began backpacking up the Franklin Rive...
The online version of these reports frequently contains additional photos, maps, topos, and extended text. Please visit aaj.americanalpineclub.orgAll ascents reported took place in the 2010–11 season, unless otherwise stated. In the summaries, Dam...
OVERDUE CLIMBERS, SUBTERFUGE California, Yosemite ValleyOn June 25, 1988, Mike Orland contacted Ranger Mike Mayer to report that two of his friends, Dave Bridges (19) and Darryl Macias (25), were overdue from the Southwest Face of Washington Colum...
Dhaulagiri’s East FaceNick Estcourt Memorial ExpeditionAlex MacIntyre, British Mountaineering CouncilIn THE FIRST WEEK of November of 1979 Wojciech Kurtyka, a member of the Polish expedition to the north side of Dhaulagiri, struggled through waist...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE CLOTHINGNorth Carolina, Shortoff Mountain, Little CornerOn Saturday March 17, M. McNeely (age unknown) and her husband David, both experienced climbers, were attempting Little Corner (5.6) a rock climb located on Shortoff ...
Die Schweiz im Spiegel englishcher Literatur 1849-75, by Hans Lohrer. 147 pages, with bibliography and index. Zürich: Juris- Verlag, 1952.The British visitors to Switzerland before 1850 were primarily interested in scenic grandeur, and this is ref...
Climbs above the Quebrada Ulta, Cordillera Blanca. On June 28 the Californians, Henry W. Kendall, Carl Heller, Ernst Bauer, John Lomart and Dave Brown, were joined in Carhuás by their Peruvian porters, Macario Angeles, Octaviano Zuñiger and Pablo ...
THE WOUNDED, BUT surviving, tiny taxi entered the Koritko driveway in Rawalpindi close to midnight. Kim Schmitz, a tall, lean mountain guide from Lake Tahoe and I had hardly extricated ourselves before Andy, our host, slammed a cold Heineken i...
Akshirak and Pamir Alai Ranges, Various Ascents. In July, Chris Seashore, Carol Petrelli, Blase Reardon and I went to the Akshirak Range in eastern Kyrgyzstan for ski mountaineering. The range is a day’s drive (by old slow Russian army truck) due ...
Mitsinjoarivo, east face. In September Sandro Borini, Paolo Stoppini, Daniele Zinetti, and I put up a new route on the east face of Mitsinjoarivo. It proved to be a magnificent route with varied climbing. We equipped all eight pitches with 8mm sta...
The Mountaineers. Climbing activity in Washington continued to increase during 1957. This fact stressed the importance of educational and safety programs of The Mountaineers. More than 400 took the climbing courses in Seattle, Tacoma, and Everett....
Arizona, Humphrey’s Peak. Personnel: Doug Rickard, leader (age 20), moderately experienced; Allison Clay (17), inexperienced; Rick Hufnagel (19), inexperienced; Cindy Johnson (17), inexperienced; Clint Miller (24), inexperienced; Mason Skiff (17),...
The Southeast Spur of Mount McKinleyBOYD N. EVERETT, JR. THE SOUTHEAST SPUR of Mount McKinley1 is a ridge five miles long rising out of the Ruth Glacier. From its base to the summit of McKinley is eight miles. The route is unusual for those climbe...
STRANDED, EXCEEDING ABILITIES, LOST, DAMAGED AND INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT Yukon Territory, Mount LoganAt 1530 on May 21, 1992, the Kluane National Park Warden Service received word from a local pilot that a group of four Italian climbers on the Hummin...
Cho Oyu and Shishapangma, Ascents. In August, I traveled to Tibet with three other friends from Telluride, Colorado: Andrew Sawyer, Laura Bakos and Jim Miller. Our intention was to acclimate on Cho Oyu, then climb the south face of Shishapangma. A...
On June 10, Brian Young (52) went into sudden cardiac arrest in his tent at high camp after having climbed to the summit of Denali earlier that day. The team that he was climbing with reported that during their summit climb, he suffered from al...
Tahu Rutum, west face, solo attempt. Mothers have it the hardest. “I’m going climbing in Pakistan by myself. I’ll be home in three or four months,” I told mine. It’s an easy thing to say when you’re 25, curious about the world, and fired up to cli...
Northwest Face of Forbidden Peak. The northwest face of Forbidden Peak, one of the most attractive in the Cascade Pass area and the longest on this popular alpine peak, has interested many climbers in the past few years. Other parties had attempte...
Mountaineering in Greenland Erik Hoff, Dansk Bjergklub (A supplement to articles on the same subject published in Journal, Swiss Foundation for Alpine Research, Vol. IV, No. 11, 1962, in Berge der Welt 1966-7 and in Mountain World 1966-7.) TH...
It is heretical, perhaps, to begin a tale of pure mountain exploration from inside the industrial confines of a sandblasting helmet, the hideous din of compressed air carrying its own desert storm against a boat’s hull, against the process that th...